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Tropical Blues and Greens
Even in the Wet Season, you can have beautiful days with clear skies and wonderful views in the Australian tropics. Towards the end of my stay in Port Douglas, Far North Queensland, I took the short climb up to the Flagstaff Hill Lookout for uninterrupted views over the Coral Sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Many, many years ago, I went to the cinema to see a then-new Australian film: Travelling North(1987) by prolific and much-loved playwright David Williamson. I was entranced! Not so much by the grumpy main character played by Leo McKern, or the plot, in which not much happens, but by the setting. After taking a road trip past Port Douglas, which is as far north as the road goes in Eastern Australia, a middle-aged (plus+) couple move from their cold, wet Melbourne home to northern Queensland.
From the moment I watched the movie, I wanted to visit their quaint wooden cottage where the tropical jungle wrapped around them like a warm blanket.
With COVID-19 travel restrictions still in place in 2021, Australian tourist destinations were offering all kinds of deals to local travellers to try to compensate for the lack of international visitors. We were prevented from even the thought of overseas trips; so – although mask and distancing rules abounded – it was the perfect opportunity for me to plan a lengthy domestic road trip.
Travel during the Wet Season in Tropical Far North Queensland might not be ideal, but while the rain can be heavy (think: a bathtub of tepid water being pour over your head), it doesn’t usually last all day. With the right shoes, you can still do and see a lot.
Even by the most direct route – which is not the one I took – the distance from my house to the end of the Eastern road is around 3000 km (1800 mi). But, I had a week in some very nice accomodation in the town of Port Douglas to look forward to, and plenty to do once I got there.
My drive north mostly followed the coastline. After a stop in Airlie Beach, where I made a trip to Hamilton Island on the Great Barrier Reef (see: In the Heart of the Reef), I continued to Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast (spoiler alert: I didn’t see any cassowaries – only warning signs!), where I had two days of unremitting rain before proceeding to Port Douglas, a mere 16.484° south of the equator.
Luckily, I managed to just miss a couple the cyclones that were whipping up and down the coast. Join me for some wet wanders:
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Mission Beach
The coastal town of Mission Beach has a tropical-monsoon climate. One of the rainiest parts of the Wet Tropics, it has an average annual precipitation of around 3,000 mm (1800 inches). I felt like it all fell while I was there! (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
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Dunk Island in the Rain
Mission Beach is the closest point to the Great Barrier Reef; Dunk Island, a popular resort location, floats off on the horizon just four kilometres away. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Flaky Barked Satinash – Syzygium Forte
As you’d expect, everything grows lush and fast in the tropics. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Four Mile Beach
My accommodation in Port Douglas backed onto the aptly named Four Mile Beach. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Lifesaver in a Sand Buggy
Four Mile Beach was quiet in the mornings, even so, the lifesavers were on patrol: think Baywatch or Bondi Rescue. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Mangroves and Rocks
A rocky headland marks the north end of Four Mile Beach. Walking into ‘downtown’ from this point, I could treat myself to a beautiful breakfast. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Bush Stone-Curlew – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush thick-knees, these large distinctive shorebirds are endemic to Australia, and are commonly seen near the coast. (21February2021)
On a Segway
I decided to play tourist, and went for a Segway tour of Four Mile Beach. Luckily I was the only one, as I found that it took a bit of getting used to! (21February2021 – NMI)
Orange-Footed Scrubfowl – Megapodius Reinwardt
Ranging across northern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea, scrubfowl are well camouflaged in the leaf litter at the edge of the scrub. (21February2021)
Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed
I got a closer look at this historic heritage-listed wharf and shed, built in 1904, from the water the next day (see: On Port Douglas Waters). (21February2021)
On the Mossman River
Playing tourist again, I found myself rafting on the nearby Mossman River through UNESCO-listed rainforest. (22February2021 – NMI)
Top of the Beach
My walk along Four Mile Beach every morning was a real treat. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
The Viewing Platform on Flagstaff Hill
The climb up Flagstaff Hill makes for a nice walk … (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Mountains and Cloud
… and allows great views over the coastline and sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Casuarinas, Mangroves and Coconuts
Another morning – another beachwalk. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Mushroom Ragout
All my meals were a real treat; … (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Magpie Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
… obviously the peewee with his eye on my breakfast agrees. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Casuarina Needles and Cones
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Grass in a Rainy Season Puddle
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
Praying Mantis
Driving south out of Port Douglas, I pulled into the charming mountain village of Kuranda, and then stopped at the Barron Gorge National Park. Metal sculptures line the path to the viewing platform over Barron (Din Din) Falls. I’ve been here before – but I don’t remember the sculptures – or even the nice, level walkway! (26February2021)
Giant Golden Orb-Weaving Spider – Nephila Pilipes
This beautiful creature along the walkway is one of Australia’s largest spiders. (26February2021)
Barron Falls
In spite of all the recent rains, there is not much water in the waterfall. The last two times I was here, the falls were roaring full.
Kuranda Scenic Railway
The first time I was here, we rode the heritage-listed tourist railway service from Cairns, over the Great Dividing Range, through the sugarcane fields of the Atherton Tablelands, and alighted in Kuranda. (26February2021)
Kuranda Rail Conductor
The line was built in 1891; some of the cars look almost that old! I felt rather nostalgic staying behind in the station and watching the train pull away in the rain. (26February2021)
Nature’s Artworks : Lattice Vines and Greenery
After the train pulls out, I walk back up the hill …
Nature’s Patterns : Leaves Overhead
… admiring the jungle around me as I go. (26February2021)
Almost Abstract : Tree Bark
(26February2021)
View from the Henry Ross Lookout
My last stop on the way into Cairns was at the highest point on the Kuranda Range road. Here, we can lookout over Cairns, its northern beaches, Trinity Bay, and the Coral Sea beyond. (26February2021 – iPhone12Pro)
The story of Travelling North was originally a play (1979) – which takes place in in Northern NSW, not Far North Queensland. I’ve been lucky enough to see the iconic Brian Brown in a more recent re-staging of the play (see: Stage Whispers). Of course, I had to pay more attention to the actors and the dialogue, because that wonderful, embracing tropical jungle wasn’t part of the cast.
I am so grateful to have visited it for myself.
Pictures: 17-26February2021
