The Heart of Cahors : the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, France

Inside the cloisters of Cahors Cathedral, France

Inside the Cloisters
Started in the 11th century, the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors was recognised as a French National Monument in 1862. In 1998, it was heritage-listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

The charming medieval town of Cahors in the Occitan Region of Southern France was full of delightful surprises.

The centrepiece of the town is the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral, a refuge on the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage, and – along with the Valentré Bridge (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) – a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Catholicism is the predominant religion in France, with between 47% and 88% of the population estimated to be Catholic – practicing or lapsed. The French Catholic Church was established in the 2nd century, and because of its continuous communion with the bishop of Rome, it was sometimes called the fille aînée de l’Église – the eldest daughter of the church. Clovis I was the first Frankish king to be baptized a Christian in 496 (or 508 – depending on who you read!) and the kings after him were all called the “eldest sons of the Church”.

While the broader relationship between church and state has often been less than smooth, for many centuries the parish church has been the center of village life in France. The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors truly was central to Cahors; it is now in the middle of the medieval quarter, and I passed it repeatedly on my various walks.

Architecturally, Cahors Cathedral is considered a fine example of the transition between the late Romanesque and Gothic traditions. It was consecrated in 1135, having been built on the site of an earlier 7th century church. I’ve forgotten much of what I learned about religious architecture back in my art-history classes at school, and was just happy to wander around, escaping the autumn rain and admiring the graceful lines. On my second visit, I was lucky enough to be treated to an organ recital!

Come for a visit:

Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
The cathedral is a commanding presence in the narrow streets of the old historic quarter.

Madonna
The statuary decorating the building is quite beautiful.

The Apse of Cahors Cathedral from the Outside

In the Cloisters
The cloister was rebuilt towards the end of the 15th century, reflecting the ornate Gothic style of the day.

Looking Out
The symmetrical garden in cloistre gives a feeling of calm.

Rain in the Cloisters
The light was completely different the next day when I returned to escape the rain.

Bell Tower Rising
The cathedral has a sturdy, fortified appearance. When it was build, the local bishops were also feudal lords, and probably sought some measure of protection.

Rain Falling

A Dome and the Tower
The two Byzantine-style blue-slate covered domes in the cathedral are 32 meters (105 feet) high. From the medieval period, only those of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople stand taller. (iPhone15Pro)

Reflections in the Coloured Windows

Organ
The Cahors organ was built between 1712-1714 and rebuilt in 1863. From inside the nave, the sound was glorious!

Traditional Stained Glass
The classic stained glass windows are quite stunning: this one shows Saint Lawrence, Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Génulphus.

Modern Stained Glass : The Parables of St Mark’s Gospel
Contemporary windows were commissioned by the city, and installed in 2013 by artist Gérard Collin-Thiébaut and the master glazier Pierre-Alain Parot. Each window is composed from layers of pictures: old and newer ones, symbolising how art and faith are passed down and reinterpreted through the generations. The central panel here depicts the parable of the sower and the calming of the tempest.

Madonna and Child
In the Chapel of the Virgin, a colourful statue stands over the tomb of Alain de Solminihac, Bishop of Cahors from 1636 until his death in 1659.

L’Ange du Lazaret in the Rain
Back outside in the rain, a more modern monumental bronze sculpture – the Angel of Lazaret by Marc Petit – is a sorrowful guardian of those people with infectious diseases who are sequestered away from the mainstream.