A Valley of Tea With water in the valleys, tea and spices in the mountains, and colourful people everywhere, Munnar – a Hill Station in Kerala, India – really is as beautiful as they promise.
The town of Munnar, in Kerala, South India, was once a popular summer resort for members of the British Raj. Sitting high (1,600 metres – 5,200 feet) in the Western Ghats, this hill station offered cooler summer temperatures than those in the hot and humid coastal cities.
Tea plantations were established here in the late 1800s, and the bushes still dominated the landscape and the local economy.
I had a week’s stay in a modest ‘resort’ above Munnar where I was the only ‘foreigner’. There was no information about the local area in the lobby or in my room. In spite of English’s designation as an official language in much of India, only a few of the staff in the complex spoke it with any confidence.
Still, the wifi worked: I asked Google, AllTrails, and TripAdvisor, and hunted out things to do and places to go on my own. After a few days of just wandering around the neighbourhood (see: Everyday Life in the Tea Plantations), I organised for a driver to take me to nearby Anayirangal Dam.
Opened in 1965, this earthen dam on the Panniyar River was built for power generation. The resulting lake, Anayirangal, was named for the elephants (anay) who frequently come down (irankal) from the adjacent jungle to drink from the waters (see: Kerala Tourism: Munnar). The lake and surrounds have become a popular place for boating and picnics.
I saw no elephants, and I almost missed the only available boat! The vessel had been hired for a large group on a work outing; fortunately, my driver negotiated with them and they allowed me to join them for their tour.
Having a group of friendly women to chat with as we cruised gently on the waters, surrounded by forest on one side and by a sprawling section of the ubiquitous Tata Tea Plantation on the other, made for a lovely afternoon.
On the trip back to the resort, we drove through town itself and stopped at one of the spice gardens, where – for a small fee – I was reintroduced to the many spices grown for harvest at these altitudes. Our last stop before returning home was at a chocolate factory.
Join me for a pleasant afternoon in the hills around Munnar:
Family Group It is not uncommon for work groups to make weekend excursions with their family members. We chat happily together as our canopied boat chugs across the dam.
Anayirankal Dam The Western Ghats rise up steeply from the jungle at the water’s edge.
Portrait of a Young Woman We didn’t have much language in common, but people happily posed for my cameras.
Laundry on the Line Domestic life continues at the edges of the water.
An Earthen Dam You can just see the dam, floating into the haze on the horizon. Built from compacted soil, clay, and rock, earthen dams are popular in India because of their cost-effectiveness and flexibility.
Best Friends These women grew up together, went to school together, and now work in the same office.
Mother and Daughter The women are especially pleased to have daughters who are similar in age: making another generation of friendship.
Kayaks on Anayirankal Dam Close-up to the dam, the earthen texture is clearly visible.
Men on on the Shore
People in the Park After taking leave of the boat and my fellow passengers, I walk up the hill overlooking the dam.
People in the Watchtower A visiting couple takes advantage of a romantic moment.
Overlooking Anayirankal Dam It’s a beautiful view from the watchtower.
Walking in a Temple Procession There are so many Indian Gods that almost any day is a holy day! Thaipusam is especially important: it commemorates the victory of the Hindu God Murugan over the demon Surapadman.
The Thaipusam Kavadi To mark Thaipusam, devotees often pull or carry physical burdens as a symbolic act of sacrifice. This is intended to reduce spiritual debt. In this case, the kavadi, or burden, is the decorated cart.
Kratom Plant – Mitragyna Speciosa I can’t count how many spice-garden tours I have done over the years – but I always learn (or remember!) something new. The kratom is a tropical evergreen tree native to Southeast Asia and used to treat pain, diarrhea, and fatigue.
Coffea Arabica Plenty of coffee is grown in India. It is hard, however, to find a cup of brew anywhere. At my ‘resort’, it was almost impossible!
Coffee Berries
Cacao Pod on a Theobroma Cacao Tree
Nutmeg – Myristica Fragrans Originally endemic to the Maluku Islands in Indonesia, nutmeg was central to some horrific colonial history as part of the global spice trade.
Workers in a Truck Bed Back in the streets of Munnar, life goes on!
Making Chocolates My last stop of the day was at the Munnar Chocolate Factory, where I watched nuts being carefully hand-placed into chocolates.
Chocolate Maker I get a shy smile from the maker of the chocolates from behind her paper mask and protective glass screen.
Naturally, I went home with some chocolate.
If only I could have found some decent coffee to go with it!
Dan Sullivan in Blue It seems fitting that a blue spotlight shines on award-winning Australian blues-and-roots singer and harmonica player, Dan Sullivan, as he joins the band Brothers on stage at the Thredbo Blues Festival in the Australian mountains.
Is there anything as joyful as being in a room with live music that is being performed by musicians who love what they are doing?
I had the pleasure of attending the 31st Thredbo Blues Festival last month. It started on a Friday evening in January, and continued through to late Sunday night. I’ve attended this delightful little festival several times before (see: Thredbo Blues), and always enjoy it – even though I never last the full distance!
Part of the reason I love it is the venue: the performances take place in different restaurants, bars, and public spaces across the charming village of Thredbo, high in the Snowy Mountains of Kosciuszko National Park. In winter, Thredbo is one of Australia’s premier ski resorts. In summer, the alpine slopes are covered in endemic wildflowers, and populated by hikers and mountain-bike riders.
This year, unfortunately, it rained.
A lot.
So much so that I didn’t get out on any of my usual hikes, and all the daytime music got moved indoors.
Still, the music was great – and I further amused myself by attempting to make pictures of the performers.
When it comes to the success (or otherwise) of the results, the usual caveats apply: the lighting is brutal – especially in the daytime with darkened venues contrasting wildly with the rain-washed brightness outdoors; stage lights play havoc with skin-tones and with the white-balance on the cameras; and many of the venues are not built for music, so the sound can be questionable, and moving around to find lines-of-sight for pictures is challenging-to-impossible.
Still: it keeps me engaged. And, I’m pleased with some of the results.
Enjoy a few musical portraits of a selection of Australia’s foremost blues performers:
Sweet Felicia and The Honeytones The performance space in the Schuss Bar has been changed: not very successfully in my view. The musicians no longer have a stage! Still, it was early, and Sweet Felicia and The Honeytones were amongst the first performers – meaning I could get in close for a few shots.
Sweet Felicia Even though this accomplished and award-winning bassist and vocalist has been playing her sassy brand of swing and blues over a career spanning 45 years, this was my first exposure to her. She’s definitely a new favourite.
Steve Edmonds Always a joy to watch and to listen to, Steve Edmonds took lead guitar for the Honeytones.
Kate Lush Band Even without a mountain hike, you are guaranteed to get your steps in at Thredbo: our next stop, the Keller Bar, is two flights of stairs down from the Schuss Bar. The Kate Lush Band had the audience on their feet.
Dave Hole How on earth was I not familiar with this guy? Back upstairs in the Kosci Room, Dave Hole demonstrates the effortless mastery that launched him into the international scene back in 1991.
Dave Hole on Slide He is widely regarded as one of the best slide guitarists playing today.
Mal Eastick We walk across to the Lounge Bar, where one of Australia’s finest blues/rock guitarists, the well-known Mal Eastick, is leading his new line-up.
John Tweed Mal Eastick’s Tone Masters was a mix of musicians I’ve seen in many different iterations over the years – including John Tweed on keyboard.
Frank Sultana and Mike Rix I stayed in the Lounge Bar – because I had a good spot AND because I had seen Frank Sultana before. I was looking forward to Brothers, his new lineup formed in 2025 on a working trip across blues country in the southern USA.
Dan Sullivan They did not disappoint! Each of the musicians in Brothers have had illustrious solo careers.
On Harmonica with Brothers Dan Sullivan lead the band Tomcat Playground for a decade.
Nathan Beretta (Brett) with Brothers Nathan Beretta’s band Blue Eyes Cry is multi-award-winning.
Owen Campbell We might have called it an early night on Friday, but we were back before noon on the Saturday to catch another of my favourites in the Kosci Room.
Owen on Slide Billed as one of Australia’s premier alternative blues/rock performers, Owen Campbell slides into country-zone periodically. His melodic story-telling moved me to buy a CD the first time I saw him.
Sound Table The sound engineers who support the festival do a great job in what has to be difficult circumstances!
Liza Ohlbeck The weather was still awful, but in spite of the notification saying that performances slated for Merritts Mountain House were to be moved into the village, the Women in Blues Revue at the top of the Merritts Gondola was in full swing when I got there.
Powerhouse Vocals Liza Ohlbeck is a festival-favourite, with her rich blues/jazz/gospel vocals.
Andrea Marr Another powerhouse vocalist I’ve enjoyed many times in the past, Andrea Marr is one of the originators of the popular Women in Blues Revue.
Anna Scionti I loved singer/songwriter/guitarist Anna Scionti when I have seen her at Thredbo: she has some great stories and quite a collection of interesting guitars.
Women in Blues Review The Review lineup on the day featured Andrea Marr, Liza Ohlbeck, and Anna Scionti, and included John McNamara and Shane Gilbert on guitars, Andrew Fry on bass, and Greg Ohlbeck on drums.
Merritts Gondola Hunger drove me back down the hill to the village, where I would find a late lunch …
The English Tower through the Ramparts Built by the Knights Hospitaller starting in 1402, the Castle of St. Peter in Bodrum, Türkiye, features five main towers: the English, French, German, Spanish, and Italian. Each tower was designed, built, and paid for by the langue, the respective countries to which the administrative division belonged.
It was surreal: on a hot and still afternoon in the southwest of Türkiye, I was walking in the footsteps of the Crusaders.
The Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem, commonly known as the Knights Hospitaller, have a long history. Formed early in the 12th century, their mission was to strengthen religious (Catholic) devotion, to provide charity for the poor, and to care for sick, poor, or injured Christian pilgrims to Jerusalem.
All these centuries later, the descendants of this order are recognised as the St John Ambulance.
Back in the 1120s and 1130s, the Order of Saint John was militarized. Following the reconquest of Jerusalem and the Holy Land by Islamic forces in 1302, the Hospitallers were headquartered on the island of Rhodes. Wanting a stronghold on the mainland, they identified a site in what is now Bodrum, Türkiye.
I had flown into Bodrum following a few wonderfully restful days in Istanbul (see: Bosphorus Dreaming), and had a free day before joining a gulet cruise into the Gulf of Gökova (watch this space!). I figured a walk was in order before I was confined to a small sailing vessel.
So, there I was: within sight of the Mediterranean, standing among stones quarried and laid over 600 years before.
On a photographic note: I opted to leave the cameras packed and ready for their move later in the day. These photos are all taken on my old iPhone12Pro.
Sunset on Bodrum Castle A short walk from my room led me to the waterfront Churchill Kafe, where I enjoyed something Turkish and watched the sun go down over the Castle of St. Peter, commanding its promontory in Bodrum Harbour. (30September2022)
Through the Ramparts and Into the Light Like in any good medieval castle, the passages leading to the gates were designed to be full of twists and turns to confound any intruder.
Lines And Curves and Ramparts Open passageways inside meant that potential assailants couldn’t find cover from any arrows, stones, or heated projectiles hurled upon them.
The Castle and the Sea I, too, was confused as I walked around the fortress with absolutely no sense of orientation!
Mounted Guns The Knights had a powerful naval fleet, but in 1494 they started to fortify the walls facing the mainland against land-based cannons.
Pigeons Roosting in Medieval Walls
Castle Crest Every contributor to the fortress has their crest inscribed somewhere on the walls. According to a nearby plaque: “This group of coats of arms was carved in 1496…. The left and right coats of arms belong to Nicole da Incisa. In the middle is the coat of arms of the Grand Master Pierre ‘Aubusson’s united with that of the Order.”
Through the Ramparts Regular windows around the thick walls give us views over the harbour.
Into the Courtyard The crest over this passageway is the coat of arms of Giovanni Battista Orsini.
More Coats of Arms There are over 250 coats of arms placed by the knights around the fortress. The two outer shields here are the coat of arms of the Lusignan dynasty (1192–1489), which ruled the Kingdom of Cyprus. The central shield features the cross of the Knights of the Order of St. John (Hospitallers).
Inside Looking Out
Ancient Chapel / Mosque The chapel inside the fort was built around 1407. When the fort was taken over by the Islamic Ottoman Empire in 1523, the chapel was converted to a mosque and the minaret was added.
Ancient Carian Sphinx Many of the stones used in the castle’s construction were taken from the nearby Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the courtyard, there are several recovered items from nearby sites, like this ancient Anatolian artifact from the Sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda.
Towers all Around
Ancient Pottery Wine Amphorae The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology has displays of artefacts recovered from shipwrecks off the Turkish coast scattered around the castle.
Corinthian Column inside Bodrum Castle
Stone Stairs to the Tower The complex was well-signposted, but I have forgotten which tower I was heading for at this point.
The Uluburun Shipwreck (14th Century BCE) This bronze-age vessel is one of two ancient shipwrecks that have been reconstructed within the museum.
Ramparts and Tower Beyond the ramparts, there are views over the city and the Aegean Sea.
Flag at the Top The Turkish flag flies atop the French Tower.
Inside the Castle Renovations are ongoing.
More Steps : More Crests
Ancient Minaret over the Trees
On A Gulet – a Turkish Sailboat Later that afternoon, after I had parked my belongings in my room in the gulet moored in Bodrum Harbour, I saw that the castle was still keeping watch over us.
It seemed only fitting,
After all, for over a century, St. Peter’s Castle was the second-most important fortress under the Order of St John, serving as a refuge for Christians and others across Asia Minor.
Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s Order of St John provides first aid and medical responses to anyone within their catchments.
Women in a Blue Street Autumn rain washes the narrow, winding streets in the medina – the old city – of Chefchaouen: a blue-washed delight in Morocco’s northwestern Rif Mountains.
I loved Chefchaouen.
I never quite managed to pronounce it though!
The name of this charming little city in the mountains of northwestern Morocco comes from an Arabic word chef meaning “to look” and a Berber word echaouen meaning “antlers” or “horns”; the term refers to the two most prominent mountain peaks that overlook the city, rising up like the horns of an animal.
The fortified city was founded in 1471 by a distant descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad. It was intended as a defence against potential attacks by Portuguese invaders. In addition to local Berbers, the original settlers were predominantly Andalusi Muslims and Sephardic Jews who were escaping the Iberian Peninsula during and after the SpanishReconquista.
Today, Chefchaouen is known as the Blue Pearl of Morocco.
Most of that Jewish population left for Israel when it was formed in 1948, but the practice of painting the buildings in the medina blue lives on. Some say the colour repels mosquitoes. Some maintain that the wash of blue and white keeps the houses cooler in summer months.
There are several other possible explanations. What is known for sure is that the colourful streets attract artists and tourists. So, the local government hands out paint brushes to inner-city residents annually to help keep Chefchaouen looking fresh.
Join me for a rainy walk through Morocco’sBlue Pearl:
People Love Chefchaouen! My small group and I drove into the city from Meknes, visiting Volubilis enroute (see: Roman Ruins in Morocco). Naturally, we stopped briefly at the Selfie Spot overlooking the city.
In a Decrepit Courtyard On an early-morning walk from our hotel in the medina, we stopped into a traditional Andalusian courtyard: decaying, but still beautiful.
Plaza Uta el Hammam Our walk took us through through the central plaza. The heart of the medina is shady, cobbled, and surrounded by mountains, cafes, restaurants, and history.
Chefchaouen Rooftops Rooftops rise all around against a backdrop of mountain and low-hanging cloud.
Tourists in Plaza Uta el Hammam It is raining – but softly – just enough to wash the cobbles and brighten the landscape.
A Water Fountain Everywhere you go in Morocco, you will see beautiful public fountains. Naturally, in Chefchaouen, they are blue!
Arched Doorway Intricately patterned floor tiles are another common feature of Moroccan design.
Wall Art Mariano Bertuchi (1884-1955) was a Spanish painter from Granada who painted the landscapes of Morocco and scenes of daily life. He spent a lot of time in this region – relocating to Tetouan just an hour and a half north of here, where he eventually died.
Wall Bracket
Colourful Stairway The laneways are narrow, colourful, and WET!
Steep Stairs and Wall Art Stairs wander off in all directions, and every shade of blue is represented in the paint.
Restaurant el Cielo Tourism has given the little city a boost.
Once an Andalusian Mosque … Built some time between 1540 and 1550, this was once the site of a mosque. I’m not sure what the building is used for today.
A Colourful Corner
Into the Clouds Stairs lead off in all directions.
Water from the Rif Mountains The Ras al-Ma’(Ras El Maa) or Head of the Water is located here, just east of the medina. This natural mountain spring was the original water source for the city.
Ras al-Maa – Head of the Water Particularly valued in the heat of summer, the mountain waters tumble over boulders as they make thier way down hill.
Visitors Leave Their Mark Everybody loves Chefchaouen!
More Blue Stairs
Hotel Daryakout The local boutique hotels compete with each other for Andalusian charm.
Street Lamp
Medieval Alleyway
Another Colourful Staircase
City Water Fountain Our walking tour around the little city takes us back to Plaza Uta el Hammam, where everyday life continues.
Said Our engaging guide – who is wearing a blue scarf in honour of the city – sets us loose for the rest of the day …
In the Laneway … and I wander back through the quiet medina to my room.
Naturally, I got out again later to explore this charming city further – watch this space.
Rowers on a Longboat These war canoes – called kora kora or coracora – are traditional naval vessels in the Indonesian province of Maluku. They were once used to carry men on raids for plunder and/or slaves. Fortunately for us, this one has been sent out to greet our ship as we pass through the Zonnegat Channel and enter the Banda Caldera.
We were in the waters of the fabled Spice Islands of Indonesia.
Today, this archipelago is home to countless islands covered in thick rainforests. The landscape is scarred by years of volcanic eruptions and the underwater-scape comprises stunningly pristine coral reefs populated by every colour fish you can think of.
The Banda Islands are not particularly easy to access, and village infrastructure is patchy. In the late 1990s, sectarian violence in nearby Ambon spilled over, damaging the then-fledgeling tourism industry. We, however, were in our own floating ‘hotel’: the Australian-registered small ship the Coral Geographer. So, we could enjoy visits to the very different local communities while being largely insulated from under-developed facilities.
From the early 16th century, the Banda Islands were home to incredible colonial bloodshed. This was thanks to the European desire for nutmeg and mace, which grew nowhere else in the world. The islands were taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, and then the Dutch arrived in 1599. The Dutch monopolised the local spice trade well into the 17th century. More on all that at some other time – when I make landfall on Banda Neira itself.
Our ship had traveled southeast overnight – traversing the Banda Sea from Saparua (see: Aboard a Ship in the Ceram and Banda Seas). Early in the morning, we were all out on the foredeck of our vessel to enjoy the kora kora canoes as they welcomed us with their rhythmic drumming and guided us into the banda – an Indonesian word derived from Persian, meaning “port” or “haven.”
Then, after a sumptuous breakfast, we were off to snorkel (or dive) on the extensive coral reef that has built itself in the lava flow that runs off Banda Api. On this occasion, my waterproof phone cover failed me completely, and all my pictures are blurry. So, I’ve included a couple taken by crew with their proper underwater housings.
Join me on and in the waters of the caldera around the Banda Islands:
Early Morning Fishermen Fishing is a big industry across the islands. The men are out early to cast their heavy nets from their wooden longboats.
Waiting for the Welcome We are all out on deck early for the kora kora. Like many others, I had my coffee in hand.
Towards Banda Neira The eponymous town that is the nerve-center of the island of Banda Neira comes into view as we work our way through the channel.
Landslip on Banda Api Between 1586 and 1988, the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. Evidence from the 1988 eruption, which killed three people, is still visible.
Mosque on Banda Api The 1800 islanders resident at the time of the last volcano were evacuated, but a small community has moved back.
Welcome Longboat Finally! The welcome canoes – one either side of us – come into view.
Boats in the Harbour Our kora kora welcome boats are not the only vessel in the little harbour.
Keeping Time A drummer on the boat keeps the rhythm for the rowers. He throws us a cheeky smile from the prow.
Paddlers in the Stern These boats are about ten metres (33 feet) long and very narrow. They sit low, and weigh about four tons.
Fishing Boat The wooden fishing boats are laden with heavy nets as they head out to open waters.
Lima Saudara – Five Brothers The men smile and wave as they pass our vessel.
Boats in the Harbour
Kora Kora War Canoe The steep, jungle-clad hills around the water-filled caldera rise up on Banda Neira, and the longboat races towards the village.
Crew Member at the Prow The cruise staff keep a sharp lookout …
Working the Anchor … and once they are happy with the ship’s location …
Anchor Winch … the anchor is dropped into position.
NMI: Snorkeling in the Lava Flow Crew-member Jess got a shot of me engaging in a lazy snorkel in the reef off Banda Api.
NMI: Fish in the Lava Flow Jess also caught a striated surgeonfish (Ctenochaetus striatus) and a Moorish idol (Zanclus cornutus) – just two of the many species in the waters here.
From My Window The little mosque on Banda Api beckons through my porthole. I was looking forward to a visit the next morning.
Sesame Crusted Tuna Steak with Nori and Rice Shipboard life revolves around meals!
We were surrounded by greenery; as much as I enjoyed being in and on the water, I couldn’t wait to get out and explore on land!
I made sure to be on time for the tenders heading to the historic town of Banda Neira after lunch.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s 
