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Foix from the Château
The rain scrubs the rooftops of Foix as the little city drifts off into the clouds.
It was a lifetime ago.
My husband and I had trudged into the Medieval town of Foix in the Occitanie region of southwestern France at the end of a 12-day walk along the Cathar Trail in the Pyrenees (see: Castles, Countryside, and the end of the Trail). As we descended through the foothills towards the town, it started to rain, making the central fortress – the Château des Comtes de Foix – looks like a fairy-tale castle in the mist.
We were lucky enough to arrive just as serious rains were setting in – but the inclement spring weather didn’t stop us getting out to explore the sights the next day.
Today, Foix is known as a centre of the Catharism, an early Christian movement. The Cathars, or Albigensians, thrived in Southern Europe between the 12th and 14th centuries, but attracted the ire of the more powerful Catholic Church. From 1209 to 1229, under the reign of Pope Innocent III, they were subjected to the Albigensian Crusade; this and the Medieval Inquisitions that followed succeeded in eradicating the sect by 1350.
The history of Foix goes back further: to a Roman-built fort on the steep rock on which the castle now stands, dominating the town below. The current Château, known from 987, was built onto older 7th-century fortifications. Property of the Counts of Foix, feudal lords of the region, the fortress resisted repeated sieges for two centuries and became a refuge for many of the persecuted Cathars.
Restored in the 19th century and operating as a museum since 1930, the building we see today includes sections dating between the 12th and 15th century. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the medieval towers were repurposed as a prison (see: Stories Hidden in 18th-19th Century Graffiti); iron bars on the windows and strong doors with heavy locks are a reminder of this period.
Join us as we explore:
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Everywhere a Dog
This is France – dogs are everywhere. This one kept guard in the dark lobby of our hotel.
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Church Cross
Catholicism is strong in this region.
Foix in the Rain
There is something romantic about a couple sharing an umbrella.
Church Clock and Bells
Built in 849, the Saint-Volusien Abbey church stands on the site of an oratory founded by Charlemagne, King of the Franks.
Fountain under the Castle Stairs
Wet Walk to the Castle
It’s a wet and winding walk between the fortress and the town.
Stone Walls
The castle walls are textured and beautiful – and have seen centuries of change.
Foix through the Rails
Iron bars on the windows in the towers are a reminder of the castle’s use as a political and civil prison until 1862.
Graffiti
The carvings in the wall here are attributed to prisoners incarcerated in this cell. Toward the lower left, you can see a Crusader’s Cross.
Vaulted Ceiling
Foix through the Window
Another iron-barred window over the rainy city.
Femmes et Catharisme
I love when old castles include modern art – like this elegant sculpture by Jeannie Lucas.
From the Battlements
A view over one of the two square towers built before the 11th century.
Through the Battlements
More Walls and Windows
Cobbled Street
After the castle, we worked our way back down through charming streets …
Rue des Grands Ducs
… and narrow cobbled walkways between and under medieval half-timber buildings.
Greenery – Grapes?
Fountain in Pyrène Square
Artwork around the city ranges from the quirky …
Saint Volusian
… to the divine – like this statue in the St Volusian Abbey.
The “Goose” Fountain
Yes, it is actually a swan – I have no idea why they call it a goose.
Swan in the Street
At least the rain has stopped!
Foix and the Château
The next morning as we are heading for our train, we get a last look at the castle above the old town.
Definitely a delightful place for a short stop!
Until next time,
Bon Voyage!
Pictures: 23-24April2011
