.jpg)
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, this beautiful basilica is an important stop along the UNESCO-listed French pilgrimage route to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Toulouse, France’s fourth-largest city and the capital of the southern Occitanie region, was an unexpected treat.
My husband and I were stopped there for two nights in transit, and had enjoyed our time wandering through the public gardens (see: Public Art and Gardens) and admiring the narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. What I didn’t know until later is that one of the buildings we were admiring, the Basilique Saint-Sernin, was actually UNESCO-heritage listed for its historic connection to a French portion of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. The Romanesque church, consecrated in 1096, was the most important stop in Southwest France for pilgrims walking to Galicia in northwestern Spain.
The city itself is layered with history. Originally founded by the Romans, Toulouse was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period. Traces of the Romance language that evolved from Latin in the region – known as Occitan, Langue d’Oc, or Provençal – can still be heard.
Linguistically, Occitan is closer to the Catalan spoken in Andorra and parts of eastern Spain than it is to French, and the Languedoc regions did not historically consider themselves part of the Kingdom of France. That all changed after the Albigensian Crusade (1209–1229) against the Cathars.
The Cathars, or self-identified ‘Good Christians’, were part of a loosely organised movement of pseudo-Gnostics which thrived in Southern Europe. Because they eschewed some of the teachings – and all of the excesses – of the Catholic Church, they were pronounced heretics. Pope Innocent III (1198 -1216) first tried to end Catharism by sending out missionaries, then launched the crusade against them – and their protectors, including the Count Raymond VI of Toulouse (1156 – 1222) – in 1209.
The twenty-year-long Albigensian Crusade (and the Medieval Inquisition which followed it) has been called a genocide: it was largely political and was ultimately effective. Long story short, there was a significant reduction in the number of practicing Cathars, the County of Toulouse became aligned with the French crown, and the distinct regional culture of Languedoc was diminished.
Since that time, Toulouse has been a solid Catholic bastion, which shows in its architecture.
.jpg)
Bicycles in Toulouse
European cities – or the city centres, at least – tend to be bicycle and pedestrian friendly.
.jpg)
Le Télégramme – Rue Gabriel Péri and Rue des 7 Troubadours
Streets run off in odd directions, and buildings nestle in where they can. This example, with its bluish gray slate roof and its stone and brick polychrome walls, is a distinctive Toulouse landmark.
The Toulouse Telegram
Designed by brother architects, Antoine and Raymond Isidore, as the home of one of Toulouse’s four main newspapers, the building, finished in 1912, has since been retrofitted several times.
The Cathedral of Saint Stephen
Down another narrow street, we find the chevet, or east end, of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, with its massive buttresses – built with the expectation that the choir would be much taller than it is.
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toulouse
Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral, the current building was started at the beginning of the 13th century (1210–1220). Called ‘militant religious architecture’, this more austere Southern French Gothic style of building was an attempt to woo back Catholics who had turned to Catharism – which advocated a more pious austerity. Heritage-listed by the French Ministry of Culture, the cathedral is still the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse, and is considered emblematic of the city and its historic joining into the Kingdom of France.
Balconies in the Pink City
Many of the city’s buildings are constructed from pinkish terracotta bricks – earning Toulouse its La Ville Rose (The Pink City) nickname.
City Streets
Residential streets are broad boulevards, full of leafy trees. Dogs are everywhere!
Capitole de Toulouse
The next morning we found ourselves in the massive square at the Capitole. The 135 m (443 ft) wide main façade of the city hall was built between 1750 and 1760 in the Neoclassical style from the characteristic local pink brick.
In the Café
The square is bounded by cafés and other small businesses.
Petit-Déjeuner – Gaufre à la Crème
Florist
Temporary businesses set up in the square daily.
Rue du Taur
Wandering the old cobbled streets lined with candy-coloured buildings was a delight. Rue du Taur (Street of the Bull), which runs between the Place du Capitole and Place Saint-Sernin, is so named because it is here that Saint-Saturnin (Sernin) was martyred during the 3rd century. The Romans had tied him to a furious bull that dragged him through the streets.
Notre Dame du Taur
The original building here was a Roman Catholic oratory built on the exact spot the patron saint of Toulouse, Saint Saturnin, was reputedly dropped by the bull in the year 250. What we see now was built between the 14th–16th centuries in Southern French Gothic, or Meridional Gothic, style.
Saint François d’Assise
This current building was classified as a historic monument in 1840, and has been UNESCO-listed since 1998 under the Paths of Saint Jacques de Compostela in France. Saints flank the portal of the west facade of the building’s clock tower.
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The number of pilgrims stopping at the Notre Dame du Taur to pay respects to Saint Saturnin was overwhelming, and in the 11th century, a larger church was started to accommodate them. Saturnin’s bones and other relics were transferred to this larger basilica.
Basilique Saint-Sernin Bell Tower
The commanding bell tower is divided into five tiers: the lower three, with their Romanesque arches, date from the 12th century, and the upper two Gothic sections date from the 13th century. The spire was added much later, in the 15th century.
Renaissance Gate to the Abbey
The Miègeville Gate – Circa 1100
Ancient Icons
The interior of the basilica is dark, and decorated with old iconographic artwork. I think this is theologian and philosopher Saint Augustine.
Deep Window
The Cross
Colours and Textures
Back outside the Saint Sernin Basilica, the spring air is full of the scent of flowers.
Outside the Basilica
The massive, ancient building looks different from every angle.
The Apse
The beautiful brickwork in the apse of the Basilica Saint-Sernin is immediately recognisable.
Café
There is always somewhere close at hand to stop for coffee.
Stade Toulousain Rugby
These old buildings are in constant need of love and attention …
Derelicts
… and some have fallen by the wayside.
Having seen a lot and walked a lot, we returned to our accommodation to prepare for the long train north to Paris the next day.
Of course, we stopped along the way for another wonderful meal.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-25April2011
.jpg)
