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Houseboat in the Wetlands
Like a dream, a houseboat – and its reflection – glide through the backwaters around Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India.
I’ve said it before: being on and around the waters of Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India had a soporific effect on me (see: On the Kerala Backwaters). The heat – and the haze that the heat produced on the water – and soft chugging of the motors of the river traffic had me feeling like I was in a dream. Tropical plants adorned the gardens either side of the waterways, and birds were everywhere. Brightly dressed local residents went about their daily lives in small boats and on walkways at the water’s edge.
I knew this region from other people’s photographs, and was finally getting to visit for myself!
I was travelling with a small group, so all the details were looked after for me. We had spent the night in the beautiful CGH Earth Coconut Lagoon resort in Kottayam district on Vembanad Lake. This area is home to a huge variety of bird life which takes sanctuary in the protected neighbouring wetlands.
The resort offered a guided pre-dawn nature walk, so I set my alarm and got up early to join in. As we walked around the grounds and onto the neighbouring sanctuary, a huge array of birds and plants were pointed out to us. Unfortunately, my telephoto lens is by no means bird-worthy, especially in the low light of morning – but I made several attempts to capture some of the species we spotted.
Mid-morning, our group transferred from the resort to kettuvallam – traditional Kerala houseboats – that were to be our homes for the afternoon and overnight. We cruised slowly through the rivers and canals off Vembanad Lake, taking in the colourful life on the banks of the Pamba River before parking at a mooring as the sun went down.
Join me on the waterways of Kerala.
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Indian Crow – Corvus Splendens
So ubiquitous around India that the locals call this a house crow or common crow, these greynecked crows struck me as remarkably uncommon! The variants I was used to seeing in North America, Australia – and even Thailand – were pure glossy black.
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Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans
January is dry season in Kerala, but there is still a lot of water in the landscaped trenches around the resort – making a good spot for a small stork to search for food. The sun hasn’t risen high enough to penetrate the haze and murk of the morning.
Red Water Lily – Nymphaea Rubra
The lilies are just opening up to the new day.
Houseboat in the Morning
In the low light of morning, Kerala’s famous houseboats are already on the move.
A Stream of Asian Openbills
I love the different formations that the birds make overhead in the hazy morning sky.
Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans
I manage to pull one in on the zoom; the open beak of this distinctive small stork is just visible.
Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii
Often called a ‘paddybird‘, this small heron is found everywhere in South Asian rice fields.
Purple-Rumped Sunbird – Leptocoma Zeylonica
High overhead, we spot a sunbird – probably a male – in the trees.
Powder-Puff Tree – Barringtonia Racemosa
The flowers in the resort gardens are much easier to catch!
Kingfisher on a Pole
The poles in the floating mass of water hyacinth provide a great perch for birds on the lookout for food.
Two Men in a Boat
There is a steady stream of boat traffic on the water. I love how the background fades into the heat-haze.
Full Boat
Some of the beasts seem dangerously overloaded!
Cattle Egret – Ardea Ibis
I love watching these birds in flight.
Like a Minimalist Painting
Viewing Platforms
There are a few hides in the wetlands for serious bird watchers.
Cannonball Tree – Couroupita Guianensis
I love these unique flowers. But, I keep watch for any over-hanging fruit: they are called ‘cannonball’ for a reason!
Life on the Water’s Edge
Later in the day, we boarded our small houseboats, and set off through the Alleppey Backwaters.
Houseboats on the Pamba River
These popular waterways are a labyrinthine network of interconnected canals, rivers, lakes, and inlets, stretching over 900 kilometers.
Pedestrian Bridge
The waterways are bustling with movement and crowded with buildings.
Couple on the Bridge
Houseboats and Transport Boats
Women Walking on the Edge
Everywhere we look, there is colour and activity.
Women Working
The waterways are the centre of daily life.
Doing Laundry
Colourful Tourist Boats
Tourism is a major contributor to Kerala’s income.
Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus) – I Think?
The sky is alive with raptors.
Houseboat at Rest
As the day draws to a close, the the houseboats pull into their allocated berths for the night.
Boatman
The boatmen make sure the vessels are securely tied up …
Sundown on the Houseboats
… and the waterways go quiet.
We ate our wonderful South Indian meal on our houseboat as the sun went down over the Kerala Backwaters and then spent the night in air-conditioned comfort.
It truly was a dream come true!
Until next time …
Pictures: 29January2023
