Postcards from Athens, Greece

Three Greek Presidential Guards marching, Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

The Changing of the Greek Guard
Every Sunday, at 11am, there is a formal changing of the guard in Syntagma Square, Athens. The traditionally dressed Evzones, or Presidential Guards, are a ceremonial infantry unit that guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Mansion.

Having spent most of my life in what the West calls the “New World” or the “Colonies”, I haven’t had a lot of access to the great cities of Europe. So, when the opportunity arises to visit one of those historical cities, I am thrilled!

I had two short stops in Athens: I had spent a week wandering around Crete on my own (see: Weekly Wanders Crete) and flew back into Athens to meet up with a small group with whom I then toured the mainland. After a week, we returned from the Peloponnesus (see: Ouzo for Breakfast) and stopped in the city for two short nights.

Of course, it wasn’t long enough! But the hotel chosen by the tour company was exceptionally well-located: a short walk from Syntagma Square and with views of the city and the Acropolis from its rooftop restaurant. So, I made the best of it.

Join me for some highlights.

Dusk over the parthenon from the Hotel Electra Athens, Greece

The Parthenon on the Hill
I arrived into the metropolis very late afternoon, but had time to appreciate the view from the rooftop restaurant …(iPhone12Pro)

Sunset over Athens from the Hotel Electra, Greece

Sunset over Athens
… before the sun came down over the sprawling city of Athens. (iPhone12Pro)

Square and fountain in front of Parliament House, Athens Greece

Parliament House
The next morning, phone and map in hand, I set off for a walk up the road, and found myself at the austere Neoclassical Parliament House on Syntagma (Constitution) Square. Built between 1836 and 1842, it was originally the palace of the King of Greece. (iPhone12Pro)

Bronze bust of Aischylos outside the National Garden, Athens Greece

Aischylos – the Father of Tragedy
(525-456)

For my morning walks, I always aim for the green patches on the map. That lead me past a number of bronze statues on the main road …(iPhone12Pro)

Marble bust of poet Georgios Souris in Zappeion Garden Athens.

Georgios Souris – Greek Poet
(1853 – 1919)

… and to busts of important local poets in the charming Zappeion Garden. (iPhone12Pro)

Blue sky and the rooftops of Athens from the Hotel Electra, Greece

The Rooftops of Athens
I was back at my hotel in time for breakfast on the rooftop, and enjoyed some clear morning views. Unfortunately, the lack of smoking prohibition meant that my neighbour, six inches away from my table, was puffing away on a foul-smelling local cigarette. (iPhone12Pro)

The Caryatids, on the Erechtheion with Athens in the background, Greece.

The Erechtheion and Athens
The next day, my new group and I had an early-morning tour of the Acropolis (see: On the Acropolis).

Scaffolding around the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Temple of Olympian Zeus
On our way through the centre of the city, we stopped at the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Originally started in the 6th century BCE, it was finally finished under the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE. It fell into disuse after being pillaged in 267 CE, and was mostly hidden by scaffolding during our visit. (iPhone12Pro)

Two pillars of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

The Olympieion
At one time, this was the largest temple in Greece, but it is hard now to get a sense of its former glory.

Man and woman gigging at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Digging at the Temple
Archaeologists perform painstaking excavation works under the supervision of the Ephorate of Antiquities.

Fallen corinthian column in circular sections, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Fallen Corinthian Column
Once, the temple included 104 colossal columns of fine marble.

Sun and flags in the Panathenaic Stadium, Athens, Greece

Flags in the Stadium
Our next stop was at the Panathenaic Stadium, built entirely of marble in 330-329 BCE. It was the site of the first Modern Olympics in 1896 and is still in use today.

Statue of Archbishop Damaskinos in Metropoleos Square Athens Greece

Statue of Archbishop Damaskinos by Greek Sculptor Fanis Sakellariou
Damaskinos Papandreou (1891 – 1949) was the archbishop of Athens and All Greece from 1941 until his death in 1949. He was also the Prime Minister of Greece for a time.

Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary, Athens Greece

Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary
This magnificent three-aisled basilica was begun in 1842 and finished 20 years later. It was largely built from marble recovered from 72 demolished churches around Athens.

Plaka Street, Athens, Greece

Athens Street
One of the joys of travel has to be the unique shopping experience! I had a wonderful time exploring the shops in the Plaka neighborhood. It has been described as a village within the city (see: Athens: the Plaka).

Flag on the Acropolis from Plaka Centre, Athens Greece

Flag On The Hill
Plaka sits under the rocky outcrop that houses the Acropolis.

Statue of Yannis Makriyannis, Plaka Greece

A Local Hero
In a public square nearby, a statue pays tribute to Yannis Makriyannis (1797-1864), a military officer who participated in the liberation war of Greece against Ottoman Empire.

Hadrian

Arch of Hadrian
Our last stop before we drive out of the city towards Meteora (see: A Walk through Ancient Monasteries) was at Hadrian’s Gate, an 18m (59 ft) monumental gateway built in 131 CE.

Pigeon on a bannister, Electra Hotel Athens Greece.

The Pigeon
A week later I was back on the Athens hotel rooftop fighting a pigeon for my morning toast. (iPhone12Pro)

Looking through a crowd at a regimental flag, Syntagma Square, Athens, Greece

Carrying the Standard
There was already a crowd in Syntagma Square when I arrived for the Sunday morning changing of the guard.

A column of Greek Presidential Guards in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

Fancy Sleeves and Bayonets
Every element of the distinctive Evzone uniform has a meaning tied to Greece’s modern history and national identity. The red Pharion (cap) they wear symbolises the blood spilled by the warriors during the liberation struggles, and the black silk tassel represents tears for the losses endured.

The back of three marching Greek Presidential Guards in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

Stepping Out
The Fustanella, the kilt, is made of 30 meters of white fabric with 400 pleats, which represent the number of years of Turkish occupation. The Fermeli (vest) is beautifully hand-embroidered with cultural designs in white or gilt thread.

Portrait of a female police officer, Athens, Greece.

National Police Officer

Greek Presidential Guards in Cretan uniform, Syntagma Square, Athens.

Stepping Out
The uniform of the Cretans, with its blue breeches and white leather boots, is worn for parades and official ceremonies. (iPhone12Pro)

Greek Presidential Guards marching in , Syntagma Square, Athens.

Pom Poms
Traditionally, the large black tassel on the tsarouhi (shoe) concealed blades that could be used in close-range combat. (iPhone12Pro)

Evzone officer marching for the Changing of the Guard, Athens, Greece.

Officer Marching
The uniform of the officers more closely resembles the dress worn by klephts – the brigands and/or freedom fighters who battled against the Ottoman occupiers. Officers are armed with a pála, a kilij-style curved scimitar. (iPhone12Pro)

Street Musicians, Ermou Street Athens Greece

Street Musicians
Evening in the cobbled streets near our hotel are charming – and a little cooler than the wickedly hot days.

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Ermou Athens Greece

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea
There is a new delight on every corner. Probably built around 1050 … (iPhone12Pro)

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Ermou Athens Greece

Busking
… the beautiful little Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is one of the oldest in Athens. (iPhone12Pro)

Museum of Modern Greek Culture and the Acropolis, Monasteraki Athens, Greece

In the Streets of Monastiraki
We are headed to the Monastiraki district for alfresco dining across from the Museum of Modern Greek Culture and evening views up to that ever-present Acropolis. (iPhone12Pro)

Night lights on the Acropolis from Hotel Electra, Athens Greece

Night Lights on The Acropolis
Back at the hotel after dark, I snuck up to the now-quiet rooftop for one last look at that incredible monument on the hill. (iPhone12Pro)

What a wonderful city!

I enjoyed every minute of it.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 10-12and18September2022

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