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Museum and Mountains
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman is like a symbol of Muscat, or of Oman as a whole: modern architecture based on traditional Omani Arabic principles, surrounded by an oasis of lush gardens and rugged, arid hills – and watched over by medieval Portuguese forts.
Muscat, the Sultanate of Oman’s capital and most populous city, has been known as an important trading seaport since at least the early 1st century. Hemmed in by the rugged Western Al Hajar Mountains, the sheltered port city lies on the Arabian Sea along the Gulf of Oman, where the waters lead east to the Indian Ocean, and west to the Straits of Hormuz and the Persian Gulf.
The original tribal dwellers of this strategically important location were challenged by the Neo-Persian Empire in the 3rd century CE, but the influence of the Al-Azd tribal Arab dynasty continued to grow until the First Imamate was established in the 9th century. The Portuguese conquered Muscat in 1507, built fortresses – which still stand – to protect their trading routes, and maintained a hold on the city against challenges from Persia and the Ottoman Turks for over a century.
By the early 1600s, the balance of power shifted again, from the Persians and the Portuguese to local Omanis, but infighting and conflict continued until the emergence of the Al Bu Sa‘id dynasty in 1749. This family has ruled Oman ever since.
Oman might be the oldest independent state in the Arab world, but it is a bundle of contradictions. The country is an absolute monarchy, and although the current ruler Haitham bin Tarik Al Said is described as “outward-looking and Western-oriented”, as with any autocracy, civil and human rights can be ignored with impunity.
But, the country has come a long way. Until the overthrow of Sultan Said bin Taimur, who ruled from 1932-1970, the country was closed to any outside influences. In spite of considerable proceeds from the export of oil, the people suffered high mortality rates. There were only three schools, the literacy rate was 5%, and there were only 10 kilometres (6 mi) of paved roads. By contrast, in 2010, after forty years of rule by his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Said, the United Nations ranked Oman as the most improved nation in the world in terms of development.
This development is not unbridled, however. While new buildings look to safety and function, they are also expected to conform to design and height restrictions, and must be in “harmony with the elements of Islamic and Arab Omani architecture”. As a consequence, Muscat’s urban landscape consists of modern low-lying white buildings that blend seamlessly with historical architecture and the landscape.
Oman’s return to modern development and an outward-looking economy make it a comfortable place to visit. Tourism is the fastest-growing industry, and provided one respects local rules and traditions, the country feels safe and hassle-free.
Certainly, Muscat was a pleasure to explore, with plenty to see.
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Prayer Hall
Our first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around the magnificent interior. This intricate 21 tonne carpet took four years to make, and the 14 metres (46 feet) tall Italian-made central chandelier includes 600,000 Swarovski crystals.
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Inside the Mosque Muhammad al-Amin
We then spent time exploring the slightly more modern marble-clad Muhammad al-Amin Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces).
Sultan Qaboos Port
Muscat clings to the waterfront. The Muttrah Corniche follows the outlines of the Sultan Qaboos Port. The wealth here is evidenced in the two royal yachts sitting in the harbour.
Entry to Mutrah Souq
Regardless of vagaries of spelling, the Muttrah Souk is a delight to wander around.
Snuff Tins
It is one of the oldest marketplaces in the Arab world, and although there are some products aimed at tourists, it clearly is a local market.
Trinkets, Jewels and Gems
Every square inch is full of fascinating products, and the while the shopkeepers are friendly, they weren’t intrusive.
Traditional Glass Mosaic Lanterns
Souk Corridor
It was hot outside, but the wide lanes of the souk were actually relatively cool and restful – and the whole place smelled delightfully of Frankincense.
Gold Finery
There is some real money in this city! I settled for a couple of scarves.
Mutrah Fort
Back on the waterfront, we found a local place to eat lunch under the watchful eye of the tower built by the Portuguese in the 1580s as part of the city fortifications.
Waterfront Fish Sculpture
The Corniche
The roadway along the waterfront is flanked with beautifully tiled walkways which culminate in parks on the points.
Dhow in the Harbour
Oman takes great pride in its boatbuilders, and traditional wooden dhows are still used for fishing and tourism.
Riyam Incense Burner
High above a waterfront park, a watchtower that looks like an incense burner was built in 1990 to celebrate Oman’s 20th National Day.
View over Old Muscat
From a hillside vantage point, we look over the forts and buildings of the old city.
At the Sidab Women’s Group
A bit further up the hill, we stopped in at the Sidab Women’s Sewing Group, a poverty alleviation initiative, where we admired local textiles …
Kahwa at the Sidab Womens Group
… and of course, were offered coffee. In Oman, coffee – kahwa or qahwa in Arabic – is blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon, and served with fresh dates as a ritual ‘welcome’. I loved it!
Minaret and Mountains
Back on the road, we head into Old Muscat …
Al Alam Palace Gate
… past the colourful gate to the old palace, …
White Wall
… and past classic white-washed walls.
Al-Mirani Fort
The old city is separated from the rest of modern Muscat by coastal mountains – and Portuguese walls and forts.
Nubian Ibex (Capra Ibex Nubiana)
Outside the Bait Al Zubair Museum, we find colourful models of the native desert-dwelling goats …
Relief Model
… and a model of the old city as it would have looked in 1625 when the encircling walls were finished.
Omani Khanjar
The National Museum of the Sultanate of Oman was established in 2013 …
Carved Arch
… as a showcase for the country’s cultural heritage …
Bronze Age Magan Boat
… and history, back to the earliest settlement.
Omani Door Handle
Beautifully carved wooden doors and their heavy ornamentation feature everywhere in the country.
Desert Jewels – The National Museum
Sunset over Muscat
For a different perspective on the city, I took a sunset cruise in an old dhow (Watch this Space!). You can just see the incense burner and city fortifications against the darkening sky.
Certainly a culturally rich and fascinating place!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 20 and 26October2019
[…] a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea off the coast of the city in a […]