Walkers on the beach at the mouth of the Pambula River, NSW Australia

Walkers on the Pambula River
White sands, blue skies and sapphire waters – it really is hard to beat the Far South Coast of New South Wales, Australia, for beautiful places to explore!

Not thirty minutes north – or south – of my home, I can be in Beowa National Park.

This 8,900 ha (22,000 acres) park was established in 1971, and consists of two coastal sections running north-south alongside the South Pacific Ocean, on either side of Twofold Bay and the town of Eden. It was originally called Ben Boyd National Park, for a sometimes-resident Scots entrepreneur Benjamin Boyd (1801-1851). His complicated history included blackbirding cheap labour. After extensive community consultation, in 2022 the park was renamed Beowa, which means ‘orca’ or ‘killer whale’ in local Thaua language.

It is a park I have visited often (eg: Haycock Point; Short Walks; The Pinnacles), but usually only when someone else suggests it, or I have the excuse of out-of town visitors.

The walk pictured here was organised by my local branch of the National Parks Association of NSW. We found parking near Pambula Beach, and followed the beach and rocks around the corner to the mouth of Pambula River and up into magnificent coastal bushland.

Join us:

Landscape: Rocks and sand on the south end of Pambula Beach, NSW Australia

Coastal Waters
It’s a beautiful summer day on the Sapphire Coast. Our walk starts near the south end of Pambula Beach.

Landscape: View over Pambula Beach from Beowa National Park, NSW Australia

Pambula Beach
It’s a steep climb up to the trail – as you can see from the view back down over the beach behind us. That is probably what give the otherwise-easy walk its Grade 4 listing.

Coastal cliffs from the Lions Project Lookout, NSW Australia

Coastal Cliffs
We are looking out over Merimbula Bay and the South Pacific Ocean; next stop: New Zealand.

Crashing waves from the Lions Project Lookout, NSW

Crashing Waves
I love watching the waves on the rocky outcrops.

Person on a stand-up paddle board on the mouth of the Pambula River from the headland, Pambula NSW Australia

Paddle Board
This is where the river meets the sea, and rip currents are not uncommon here. Haycock Point – on the other side from us – protects the estuarine river mouth from weather coming up from the south.

Memorial bench on the Jiguma Walking Track, Pambula NSW Australia.

Memorial Bench
This is a community park: we haven’t yet reached the actual National Park boundary. Whale watching – and just water-watching – is popular here.

Coastal cliffs from the Jiguma Walking Track, NSW Australia

Rocks Below
Unlike the the sandstone common around here, the dark, red ironstone stands up against the waves.

View down to the beach at the mouth of the Pambula River from the Jiguma Walking Track, NSW Australia

People on the Beach
A makeshift staircase leads down to the beach near the mouth of the river.

Signpost: Jiguma Walking Track, Pambula NSW Australia

“Jiguma Walking Track”
Our track stays high over the water below …

View over Merimbula Bay from the Jiguma Walking Track, NSW Australia

Over Merimbula Bay
… and allows us occasional views through the trees.

Kayak on the mouth of the Pambula River from the headland, Pambula NSW Australia

Sea Kayak

Landscape: Flat red rocks at the mouth of the Pambula River, NSW Australia

Into the Pambula River
The red rocks – rich in iron oxide – stand out against the blue waters.

Landscape: Flat red rocks at the mouth of the Pambula River, NSW Australia

Patterns and Colours
I find the patterns and shapes endlessly fascinating.

People wading at the mouth of the Pambula River, NSW Australia

Wading in the Pambula River

Pittosporum growing on red rock at the mouth of the Pambula River, NSW Australia

Sweet Pittosporum (Pittosporum Undulatum) on the Edge
Our path takes us back uphill to follow the river, where we are finally in the National Park. The river waters below us are clear, …

Pambula River from the walking track, NSW Australia

Through the Trees
… and the colours everywhere are incredible!

Pambula River from the walking track, NSW Australia

White Sand

Rough steps through the trees, Pambula River Walking Track, NSW Australia

Stairs through the Trees
It’s an out-and-back track: after we reach the beach, we turn around and climb back up the hill.

Scarlet bracket fungus, Pambula River Walking Track, NSW Australia

Strange Fungus
A colourful fungus – scarlet bracket (Pycnoporus coccineus) I think – gives me an excuse to stop and catch my breath.

Pambula rivermouth from the walking track, NSW Australia

Tidal River Mouth
With the tide coming in, the shoreline narrows and we could lose some of our path back around to Merimbula Bay.

Fisherman on the red rocks at the Pambula rivermouth, NSW Australia

Fisherman on the Edge
The estuarine waters are fairly sheltered and safe, making them a good place for fishing …

Fisherman on the red rocks at the Pambula rivermouth, NSW Australia

Splash!
… as long as you are prepared to get wet!

Australian monitor lizard on the gravel, Pambula Beach.

Goanna on the Move
When we arrive at the carpark, a mid-sized monitor lizard makes its way back into the scrub.

Text: Happy Walking!This short and relatively-easy walk is so delightful – and so close to home – that I can’t believe I haven’t done it before.

Or, that I haven’t done it since!

Happy Walking.

Photos: 14January2017

Jackfruit on a tree, Ravi

Jackfruit (Artocarpus Heterophyllus) in the Jungle
The Cardamom Hills in Kerala are named for the spice that grows there – alongside other and exotic spices and a range of popular Asian fruit. Jackfruit has been cultivated in India for between 3000 to 6000 years. The fresh fruit is found in food markets across Southeast Asia, and the wood is valued by Hindu and Buddhist carvers.

The Cardamom Hills of Kerala.

The name is as heady as the rich array of exotic spices and fruits that grow there, and the wild animals that hide out in the jungle expanses.

The Cardamom Hills form the highest part of Western Ghats, a range of mountains and hills that run north – south through western India. The Western Ghats are older than the Himalaya, and so special that they have been USESCO-listed for their influence on Indian weather patterns, and for the biodiversity and the sheer number of endemic plants and animal that live there.

The importance of these hills have long been recognised. By royal proclamation under the Kingdom of Travancore in April 1822, the Cardamom Hills were declared a special administrative area. This was to promote cardamom cultivation and to support the cardamom farmers. Today, the lands come under the State Government of Kerala, but there are ongoing disputes about land use between the Forest Department and the Revenue Department.

The small group I was travelling with had driven westward, up into the hills from Madurai in Tamil Nadu (see: West out ot Madurai). Our afternoon itinerary included a visit to a spice plantation and a boat ride through a tiger reserve.

You’d be forgiven for thinking the latter would have been the high point. After all, boating through a national park – the Periyar National Park – which advertises itself as the Best managed Tiger Reserve in India, sounds pretty spectacular.

Unfortunately, the boat ride was an exercise in frustration and discomfort, which I’ll elaborate on later, while the visit to the spice garden (Ravi’s Spice Garden) was an absolute delight.

Still, the both provided a great introduction into some of what Kerala – which has long been on my wish-list – has to offer.

Indian man in Ravi

Guide in Ravi’s Spice Garden
Our guide to the beautiful organic garden was a lovely man – and well versed in the plants growing there and their uses in Ayurvedic medicine. Today, the ancient Indian medical system, known as Ayurveda, is subject to modern scientific scrutiny and taught at local universities.

Empty cacao pod, Ravi

Cacao Pod
The cacao tree (Theobroma cacao) originates from South America, but is now grown in various tropical regions – to the benefit of all of us who love chocolate!

Flower buds of a clove tree, Ravi

Cloves
Cloves (Syzygium aromaticum, syn. Eugenia aromatica) are the aromatic dried flower buds of a tree in the myrtle family. Long used in Western and Ayurvedic medicine, clove flowers start out pale, gradually turn green, then a bright red when they are ready for harvest.

Passionfruit leaves, Ravi

Passionfruit Leaves
Passionfruit (Passiflora) is a native of Brazil and southern South America and was introduced into Europe by Spanish Christian missionaries. Since the 15th century, the flowers have been associated with the Passion of Jesus in Christian theology. The leaves and roots are poisonous, but have a long history of use in Native American healing practices.

Nutmeg pod on a tree, Ravi

Nutmeg on the Tree
The evergreen Myristica fragrans tree is another magical  plant: …

Man holding an opened nutmeg seed pod, Ravi

Nutmeg Pod
… the fragrant spice nutmeg it is named for is ground from the seed, while mace (no relation to the defense spray) is made from the seed covering.

Green cardamom flower, Ravi

Green Cardamom
The flower of the herbaceous cardamom plant is beautifully delicate, like a small orchid. A member of the ginger family, Elettaria cardamomum, or true cardamom, is native to these forests.

Peppercorn fruit on the vine, Ravi

The King of Spices.
Black pepper (Piper nigrum) has grown here forever, and has been used in Indian cooking and medicine since at least 2000 BCE. Somehow, it made its way to Egypt, where black peppercorns were stuffed into the nostrils of Ramesses II as part of his mummification around 1213 BCE. At times across history, pepper was so valuable that it was used as collateral or even currency. Today, it is in every kitchen and accounts for one-fifth of the world’s spice trade.

A jungle thicket, Ravi

In the Jungle
The display garden that we walk through is beautifully wild, making every new plant feel like a discovery.

Buds on a cinnamon tree, Ravi

Cinnamon Buds
Cinnamon, another ubiquitous spice, has been popular since time immemorial. The spice is scraped from the inner bark of several Cinnamomum tree species (eg: Shaving Cinnamon, North Sumatra).

View down over Thekkadi or Periyar Lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Thekkadi or Periyar Lake
Some time later, after spice shopping and a local lunch, we were overlooking the boat ramps on Periyar Lake. This lake was formed in 1895, when the Mullaperiyar Dam was built across the west-flowing Periyar River. Today it is the heart of the Periyar Tiger Reserve.

National Parks Sign Post, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

National Parks Sign Posts
We were waiting for our tour boats. This signpost indicates the distance to some well-known reserves, and I was pleased to note that I gone looking for tigers in Royal Chitwan National Park in Nepal, and had actually seen three in one day in Ranthambore NP in Rajasthan.

Metal signs illustrating India

State Flowers of India
Information signs on the waterfront illustrate the many state flowers, birds, and animals around India.

Tour Boats on Thekkadi Lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Tour Boats on Thekkadi Lake
It would seem that all the tour boats are coming back at once!

Bonnet macaque, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Bonnet Macaque (Macaca Radiata)
Cheeky monkeys have their eyes out for anyone with unguarded food.

Passengers on a tour boat, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Bundled Up and Bundled In
Observing how passengers are forced to wear bulky, unwieldy live vests, and are wedged in tightly together, I realise that unless I’m lucky enough to get a seat at the edge, I’m not going to have much of a view!

Cormorant on a post in the lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Cormorant in the Heat-Haze
When our turn comes, we are told where to sit (and no, I didn’t get an edge), and instructed not to stand up or move around. The life vests are not optional; they are hot and incredibly uncomfortable.

Nilgai wading and drinking in the lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Nilgai (Boselaphus Tragocamelus)
Any pictures I got were over the heads of people, with my 70-200 ml lens at full zoom. I was thrilled to see this large antelope at the water’s edge …

Two nilgai stags fighting, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Butting Heads
… and even more excited to see two stags locking horns. They were quite a distance away, so I’m glad they are more-or-less in focus!

Tour boat on Thekkadi Lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

The Samudra
Some of the boats are double-deckerd, but clearly those passengers are also seated, and wearing their jackets.

Partially camouflaged elephants in the jungle, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Elephant Dreaming
We didn’t see any of the 40+ tigers rumoured to be in the reserve, but we got a vague glimpse of some of the hundreds of elephants that live there. They moved through the forest like a dream – and it took me a while to realise I wasn’t just imagining things! I think those are sambar (Rusa unicolor) in the front.

Dead tree in Thekkadi Lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Dead Tree
The lake is quite lovely – and if I hadn’t been so hot and squashed I would have really enjoyed it!

Two sambar stags fighting, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Stags Locking Antlers
It must be the season for it! A pair of sambar deer (Rusa unicolor) are locked in battle …

Two sambar stags fighting, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Stand Off!
Eventually, the sambar stags unlock antlers and just face off. I’m not clear who won?

A langur obscured by trees, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

A Suggestion of a Langur Monkey
We could hear the monkeys – but they stayed mostly hidden.

Cormorant on a branch in the lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Cormorant on Watch

Two wrecked tour boats, Thekkadi Lake, Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala India

Not all the Boats Come Home
Two abandoned boats make me wonder if that is why we have to wear those horrid vests?

Veena and Drum musicians, Spice Village, Thekkady India

Dinner Music in the Spice Village
Our beautiful accommodation in a nearby resort was truly a balm after the boat ride! There, in a reimagined tribal village set in a spice garden we got to sample southern cuisine, flavoured with the spices we had seen earlier. (iPhone12Pro)

Although I was frustrated by my experience on the boat in the animal reserve, I had plenty of new spices and an Ayurvedic recipe to get my blood pressure back down.

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

So, all in all, it was a good day. 😆

Safe Travels!

Photos: 27January2023

Daniel Lanois on guitar, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Daniel Lanois
This was the only performer I was familiar with before attending the 30th Vancouver Island Musicfest: Lanois’ 1989 debut album “Acadie” lives on my CD stacker. It was a gift from my brother many years ago.

(Click to start Still Water by Daniel Lanois.)

The morning started early, with the rousing sounds of Sunday gospel and Sacred Steel from the American South. The evening rounded out with silky smooth songs by Canadian legend Daniel Lanois. 

Sunday at the Vancouver Island Musicfest in Comox, BC, featured a diversity of musicians from countries around the world performing a range of genres. From Northumbrian clog dancing to flamenco footwork; Latin rhythms from Brazil and Chile; and story-songs from one end of Canada to the other.

The weather was glorious and the setting – clearings among the trees of the Pacific Northwest – was beautiful. There were several performers I didn’t see, and some favourites I saw more than once: whatever your taste in music, the quality was superb. If it hadn’t been for the over-zealous volunteers who shuffled people around indiscriminately and the fact that my intended companion had to withdraw, the weekend would have been perfect.

Daniel Lanois was the only performer I was familiar with before attending. Clearly, I had been living under a (non-Canadian) rock: I had no idea how accomplished and well-known he actually is! A member of the Canadian Music Hall of Fame (2002), Canada’s Walk of Fame (2005), and the Canadian Music Industry Hall of Fame (2012), he’s the winner of five JUNOs and seven GRAMMYs. He has produced albums by Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Peter Gabriel, Robbie Robertson, Emmylou Harris, Willie Nelson, Spoons, Brandon Flowers, U2, and others, as well as his own.

Possibly his best-known song, “The Maker” has been covered by Willie Nelson, Emmylou Harris, Jerry Garcia Band, and the Dave Matthews Band. 

I just knew it as a track on the CD “Acadie” in my living room!

The Lee Boys on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Sunday Morning Gospel Set with the Lee Boys (and Leon Timbo)
What could be better than some old-fashioned gospel in the sunshine? 

John Mang on keyboard, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Modern Keyboards
John Mang, keyboard player with the tribute band Stealing Dan, has had a life-long love of the Hammond organ. His Sunday morning workshop on the Crossroads Stage walked us through the science and history of modern keyboards.

Hammocks in the trees, Tsolum River, Comox BC Canada

In the Woods
Between sets, I took the opportunity to explore a short walk through the woods to the Tsolum River.

Christy Vanden on drums, The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Drums for Kids
In The Barn, Christy Vanden was demonstrating different drum patterns to a young and attentive audience.

Performers on stage at The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Sound Checking
Meanwhile, on stage, the performers and crew were getting ready for the Sunday Song Circle.

Sound mixing board, The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Sound Mixing
Once everyone is happy with the balance, the set launches.

Gordie Tentrees and Jaxon Haldane performing in The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Gordie Tentrees and Jaxon Haldane
These guys, who I had enjoyed the day before (see: From Folk to Fusion), were a treat!

Moira & Claire on stage at The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Moira & Claire
Sisters Moira & Claire deliver enchanting, angelic harmonies. Their original, Delaney’s Dad, deserves all the praise that’s been heaped on it.

Marianne Grittani and Rose Birney performing in The Barn, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Marianne Grittani and Rose Birney
Beautiful story-songs continued with Marianne Grittani and Rose Birney rounding out the Sunday Song Circle.

Portrait: Flavia Nascimento singing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Tio Chorinho & Flavia Nascimento
Back at the Concert Bowl Flávia Nascimento sings her heart out in Portuguese.

Flávia Nascimento dancing in the grass, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Flávia Nascimento
Failing to get the seated audience on its feet for the energetic Brazilian rhythms, the former actress, circus artist, and clown, jumped down off the the stage to get us dancing in the grass.

Kathryn Tickell playing Northumbrian small pipes, Crossroads, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Introduction to Northumbrian Smallpipes and Folk Tunes
This was the workshop I didn’t know I needed! Kathryn Tickell, OBE and recipient of the Queen’s Medal for Music, introduced us to the workings of the Northumbrian small pipes.

Kathryn Tickell on fiddle, Amy Thatcher clog dancing, Crossroads, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Kathryn Tickell & Amy Thatcher
There’s nothing like a traditional clog dance to make you smile!

Kathryn Tickell on fiddle, Amy Thatcher on accordion, Crossroads, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Accordion and Fiddle
The performance by Kathryn and Amy was joyful and fascinating – as we learned about the traditional music of Northern England.

Woman on clarinet with Chola y Gitano, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Clarinet with Chola y Gitano
Change of venue and change of continent: Chola y Gitano come from Chile, with distinctive Latin sounds.

Belén Rojas singing on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Belén Rojas
I had enjoyed Chola y Gitano so much the day before (see: From Folk to Fusion) that I bought one of their CDs. I couldn’t resist seeing them again.

Flamenco footwork, Damián Gallardo, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Fancy Footwork
From my (mandated!) seated position, I couldn’t get a good view of Damián Gallardo’s feet …

Damián Gallardo dancing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Damián Gallardo
… but his flamenco passion was unmistakable!

Kathryn Tickell and the Darkening on the Concert Bowl stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Kathryn Tickell and the Darkening
Having snared a good spot, reasonably central in front of the main stage, I stayed planted while the outer stages wound down for the evening. I was looking forward to hearing Kathryn Tickell again – this time with her full band, the Darkening, named for the Northumbrian twilight.

Josie Duncan on traditional harp, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Josie Duncan On Clarsach
The Celtic harp is a traditional instrument across northwest Celtic regions.

Amy Thatcher on accordion, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Amy Thatcher

JigJam on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

JigJam
The next performers to take the stage were also in the Celtic vein: …

JigJam on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Irish Meets Ole Opry
JigJam are described as Irish-Bluegrass. They are wonderfully energetic!

Daniel Lanois and band on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Daniel Lanois
This was what I was waiting for! Delightful story-songs and magical harmonies – Daniel Lanois lived up to my hopes. Johnny Shepherd and Jim Wilson helped out with vocals on The Maker.

Daniel Lanois on pedal steel, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox Canada

Pedal Steel
I had lost my central spot (long story!), and when Daniel Lanois moved back to his slide guitar, I had trouble getting a good view of his hands.

Text: To the MusicHaving been thrilled by Daniel Lanois, I had no desire to stay for the last two sets. I would have bought more CDs, but the Merch tent had packed up early! 

Never mind. I was humming the sad refrains of The Maker as I walked back to my car.

To the Music

Pictures: 14July2024

 

Three Greek Presidential Guards marching, Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

The Changing of the Greek Guard
Every Sunday, at 11am, there is a formal changing of the guard in Syntagma Square, Athens. The traditionally dressed Evzones, or Presidential Guards, are a ceremonial infantry unit that guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Mansion.

Having spent most of my life in what the West calls the “New World” or the “Colonies”, I haven’t had a lot of access to the great cities of Europe. So, when the opportunity arises to visit one of those historical cities, I am thrilled!

I had two short stops in Athens: I had spent a week wandering around Crete on my own (see: Weekly Wanders Crete) and flew back into Athens to meet up with a small group with whom I then toured the mainland. After a week, we returned from the Peloponnesus (see: Ouzo for Breakfast) and stopped in the city for two short nights.

Of course, it wasn’t long enough! But the hotel chosen by the tour company was exceptionally well-located: a short walk from Syntagma Square and with views of the city and the Acropolis from its rooftop restaurant. So, I made the best of it.

Join me for some highlights.

Dusk over the parthenon from the Hotel Electra Athens, Greece

The Parthenon on the Hill
I arrived into the metropolis very late afternoon, but had time to appreciate the view from the rooftop restaurant …(iPhone12Pro)

Sunset over Athens from the Hotel Electra, Greece

Sunset over Athens
… before the sun came down over the sprawling city of Athens. (iPhone12Pro)

Square and fountain in front of Parliament House, Athens Greece

Parliament House
The next morning, phone and map in hand, I set off for a walk up the road, and found myself at the austere Neoclassical Parliament House on Syntagma (Constitution) Square. Built between 1836 and 1842, it was originally the palace of the King of Greece. (iPhone12Pro)

Bronze bust of Aischylos outside the National Garden, Athens Greece

Aischylos – the Father of Tragedy
(525-456)

For my morning walks, I always aim for the green patches on the map. That lead me past a number of bronze statues on the main road …(iPhone12Pro)

Marble bust of poet Georgios Souris in Zappeion Garden Athens.

Georgios Souris – Greek Poet
(1853 – 1919)

… and to busts of important local poets in the charming Zappeion Garden. (iPhone12Pro)

Blue sky and the rooftops of Athens from the Hotel Electra, Greece

The Rooftops of Athens
I was back at my hotel in time for breakfast on the rooftop, and enjoyed some clear morning views. Unfortunately, the lack of smoking prohibition meant that my neighbour, six inches away from my table, was puffing away on a foul-smelling local cigarette. (iPhone12Pro)

The Caryatids, on the Erechtheion with Athens in the background, Greece.

The Erechtheion and Athens
The next day, my new group and I had an early-morning tour of the Acropolis (see: On the Acropolis).

Scaffolding around the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Temple of Olympian Zeus
On our way through the centre of the city, we stopped at the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Originally started in the 6th century BCE, it was finally finished under the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE. It fell into disuse after being pillaged in 267 CE, and was mostly hidden by scaffolding during our visit. (iPhone12Pro)

Two pillars of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

The Olympieion
At one time, this was the largest temple in Greece, but it is hard now to get a sense of its former glory.

Man and woman gigging at the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Digging at the Temple
Archaeologists perform painstaking excavation works under the supervision of the Ephorate of Antiquities.

Fallen corinthian column in circular sections, Temple of Olympian Zeus, Athens, Greece

Fallen Corinthian Column
Once, the temple included 104 colossal columns of fine marble.

Sun and flags in the Panathenaic Stadium, Athens, Greece

Flags in the Stadium
Our next stop was at the Panathenaic Stadium, built entirely of marble in 330-329 BCE. It was the site of the first Modern Olympics in 1896 and is still in use today.

Statue of Archbishop Damaskinos in Metropoleos Square Athens Greece

Statue of Archbishop Damaskinos by Greek Sculptor Fanis Sakellariou
Damaskinos Papandreou (1891 – 1949) was the archbishop of Athens and All Greece from 1941 until his death in 1949. He was also the Prime Minister of Greece for a time.

Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary, Athens Greece

Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary
This magnificent three-aisled basilica was begun in 1842 and finished 20 years later. It was largely built from marble recovered from 72 demolished churches around Athens.

Plaka Street, Athens, Greece

Athens Street
One of the joys of travel has to be the unique shopping experience! I had a wonderful time exploring the shops in the Plaka neighborhood. It has been described as a village within the city (see: Athens: the Plaka).

Flag on the Acropolis from Plaka Centre, Athens Greece

Flag On The Hill
Plaka sits under the rocky outcrop that houses the Acropolis.

Statue of Yannis Makriyannis, Plaka Greece

A Local Hero
In a public square nearby, a statue pays tribute to Yannis Makriyannis (1797-1864), a military officer who participated in the liberation war of Greece against Ottoman Empire.

Hadrian

Arch of Hadrian
Our last stop before we drive out of the city towards Meteora (see: A Walk through Ancient Monasteries) was at Hadrian’s Gate, an 18m (59 ft) monumental gateway built in 131 CE.

Pigeon on a bannister, Electra Hotel Athens Greece.

The Pigeon
A week later I was back on the Athens hotel rooftop fighting a pigeon for my morning toast. (iPhone12Pro)

Looking through a crowd at a regimental flag, Syntagma Square, Athens, Greece

Carrying the Standard
There was already a crowd in Syntagma Square when I arrived for the Sunday morning changing of the guard.

A column of Greek Presidential Guards in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

Fancy Sleeves and Bayonets
Every element of the distinctive Evzone uniform has a meaning tied to Greece’s modern history and national identity. The red Pharion (cap) they wear symbolises the blood spilled by the warriors during the liberation struggles, and the black silk tassel represents tears for the losses endured.

The back of three marching Greek Presidential Guards in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Athens.

Stepping Out
The Fustanella, the kilt, is made of 30 meters of white fabric with 400 pleats, which represent the number of years of Turkish occupation. The Fermeli (vest) is beautifully hand-embroidered with cultural designs in white or gilt thread.

Portrait of a female police officer, Athens, Greece.

National Police Officer

Greek Presidential Guards in Cretan uniform, Syntagma Square, Athens.

Stepping Out
The uniform of the Cretans, with its blue breeches and white leather boots, is worn for parades and official ceremonies. (iPhone12Pro)

Greek Presidential Guards marching in , Syntagma Square, Athens.

Pom Poms
Traditionally, the large black tassel on the tsarouhi (shoe) concealed blades that could be used in close-range combat. (iPhone12Pro)

Evzone officer marching for the Changing of the Guard, Athens, Greece.

Officer Marching
The uniform of the officers more closely resembles the dress worn by klephts – the brigands and/or freedom fighters who battled against the Ottoman occupiers. Officers are armed with a pála, a kilij-style curved scimitar. (iPhone12Pro)

Street Musicians, Ermou Street Athens Greece

Street Musicians
Evening in the cobbled streets near our hotel are charming – and a little cooler than the wickedly hot days.

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Ermou Athens Greece

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea
There is a new delight on every corner. Probably built around 1050 … (iPhone12Pro)

The Church of Panagia Kapnikarea, Ermou Athens Greece

Busking
… the beautiful little Church of Panagia Kapnikarea is one of the oldest in Athens. (iPhone12Pro)

Museum of Modern Greek Culture and the Acropolis, Monasteraki Athens, Greece

In the Streets of Monastiraki
We are headed to the Monastiraki district for alfresco dining across from the Museum of Modern Greek Culture and evening views up to that ever-present Acropolis. (iPhone12Pro)

Night lights on the Acropolis from Hotel Electra, Athens Greece

Night Lights on The Acropolis
Back at the hotel after dark, I snuck up to the now-quiet rooftop for one last look at that incredible monument on the hill. (iPhone12Pro)

What a wonderful city!

I enjoyed every minute of it.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 10-12and18September2022

A woodhip freighter on the private wharf, Eden NSW Australia

Collecting Wood Chips
On the long wharf, privately owned by Allied Natural Wood Exports, a freighter fills its belly with controversial wood chips.

The little Port of Eden, near where I live in Far South New South Wales (NSW), is a busy working seaport.

Situated on Twofold Bay, halfway between Sydney and Melbourne, it is one of the deepest natural harbours in the Southern Hemisphere. This makes it ideal for large vessels – including the Royal Australian Navy ships who regularly pull into their designated wharf while on maneuvers or to access the nearby land-based munitions store. The port hosts an Australian Border Force office, and services the occasional import and export vessels, with the principal export being timber products – including wood chips from the local factory. It has long been home to a small fishing fleet.

Today, tourism is a growing business.

Every year, principally in October and November, thousands of humpback whale migrate close to the Eden coastline as they make their way south to feeding grounds in Antarctica. Many are females, with new calves born in the warmer waters further north. For several months, whale watching trips can advertise ‘guaranteed sightings’ of these magnificent creatures.

An expanded dock in Eden has seen a growth in the number of cruise ships stopping in town, with 41  of them stopping during the 2023/24 season. Smaller operators take tourists on fishing charters or whale watching trips. A number of pleasure boats and recreational fishing vessels make their home here, and it is a welcome refuge for long-distance yachts in inclement weather.

To keep a listening watch over the many vessels on the waters here, Marine Rescue NSW operates a Search and Rescue Centre (SARC) in Eden – and it was as a volunteer with that organisation that I was invited onto an October whale-watching cruise on the Cat Balou catamaran. The vessel and her company have changed owners since, but they are still whale-watching along the Sapphire Coast.

This was not my first trip out on that catamarin (see: Watching Water and Watching Water 2), and I had learned that seeing a whale was a bit like the blind men and the elephant: you might see a blow, or a hump, or a tail, but you were unlikely to see the whole animal!

Still, I love being on the water, so I jumped at the offer. We were still in the grips of Covid-19 restrictions, which meant reduced passenger numbers on the boat, making it even more special.

On a photographic note: my brain was on a go-slow, and I lost a lot of pictures because I didn’t set my camera speed to compensate for the motion of the vessel on the water. Oh well!

I hope you enjoy what I salvaged:

View of boats docked in Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Leaving Twofold Bay
Twofold Bay was named by English explorer and naval surgeon George Bass (1771 –1803) for its two bights. A range of working vessels berth here in Eden Harbour.

Two tugboats in Snug Cove, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Tugboats in Snug Cove
With large ships visiting regularly, two tugs sit at the ready in the harbour.

Two Australian pelicans on the water, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Pelicans in Snug Cove
Where there are fishing boats – and fish – there are bound to be gulls and pelicans.

Australian pelican on the water, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Australian Pelican – Pelecanus Conspicillatus
Australian pelicans are large water birds – although they are only medium-sized by pelican standards. They have the longest bill of any living bird.

Cabin of Cat Balou from the deck, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Cat Balou
There is plenty of room on the deck of the catamaran to move around.

Orange freighter, Navy Dock, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Ship on the Navy Dock
It is a busy day on the water. A large freighter is moored here on the Navy Wharf; in the distance, another freighter takes on a load of wood chips at the private pier.

Workers on an orange ship, Eden Harbour, NSW Australia

Workers on a Visiting Ship
We pull along side, and I can watch the seamen who look tiny on the decks. I couldn’t distinguish their language, but a lot of the seafarers on these freighters are from the Philippines.

Red Rocks in the water, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Red Rocks on East Boyd Bay
This coast is known for its sapphire blue waters, white beaches, and red rocks coloured by iron oxide.

Great cormorants on a channel marker, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Cormorants on the Marker
Great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo) are one of three types we see regularly around this coast.

Logging truck on a long wharf, East Boyd Bay, Eden, NSW Australia

Private Wharf
Timber exports are still a big part of the local economy. The bush fires of 2019-20 raged through here in early January 2020: a pile of woodchips from the mill ended up burning for days. Blackened tree trunks are still visible from the water.

Boyds Tower on Red Point Eden from the water, NSW Australia

Boyd’s Tower
The square tower on Red Point was built from Pyrmont (Sydney) sandstone in 1847 by Scottish entrepreneur Benjamin Boyd. The January 2020 fires razed the bush here; although the ground is greening up, the trees are still skeletons.

Boyds Tower on Red Point Eden from the water, NSW Australia

South of Red Point
We round the aptly-named Red Point. The commanding twenty-three metre (75 ft) Boyd’s Tower was intended as a private lighthouse, but was only ever used as a lookout in the days of Eden’s whale hunting.

Tail of a humpback with water splashing, Eden, NSW Australia

Whale Tail
The eagle eyes of our captain have spotted a whale.

Three dolphins in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

Dolphin Abstract
A school of dolphins play with the boat. We get bottlenose and common dolphins around here, but with the distortion from the waters, I have no idea which these are.

Humpback back, Eden, NSW Australia

Humpback Back
As I said earlier, the shape and enormous size of a humpback is impossible to discern from the bits that make it above the water.

Dolphin in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

Dolphin
The dolphins are a joy to watch as they bullet past the boat.

Large splash of water in front of the Eden coast, NSW Australia

Splash!
Clearly, the whales are breaching the water – just not where we can see them properly! That is Mount Imlay in the background, rising up from the landscape.

Tail of a humpback with water splashing, Eden, NSW Australia

Another Whale Tail
Closer to the vessel, the best we can spot are tail-slaps …

Tail of a humpback, Eden, NSW Australia

White Fluke
… and the flash of a tail’s underside as the giant mammal does a deep-dive and disappears.

Two dolphins in wavy water off a boat, Eden, NSW Australia

A Suggestion of Dolphins

Inside the Cat Balou, Eden, NSW Australia

The Captain’s Chair

Australasian gannet in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

Australasian Gannet – Morus Serrator
Given how uncooperative the whales and dolphins had been …

Australasian gannet in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

Morus Serrator – Australasian Gannet
… I was thrilled to capture some local bird-life!

White-bellied sea-eagle in flight against a blue sky, Eden, NSW Australia

White-Bellied Sea-Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucogaster
The eagle was much further away, but I love watching them against the sky.

It was a lovely morning on the water.

One day, I’ll be there when the whales breach!

Text: Safe Sailing

Until then,

Safe Sailing

Pictures: 02October2020