An Evening on Paros: Lefkes and Naoussa, Greece

Narrow street of stone pavers lined by worn buildings, Lefkes Paros Greece.

A Winding Street in Lefkes
Even when the autumn evening light is fading; even where the paint and wash are peeling, Paros in the Greek Cyclades is a joy.

I loved Greece!

Each day seemed better than the last.

A trip to the Greek Cyclades had been on my wish-list forever. I finally managed to get there as tourist destinations were welcoming travellers back after long months of Covid-19 restrictions. With a small group organised by Intrepid, I had arrived on Paros by ferry one warm autumn day and had spent the early afternoon exploring the island’s main town of Parikia (see: A Slice of Paradise). It was already after 5PM when we all set off in a minibus to have a look at the rest of the island.

But, even in September, the days are long over the Aegean Sea: we were bestowed with beautiful weather and nice light as we drove to the centre of the island to the mountain village of Lefkes, and then north to the harbourside fishing village of Naoussa (Naousa).

Both villages date back to medieval times and are best explored on foot.

The tiny village of Lefkes (population: 611) is quintessentially Cycladic, with narrow laneways of whitewashed buildings trimmed in blue. Once the capital of the island, many of the old and somewhat dilapidated buildings seem deserted – but even they are picturesque and framed by colourful splashes of bougainvillea.

Naoussa is a beautiful fishing village sitting on a large bay in the northern part of the island. The remains of a late 13th century Venetian castle in the port attest to the town’s long history. Naoussa is larger (population: 3,134) and more upmarket than Lefkes: the waters are crowded with colorful wooden boats and the foreshore is packed with tables belonging to the restaurants and bars fronting the harbour. Its charming winding streets and alleyways are dotted with tiny shops, bars, and restaurants. After dark, the nightclubs cater to the party crowd.

Come explore:

Low afternoon sun through an ancient olive tree, Lefkes Paros Greece.

Ancient Olive Tree
We stopped briefly in the Anelipsi area, outside Lefkes, to admire an ancient olive tree. I don’t know how old it is – there is one on Crete estimated to be to be 4,000 years old – but it is certainly battle-scarred. (iPhone12Pro)

Looking over Church of Agia Triada, Lefkes Paros Greece.

Church of Agia Triada
We also have views over the main church of Lefkes: the unique Greek Orthodox Church of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity), built from marble between 1830 and 1835.

Lefkiano Restaurant Courtyard
Lefkes is an archetypal Cycladic village boasting small squares, narrow and twisting stone laneways, traditional whitewashed buildings, and plenty of contrasting blue trim.

Duranta Erecta
Flowering plants and shrubs are everywhere.

Another Square
Streets wander of in all directions and every square invites you to shop or sit for a wine or coffee.

Local in a Laneway

Ruins
Even the tumbled-down abandoned buildings have charm!

Cats on the Stairs
There are cats everywhere in Greece – and they all look well cared for.

Paved Laneway
The historic Church of Agia Triada commands attention in the small town. (iPhone12Pro)

Young Women in the Square

Church of Agia Triada
The impressive Byzantine basilica has been listed as a monument of special significance by the Greek Ministry of Culture. Much of the main building is made from the locally-sourced precious Parian marble, known for its fine-grained semi-transparent luminescence.

Belltower
The elegant bell towers stand out against the Aegean sky.

Orthodox Church in the Countryside
From the hillside, there are views back down over village churches …

Windmill on the Hill
… and up over the stone fences to a traditional whitewashed windmill.

Paved Street
Even in the evening shadows, the bougainvillea brightens the narrow streets.

Scenes From A Bus : Rocky Walls along the Byzantine Road
Back in the bus and heading north, we were able to see the ancient road that links the towns of Lefkes and Prodromos. Dating to 1000 CE, the road, which is paved with marble, is now a popular hiking trail. (iPhone12Pro)

Sunset on the Harbour
We arrived in Naoussa just in time to watch the sun drop over the harbour.

Naoussa Town Square
The falling light doesn’t slow the activity in the streets. (iPhone12Pro)

The Venetian Fort
In the old fishing harbour, tourists clamber over the remains of a 15th century Venetian fortress.

Agios Faneromeni (Panagía) Orthodox Church
Warm light bathes all the white buildings that line the waterfront.

Greek Orthodox Chapel of Agios Nikolaos
This small church right on the harbor serves sailors in what is still a traditional fishing village. The courtyard is full of early diners from a nearby restaurant.