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Getting Ready for the Dance
Face-painting is an integral part of the costuming for the traditional cultural dances that are performed at a Papuan sing-sing.
It takes a lot of time to prepare for a Papua New Guinean sing-sing.
Ancient masks and costumes – some pieces carved from wood and others woven from leaves and grasses: all decorated with paint, shells or feathers – have to be checked and repaired. New costume details need to be fashioned from leaves and grasses. And – most importantly – faces have to be painted in patterns that are specific to the village and its totems.
The dances and songs that are performed have been passed down through the years to each successive generation. At a sing-sing – a friendly gathering of tribes or villages – each local or visiting group can demonstrate and share their culture, with its distinctive dance and music.
These days, of course, sing-sings are organised not only to re-enforce local culture, but also to attract tourist dollars. In the relatively “temperate” month of August, the people of Kanganaman Village, in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea, host the annual (since 2014) Sepik River Festival. This fledgling event draws performers from surrounding villages and a small audience of intrepid international travellers. I was there last year with photographer Karl Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, and a small group of photo enthusiasts.
I had spent much of my morning in the village’s main haus tambaran, or spirit house, watching the men of Kanganaman getting their face-paint ready for their dance performance (see: A Black and White View and Crocodile Men). But, Kanganaman has not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House). The smaller one is open to everyone in the village, and it was there that the women were gathered – out of the sun, but still blanketed in oppressive heat – getting their costuming and face-painting ready for their contribution to the festival.
Come and meet the women (and their children), and watch them get ready.
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Grooming and Selling
The Sepik River region has long been known to collectors of tribal art: before the dancing starts, the local women have laid out woven- and carved-goods at the edges of the open green in the hope of attracting the eyes of the international tourists.
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A Boy and his Snack
Papua New Guinea is a young country (almost thirty-three percent of the population is under 15) and there are children everywhere.
Papuan Boy
They are a delight to photograph –
Papuan Child
– even when they are not quite sure what to make of me!
In the Little Spirit House
It is hot and dark and crowded inside the Little Spirit House where the village women are helping each other get ready.
Woman with a Cigarette
The same material and method that goes into making traditional bilum string carry-bags is used to make the women’s halter-bras and their shell headdresses. Long-leaf tobacco is rolled in cut newspaper rectangles to make long, slim cigarettes.
Papuan Woman
Many of the women are decorated with irregular facial tattooing that shows faintly against their dark skin.
Young Papuan Woman
Preparations for a sing-sing are a good opportunity to get together for a chat and a laugh. The smiles show off the betel-nut staining common across all of Papua New Guinea.
Woman Getting Ready
Some of the women favour cornrows – and scarification is also common.
Cornrows and Laughter
Outside the spirit house, the mid-day sun is as bright as the smiles.
Woman Getting Ready
Young Woman in the Spirit House
Young Boy
Face Painting for the Dance
Young Woman in a Shell Headdress
Seashells are so important in Papua New Guinea that they were the national currency until 1933.
Tending each Other
Face Painting
I can’t help but admire the wonderful bone-structure under the faces being painted!
Stilted Village House
What amazes me, given all the activity in the sing-sing preparation areas, ….
People in the Village House
… is how many people are outside those preparations!
Papuan Child
Papuan Child with Food
Papuan Mask
Inside the Spirit House, precious artefacts are on display, …
Mother and Child
…while outside, life goes on.
Young Papuan Woman
Even though August is usually the coolest month of the year, Papua New Guinea is in the tropics, and it is bright and even hot outside, …
Old Woman with her Eyes Painted
… and nearly as hot inside the Little Spirit House.
Waiting for the Dance
When I left the little spirit house, it was early afternoon, and the women were still busy.
I guess in some ways the preparation is as important as the actually dance. 
Until next time –
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 14August2017
