.jpg) On the Rails
A charming little train with a sleek, modern exterior and traditional-looking wooden-slat seats inside follows electric, self-propulsion rack-railway tracks through the subalpine forests and up the steep climb from the Chamonix-Montenvers Railway Station to the Montenvers Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). I was staying in Geneva, Switzerland, but spending the day in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (Chamonix) in France.
Europe is like that!
In the midst of a couple of rainy days in Geneva visiting with old friends before continuing further east, I booked myself an self-guided day trip bus trip to Chamonix. This included a ticket for the gondola up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi: a peak in the French Alps that affords wonderful views over the Mont Blanc massif and across to that legendary mountain itself. That portion of my day was exhilarating (see: On Top of the World), and I was so glad that I had finally made it there.
Also included in my day was a ticket for The Montenvers Train, which runs 20 minutes up the 5.1 km (3.2 mi) rack railway line from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). This is the largest glacier in France and the most visited. Once there, you can ride a gondola down to the ice-pack itself, and (sometimes) walk into an ice cave. Back in the 17th century, there was an imposing natural cave in the glacier’s terminal tongue. Since the mid-1900s, an artificial tunnel has been dug into the glacier to accommodate tourist visitors.
Unfortunately, like other glaciers around the world, the Mer de Glace is shrinking. Measured since the 1860s, it has lost 120 meters in thickness over a century at its terminus, and the leading edge retreats about 70m every year.
I’ve visited several glaciers in my time (eg: Perito Merino), and this one, with its surfeit of gritty moraine, could only be described as disappointing.
Still, the trip itself was well worth it – and it certainly highlights the effects of climate change!
.jpg) Mountaintops and Icicles
The views over the Mont Blanc massif from the Aiguille du Midi in the French Alps are just jaw-dropping (see: On Top of the World). .jpg) Autumn Colours in Chamonix
Back in the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc streets below, I walk past condominiums, vacation apartments, …  A Bee Hotel
… and hotels for people and insects. Hang Glider
There are blue skies overhead … Mont Blanc Peaks
… and jagged, snow-dusted peaks all around. La Maison Des Artistes – Artist’s Residence
Beautiful natural environments attract creative people. This complex: the Villa des Améthystes, was built in 1926 in the local architectural style. It is now a key location on the artistic scene. It features living and meeting spaces and a state-of-the-art recording studio. On the Bridge
I meet plenty of tourists and locals as I follow my GoogleMaps across town and over the tracks to the Montenvers Mer De Glace Train Station. Gare de Chamonix-Montenvers
The Railway Station de Montenvers, built between 1906 and 1908, was the departure station for the famous cogwheel train to the Mer de Glace glacier. On the Fence
Today, the railway carriages are entered through a simple gate. An attendant watches as our train departs. Overlooking the Winding River of Ice
When we get off the train, we arrive into an observation area overlooking the glacial moraine. Rocks and Gravel Télécabine de la Mer de Glace
Opened in 2024, the modern arrival station’s circular glass design provides panoramic views up the Mer de Glace glacier and over the alpine landscape. Ice Cave
The bubble lift (cable car) takes you down towards the ice – but due to the significant recession of the glacier, there are still over a hundred steps down to our lowest access point. We were unable to descend the remaining 100-or-so stairs to the cave itself because it had become unstable and was off-limits. Moon over Chamonix
With the restaurant closed for the season and the ice cave off limits, I make the best of it by reading all the travel-style posters and the information on glacier formation. Apparently, Mary Shelley was greatly inspired by the the Mer de Glace. After camping there with her husband in 1816, she called it ‘The most desolate place in the world’. Mer De Glace Montenvers
Every so often, the clouds lift, and the valley of ice is lit up. A Moment of Light
The Mont Blanc Massif behind the glacier catches the sun. Closed and Forlorn
The Refuge du Montenvers, a historic hotel and restaurant located at the Montenvers station, is closed for the season. Portrait of a Tradesman
Since I can’t explore the building, I chat with the tradesmen doing work on the site. Admiring the View Another Tradesman
Work is going on all around. Laying Concrete
A fresh walkway is going in next to the cogged train tracks. Chamonix and the Forêt Communale de Chamonix
As I go back down the hill, I admire the valley from the train. Tall Conifers – Taller Mountains La Locomotive Nº8
This is one of four high-pressure steam locomotives introduced to improve transport to the Mer de Glace glacier. It operated from 1927 to 1964, and stands in contrast to the new, sleek electric carriages. Mille-Feuilles in a Display Case
No one does pastries quite like the French! I stop into the Rose du Pont restaurant where the decor is as magnificent as the food. Water and Wine
I manage to resist the pastries, and order roasted vegetables – and of course, wine and water. Almost Abstract : Back to Geneva
We are treated to a magnificent, dreamy sunset as we motor along the smooth highway from France back to Switzerland. It was a wonderful day, and well worth the trip. As sad as it is to see the decline in the Mer de Glace, that is the world we are living in.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 02October2024
A Little Bit of Rain Forest in the City
We are in the city of Greater Sydney, but the giant bird’s-nest fern (Asplenium australasicum) lets us know we’ve left the high-rises behind. You are still in the city, but not quite!
There is a ringing of birdsong – and the roar of sirens. The rustling of skinks in the leaf-litter contrasts with the clanging of distant machinery. Wind whistles in the branches while a helicopter whirrs overhead.
There is something magical about city parks: oases of fresh, green calm amid the concrete and chaos.
I love my city breaks (eg: Snapshots of Sydney) and (almost!) never tire of walking the familiar downtown streets for the ballet, theatre, art galleries, or just the iconic sights.
But, it is also a pleasure to explore somewhere new. I recently had a couple of weeks in the city, and was determined to use my new Gold Opal (transport) Card, and to expand my experience of the city. After perusing AllTrails, I decided on the short (2.7km/1.7mi) and easy Wollstonecraft Loop. I also decided to rely on my iPhone – as the cameras were in for a clean.
My day started with a very late lunch followed by the scenic train trip across the Sydney Harbour Bridge, travelling from the nearby station to Sydney’s lower North Shore harbourside suburb of Wollstonecraft. The start of the official walk was directly outside Wollstonecraft Station.
Do come along!
The Train Across the Bridge
I haven’t crossed the bridge by train often – but it is always a delight. A Haven in Green and Purple
November is jacaranda season in Sydney. As soon as I leave the train station, I’m in Greendale Park, where the locals are enjoying their afternoon. Araucaria Pine – Norfolk or Bunya?
The park is home to some ancient, towering conifers. I know these are in the Araucariaceae plant family, and I think that they are Norfolk pine. Almost Abstract: Stringybark Eucalyptus Strength And Beauty
We haven’t quite left the city behind: concrete pillars stand strong in contrast to the African iris (Dietes grandiflora) that grow wild here. Berrys Creek
The next minute, I’m in a small, secluded glen, complete with tumbling water and warm-temperate rainforest vegetation. Bird’s Nest Fern – Asplenium Australasicum
I still get excited walking through sub-tropical forests: through the same plants I used to buy at great expense and nurture so carefully in my living room in the Northern Hemisphere! Steps Down
The circuit is mostly well-marked and well-maintained – but there are a lot of steps and some overhanging branches, so: “Watch your feet and watch your head!” Lush Rainforest Gully along Berry Creek “Riparian Zones”
North Sydney Council has done a great job of installing informative signposts along the way. Boulders
The vegetation and landscapes are remarkably varied. Where the Rainforest Meets the City
Soon, the tidal inlet of Gore Cove comes into view. Nature’s Artworks : Sydney Sandstone Living Textures : Staghorn Fern (Platycerium Superbum) Grass Tree – Xanthorrhoea
The coastal bushland along Gore Cove is rich with a variety of colours and textures. Flannel Flower – Actinotus Helianthi
I love these an Australian native wildflowers! Although they look like the alpine Edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale), they belong to a completely different plant family. Australian Water Dragon – Intellagama Lesueurii
These delightful little reptiles move quickly through the leaf litter – I’m not sure how many photos I took while watching this one! Spotted Gum – Corymbia Maculata Gore Cove
Greenwich, across the waters, was a major hub for 19th-century shipbuilding, brickmaking, and bulk petroleum distribution. Today these industries are being replaced and the area is becoming gentrified. Another Australian Water Dragon – Intellagama Lesueurii Old Steps
Further along, some old steps lead down to the water … Fisheries Dock
… where a variety of vessels are anchored and moored. Australian Brush Turkey (Alectura Lathami) on the Steps Eastern Rosella – Platycercus Eximius
The fence tells us we are back in the suburbs. If you squint, you can just see the rosella in the bush. Sydney Red Gum – Angophora Costata
The colourful rusty gum is endemic to eastern Australia. Berrys Creek
The circuit takes me back over the the creek … Nature’s Artworks : a Peeling Gum Tree
… and past more gorgeous eucalyptus trees. Crossing that Iconic Bridge
Before I know it, I am on the bridge and heading back to Sydney’s Central Business District.
The Wollstonecraft Loop is such a lovely little circuit – and the train trip across the harbour is a bonus.
I heartily recommend it.
Until next time,
Leave Only Footprints!
Pictures: 13November2025
Through the Layers of Time
On Cedar Island – also known as Cleopatra Island – in the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye, a traditional Turkish gulet sailing vessel is framed by the ruins of the small 13CE Kitsak Church, built when the Karia region was under the rule of the Eastern Roman Empire. Elsewhere on this little island, visible ruins of city walls, a small theatre, and a temple, date back to Ancient Greece and remind us that the region was once the property of Rhodes. There is something surreal about about dipping into waters where the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra once swam!
Just off the coast in Muğla Province in the southwestern corner of Türkiye there is a small island called Sedir Adası (Cedar Island). In the beautiful Gulf of Gökova, a southeastern arm of the Aegean Sea, this island was once a source of cedar. Today the island and its surroundings are covered with a dense, Mediterranean shrubland and olive and pine groves.
And ruins – Ancient Greek and Roman ruins.
Alternately called Cleopatra Island, it is said that Antony and Cleopatra had a love-nest here – and that the golden sands on the beach where they swam were brought in by ships from the Red Sea in North Africa on the orders of Mark Antony. It has also been said that this type of sand can only be found in Egypt (see: Visiting the Cleopatra Island).
Unfortunately, the claims are dubious. Contemporary research suggests that the tiny, pearl-like grains of sand – while exceptionally rare – are the result of continual erosion of the sandstone bed on site. And, this is not the only Cleopatra Beach in Türkiye!
But, much of the history is real. The ruins are real. And, the island and beach truly are beautiful – well worthy of Antony and Cleopatra. The sands are protected – with prohibitions against removing any, or even walking on it barefoot. Access to the shallow sea for swimming is via designated points.
The island is small: less than 1 km (0.62 mi) long and divided in the middle by a narrow isthmus. Remnants of the strong ashlar wall that once surrounded the original settlement are still standing just above the water-line on higher ground and within forested areas.
The whole island is managed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism like an open-air museum. I was happy to pay the modest entrance fee to explore the layers of history scattered around, and to admire the unique beauty. Join me!
Watch the Marker!
I was on a small-ship circuit in the wonderful Gökova Gulf in southwestern Türkiye. We had spent the morning sailing and swimming and kayaking (see: Sailing the Turquoise Waters). Mid-afternoon, our next destination: Sedir Adası (Cedar Island) came into view. “Kaptan Yarkin”
There are plenty of other gulets on the gulf, with their passengers taking advantage of the beautiful autumn weather. Ruins on Sedir Adası
As we get closer to the island the remains of what was once a significant Dorian settlement come into view. Tourist Boats in a Cove
Cedar Island is about 20 minutes from Çamlı Pier on the mainland, and plenty of tourist boats offer the trip. Cleopatra Island
This hot, dry landscape was once a trade and olive-growing hub. The 13CE Kitsak Church
From 129 BCE, the city here came under the rule of Rome – and remained so until the full domination of the Ottoman Empire in the first quarter of the 15th century. Wooden Walkway
A network of wooden walkways wind through scrub, past the ruins, and over the precious sands at the beach. Kleopatra Plaji – Cleopatra Beach
The depth of colour in the turquoise water changes with every shift in the light. Late Miocene Volcanic Rock
The walkway might be designed to protect the precious sand, but I’m pleased that it also protects me from that rough volcanic rock. Schooners in the Cove
Cleopatra Beach in on the north side of an isthmus; I have views through the Mediterranean scrub to boats anchored in a cove … Protected Waters
… and across grasslands to a shallow inlet. Kedreai Theatre
The theatre, which was built in the 4th century BCE, lies outside the city walls. It is not in particularly good shape, but I think the crumbling seats with the olives growing amongst them have far more charm than a renovated space. Posing in Kedreai Theatre Antik Tiyatro – Ancient Theatre
The theatre was large for the size of the settlement, with a capacity of 2500 people. Hellenistic Ruins and Wall
The ashlar wall that once surrounded the settlement is so well-built and durable that much of it stills stand against the sea. Archaeological Dig Team
Parts of the ruins are roped off, with teams of archaeologists carefully working through them. A Dry Landscape
Much of the old settlement has been reclaimed by nature. Hellenistic Ruins
The whole area is strewn with broken columns, capitals, and stones decorated with pictures and reliefs. Archaeologist at Work
It is very hot and silent as I wind my way through the ancient site. Apollon Kutsal Alanı – Sanctuary of Apollo
There was a temple here, dated to 2 BCE and thought have been dedicated to Apollo. Cleopatra’s Waters
Back at the beach, a gentle tide washes against the barriers protecting the golden sand. Natures Artworks : Pebbles and Shells on Cleopatra’s Beach
Looking at the rounded edges of the shells on the beach, it is easier to understand how the golden beach sands have been formed into tiny spherical grains of calcium carbonate (ooids) over thousands of years. Swimmers in Cleopatra’s Waters
Lots of visitors to the island take advantage of swimming in the shallow, silky waters off the beach. Cleopatra’s Waters With its golden sands, turquoise waters and fabulous mountain backdrop, it truly is a beautiful place.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 04October2022
Water Colours
The tiny island of Banda Api in Indonesia’s Banda Sea, is home to a few people, the tiny mosque of Masjid Nur At Taqwa, and Gunung Api, a highly active volcano. (04April2025) Imagine living in the shadow of an active volcano!
Gunung Api – or Fire Mountain – is a peak of about 640-650 m. (2100-2133 ft.) on the little island of Banda Api in the province of Maluku, Indonesia. The almost-circular island has a diameter only 3 kilometres (1.9 mi), and most of it rises steeply to the volcanic peak.
Banda Api is at the center of the Banda Islands, a volcanic group of ten small islands in the Banda Sea. Between 1586 and 1988 the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. The last eruption was on May 10, 1988: three people died, and the rest of the population of 1,800 islanders as well the majority of the residents of nearby Banda Neira were evacuated to Ambon, the capital and largest city in the province, some 200 kilometers away.
Today, the volcano is still classed as “highly active” and is subject to scrutiny (see: Global Volcanism Program. Smithsonian Institution). The scars on the land still show, only a small subset of the previous inhabitants have moved back, and trekking to the peak is not recommended.
My small ship, the Coral Geographer, was anchored for two days in the Zonnegat Channel, the narrow body of water that separates Banda Api from its much smaller, but more populated neighbour Banda Neira. I had made boat excursions to Banda Neira a couple of times (see: In the Historic Town of Banda Neira), and had snorkeled in the coral reef which had established itself on the lava flow (see: In and On the Banda Sea), but I had yet to visit the volcanic island itself.
Having had tantalising glimpses from the ship and from the tenders, I was really looking forward to exploring what I could of the island. Unfortunately, this was the sort of voyage where: if it could go wrong, it would. I got up early for a 0630am tender departure – but as soon as we landed on Banda Api and met our local guides, the skies opened up.
In spite of the heavy rain, I did manage to follow the narrow concrete path for a walk past typical simple houses, fine forests, tropical gardens, and the little mosque that I had been watching from my porthole. Somewhere along the way, I gave up on using the cameras, and the guides turned us back because they deemed the path ahead too slippery.
Ah well – a short visit is better than none!
Volcanic Landslip
Evidence from the most recent eruption on Banda Api is still visible on the mountainside. (03April2025) From My Window
Is it a porthole if it is square? My view of the little mosque on Banda Api had me keen to visit the next day. (03April2025) Gunung Api – Mount Api
From Fort Belgica on Banda Neira on our first day, I had great views over the volcanic island next door. (03April2025) Mosque on Banda Api
It was still dark when I went out to board my tender for the morning’s excursion. (04April2025) Morning Light on Banda Neira
As we set off in the tenders, morning light breaks through the wet clouds. (04April2025) Masjid Hatta-Syahrir
With around 7,000 inhabitants, Banda Neira is much more populous than Banda Api, and is home to more than one mosque. We get views of the waterfront as we make our way across the channel to Banda Api. (04April2025) Village Host
When we arrive on Banda Api, the villagers greet us on the shore and make ready to walk us through the small village. (04April2025) A Winding, Wobbly Path
Volcanic stone is incorporated into the narrow path that winds through the village clinging to the shoreline. (04April2025) Boats on the Shoreline
Life on the island is dependant on the surrounding sea. Outboard motors are the community’s lifeblood. (04April2025) Boats Reflected
I love how the light bounces off the wet boats. “Give Me Shelter”
Like in much of the tropics, housing is simple and made from a combination of new and recycled materials. Rose Apples – Syzygium Jambos
Common across Asia, rose apples are a tropical fruit in the myrtle family. The rose apples we used to buy in Thai supermarkets were clearly a different variant, as they were about the size of a pear. These were tiny! Papaya – Carica Papaya
You will never go hungry in the tropics! Between the sun, the rain and humidity, and the fertile soil, fruit trees grow fast and tall. Masjid Nur At Taqwa
In spite of the rain, I managed to make it as far as the tidy little mosque. Boats in the Rain Our Ship from the Shore
Our nearby vessel almost disappears into the tropical rainstorm. A Tidy Porch
We take refuge on the porches of kind residents. Rain like Icicle LED Lights In the Rear View
Soaked to the skin, we reboarded the tenders and made our way back to the ship. As I said, a short visit is better than none – and the hot shower in my cabin back on board was most welcome.
For, even in the tropics, rain is wet.
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 03-04April2025
A Smiling Welcome
We were only an hour outside Morocco’s northeastern city of Fes when we made a welcome stop at the Barrage Sidi Chahed, an artificial reserve surrounded by beautiful low mountains. I was sorry to say goodbye to Chefchaouen in northwestern Morocco; it had to be one of my favourite places in the country so far (see: Weekly Wanders Chefchaouen).
But, my small group was heading south, driving the roughly 200 km (124 mi) to Fes.
We broke the three and a half hour journey at a roadside viewpoint overlooking the Barrage Sidi Chahed (Sidi Chahed Dam) on the Oued Mikkès. The reservoir, backed by beautiful iron and copper-colored mountains, is primarily a water supply dam, but it also serves as a recreational area.
Fes is called the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, and it quickly became my new favourite. My room in a sprawling riad-style “palace” inside the medina (old city) was large and comfortable – although the four-poster bed was almost as wide as the room, making entry a bit tricky! I quickly discovered I had access to the rooftop terrace, which afforded wonderful views over the Old City and historic fortifications.
Our evening meal was at a home-turned-restaurant, where we were treated to a traditional chicken pastilla – a sweet and savoury concoction of layered pastry and meat, cooked with eggs, caramelised onions, lemon and sugared almonds, spiced with cinnamon, ginger, and saffron, and then topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Join me:
Local Agriculture
This is clearly farming country! Much of the water supply comes from the artificial lake created by the nearby Sidi Chahed dam on the Oued (River or Wadi) Mikkès. Lac (Lake) de Sidi Chahed
Place names are ongoing evidence of the long years of French “protection” in Morocco – which finally ended in 1956. Souvenir Stand
Where there is a view, there WILL be a souvenir stand. Souvenirs
This one featured woven basketry and Moroccan patterned ceramics … Traditional Handmade Keychains and Tassels
… as well as colourful tassels on hamsa (Hand of Fatima) charms. Barrage (Dam) Sidi Chahed
It is a beautiful and tranquil spot; the colours are quite magnificent. Making Juice
Clearly a fair bit of effort goes into pressing the pomegranates. Pomegranate Juice
The October afternoon is quite warm, so the salesmen does good trade with our small group. Mint Tea
When we arrive at Riad Houyam, our home for the next three nights, we are treated to a traditional welcome of mint tea. Outdoor Water Fountain
Like so many buildings in Morocco, our riad (also called Palais Houyam) features copious ornate tiling and an outdoor water tap. View over the Pool and Surrounds
The flat-top construction means there are plenty of upstairs terraces to explore, … View from the Rooftop
… and I can see as far as the ancient city fortifications on the hill: the 16th-century fortress Borj Nord and the 14th century Merenid (Marinid) Tombs. Our Host
Later in the day, we walk the short distance to Riad El Yacout, where we find more pillars and tiles. Our host tells us the history of the restored 16th century private residence, which now operates as a hotel and ‘restaurant’. First Course: Moroccan Salads
Chopped and seasoned cooked carrots, beetroot and other vegetables, olives, and rice are among the entrées. Moroccan Pastilla (Bastilla)
Dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, our main course is the celebrated chicken pie in filo pastry. My verdict: unusual! Preparing More Tea
Mama, the home-owner and pastilla-maker, comes out to be introduced, and to pour our mint tea. Old Streets of Fes
After dinner, we walk back to our riad … Narrow Streets
… through the dark streets of the old city. Full Moon over Fes
From the rooftop, I watch the moon rise over the old city. Daybreak
The next morning, I find a spot on the terrace to do my yoga. I was ready to sample more of the city – and after a scrumptious breakfast, that’s just what we did.
 Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 17October2024
Posted in Adventure,Food,Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portraits,food,landscape,Morocco,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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