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Evening on Ballet Bay
As we worked our way up British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, we stopped in for a peaceful overnight anchorage in Ballet Bay, on the north side of Nelson Island.
“Cruising has two pleasures. One is to go out in wider waters from a sheltered place. The other is to go into a sheltered place from wider waters.”
– Howard Bloomfield
I’m not sure which I enjoy more: whipping across windy waters with our 38-foot Graystone on a comfortable low-heel, or being safely anchored or tied-up in one of the glorious spots available to us either side of British Columbia’s Strait of Georgia.
Being somewhat unskilled sailors, my husband and I like to err on the side of caution. When heading into new (for us) waters, we try to check the charts, the cruising guides, and our sailing mentors. We also err on the side of laziness: if our sailing mentors suggest we follow in their wakes, we jump at the chance of not having to do all the thinking ourselves!
And so it was, in beautiful late-June weather, we set out behind our friends’ 32-foot Catalina, Alaunia, to visit harbours and bays new to us, but familiar to them, on the northern end of the Sunshine Coast of southwestern British Columbia.
It was our third morning on the water: after crossing the Strait from our home-berth of Nanaimo, and overnighting in Hospital Bay, Pender Harbour and in Ballet Bay on Nelson Island (see: Strait Sailing Part 1), we had our headings set for Cortes Island at the upper limits of the Strait of Georgia. Even when the winds didn’t blow or when the rains fell, the coastal and island beauty we passed was breathtaking.
Join us for a motor-sail north into BC waters:
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Alaunia leaving Ballet Bay
Early in the morning, we follow Alaunia as she motors gently out of Ballet Bay, …
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Boat on Ballet Bay
… past anchored cruisers and sleeping houses, …
Alaunia
… and into Malaspina Strait.
Sliammon Lands – Lund
We stopped into Lund, a small hamlet towards the northern-most end of BC’s Sunshine Coast Highway, for lunch and supplies. The traditional home of the Coast Salish people, this area has been inhabited for thousands of years.
Lund Hotel
We loved the charming village so much that we stopped in again on our way back home by sailboat, and once more, when we were making our trip back to the mainland by land (i.e.: by highway and BC Ferries).
Lund Watermill
The settlement was named for the city of Lund in Sweden by the Thulin brothers, who settled here from Sweden in 1889.
Lund Harbour
Today, this unincorporated village provides safe harbour to small crafts, and is home to many shops and services catering to tourists and outdoor adventurers.
Stone Steps at Nancy’s Bakery
Nancy’s Bakery is a favourite for locals and tourists alike; we enjoyed our freshly-baked lunch in the sun before continuing north.
Into Desolation Sound
As we turn northeast towards Desolation Sound, the weather closes in. The bleak, overcast weather that greeted Captain Vancouver when he first explored this area in 1792 led to him giving it its name:
“Our residence here was truly forelorn; an awful silence pervaded the gloomy forests, whilst animated nature seemed to have deserted the neighbouring country, whose soil afforded only a few small onions, some samphire and here and there bushes bearing a scanty crop of indifferent berries. Nor was the sea more favourable to our wants, the steep rocky shores prevented the use of the seine, and not a fish at the bottom could be tempted to take the hook.”
– Captain George Vancouver
Rain on the Strait
Fortunately for us, there is diesel in the tank, and our wet-weather gear is handy: inclement weather will not dull our enjoyment of a day on the water!
“There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.”
― Ranulph Fiennes
Mountains all Around
(Three days later, as we are returning south, the Sound shows us how stunningly beautiful it can be …
Islets in the Strait of Georgia
… under blue skies in good weather.)
In Alaunia’s Wake
On our trip north, however, we are still under motor as we turn right into Desolation Sound …
Boat on Desolation Sound
… and motor past the other leisure boats and towards Squirrel Cove.
Seasonal Prawns
Once we are safely anchored in Squirrel Cove, we pull out the fresh prawns we bought straight off a fishing boat in Lund. They make a tasty addition to a simple dinner!
Dinghy on Squirrel Cove
In the morning, we – like other visitors – have time to get the dinghies out.
“Nexus”
We sneak past boats at anchor …
Stream into Squirrel Cove
… to explore the foreshore of the bay …
Mossy Rocks
… where cool waters tumble over the mossy rocks.
Starfish on the Moss
Starfish are attached all over the shallow bottom, …
Waters on Squirrel Cove
… clinging to the rocks in the fast-moving waters.
Stream into Squirrel Cove
Motor Cruisers on Squirrel Cove
Somebody always has a bigger boat!
Squirrel Cove
Cortes Island is all First Nation territory; the little community of Squirrel Cove includes a trading post and a Christian church.
We watch Squirrel Cove slip into the background as we head across the waters into the Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park.
More about that some other time –
Until then,
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 24-25June2015 and 03-04July2015
