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Basílica y Convento de San Francisco
The Historic Centre of Lima has a view and a story around every corner and through every window. The iconic and much-photographed cloister windows at the San Francisco Monastery are an example.
The only travel I can do at the moment is vicariously: with our government giving us no clue as to when borders might open again, it is impossible to plan and it is hard to even dream …
I am trying to use this down-time productively: cleaning out boxes and drawers and cupboards. But, I’m not very successful; I keep finding things that send me down rabbit warrens of memories.
The other day, I came across trip notes and maps from a long-ago trip to South America. Well, to be more accurate, from Argentina (see: Perito Moreno and El Chaltén) and Peru. South America is a big place! Naturally, the trip notes beckoned me into a hunt for some almost-forgotten photos: taken in rough JPEG formats on non-SLR cameras, and stored on an old computer that takes thirty minutes to fire up and shut down again.
My husband and I had three short stays in Lima: before and after walking the Inca Trail, and again after a trip to the head of the Amazon (more on those travels some other day), and were based each time at a charming hotel in the beautiful coastal suburb of Miraflorés.
Being 12 degrees off the equator, Lima is in a tropical, but dry, climate zone, getting almost no rain. It is also surprisingly cool, benefiting from something called the Humboldt Current – cold, low salinity waters that flow north from Antarctica towards the equator. This gives Lima in general, and Miraflores in particular, almost constant misty fog from the Pacific Ocean, resulting in enough humidity to keep the skies grey and the gardens green.
On our first visit we enjoyed a city tour. The influence of the previous Spanish colonial masters is still much evident in the Moorish architecture, particularly in the city centre, or Plaza de Armas, which is a UNESCO-listed heritage site. Originally known to the Spaniards as the “Ciudad de los Reyes” (City of Kings), it has a strongly Catholic heritage, and many of the important buildings in the old centre are churches or monasteries. I was particularly startled by the Catacombs under the San Francisco Monastery where the bones of some 25,000 humans have been kept in brick wells since the 1700’s. In the nearby Santo Domingo Church, the heads of three Saints are preserved and on display in cases!
Our second visit was spent comfortably settled in the delightful courtyard of our hotel, sorting out photos and catching up with work.
We spent a day on the water on our third stay – visiting the islands off Puerto del Callao. The birdlife in the area was amazing: Peruvian boobies dive-bombing the water, massive pelicans cruising just above it, and turkey vultures perched atop islands waiting for dinner. At the Islas Palominas, I actually braved the freezing waters of the Peruvian Sea to swim with the sea lions. Even in a wetsuit, those waters from Antarctica are bracing! But what I remember most is the smell: there is nothing like an island that is home to guano-producing birds and fish-eating sea lions for producing stench! Even our English word “guano” comes to us via Spanish (huano) from the local indigenous Quechua language word huanu, meaning ‘dung’.
Still – it’s worth it! Do join me.
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Ancient Olive Press
On the short drive from the airport, we get glimpses of the rich history and heritage in the City of Kings.
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Local Guide
Our vivacious guide took real joy in explaining all the sights as we passed them.
Plaza De Armas De Lima
The Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro established the city of Lima – and the 140-square-meter (1,500-square-foot) Plaza Mayor or Plaza de Armas – in 1535. Although the buildings surrounding the plaza don’t date back quite that far, they are a beautiful collaboration between “Old World” architectural styles and local craftsmanship.
History Lessons
This area was an agricultural region known as Limaq to the native Peruvians. Limaq, meaning “talker” or “speaker” in the coastal Quechua language, was a famous oracle in the Rímac Valley. The Spaniards called it theCity of Kings, but this name fell into disuse. “Lima” is probably from a mispronunciation of the original name .
Fountain
The fountain at the centre of the plaza dates to 1651, built under the government of Viceroy García Sarmiento de Sotomayor.
Police in the Plaza De Armas
Lima has an unfortunate reputation for high rates of muggings and theft. The police presence was high.
Palacio Municipal de Lima
Although this building only dates to 1939, it is modelled on the earlier civil colonial buildings with their exquisite Moorish-style window treatments.
The Nave
Built between 1535 and 1649, and most recently restored in 1940, the Basilica Cathedral of Lima is ornately carved and richly gilded.
Capilla de Nuestra Señora de la Evangelizacion
More simply called Lima Cathedral, the Roman Catholic cathedral features a Chapel of Our Lady.
Basilica of San Francisco
The Spanish-baroque styled Saint Francis Monastery was built between 1673 and 1674.
Service from the Choir Loft
Although some of the original buildings have been given over to secular uses, the temple is still a place of worship.
Cloister Windows
The second-story windows around the main cloister in the San Francisco Monastery are beautiful …
Courtyard
… and overlook a formal courtyard with a central fountain.
Ossuary
Underground at the monastery, crypts built of bricks and mortar contain decoratively arranged human remains. Used as a burial-place until 1808, the mass graves – estimated to contain 25,000 bodies – were only rediscovered in in 1943. It is an eerie sight – somewhat spoiled by the bits of litter that have found their way onto the bone piles.
I have read that photos are not allowed in the catacombs; when we visited, we were told no flash.
Different City – Different Taxi Colour
It is a relief to climb out of the dusty catacombs, and back into the colourful city. I love the small differences that make cities distinctive: local taxis are one of those things that always stand out for me.
Fruit Cart – Lima
El Parque del Amor
Our hotel in Miraflores was a short walk from Love Park. This park, which is said to be inspired by the work of Spanish architect, Antoní Gaudí, opened on Valentine’s Day in 1993. The ceramic mosaics weaving along the boundaries are embedded with quotes about love from Peruvian writers.
Faro de la Marina
The nearby waterfront parklands feature the still active, much-visited, La Marina Lighthouse.
Intihuatana – The Hitching Post
A 2002 sculpture by Fernando de Szyszlo pays homage to indigenous Quechua sun worship. An Intihuatana is a ritual stone associated with Incan astronomic clocks or calendars. As the sculptor explained, a hitching post to catch the sun is needed to counteract Lima’s overcast skies.
Cactus and Colours
Miraflores streets are colourful with adobe-style buildings and greenery.
Lighthouse Clock Tower
A rare glimpse of blue sky boded well for our trip onto the cold waters off the coast of Callao.
Capitanía Guardacosta Maritima Del Callao
Callao was founded by the Spanish in 1537, and is still one of Latin America’s largest commercial ports. The Coast Guard (housed in what was once the Harbour Master headquarters) oversees maritime traffic.
Islas Palomino
Our trip to the Palomino Islands is a short ride into the Humbolt Current, past small fishing boats, past the large Isla San Lorenzo and several smaller islands, and past flights of fishing birds. It is hard to pinpoint which hits you first: the smell or the noise! Countless screeching birds compete against the sound of the waves crashing, and the bellowing barks of as many as eight-thousand sea lions.
Swimming with the Sea Lions
Our guide and I were the only ones to brave the freezing waters. Truthfully, I was a bit nervous: even a female South American sea lion can grow to 2 m (7 ft) and around 150 kg (330 lb). Their fishy breath alone is enough to knock you over! The males (who didn’t come out to meet us) are twice that size.
Peruvian Folk Dance
Vibrance and bold tones colour local folk dance. This one goes back to Black traditions: the Conquistadores brought many African slaves with them.
Peruvian Folk Dance
In spite of colonialism, the Inca heritage runs deep through Peruvian culture, and comes to life in the distinctive woven and embroidered fabrics.
Night Lights on Cathedral of Lima
One of the many high-points of our visit was the food: every meal we had was a winner. The locally-grown olives were wonderful, and even though I’m not a fish lover, the ceviche – raw fish marinated in piquant spices and lime – was a taste treat. My favourite, though, were the ‘world famous’ pisco sours, made from pisco (locally produced grape brandy), lime juice, egg white and bitters.
Very tasty!
Until next time,
Cheers – ¡Salud!
Photos: 04, 13, and 18April2006
