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Red, White, Green, and Blue
Whitewashed walls, red or brown tiled roofs, green mountain shrubbery, and the blues of the Mediterranean sky: the mountains of Andalusia in Southern Spain are known for their charming Pueblos Blancos or White Villages.
The literature we had been sent called the town of Mijas ‘the most charming and picturesque Andalusian village of the Costa del Sol’. They had me convinced with their picture of tiny whitewashed houses lining a steep, narrow staircase, decorated with wrought iron and hanging pots of geraniums; the idea of a stop for churros con chocolate in one of the many coffee shops was just a bonus!
In the mountains of Andalusia, there are a number of picturesque towns collectively known at the Pueblos Blancos or White Villages. We had a day docked in the Spanish coastal city of Málaga (see: Málaga – Costa del Sol) and took the opportunity to make the short bus trip into Las Alpujarras – as the mountains on the south slopes of the Sierra Nevada are called – to spend the afternoon in Mijas Pueblo. This traditional hillside village is nestled on the mountainside about 430 metres (1,476 feet) above sea level, overlooking the Costa del Sol.
The town dates back to prehistoric times, and boasts artefacts from the ancient Greeks and the Phoenicians. It came under the rule of Rome, the Visigoths, and later, the Moors – who ruled Andalucia for centuries before being conquered by the Catholic Monarchs in 487.
In the past, Mijas relied on agriculture, fishing, and some farming and mining for its livelihood, before turning to tourism in the 1950s. Today, the commercial centre of Mijas and the tourist centre of Mijas Pueblo have a symbiotic relationship as separate entities.
As is the case in many of the Pueblos Blancos, the Mijas local council enforces the regular whitewashing of all buildings to protect the tourism and heritage value. Historically, the whitewash mixture (lime, water, chloride, and white cement) was used to keep the houses cooler in summer and to repel insects.
It is a pleasant walk around the town – although with the meandering network of small streets, we kept getting lost! In many places, there are magnificent views back over the countryside and to the coast, which has earned the town the nickname: “Mirador de la Costa del Sol” or “Viewpoint of the Costa del Sol.”
Come for a walk:
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“Mijas“
Say no more! The colourful town name on the promotional literature, and on the wall outside the Tourism Office, tells the visitor this is a lively place that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
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Andalusian Donkeys
The Asno Andaluz or Andalusian Donkey is the oldest European breed of domestic donkey, native to this general area. Today, they are rare – except here in Mijas, where they have progressed from working the fields and local mines, to becoming a tourist attraction.
Paseo Burro – Donkey Taxi
Mijas Pueblo donkeys are as infamous as they are famous: animal rights activists have agitated over the years to improve the situations of these sweet little animals. We were lucky to not see any overburdened by overweight riders, and were pleased to see most of them were shaded as they waited for work.
Chapel of the Virgin of the Rock
Excavated into the rocks around 1548 by Mercedarian friars, the Chapel of the Virgin is a monastery and Catholic holy site.
La Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña de Mijas
The chapel is tiny …
Inside La Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña
… but richly decorated, and with precious relics.
Jesus and the Bell
Outside, Jesus of the Sacred Heart stands over the chapel.
Buying Fresh Nuts
In the chapel courtyard, local nuts are for sale.
Water-Powered Mill
Outside the old flour mill, a water mill has been restored …
Antiguo Molino de Harina – Old Flour Mill
… and the ancient stone walls are decorated with plants.
Mijas Street
Paved and cobbled streets lined with boutiques, coffee shops, restaurants, souvenir outlets, and residences meander off in all directions.
Mijas Street
The narrow streets are steep, and full of stairs and tourists, …
Mijas Stairs
… but the whitewash and hanging flowers make everything bright and cheerful.
Courtyards
There are shops and restaurants to discover around every corner.
Pottery in Mijas
Brightly coloured ceramic pottery hangs from artisan’s walls. (iPhone6)
Wrought Iron and Plant Pots
The parish church of Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción sits atop a hill on the horizon.
Mijas Courtyard
The local residents must stay very fit with all the stairs!
Callistemon
Colour is everywhere.
Fountain Plaza de la Constitución
Andalusian Hills
New developments stretch out across the hills – but, they must conform to the rules of colour!
Mijas Panorama
From one vantage point, we can look across the 10 kilometres to the sea – and beyond.
Bronze Statue
Mijas pays tribute to the role that donkeys have had in its history: outside the Tourist Office, a statue of a donkey – designed by local artist, Lázaro Cruz Jaime and financed by the local Lions Club – takes pride of place.
Andalusian Horse
As a horse-lover, I dreamed of Andalusians as a child. I was thrilled to see them in their native home, where they have been recognised as a distinct breed since the 15th century. Such magnificent animals – and much daintier than I expected.
Andalusian Horse
I was pleased I had a bit of fruit in my bag to share with this beauty.
Andalusian Donkeys
It’s a quiet afternoon, tourist-wise …
Man and his Donkeys
… and the donkeys are taken back to their small pens for the night. International pressure has forced the council to keep a closer eye on the handling and care of these donkeys, but there is still room for improvement!
As the donkeys went home for the night, we filed back onto our bus to head back to our boat in Málaga harbour, where we would set sail for the next port on our agenda …
Until next time,
Happy Sailing!
Pictures: 17April2018
