Weathered Wood and Rough Sand Rising out of the sands of East Beach on Haida Gwaii, Northern British Columbia, the weathered wooden hull of the American-built, Canadian-retrofitted, coal-fired ship the Pezuta, sits where she was deposited by a strong gale on the treacherous Hecate Strait, back on December 11, 1928.
Haida Gwaii, the archipelago in Canada’sNorth Pacific waters off the coast of British Columbia (BC), is a wild and remote place. The woods and waterways abound in legends and memorials to the hardships of times past.
This ill-fated wood-hulled steam freighter was built in the US under their WWI Emergency Shipbuilding Program. By the time it was delivered to Seattle in early 1919, the war was over, and the vessel was considered excess. It ended up in Vancouver in 1927 and was retrofitted for use as a lumber carrier.
But, these northern waters are unpredictable and unforgiving: on December 11, 1928, the seas were even more treacherous than usual on the Hecate Strait: that narrow, shallow waterway between the islands of Haida Gwaii and the mainland of Northern British Columbia. Just past the mouth of the Tlell River, on the eastern coast of Graham Island, the Pezuta broke free of the towline connecting it to a tugboat. The heavily laden carrier buried itself deep into the sandy shore.
Hull recovery efforts failed, so salvage operations stripped what they could. The remnants of this massive ship were abandoned on the beach – where weathered wood and rusty portholes remain.
Today, the walk to the shipwreck is one of the most popular hikes in Haida Gwaii. Known as the Pesuta Shipwreck Trail, the 12.4km (7.7mi) track is rated as moderately easy. It follows the Tlell River and then the beach alongside the Hecate Strait, making for a long, but relatively flat, walk through rainforest and coastal ecosystems.
After spending an ‘easy day’ the day before, near my base in what was then-called Queen Charlotte (see: Fresh Food and Walking Trails), I drove north to the Tlell River Picnic Park in Naikoon Provincial Park where the walk starts.
Join me for a walk in the woods:
Anchor Chains and a Mooring Post Here at the Tlell River Picnic Park there are Provincial Park sign boards with plenty of local information. This is the starting point for the multi-day East Beach Trail as well as the shorter Pesuta Shipwreck Trail.
Into the Woods The path sets off into the dark and quiet temperate rainforest.
Rough Bark I am distracted regularly by the shapes and textures of the moss-covered trees which thrive in this wet, cool climate.
Nature’s Artworks: Sitka Spruce (Picea Sitchensis) Bark These old forests are home to tall sitka spruce, western hemlock, and western red cedar.
A Path in the Woods Soon, I have to watch my footing …
A Rough Path on the Ridge … as the path climbs a short distance onto the narrow ridge strewn with roots and rocks that runs parallel with the river.
In the Spanish Moss These old forests are magical! I’m happy to be walking alone in the quiet. The trees are draped in mosses and lichens due to high humidity and rainfall.
Tall Trees These trees are tall – with some reaching heights of 70 meters (over 230 feet).
Tree Tops Look up! These giants grow a long way up to reach the sunlight.
Along the Tlell River After almost an hour, I emerge from the forest onto a pleasant gravel path that follows the river.
Lodgepole Pine or Shore Pine – Pinus Contorta Out of the shadows of the forest it is easier to get a good look at the different conifers that grow here. Male cones (microstrobili) cluster on the new shoots of a lodgepole pine.
Spruce Needles It is still spring in these northern latitudes: new growth is everywhere.
Huge Driftwood This says the Pacific Northwest to me: cedar shakes on the roof of a cottage, and massive washed up driftwood on the shoreline.
A Bend in the River The walk along the river continues.
Common Ringed Plover – Charadrius Hiaticula I get really excited when I find any wildlife – even the smallest of common birds!
American Robin – Turdus Migratorius
Nature’s Artworks : Ripples in the Sand The ground gets sandier as the trail gets closer to the mouth of the Tlell River.
Footprints on the Beach
Still Life Found: A Colourful Shoreline
Weathered Wood and Rust After almost a hundred years, there is not much left of the shipwrecked Pezuta. Walkers are warned to check tide charts: these low-lying lands can make the wreck inaccessible at high tide.
Nature’s Still Life : Rocks on the Sand
Otter in the River There are two kinds of otters in this region: river otters (Lontra canadensis) and sea otters (Enhydra lutris). While this little fellow is too far away for me to be sure, it is probably the more common river otter.
Tall Tree Trunks Back in the woods, the afternoon sun is slanting through the tall trees.
Ferns and Moss
Geikie Creek About half way back to the car, I recross the little Geikie Creek, where the rich organic matter in the ground turns the water blood red.
It was my last day in these magical islands, and this walk was fitting finale to my stay.
Mason Rack With blues gravel in his voice and a cheeky twinkle in his eyes, Mason Rack is a born entertainer. He and his band had the room rocking at the recent Thredbo Blues Festival in the Australian mountains.
Blues musicians rock!
The entertainers at the Thredbo Blues Festival last month had me smiling from ear to ear. This little event takes place in the charming alpine village for which it is named, high in Australia’sSnowy Mountains. For two and a half days, the restaurants, bars, and public spaces are bouncing with joyful sounds.
I’ve already posted a selection of pictures from the performances Friday evening and early Saturday (see: Portraits in Blues), and have had trouble reducing the rest – from Saturday afternoon through Sunday night – down to a manageable number.
Of course, these pictures would be better with their accompanying sounds! So, I’ve included a badly filmed but groovy short clip to get you in the mood:
Ray Beadle Swing Quintet Rain and wind drove all the daytime performances indoors. So, even though it was early afternoon, I was plunged into pseudo-nightclub darkness to enjoy swinging “Jump Blues” sounds inside the Kosci Room.
Ray Beadle I always make a point of catching award-winning performer Ray Beadle. His joy is infectious, and his musicianship is peerless.
Ed Schots Add a baritone sax to the mix, and you have a rich, swinging sound.
Carolyn Packer Known for her mastery of traditional and electronic keyboards, Carolyn Packer brings her blend of blues, jazz, swing, funk, and soul to the combo.
Ewan Lund Across in the Lounge Bar, the young musicians in the Jesse Redwing Band …
Harry Brus … have some stellar and mature backing. Harry Brus has been on the Australian music scene forever!
Bek Jensen Later – still in the Lounge Bar – Bek Jensen and her band of family share stories.
Through the Crowd Across on the other side of the village, we found a spot in the Candlelight Lodge. We didn’t have much of a view, but we could hear Jack Biilmann’s rich tones through the divider.
Mountain in Cloud Outside, the rains abated, and we could see up the Snowgums Chairlift and over the 1.5 km (0.9 mi) elevated Alpine Coaster track.
Jack Biilmann Jack crossies from faithful classics to story-rich originals. His melodic guitar filled the Candlelight dining room.
Jeff King: Joy and an Acoustic Guitar G.D. & The King Bros with guest Jill ‘Buttercup’ Tweedie are – individually and together – an integral part ot the Australian music scene. I first saw the King brothers way back in the 1980s, in the Sydney Basement.
Jill ‘Buttercup’ Tweedie Jill delivers cheeky vocals with style!
Live Music on the Mountain Early Sunday, I was back up the mountain, in the Merritts Mountain House, admiring the energy of Dave Hole on guitar and vocals, Rudy Miranda on drums, and Graham Burns on bass.
Finger Picking Naturally, Dave Hole’s set ended with a blistering demonstration of his guitar mastery.
Sweet Felicia I had so enjoyed Sweet Felicia & the Honeytones at the opening of the festival that I made a point of catching them again.
Alison Penny with the Honeytones Multi-award-winning Ali Penny is well known and loved on the Aussie blues scene.
Steve Edmonds with the Honeytones Guitarist-extraordinaire Steve Edmonds seems to be everywhere.
Roscoe Clark with the Honeytones Another familiar face, drummer Roscoe ‘Stinger’ Clark keeps the rhythm tight.
Sound Guy Off to the side, the ‘sound guy’ watches the levels.
Mason Rack Band Back downhill in the village, I was introduced to the wonderful Mason Rack Band.
Mason Rack When he’s not sounding like Tom Waits growling an old blues-rock standard, Mason Rack is giggling like a mischievous child and telling stories of growing up in a family of entertainers.
Mason Rack on Weissenborn Lap Slide One of his stories is about buying this classic guitar – when he really couldn’t afford it.
Claire Hollander on Trumpet Meanwhile, in The Pub, Bonnie Kay & The Sweet Patooties are serving up a rousing blend of blues, jazz, rockabilly, and swing.
Steve Edmonds Downstairs in The Keller, the ubiquitous Steve Edmonds is back – this time with his own band.
Song Book Watching Don Hopkins the keyboard-player turn the page on the play list seemed like a good moment for me to close the book on this year’s event.
The live music continued long into the night –
but I’d had a rich and varied experience full of magical moments.
It was time for me to hang up my dancing shoes until next year.
A Valley of Tea With water in the valleys, tea and spices in the mountains, and colourful people everywhere, Munnar – a Hill Station in Kerala, India – really is as beautiful as they promise.
The town of Munnar, in Kerala, South India, was once a popular summer resort for members of the British Raj. Sitting high (1,600 metres – 5,200 feet) in the Western Ghats, this hill station offered cooler summer temperatures than those in the hot and humid coastal cities.
Tea plantations were established here in the late 1800s, and the bushes still dominated the landscape and the local economy.
I had a week’s stay in a modest ‘resort’ above Munnar where I was the only ‘foreigner’. There was no information about the local area in the lobby or in my room. In spite of English’s designation as an official language in much of India, only a few of the staff in the complex spoke it with any confidence.
Still, the wifi worked: I asked Google, AllTrails, and TripAdvisor, and hunted out things to do and places to go on my own. After a few days of just wandering around the neighbourhood (see: Everyday Life in the Tea Plantations), I organised for a driver to take me to nearby Anayirangal Dam.
Opened in 1965, this earthen dam on the Panniyar River was built for power generation. The resulting lake, Anayirangal, was named for the elephants (anay) who frequently come down (irankal) from the adjacent jungle to drink from the waters (see: Kerala Tourism: Munnar). The lake and surrounds have become a popular place for boating and picnics.
I saw no elephants, and I almost missed the only available boat! The vessel had been hired for a large group on a work outing; fortunately, my driver negotiated with them and they allowed me to join them for their tour.
Having a group of friendly women to chat with as we cruised gently on the waters, surrounded by forest on one side and by a sprawling section of the ubiquitous Tata Tea Plantation on the other, made for a lovely afternoon.
On the trip back to the resort, we drove through town itself and stopped at one of the spice gardens, where – for a small fee – I was reintroduced to the many spices grown for harvest at these altitudes. Our last stop before returning home was at a chocolate factory.
Join me for a pleasant afternoon in the hills around Munnar:
Family Group It is not uncommon for work groups to make weekend excursions with their family members. We chat happily together as our canopied boat chugs across the dam.
Anayirankal Dam The Western Ghats rise up steeply from the jungle at the water’s edge.
Portrait of a Young Woman We didn’t have much language in common, but people happily posed for my cameras.
Laundry on the Line Domestic life continues at the edges of the water.
An Earthen Dam You can just see the dam, floating into the haze on the horizon. Built from compacted soil, clay, and rock, earthen dams are popular in India because of their cost-effectiveness and flexibility.
Best Friends These women grew up together, went to school together, and now work in the same office.
Mother and Daughter The women are especially pleased to have daughters who are similar in age: making another generation of friendship.
Kayaks on Anayirankal Dam Close-up to the dam, the earthen texture is clearly visible.
Men on on the Shore
People in the Park After taking leave of the boat and my fellow passengers, I walk up the hill overlooking the dam.
People in the Watchtower A visiting couple takes advantage of a romantic moment.
Overlooking Anayirankal Dam It’s a beautiful view from the watchtower.
Walking in a Temple Procession There are so many Indian Gods that almost any day is a holy day! Thaipusam is especially important: it commemorates the victory of the Hindu God Murugan over the demon Surapadman.
The Thaipusam Kavadi To mark Thaipusam, devotees often pull or carry physical burdens as a symbolic act of sacrifice. This is intended to reduce spiritual debt. In this case, the kavadi, or burden, is the decorated cart.
Kratom Plant – Mitragyna Speciosa I can’t count how many spice-garden tours I have done over the years – but I always learn (or remember!) something new. The kratom is a tropical evergreen tree native to Southeast Asia and used to treat pain, diarrhea, and fatigue.
Coffea Arabica Plenty of coffee is grown in India. It is hard, however, to find a cup of brew anywhere. At my ‘resort’, it was almost impossible!
Coffee Berries
Cacao Pod on a Theobroma Cacao Tree
Nutmeg – Myristica Fragrans Originally endemic to the Maluku Islands in Indonesia, nutmeg was central to some horrific colonial history as part of the global spice trade.
Workers in a Truck Bed Back in the streets of Munnar, life goes on!
Making Chocolates My last stop of the day was at the Munnar Chocolate Factory, where I watched nuts being carefully hand-placed into chocolates.
Chocolate Maker I get a shy smile from the maker of the chocolates from behind her paper mask and protective glass screen.
Naturally, I went home with some chocolate.
If only I could have found some decent coffee to go with it!
Dan Sullivan in Blue It seems fitting that a blue spotlight shines on award-winning Australian blues-and-roots singer and harmonica player, Dan Sullivan, as he joins the band Brothers on stage at the Thredbo Blues Festival in the Australian mountains.
Is there anything as joyful as being in a room with live music that is being performed by musicians who love what they are doing?
I had the pleasure of attending the 31st Thredbo Blues Festival last month. It started on a Friday evening in January, and continued through to late Sunday night. I’ve attended this delightful little festival several times before (see: Thredbo Blues), and always enjoy it – even though I never last the full distance!
Part of the reason I love it is the venue: the performances take place in different restaurants, bars, and public spaces across the charming village of Thredbo, high in the Snowy Mountains of Kosciuszko National Park. In winter, Thredbo is one of Australia’s premier ski resorts. In summer, the alpine slopes are covered in endemic wildflowers, and populated by hikers and mountain-bike riders.
This year, unfortunately, it rained.
A lot.
So much so that I didn’t get out on any of my usual hikes, and all the daytime music got moved indoors.
Still, the music was great – and I further amused myself by attempting to make pictures of the performers.
When it comes to the success (or otherwise) of the results, the usual caveats apply: the lighting is brutal – especially in the daytime with darkened venues contrasting wildly with the rain-washed brightness outdoors; stage lights play havoc with skin-tones and with the white-balance on the cameras; and many of the venues are not built for music, so the sound can be questionable, and moving around to find lines-of-sight for pictures is challenging-to-impossible.
Still: it keeps me engaged. And, I’m pleased with some of the results.
Enjoy a few musical portraits of a selection of Australia’s foremost blues performers:
Sweet Felicia and The Honeytones The performance space in the Schuss Bar has been changed: not very successfully in my view. The musicians no longer have a stage! Still, it was early, and Sweet Felicia and The Honeytones were amongst the first performers – meaning I could get in close for a few shots.
Sweet Felicia Even though this accomplished and award-winning bassist and vocalist has been playing her sassy brand of swing and blues over a career spanning 45 years, this was my first exposure to her. She’s definitely a new favourite.
Steve Edmonds Always a joy to watch and to listen to, Steve Edmonds took lead guitar for the Honeytones.
Kate Lush Band Even without a mountain hike, you are guaranteed to get your steps in at Thredbo: our next stop, the Keller Bar, is two flights of stairs down from the Schuss Bar. The Kate Lush Band had the audience on their feet.
Dave Hole How on earth was I not familiar with this guy? Back upstairs in the Kosci Room, Dave Hole demonstrates the effortless mastery that launched him into the international scene back in 1991.
Dave Hole on Slide He is widely regarded as one of the best slide guitarists playing today.
Mal Eastick We walk across to the Lounge Bar, where one of Australia’s finest blues/rock guitarists, the well-known Mal Eastick, is leading his new line-up.
John Tweed Mal Eastick’s Tone Masters was a mix of musicians I’ve seen in many different iterations over the years – including John Tweed on keyboard.
Frank Sultana and Mike Rix I stayed in the Lounge Bar – because I had a good spot AND because I had seen Frank Sultana before. I was looking forward to Brothers, his new lineup formed in 2025 on a working trip across blues country in the southern USA.
Dan Sullivan They did not disappoint! Each of the musicians in Brothers have had illustrious solo careers.
On Harmonica with Brothers Dan Sullivan lead the band Tomcat Playground for a decade.
Nathan Beretta (Brett) with Brothers Nathan Beretta’s band Blue Eyes Cry is multi-award-winning.
Owen Campbell We might have called it an early night on Friday, but we were back before noon on the Saturday to catch another of my favourites in the Kosci Room.
Owen on Slide Billed as one of Australia’s premier alternative blues/rock performers, Owen Campbell slides into country-zone periodically. His melodic story-telling moved me to buy a CD the first time I saw him.
Sound Table The sound engineers who support the festival do a great job in what has to be difficult circumstances!
Liza Ohlbeck The weather was still awful, but in spite of the notification saying that performances slated for Merritts Mountain House were to be moved into the village, the Women in Blues Revue at the top of the Merritts Gondola was in full swing when I got there.
Powerhouse Vocals Liza Ohlbeck is a festival-favourite, with her rich blues/jazz/gospel vocals.
Andrea Marr Another powerhouse vocalist I’ve enjoyed many times in the past, Andrea Marr is one of the originators of the popular Women in Blues Revue.
Anna Scionti I loved singer/songwriter/guitarist Anna Scionti when I have seen her at Thredbo: she has some great stories and quite a collection of interesting guitars.
Women in Blues Review The Review lineup on the day featured Andrea Marr, Liza Ohlbeck, and Anna Scionti, and included John McNamara and Shane Gilbert on guitars, Andrew Fry on bass, and Greg Ohlbeck on drums.
Merritts Gondola Hunger drove me back down the hill to the village, where I would find a late lunch …
The English Tower through the Ramparts Built by the Knights Hospitaller starting in 1402, the Castle of St. Peter in Bodrum, Türkiye, features five main towers: the English, French, German, Spanish, and Italian. Each tower was designed, built, and paid for by the langue, the respective countries to which the administrative division belonged.
It was surreal: on a hot and still afternoon in the southwest of Türkiye, I was walking in the footsteps of the Crusaders.
The Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem, commonly known as the Knights Hospitaller, have a long history. Formed early in the 12th century, their mission was to strengthen religious (Catholic) devotion, to provide charity for the poor, and to care for sick, poor, or injured Christian pilgrims to Jerusalem.
All these centuries later, the descendants of this order are recognised as the St John Ambulance.
Back in the 1120s and 1130s, the Order of Saint John was militarized. Following the reconquest of Jerusalem and the Holy Land by Islamic forces in 1302, the Hospitallers were headquartered on the island of Rhodes. Wanting a stronghold on the mainland, they identified a site in what is now Bodrum, Türkiye.
I had flown into Bodrum following a few wonderfully restful days in Istanbul (see: Bosphorus Dreaming), and had a free day before joining a gulet cruise into the Gulf of Gökova (watch this space!). I figured a walk was in order before I was confined to a small sailing vessel.
So, there I was: within sight of the Mediterranean, standing among stones quarried and laid over 600 years before.
On a photographic note: I opted to leave the cameras packed and ready for their move later in the day. These photos are all taken on my old iPhone12Pro.
Sunset on Bodrum Castle A short walk from my room led me to the waterfront Churchill Kafe, where I enjoyed something Turkish and watched the sun go down over the Castle of St. Peter, commanding its promontory in Bodrum Harbour. (30September2022)
Through the Ramparts and Into the Light Like in any good medieval castle, the passages leading to the gates were designed to be full of twists and turns to confound any intruder.
Lines And Curves and Ramparts Open passageways inside meant that potential assailants couldn’t find cover from any arrows, stones, or heated projectiles hurled upon them.
The Castle and the Sea I, too, was confused as I walked around the fortress with absolutely no sense of orientation!
Mounted Guns The Knights had a powerful naval fleet, but in 1494 they started to fortify the walls facing the mainland against land-based cannons.
Pigeons Roosting in Medieval Walls
Castle Crest Every contributor to the fortress has their crest inscribed somewhere on the walls. According to a nearby plaque: “This group of coats of arms was carved in 1496…. The left and right coats of arms belong to Nicole da Incisa. In the middle is the coat of arms of the Grand Master Pierre ‘Aubusson’s united with that of the Order.”
Through the Ramparts Regular windows around the thick walls give us views over the harbour.
Into the Courtyard The crest over this passageway is the coat of arms of Giovanni Battista Orsini.
More Coats of Arms There are over 250 coats of arms placed by the knights around the fortress. The two outer shields here are the coat of arms of the Lusignan dynasty (1192–1489), which ruled the Kingdom of Cyprus. The central shield features the cross of the Knights of the Order of St. John (Hospitallers).
Inside Looking Out
Ancient Chapel / Mosque The chapel inside the fort was built around 1407. When the fort was taken over by the Islamic Ottoman Empire in 1523, the chapel was converted to a mosque and the minaret was added.
Ancient Carian Sphinx Many of the stones used in the castle’s construction were taken from the nearby Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the courtyard, there are several recovered items from nearby sites, like this ancient Anatolian artifact from the Sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda.
Towers all Around
Ancient Pottery Wine Amphorae The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology has displays of artefacts recovered from shipwrecks off the Turkish coast scattered around the castle.
Corinthian Column inside Bodrum Castle
Stone Stairs to the Tower The complex was well-signposted, but I have forgotten which tower I was heading for at this point.
The Uluburun Shipwreck (14th Century BCE) This bronze-age vessel is one of two ancient shipwrecks that have been reconstructed within the museum.
Ramparts and Tower Beyond the ramparts, there are views over the city and the Aegean Sea.
Flag at the Top The Turkish flag flies atop the French Tower.
Inside the Castle Renovations are ongoing.
More Steps : More Crests
Ancient Minaret over the Trees
On A Gulet – a Turkish Sailboat Later that afternoon, after I had parked my belongings in my room in the gulet moored in Bodrum Harbour, I saw that the castle was still keeping watch over us.
It seemed only fitting,
After all, for over a century, St. Peter’s Castle was the second-most important fortress under the Order of St John, serving as a refuge for Christians and others across Asia Minor.
Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s Order of St John provides first aid and medical responses to anyone within their catchments.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s 
