.jpg) Young Male Lion Surveying his Domain
Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park – about 164 kilometres (102 mi) north of Nairobi – protects a number of vulnerable animal populations and part of a unique UNESCO-listed lake system. Nakuru City sits on its boundary. I was excited about my first day in East African parks. In the few hours we had spent driving around Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park, we had seen two of the Big Five and numerous other magnificent wild animals.
The centrepiece and raison d’être of the park, of course, is the lake, known for its abundant birdlife. The lake sits high in the Rift Valley, 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. Where there was once a single, deep freshwater lake, there is now a system of three relatively shallow alkaline bodies of water: Lakes Nakuru, Bogoria, and Elementaita. As a group (Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley), they were inscribed by UNESCO in 2011, and were called “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.
Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow, and in recent years the waters have been rising alarmingly. This has resulted in the displacement of animals and the destruction of property – including the submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure.
It also meant we had to keep an eye on the skies: afternoon rains could wipe out our access to already-marginal dirt roads.
Still, we enjoyed a lot of animal sightings (see: In Search of the Five #1) and, although I missed out on the fabled flamingos because the winds came up, I did add to my bird count.
I also added to my sightings of the Big Five and the Ugly Five!
Join me around the waters of Lake Nakuru:
.jpg) Scenes from a Land Cruiser
A dirt road – vulnerable to the rains and the rising waters – winds down to the lake and disappears. .jpg) Makalia Falls
Because of the recent rains, this little waterfall at the extreme southern end of the park is brown with runoff soil.  Common Warthogs – Phacochoerus Africanus
Nearby, we spot examples of the Ugly Five. Wallowing Warthogs (Phacochoerus Africanus)
The abundance of rain means there are large puddles everywhere, and the animals don’t have to congregate at the main waterholes to drink or cool off. Wallowing Buffalo
Not far away, another mud puddle is being appreciated by a large Cape buffalo (Syncerus Caffer Caffer). African Spoonbill – Platalea Alba
There are always special pictures I didn’t get! When we arrived at the edge of the lake, three flamingos were standing – perfectly reflected in the still waters. My driver, however, was determined to turn the vehicle around. By the time he did, the wind had come up to ruffle the surface of the water, the flamingos had scattered, and I had to content myself with other birds. Marabou Storks – Leptoptilos Crumenifer
These large birds certainly qualify for their place on the Ugly Five list! Black-Headed Heron – Ardea Melanocephala Flamingos and Great White Pelicans (Pelecanus Onocrotalus)
Lake Nakuru is known for its thousands – sometimes millions – of flamingos: lesser flamingos and greater flamingos. I had to settle for these three – and I’m not sure which kind they are. African Sacred Ibis – Threskiornis Aethiopicus Bald Eagle in a Fever Tree
I know: the eagle is almost invisible, but I love the elegant beauty of these trees. Olive Baboons – Papio Anubis
The baboons are quite at home on the direction signs. In the Foliage Baboon Crossing
The animals know they have right-of-way; they are completely unperturbed by our vehicle. Guides Passing
The drivers and guides all know each other, and always stop to compare notes about what they have seen and which animals are where. Lions in the Road
This was amazing! Three lionesses were trying to herd ten cubs onto the road. Herding Cats
The guides believed that because the rains were imminent, the mothers wanted their very-new cubs out of the undergrowth where they would get soaked and soggy. Make sure the volume is up on the following short clip: Young Male
This male was some distance away from the females and cubs, and is too young to likely have had anything to do with them. Defassa Waterbucks – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
A herd of large antelopes grazes among the acacias. Male Defassa Waterbuck – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
One young male watches us closely – or is he posing? Young males are usually chased out of the main herd as soon as they start developing horns, and group themselves into bachelor herds. Vervet Monkeys – Chlorocebus Pygerythrus Pelicans and Dead Trees
Back at the lake, the wind is rising and the rains are close. The effects of the rising water levels – attributed to climate change – are evident. The waters have increased the lake’s reach, swallowed park infrastructure, and killed vegetation. Yellow-Billed Storks – Mycteria Ibis
These large and long-legged African storks feed in the shallows and mudflats at the lake’s edge. Great White Pelicans – Pelecanus Onocrotalus
These massive waterbirds fascinated me; the are quite different in shape and colouring to the Australian pelicans on my estuary at home. The afternoon was turning to evening, and the impending rain threatened to turn dirt roads to mud. We bid farewell to this delightful park and pointed the Land Cruiser toward town and the evening’s accommodation.
The next day, we had an early morning start for the long drive to the legendary Maasai Mara National Reserve.
 Until then,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 11May2026
Posted in Africa,Animals,TravelTags: animals,Birdlife,birds,Kenya,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,waterbirds
The Big and the Beautiful
Many people go to Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park in search of the Big Five – which include the unpredictable and dangerous African (Cape) buffalo populating the background of this landscape. I personally prefer the graceful animals of the plains – like this elegant Grant’s zebra (Equus quagga boehmi), the smallest of the plains zebras. There is so much more to Kenya than just the animals.
But, as I was going there anyway, not taking advantage of the game parks seemed a waste – especially as it had been many years since I had visited an African national park (see: Etosha, Namibia).
I was signed onto a photographic trip to Kenya’s northern tribal villages (Watch this space!), and decided to arrive early and take myself on a game safari through some of East Africa’s National Parks. With the benefit of comparison sites, I found a ten-day safari through five parks, starting in Nairobi, Kenya at the crack of dawn, and ending in Arusha, Tanzania mid-afternoon.
The company I booked through provided no input on before- and after-arrangements, so I found an overnight accommodation close to the airport on Booking.com for the night before my 7am collection. I arrived into Nairobi, full of optimism – only to discover that my ‘taxi driver’ needed my GoogleMaps to find the hotel. When we finally arrived after a few loops around the airport expressway, the gate security staff at the complex had no idea what we were talking about, and the phone number I had been given wasn’t answering.
So – off to another hotel – and onto the task of sending messages to every number I could find for the Safari company to make sure the driver knew where to find me the next day.
After that inauspicious start, I was pleased to be collected on time in the morning – albeit into a grubby (but serviceable) Land Cruiser for the four-hour drive north-west: into the edges of the Rift Valley and almost to the equator.
Once there, we entered Lake Nakuru National Park.
This park is known for its abundant wildlife – especially the myriad of birds around the alkaline lake itself, which sits at 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. In 2011, the Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley, which includes Lake Nakuru – along with Lake Bogoria and Lake Elementaita – was inscribed by UNESCO as “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.
We had a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, and a full afternoon of exploring the muddy ‘roads’ before pulling into the night’s accommodation in the outskirts of Nakuru City.
Join me for Part One of our drive to and around Lake Nakuru:
Nairobi Sunrise
Because Nairobi sits just below the equator, sunset and sunrise from the top-floor restaurant of my modest hotel were both dramatic and quick. Overlooking the Rift Valley
One of my most vivid childhood memories is the televised program about how the Leakeys found the remains of the Australopithecine they named Lucy. This is the place: the cradle of humanity! Elephants at the Souvenir Stand
It feels wrong to be considering souvenirs on day one of a trip – but who could resist? Scenes from a Land Cruiser
The highway we are on is smooth enough, and full of vehicles – but modernity falls away at the verge. The shoulders and slip roads are all dirt and mud puddles, and shopfronts are mostly colourfully painted concrete blocks. Lake Nakuru Park Ranger on the Job
We finally reach the entrance to the National Park, where the rangers are well armed. Kenya has a “shoot-to-kill” poaching prevention strategy, which has greatly reduced the problem in the country. Superb Starling – Lamprotornis Superbus
I always get excited by my first animals – even when they are birds! These cheeky little beauties are so prevalent that they were almost picked to be Kenya’s national bird. Lake Nakuru
Once part of a deep freshwater lake, Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow. As a consequence, it has become a soda or alkaline lake which hosts a diversity of birdlife. We stopped for an early lunch at a picnic site overlooking the rising waters. Toilet Paper Plant – Plectranthus Barbatus
Our lunch stop gives me the chance to examine the local flora. These plants were traditionally used for toilet paper and sanitary products. The leaves are naturally antibacterial and have a fresh, herbal scent. Fever Tree – Vachellia Xanthophloea
Early European settlers blamed this tree – rather than the mosquitoes that shared the swampy ground it often grows in – for malaria. The thorns are deadly! African Daisies – Osteospermum Buffalo Grazing
The first of the Big Five we come across are the Cape buffalo. They are known for their unpredictable behaviour and their tendency to congregate near water sources. Cape Buffalo – Syncerus Caffer Caffer
Big-game hunters in the 19th-century named the most dangerous and difficult animals to hunt on foot the Big Five. Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
A red billed oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) feeds on the ticks that have made their home on an impala. More Buffalo Rhinos Resting
Lucky for me, my guide spotted another one of the Big Five – these rhinos in the shade of tree. White Rhinoceros – Ceratotherium Simum
Patience paid off! We waited in the Land Cruiser – and one of the often-elusive rhinos stood up and revealed themselves. Another Herd of Cape Buffalo
The buffalo were everywhere! The males are huge, weighing in at 500 to 900 kg (1102 to 1984 lbs). Buffalo in the Landscape Look Up!
The tall acacia trees are the perfect giraffe habitat. A Rothschild’s giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) happily browses on the thorny branches. An Aviat A-1 Husky
Not everyone drives to the park! Giraffes
A population of the near-threatened Rothschild’s giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) was moved to safety here in Lake Nakuru National Park from Western Kenya in 1977. Rothschild’s Giraffes
These beautiful giraffes are distinguishable by their white kneesocks and relatively light coat markings. Grant’s Zebra – Equus Quagga Boehmi
It was an unusually wet year, so the grass has grown rich and green. The animals are everywhere! Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
Female impala graze in herds scattered around the grasslands. A Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
One male impala dominates the harem, while a small band of ‘bachelors’ practice their fighting skills nearby – waiting for the opportunity to oust the alpha and take over. A Tangle of Giraffes
In spite of their near-threatened status, Rothschild’s giraffes seem to be doing well in the park. Male Giraffes
Everywhere I look, they stand out tall against the sky. Although we only saw two of the Big Five, we certainly experienced a rich array of beautiful and healthy-looking animals on our travels around the park.
Clouds were rolling in, and it was time to head back to the lake in search of waterbirds before our day was washed out – along with the roads!
More on that soon.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 11May2026
Posted in Africa,Kenya,TravelTags: animals,Kenya,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
The Coastline
The Gulf of Gökova, or Gulf of Kerme, has gone by a variety of names over its lifetime. This long (100 km; 62 mi), narrow, arm of the Aegean Sea between the Bodrum and the Datça Peninsulas in south-west Türkiye is marketed for its charming towns, untouched coves, archaeological ruins, and wonderful colours. Time loses its meaning when you are chugging slowly around Türkiye’s Gulf of Gökova.
Well – not entirely: the days are punctuated by wonderful meals and the occasional landfalls.
I was on a small gulet with nine other passengers and four crew, making various stops around the stunningly beautiful coastline in Türkiye’s south-west. One day, we docked on Cedar Island to visit the gorgeous Cleopatra Beach and wander among Doric ruins (see: Cleopatra was Here!).
The next morning saw us pulling anchor as the sun rose over Canak Bay (Çanak Koyu), in Karaca, on the north coast of the Datça Peninsula. As we breakfasted, our gulet backtracked to dock in Karacasöğüt Bay, Karaca Muğla. There, we went ashore to explore the little locality where the fancy yachts seem to outnumber the simple rural houses.
After that, it gets hazy, as the GPS on my phone and my itinerary didn’t line up – and many distant places have the same names. But, somewhere along the way, we crossed the gulf and anchored in Arpa Bükü Koyu (Barley Bay) near Çökertme Muğla. This region was ravage by the 2021 forest fires around the Mediterranean and Aegean seas (eg: Turkey battles coastal wildfires – in pictures). The evidence could still be seen in the deserted resorts and denuded hills.
Join me for some short shore excursions either side of the Gulf of Gökova.
The Yachts Line Up
The number of beautiful boats in the harbour belies the simple traditional housing on the hill. Karacasöğüt Bay is host to a number of sailing clubs. Checking out the Visitors
The beauty of an organised trip is that the docking formalities are not my problem! Anchored Vessels Below
Walking up the small, dead-end road behind the sailing academy, I have a good view over a few of the many vessels in the harbour. Pine Needles
Pine trees line the roadside. Bright Eyed Squirrel
I get excited when I find any wildlife! Squirrel in a Pine Tree
Türkiye is home to several squirrel species; I watched this one for a while, but couldn’t get a good enough view to decide which type it was. A Dusty Street Selfie
I head up into the settlement of Karaca Muğla, and stop to take a selfie in a convex mirror on a blind corner. A Fig Tree in the Garden
This is a small, rural community – and market gardens surround many of the houses. Red Berries
The drought-resistant broad-leaf pepper tree (Schinus terebinthifolius) is a popular landscaping ornamental around the Mediterranean. Rural Life in the Karaca Countryside
Drought resistant plants are a necessity in this hot and arid climate. Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Pomegranates say “Mediterranean” to me. They thrive in these hot, dry summers and tolerate poor soils. Virginia Creeper – Parthenocissus Quinquefolia
Deciduous vines, like these “false grapes”, are often grown on trellises and pergolas; they provide shade in summer and more light in winter. Cypress Vine – Ipomoea Quamoclit
In spite of the name, these fast-growing vines are thought to be native to the tropics in America. Boats at Anchor
After a coffee and a spot of shopping in the local Karaca market, I’m back on the deep blue waters. Sailboat At Anchor
There are endless green-treed coves; many with yachts or gulets anchored in them. Full Sail In the Gulf
The next morning, we – and other boats – are working our way across the water. From the Water
We cruise along the rugged terrain on the northern shore of the Gulf of Gökova, where the fires of 2021 charred the previously tree-covered mountains. Cut Wood
After pulling into the small cove at Arpa Bükü, Çökertme, I go for a walk up the hill. Nature’s Artworks: Thistles on the Roadside
It’s already October – but it is still hot, and the plants on the dusty track are past their best. High Noon over Arpa Bükü, Çökertme Riyekt Sarnici – Old Water Cistern
Up on the hill, I come across a structure – which GoogleMaps has pinpointed as a Historic Landmark. It turns out that this cistern dates back to the Ottoman period, when it was built to meet the region’s water needs. Çökerme Hills
Resort accommodation in the denuded hills has not yet come back to life. Stone Wall and Fire Damage Our Boat in Arpa Bükü
The dirt path leads me back down to the water. This would be our last cove on the beautiful Gulf of Gökova.
I rocked to sleep on the gentle waves, knowing I’d be back in Bodrum the next day.
 Until then,
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 05-06October2022
Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) in Nisga’a Provincial Park
This is a sight worth detouring for! On a blue-sky morning, it’s a beautiful and quiet place – albeit with a sad history. This lake in Northern British Columbia, Canada, was enlarged when lava flow from a volcanic eruption dammed the Tseax River. That same eruption wiped out two villages of Nisga’a people. I love a road trip!
It was my first trip back to Canada for several years – thanks to life, and Covid19, and stuff.
I had some painful business to deal with, so I had decided to reward myself afterwards with a long-dreamed-of trip to the magical islands of Haida Gwaii (see: Weekly Wanders Haida Gwaii). Haida Gwaii is not the easiest place to get to, and I spent some time in British Columbia’s northwest city of Prince Rupert (see: Butze Rapids) before catching the ferry for the rough, nine-hour-plus crossing of the Hecate Strait to get there.
The ferry back to the mainland after my week-long stay on the archipelago was an overnight trip (see: xxxx) which landed me back on the mainland before 6:00am.
Not a thing was open! I couldn’t get so much as a cup of coffee. I had a room reserved in Smithers, about four hours from the coast, but of course wouldn’t have access to that until later in the afternoon. I parked outside a closed fast-food outlet to tap into their wifi so I could plot my day.
My option was to drive …
While I was travelling, I heard stories about the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. Some time between 1668 and 1778, the Tseax Cone (the Nisga’a volcano) in the Nass Valley erupted, wiping out two villages and killing about 2,000 Nisga’a people. It was Canada’s deadliest volcanic disaster – and one which, until recently – I’d never heard of.
So, when I reached Terrace on the Yellowhead Highway, in stread of heading directly to Smithers where I was scheduled to meet an old friend later in the day, I turned left and detoured further north on the winding Nisga,a Highway through the scenic Kitsumkalum Valley.
Join me on some northern roads.
Highway 16, Prince Rupert, BC
The roads are quiet and a pleasure to drive this far north. Roadside Workers
Most of the people I come across outside of the city are there to do a job: I don’t know what service these men belonged to, but I liked the colour of their vests against the endless rain-forest green. Moments of Wonder – Dandelions Prince Rupert Dock
The small city of Prince Rupert is essentially a port: serving as the land, air, and water transportation hub for British Columbia’s North Coast. Eagle Bluff Bed & Breakfast Cow Bay
Prince Rupert has the dubious honour of being Canada’s wettest city. The wooden buildings are brightly painted to ward off any potential wet-weather gloom. Waterfront
The shops and restaurants along the waterfront are well worth a wander. Be warned though: we are along way north and quite remote here: a technical glitch had all ATMs, wifi, and eftpos inoperational for a large proportion of my stay. Cash only, please! Bear Sculpture
This wonderful piece is an example of Tsimshian mortuary art used to store a box with the deceased’s ashes. The bear is a revered spirit animal in Northwest Coast cultures. Tsimshian Bentwood Box
Made from one piece of wood that is steamed at three corners and bent around to form a box, these beautiful creations were used for both symbolic and practical purposes. Chief’s Headdress Apron and Leggings
Tlingit Shaman’s Rattle
Northern British Columbia is home to several diverse First Nations, including the Haida, Tlingit, Nisga’a, Tahltan, Gitxsan, Wet’suwet’en, and Carrier (Dakelh) peoples. Anget Pole of Ninstints
Outside, there is a full-size copy by William Jeffrey of a famous family pole from the now-abandoned village of SGang Gwaay (Ninstints) in Haida Gwaii. Into the Sunrise along the Yellowhead Highway
The ferry from Haida Gwaii sets me onto the road east before 6am. … and then the Rain Returned … My first Moose!
Well, my only moose. I’ve never seen one in the wild. This beautiful mural entitled Swamp Donkey was painted in 2021 by artist Casey Braam on the building next to the Terrace Tim Horton’s – where I parked to get wifi. Nisga’a Highway
I backtracked, and pointed the car north on Highway 113, where even the ongoing rain could not diminish the mountains in the distance. Reflections in Lava Lake
Fortunately, the skies cleared when I reached the Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) Picnic Area. The Visitor Information Centre
The design on this traditional-style longhouse in Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park was painted by Nisga’a artist Jaimie Davis and depicts Gwax Ts’agat (the super being). Unfortunately, the centre was closed. Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds
Part of the lava flows that buried the two Nisga’a villages some time around 1700 are accessible from the road. Walking trails provide restricted access – but I wasn’t going to venture far without breakfast or coffee! Even the local museum was not open for another hour. White Water and the Drowned Forest
I turned the car around – stopping at a point along the Tseax River, where the waters roar past taking fallen timbers with them – and made the resolution to return here one day, with more time. Small Town – Big Sky!
Late afternoon (after several long-awaited meal-stops!), I made it into Smithers. The magnificent snow-capped Hudson Bay Mountain dwarfs the town. My Mate the Mountain Goat
I’m a capricorn born in the year of the goat, so goats always grab my attention. The Babine Mountain Goat in Smithers is named for the nearby Babine Mountains Provincial Park, where a healthy population of these animals reside. A Rare BlueSky!
Rocky Mountain goats (Oreamnos americanus) are endemic to these remote and rugged mountainous areas of western North America. I’ve only ever seen a few in my life – high above me in the mountains. Wild Women Walking
The next morning, I follow my friend as she follows a bear trail up the hill behind her house in Telkwa – a small village near Smithers. Dance for me Pretty Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa)!
Fortunately, we do not cross paths with the bear. Western Columbine – Aquilegia Formosa
I love columbine – and these natives are beautiful! Tiny Treasures : Sticky Cinquefoil (Drymocallis Glandulosa) Those Mountains
At the top of the hill, there are uninterrupted views over Tyhee Lake to the surrounding mountains. What a gorgeous spot to stand and reminisce about long-ago high-school days! It is amazing the details we remembered after all these years.
But, it was time for me to move on – and follow the roads southwest.
Until Next Time!
Pictures: 07June2022 and 18-19June2022
On the Rails
A charming little train with a sleek, modern exterior and traditional-looking wooden-slat seats inside follows electric, self-propulsion rack-railway tracks through the subalpine forests and up the steep climb from the Chamonix-Montenvers Railway Station to the Montenvers Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). I was staying in Geneva, Switzerland, but spending the day in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (Chamonix) in France.
Europe is like that!
In the midst of a couple of rainy days in Geneva visiting with old friends before continuing further east, I booked myself an self-guided day trip bus trip to Chamonix. This included a ticket for the gondola up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi: a peak in the French Alps that affords wonderful views over the Mont Blanc massif and across to that legendary mountain itself. That portion of my day was exhilarating (see: On Top of the World), and I was so glad that I had finally made it there.
Also included in my day was a ticket for The Montenvers Train, which runs 20 minutes up the 5.1 km (3.2 mi) rack railway line from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). This is the largest glacier in France and the most visited. Once there, you can ride a gondola down to the ice-pack itself, and (sometimes) walk into an ice cave. Back in the 17th century, there was an imposing natural cave in the glacier’s terminal tongue. Since the mid-1900s, an artificial tunnel has been dug into the glacier to accommodate tourist visitors.
Unfortunately, like other glaciers around the world, the Mer de Glace is shrinking. Measured since the 1860s, it has lost 120 meters in thickness over a century at its terminus, and the leading edge retreats about 70m every year.
I’ve visited several glaciers in my time (eg: Perito Merino), and this one, with its surfeit of gritty moraine, could only be described as disappointing.
Still, the trip itself was well worth it – and it certainly highlights the effects of climate change!
Mountaintops and Icicles
The views over the Mont Blanc massif from the Aiguille du Midi in the French Alps are just jaw-dropping (see: On Top of the World). Autumn Colours in Chamonix
Back in the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc streets below, I walk past condominiums, vacation apartments, … A Bee Hotel
… and hotels for people and insects. Hang Glider
There are blue skies overhead … Mont Blanc Peaks
… and jagged, snow-dusted peaks all around. La Maison Des Artistes – Artist’s Residence
Beautiful natural environments attract creative people. This complex: the Villa des Améthystes, was built in 1926 in the local architectural style. It is now a key location on the artistic scene. It features living and meeting spaces and a state-of-the-art recording studio. On the Bridge
I meet plenty of tourists and locals as I follow my GoogleMaps across town and over the tracks to the Montenvers Mer De Glace Train Station. Gare de Chamonix-Montenvers
The Railway Station de Montenvers, built between 1906 and 1908, was the departure station for the famous cogwheel train to the Mer de Glace glacier. On the Fence
Today, the railway carriages are entered through a simple gate. An attendant watches as our train departs. Overlooking the Winding River of Ice
When we get off the train, we arrive into an observation area overlooking the glacial moraine. Rocks and Gravel Télécabine de la Mer de Glace
Opened in 2024, the modern arrival station’s circular glass design provides panoramic views up the Mer de Glace glacier and over the alpine landscape. Ice Cave
The bubble lift (cable car) takes you down towards the ice – but due to the significant recession of the glacier, there are still over a hundred steps down to our lowest access point. We were unable to descend the remaining 100-or-so stairs to the cave itself because it had become unstable and was off-limits. Moon over Chamonix
With the restaurant closed for the season and the ice cave off limits, I make the best of it by reading all the travel-style posters and the information on glacier formation. Apparently, Mary Shelley was greatly inspired by the the Mer de Glace. After camping there with her husband in 1816, she called it ‘The most desolate place in the world’. Mer De Glace Montenvers
Every so often, the clouds lift, and the valley of ice is lit up. A Moment of Light
The Mont Blanc Massif behind the glacier catches the sun. Closed and Forlorn
The Refuge du Montenvers, a historic hotel and restaurant located at the Montenvers station, is closed for the season. Portrait of a Tradesman
Since I can’t explore the building, I chat with the tradesmen doing work on the site. Admiring the View Another Tradesman
Work is going on all around. Laying Concrete
A fresh walkway is going in next to the cogged train tracks. Chamonix and the Forêt Communale de Chamonix
As I go back down the hill, I admire the valley from the train. Tall Conifers – Taller Mountains La Locomotive Nº8
This is one of four high-pressure steam locomotives introduced to improve transport to the Mer de Glace glacier. It operated from 1927 to 1964, and stands in contrast to the new, sleek electric carriages. Mille-Feuilles in a Display Case
No one does pastries quite like the French! I stop into the Rose du Pont restaurant where the decor is as magnificent as the food. Water and Wine
I manage to resist the pastries, and order roasted vegetables – and of course, wine and water. Almost Abstract : Back to Geneva
We are treated to a magnificent, dreamy sunset as we motor along the smooth highway from France back to Switzerland. It was a wonderful day, and well worth the trip. As sad as it is to see the decline in the Mer de Glace, that is the world we are living in.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 02October2024
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