Walking the Barge
Being transported up a canal, towed by a slowly plodding shire horse, makes one imagine English country life as it once must have been.
The Tiverton Canal Co. calls it: “The Fastest Way to Slow Down!”
I think they are right. Being transported up a canal, towed by a slowly plodding shire horse, makes one imagine English country life as it must have once been. Scenes from Thomas Hardy novels spring to mind.
It was towards the end of July – the last days of our stay in Britain; after a hectic time with friends and family, a “slow” day out on one of Britain’s few remaining horse-barges, on a charming canal in the sunny Devon countryside, seemed like an ideal tonic.
The Grand Western Canal Country Park and Local Nature Reserve runs just over eleven miles between the towns of Tiverton and Lowdwells, along a preserved canal that was originally intended to be part of a transportation network between the Bristol and English Channels. This section of canal, running along on the border between Devon and Somerset, was first opened in 1814. Other sections of the ambitious plan faced technical difficulties and cost blow-outs, and the whole project was never completed. Competition from the railways in the mid-1800s rendered the canal system impractical, and many sections fell into disuse and subsequent ruin.
The Devon County Council bought what remained of the Grand Western Canal from the British Waterways Board in the early 1970s, and have continued to renovate and maintain the area as public parklands.
The horse-drawn barge has been taking visitors up and down the waterway since the earliest days.
Ross and the Ticket Office
Visitors to the Tiverton Canal Company booth are greeted by Ross, a giant, gentle, shire horse.
Ross the Shire Horse
The ten-year-old, 17.1-hand- (1.75 metre) tall shire horse is happy to pose for a photo…
Andy
… as is Andy, his handler.
Turning
Everything on the canal boat is done manually – – –
Tying Up
– including the slow process of turning it around on a canal only barely wider than the boat is long.
Mollie
One of the resident collies is unhappy about not being in control of the boat, and runs up and down on the opposite shore, making sure the men do their jobs properly.
Turning the Barge
Head-horseman David chats to interested passers-by as he prepares to attach the tow rope to Andy the shire horse.
Georgie behind the Bar
Inside the boat, Georgie explains the drink, snack and souvenir options.
Walking the Barge
Dave and Ross make their way along the towpath, gently pulling the boat.
Watchers on the Shore
Walkers on the towpath stop to watch the canal boat glide by.
Bridge over the Canal
The canal is on relatively high ground, and the Devon County Council has had to effect numerous repairs to keep the water contained.
Moorhen
The canal provides a great nesting-place for various local birds. We saw a number of babies: moorhens, ducks, swans and other waterbirds.
Canberra Bomber Crash Site
In 1961, an RAF-operated English Electric Canberra crashed into the Great Western Canal, here at Great Manley. Both men aboard were killed.
Bicyclist
A man pauses as Dave and Ross pass under the bridge. In the old days, ponies or donkeys were often used to pull the barges, as some of the bridges are too low and narrow for larger horses.
Ross the Shire Horse
On the other side of the bridge, Ross is detached from the barge. He stands patiently while the men turn the barge around in preparation for the return trip.
Pastorale
The canal is treed and shady – a beautiful recreation area on a surprisingly hot English summer day.
Ross from the Window
Ross uses his freedom from restraint to graze…
To the Aqueduct
… as we get off the barge and walk under another bridge to an old aqueduct.
Canal Boats
Private houseboats sit on the canal in the sunshine.
Old Aqueduct
This aqueduct was built in 1847 as part of a railway expansion.
Water Weeds
Sun on the Aqueduct
Back along the Tow Path
The canal-boat passengers return…
Back to the Barge
… to reboard for the trip back down the canal.
Ross Loves Polo Mints
Some of the passengers stop to pat Ross and feed him the Polo mints he loves.
Millie the Collie
From her perch on the roof of the barge, …
Millie the Collie
… Millie watches over the proceedings.
Boat on the Canal
Recreational boating (canoes, rowboats, and the odd motorboat) is popular on the canal waters.
Swans on the Canal
A family of mute swans makes me think of Wind in the Willows and English summer.
On the way back down the canal, David said there was one way to enjoy the real Canal experience. “I ask everyone to be completely quiet for two minutes, so you can get a sense of what it was like in the old times.”
We all sat in silence: the only sounds were from the slapping of the water on the sides of the barge, and the steady clopping of Andy’s hooves.
I guess it is a symptom of our era: about half way into our quiet time, I heard a woman behind me ask her partner impatiently, “That’s two minutes, isn’t it?”
I, on the other hand, was enjoying the meditative calm.
Until next time,
Keep smiling!
30July2015
