Bricks, Manual Labour, and Smiles: Rebuilding Bungamati (1), Nepal

Newari man and woman bricklaying on an upper story of a Bungamati house, Nepal

Working Together
A husband and wife have their hands full rebuilding the wreckage of their home in Bungamati, Nepal, almost two years after the devastating earthquake in April, 2015.

In the traditional town of Bungamati – or Amarapur – in the fertile Kathmandu Valley about nine kilometres to the south of Kathmandu, people live and farm simply, much as they have for generations. These are the Newars (Newari): the historical inhabitants of the region.

This settlement site has probably existed since at least the Kirati period (800 BC–300 AD), with concrete evidence dated to 605 AD, in the form of a stele dedicated to King Amshuverma who reigned during the Licchavi Kingdom (400 to 750 CE).

This traditional antiquity comes at a price. Most of the houses were made of traditional mud and brick, so the April 2015 Nepal earthquake (also known as the Gorkha earthquake) caused massive damage – including the destruction of the Machhindranath Temple, which was the central ritual focus of town. According to one site: Machindranath … before modern-day Hinduism and Buddhism, was the most revered God in this part of the world.

I was on a workshop with photographers Jack Kurtz (sadly, now deceased) and Gavin Gough and was visiting some of the historic Newar villages in the region (see: Making Mustard Oil). At that time, almost two years after the earthquake, Bungamati’s residential homes and historic monuments remained in ruins.

All the restoration work that I could see was being done manually, and much of it seemed to be undertaken by the property holders themselves. Although touted as a centre for traditional Nepali woodcarving (more on that some other time), the town had clearly not received the support necessary to rebuild, and many people were still living in damaged buildings or temporary housing.

And yet, life goes on and people keep smiling. Join me for a walk in the ruins.

Bungamati Street
We entered the historic little centre via a dusty road flanked by piles of construction materials and buildings in disrepair.

Shells of their Former Selves
It is hard to believe people have had to winter here for two seasons already.

Building Materials
The whole main street is still a construction site.

Cement and Sand

Woman in a Window
Even surrounded by cracking walls and damaged, but beautiful carved timberwork, people still have time to smile at the stranger.

Door Lock

Brick Pile
Even the making of the bricks that have been delivered here is a labour-intensive local industry.

Rebuilding Home
I love the details that have gone into these buildings! Although small government grants were promised to families in the town, they were slow to be delivered.