The English Tower through the Ramparts Built by the Knights Hospitaller starting in 1402, the Castle of St. Peter in Bodrum, Türkiye, features five main towers: the English, French, German, Spanish, and Italian. Each tower was designed, built, and paid for by the langue, the respective countries to which the administrative division belonged.
It was surreal: on a hot and still afternoon in the southwest of Türkiye, I was walking in the footsteps of the Crusaders.
The Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem, commonly known as the Knights Hospitaller, have a long history. Formed early in the 12th century, their mission was to strengthen religious (Catholic) devotion, to provide charity for the poor, and to care for sick, poor, or injured Christian pilgrims to Jerusalem.
All these centuries later, the descendants of this order are recognised as the St John Ambulance.
Back in the 1120s and 1130s, the Order of Saint John was militarized. Following the reconquest of Jerusalem and the Holy Land by Islamic forces in 1302, the Hospitallers were headquartered on the island of Rhodes. Wanting a stronghold on the mainland, they identified a site in what is now Bodrum, Türkiye.
I had flown into Bodrum following a few wonderfully restful days in Istanbul (see: Bosphorus Dreaming), and had a free day before joining a gulet cruise into the Gulf of Gökova (watch this space!). I figured a walk was in order before I was confined to a small sailing vessel.
So, there I was: within sight of the Mediterranean, standing among stones quarried and laid over 600 years before.
On a photographic note: I opted to leave the cameras packed and ready for their move later in the day. These photos are all taken on my old iPhone12Pro.
Sunset on Bodrum Castle A short walk from my room led me to the waterfront Churchill Kafe, where I enjoyed something Turkish and watched the sun go down over the Castle of St. Peter, commanding its promontory in Bodrum Harbour. (30September2022)
Through the Ramparts and Into the Light Like in any good medieval castle, the passages leading to the gates were designed to be full of twists and turns to confound any intruder.
Lines And Curves and Ramparts Open passageways inside meant that potential assailants couldn’t find cover from any arrows, stones, or heated projectiles hurled upon them.
The Castle and the Sea I, too, was confused as I walked around the fortress with absolutely no sense of orientation!
Mounted Guns The Knights had a powerful naval fleet, but in 1494 they started to fortify the walls facing the mainland against land-based cannons.
Pigeons Roosting in Medieval Walls
Castle Crest Every contributor to the fortress has their crest inscribed somewhere on the walls. According to a nearby plaque: “This group of coats of arms was carved in 1496…. The left and right coats of arms belong to Nicole da Incisa. In the middle is the coat of arms of the Grand Master Pierre ‘Aubusson’s united with that of the Order.”
Through the Ramparts Regular windows around the thick walls give us views over the harbour.
Into the Courtyard The crest over this passageway is the coat of arms of Giovanni Battista Orsini.
More Coats of Arms There are over 250 coats of arms placed by the knights around the fortress. The two outer shields here are the coat of arms of the Lusignan dynasty (1192–1489), which ruled the Kingdom of Cyprus. The central shield features the cross of the Knights of the Order of St. John (Hospitallers).
Inside Looking Out
Ancient Chapel / Mosque The chapel inside the fort was built around 1407. When the fort was taken over by the Islamic Ottoman Empire in 1523, the chapel was converted to a mosque and the minaret was added.
Ancient Carian Sphinx Many of the stones used in the castle’s construction were taken from the nearby Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the courtyard, there are several recovered items from nearby sites, like this ancient Anatolian artifact from the Sanctuary of Zeus at Labraunda.
Towers all Around
Ancient Pottery Wine Amphorae The Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology has displays of artefacts recovered from shipwrecks off the Turkish coast scattered around the castle.
Corinthian Column inside Bodrum Castle
Stone Stairs to the Tower The complex was well-signposted, but I have forgotten which tower I was heading for at this point.
The Uluburun Shipwreck (14th Century BCE) This bronze-age vessel is one of two ancient shipwrecks that have been reconstructed within the museum.
Ramparts and Tower Beyond the ramparts, there are views over the city and the Aegean Sea.
Flag at the Top The Turkish flag flies atop the French Tower.
Inside the Castle Renovations are ongoing.
More Steps : More Crests
Ancient Minaret over the Trees
On A Gulet – a Turkish Sailboat Later that afternoon, after I had parked my belongings in my room in the gulet moored in Bodrum Harbour, I saw that the castle was still keeping watch over us.
It seemed only fitting,
After all, for over a century, St. Peter’s Castle was the second-most important fortress under the Order of St John, serving as a refuge for Christians and others across Asia Minor.
Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s Order of St John provides first aid and medical responses to anyone within their catchments.
Women in a Blue Street Autumn rain washes the narrow, winding streets in the medina – the old city – of Chefchaouen: a blue-washed delight in Morocco’s northwestern Rif Mountains.
I loved Chefchaouen.
I never quite managed to pronounce it though!
The name of this charming little city in the mountains of northwestern Morocco comes from an Arabic word chef meaning “to look” and a Berber word echaouen meaning “antlers” or “horns”; the term refers to the two most prominent mountain peaks that overlook the city, rising up like the horns of an animal.
The fortified city was founded in 1471 by a distant descendant of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad. It was intended as a defence against potential attacks by Portuguese invaders. In addition to local Berbers, the original settlers were predominantly Andalusi Muslims and Sephardic Jews who were escaping the Iberian Peninsula during and after the SpanishReconquista.
Today, Chefchaouen is known as the Blue Pearl of Morocco.
Most of that Jewish population left for Israel when it was formed in 1948, but the practice of painting the buildings in the medina blue lives on. Some say the colour repels mosquitoes. Some maintain that the wash of blue and white keeps the houses cooler in summer months.
There are several other possible explanations. What is known for sure is that the colourful streets attract artists and tourists. So, the local government hands out paint brushes to inner-city residents annually to help keep Chefchaouen looking fresh.
Join me for a rainy walk through Morocco’sBlue Pearl:
People Love Chefchaouen! My small group and I drove into the city from Meknes, visiting Volubilis enroute (see: Roman Ruins in Morocco). Naturally, we stopped briefly at the Selfie Spot overlooking the city.
In a Decrepit Courtyard On an early-morning walk from our hotel in the medina, we stopped into a traditional Andalusian courtyard: decaying, but still beautiful.
Plaza Uta el Hammam Our walk took us through through the central plaza. The heart of the medina is shady, cobbled, and surrounded by mountains, cafes, restaurants, and history.
Chefchaouen Rooftops Rooftops rise all around against a backdrop of mountain and low-hanging cloud.
Tourists in Plaza Uta el Hammam It is raining – but softly – just enough to wash the cobbles and brighten the landscape.
A Water Fountain Everywhere you go in Morocco, you will see beautiful public fountains. Naturally, in Chefchaouen, they are blue!
Arched Doorway Intricately patterned floor tiles are another common feature of Moroccan design.
Wall Art Mariano Bertuchi (1884-1955) was a Spanish painter from Granada who painted the landscapes of Morocco and scenes of daily life. He spent a lot of time in this region – relocating to Tetouan just an hour and a half north of here, where he eventually died.
Wall Bracket
Colourful Stairway The laneways are narrow, colourful, and WET!
Steep Stairs and Wall Art Stairs wander off in all directions, and every shade of blue is represented in the paint.
Restaurant el Cielo Tourism has given the little city a boost.
Once an Andalusian Mosque … Built some time between 1540 and 1550, this was once the site of a mosque. I’m not sure what the building is used for today.
A Colourful Corner
Into the Clouds Stairs lead off in all directions.
Water from the Rif Mountains The Ras al-Ma’(Ras El Maa) or Head of the Water is located here, just east of the medina. This natural mountain spring was the original water source for the city.
Ras al-Maa – Head of the Water Particularly valued in the heat of summer, the mountain waters tumble over boulders as they make thier way down hill.
Visitors Leave Their Mark Everybody loves Chefchaouen!
More Blue Stairs
Hotel Daryakout The local boutique hotels compete with each other for Andalusian charm.
Street Lamp
Medieval Alleyway
Another Colourful Staircase
City Water Fountain Our walking tour around the little city takes us back to Plaza Uta el Hammam, where everyday life continues.
Said Our engaging guide – who is wearing a blue scarf in honour of the city – sets us loose for the rest of the day …
In the Laneway … and I wander back through the quiet medina to my room.
Naturally, I got out again later to explore this charming city further – watch this space.
Rowers on a Longboat These war canoes – called kora kora or coracora – are traditional naval vessels in the Indonesian province of Maluku. They were once used to carry men on raids for plunder and/or slaves. Fortunately for us, this one has been sent out to greet our ship as we pass through the Zonnegat Channel and enter the Banda Caldera.
We were in the waters of the fabled Spice Islands of Indonesia.
Today, this archipelago is home to countless islands covered in thick rainforests. The landscape is scarred by years of volcanic eruptions and the underwater-scape comprises stunningly pristine coral reefs populated by every colour fish you can think of.
The Banda Islands are not particularly easy to access, and village infrastructure is patchy. In the late 1990s, sectarian violence in nearby Ambon spilled over, damaging the then-fledgeling tourism industry. We, however, were in our own floating ‘hotel’: the Australian-registered small ship the Coral Geographer. So, we could enjoy visits to the very different local communities while being largely insulated from under-developed facilities.
From the early 16th century, the Banda Islands were home to incredible colonial bloodshed. This was thanks to the European desire for nutmeg and mace, which grew nowhere else in the world. The islands were taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, and then the Dutch arrived in 1599. The Dutch monopolised the local spice trade well into the 17th century. More on all that at some other time – when I make landfall on Banda Neira itself.
Our ship had traveled southeast overnight – traversing the Banda Sea from Saparua (see: Aboard a Ship in the Ceram and Banda Seas). Early in the morning, we were all out on the foredeck of our vessel to enjoy the kora kora canoes as they welcomed us with their rhythmic drumming and guided us into the banda – an Indonesian word derived from Persian, meaning “port” or “haven.”
Then, after a sumptuous breakfast, we were off to snorkel (or dive) on the extensive coral reef that has built itself in the lava flow that runs off Banda Api. On this occasion, my waterproof phone cover failed me completely, and all my pictures are blurry. So, I’ve included a couple taken by crew with their proper underwater housings.
Join me on and in the waters of the caldera around the Banda Islands:
Early Morning Fishermen Fishing is a big industry across the islands. The men are out early to cast their heavy nets from their wooden longboats.
Waiting for the Welcome We are all out on deck early for the kora kora. Like many others, I had my coffee in hand.
Towards Banda Neira The eponymous town that is the nerve-center of the island of Banda Neira comes into view as we work our way through the channel.
Landslip on Banda Api Between 1586 and 1988, the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. Evidence from the 1988 eruption, which killed three people, is still visible.
Mosque on Banda Api The 1800 islanders resident at the time of the last volcano were evacuated, but a small community has moved back.
Welcome Longboat Finally! The welcome canoes – one either side of us – come into view.
Boats in the Harbour Our kora kora welcome boats are not the only vessel in the little harbour.
Keeping Time A drummer on the boat keeps the rhythm for the rowers. He throws us a cheeky smile from the prow.
Paddlers in the Stern These boats are about ten metres (33 feet) long and very narrow. They sit low, and weigh about four tons.
Fishing Boat The wooden fishing boats are laden with heavy nets as they head out to open waters.
Lima Saudara – Five Brothers The men smile and wave as they pass our vessel.
Boats in the Harbour
Kora Kora War Canoe The steep, jungle-clad hills around the water-filled caldera rise up on Banda Neira, and the longboat races towards the village.
Crew Member at the Prow The cruise staff keep a sharp lookout …
Working the Anchor … and once they are happy with the ship’s location …
Anchor Winch … the anchor is dropped into position.
NMI: Snorkeling in the Lava Flow Crew-member Jess got a shot of me engaging in a lazy snorkel in the reef off Banda Api.
NMI: Fish in the Lava Flow Jess also caught a striated surgeonfish (Ctenochaetus striatus) and a Moorish idol (Zanclus cornutus) – just two of the many species in the waters here.
From My Window The little mosque on Banda Api beckons through my porthole. I was looking forward to a visit the next morning.
Sesame Crusted Tuna Steak with Nori and Rice Shipboard life revolves around meals!
We were surrounded by greenery; as much as I enjoyed being in and on the water, I couldn’t wait to get out and explore on land!
I made sure to be on time for the tenders heading to the historic town of Banda Neira after lunch.
Munnar Tea From high in a hill station in the Western Ghats, I have views over the extensive tea plantations, and down to the three rivers that give the town of Munnar, in India’s Kerala Province, its name.
Finally!
The day dawned clear, and while the mists cloaked the distant mountains, the extensive green hills covered in tea bushes and silver oak trees that surrounded my ‘resort’ had at long-last come into view.
I had booked myself in for a week’s stay above Munnar, a town in the Western Ghats in India’s southern state of Kerala (see: In the Green Tea Plantations of Munnar). This hill station was once a resort for the British Raj elite; today it is surrounded by tea plantations first established in the late 19th century. It is clearly a popular holiday destination for local families: I seemed to be the only ‘foreigner’ in the district.
But, the rain had finally stopped! My driver wasn’t due to return from Kochi until the afternoon, so I took my cameras for a walk to a local waterfall.
The Periya Canal Waterfall is an overflow from a man-made canal, and even though it was a Sunday, the roadside was busy with people washing their cars and trucks with the ‘free’ water. It was a pleasant short walk, and it was good to get out of my room.
Join me for a stroll:
Malabar Flameback Woodpecker – Chrysocolaptes Socialis Endemic to this region of southwestern India with its foothill forests and wet lowlands, this beautiful bird was outside my room when I woke in the morning.
The Winding Road Below I’m not a tea drinker. As this is India, I couldnot get a decent cup of coffee in the breakfast room. I could – at least – look over the patterns made by the tidy evergreen tea plants (Camellia sinensis) below. Against the hill, silver oak trees (Grevillea robusta), native to Australia, provide shelter from strong winds and shade from the sun.
Red-Whiskered Bulbul – Pycnonotus Jocosus On of the things that always amazes me about India – especially given its enormous population – is the wildlife everywhere. After breakfast, a melodious warble attracts my attention to a native bulbul on a sign along the road.
Deliveries on a Bike Bikes are a cheap and popular mode of transport; riders are often laden with goods as they make their way around the potholes.
Pots and Pans and Potholes
Over Munnar I continue to get views over the tea and down to the river confluence as I walk along the dusty road.
Tea Leaves Fresh buds of tea leaves rise from the neatly trimmed bushes.
Into the Distance Up the road, rocky bluffs rise above the tea.
Pedestrian with a Load I am not the only pedestrian on the road: everywhere you go in India, you will see people walking with loads on their heads.
Bird on a Wire According to Google, this is a western yellow wagtail (Motacilla flava). To me, it is a reminder of Leonard Cohen.
Periya Canal Waterfall It turns out that this little waterfall is an overflow from a canal.
Washing the Car The waterfall’s location – next to the road – makes it a popular car-wash spot.
Corn-Seller The spot’s popularity means that the vendors are out with their wares.
Washing the TukTuk All manner of vehicles are being washed in turn.
Tea on the Hill
A Colourful Fence Local buildings are wildly colourful. Apparently, this is a temple to a popular Indian Hindu goddess.
Sales Kiosk Little stalls with sweets, tobacco, and soft drink are everywhere.
Tea and a Bluff
Green After days of rain, the tea bushes are green and fresh.
Chestnut-Headed Bee-Eater – Merops Leschenaulti My lenses don’t have the range and I don’t have the patience … but I spent ages watching these fast-moving little guys darting around the bushes.
Tea Sales Later that day, I visited an outlet – and bought some tea I would never drink.
The best part of being a lone foreigner in a strange (but safe) environment is getting a glimpse into ordinary life.
Buying a few packs of tea I would never drink is a small price to pay!
Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum These popular imported deciduous trees thrive in the cool temperate climate of Mount Tomah in Australia’sBlue Mountains; they put on a magnificent, full-colour display in autumn.
Like the changing of the year, the transition of the seasons makes for a good time to reflect: to sweep out the old and make way for new growth.
One of the sites developed and managed by the Royal Botanic Gardens and Domain Trust based in Sydney, these gardens sit at 1,000 metres (3281 feet) above sea level in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains. The gardens, in the Jamison Valley’s rainforest, are home to more than 4,000 species of plants. They extend over 28 hectares (69 acres) of beautifully manicured gardens and wandering pathways.
The altitude and location give the gardens their cool temperate climate, making them suitable for many exotic and unusual plants from around the world. Unlike much of Australia, there are four distinct seasons here – meaning that the non-indigenous plants can properly show off their colourful autumn displays.
I had always meant to visit – but never quite made it. On one of my visits to the other side of the Blue Mountains (eg: Wanders Blue Mountains), friends of mine suggested it as a halfway meeting point for a get-together. I made sure to bring the cameras, and arrive early enough to wander through some of the pathways before lunch.
Join me for some of the brilliant colours of change:
Entry to the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden The expansive viewing deck and visitor centre offer views over the gardens to the Jamison Valley and the mountains beyond.
Basalt Rock Spiral This elegant sundial sculpture was built from local basalt rock, formed from volcanic lava flows between 14 and 17 million years ago. When it decomposes, this basalt produces the rich, fertile, red/brown soil that gives this pocket of the Blue Mountains its rich diversity of plant life.
Trees in the Gardens
Weeping Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum var. Dissectum There are over 1,000 varieties (cultivars) of Japanese maples, defined by vast differences in leaf shape, size, and color.
Golden Full Moon Maple – Acer Shirasawanum Aureum
Red Blooms Rhododendrons are another large group of plants: from small shrubs to the giant trees in the Himalayas.
Colours in the Garden Every turn in the path brings a new colour palette.
Red Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum
Sun in the Maples
Leaves on Fire Japanese maples (acer palmatum) put on a brilliant autumn display.
Norway Maple – Acer Platanoides There are about 132 species of maple trees (Acer) across the world, with all but one being native to the northern hemisphere.
Looking up to Bellbird Cafe
Stone Spiral From the Bellbird Cafe, there are views down over the granite sundial that was installed in 1992 to commemorate the garden’s fifth anniversary.
Soft Tree Fern – Dicksonia Antarctica Native to eastern Australia, soft tree ferns are found in rainforests, wet sclerophyll forests, and gardens, from south-east Queensland to Tasmania.
Red and Blue
Tulip Tree – Liriodendron Tulipifera
Rocks in the Rockpool
Waterfall in the Rock Garden
Parrot Pitcherplant – Sarracenia Psittacina The special soils around the rock pool support a wide variety of plants from around the world.
The fresh air and vibrant colours make for a lovely place to spend some time in rest and refection.
Wishing you and yours a happy and peaceful New Year.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Still a Christian faith-based organisation, today’s Order of St John provides first aid and medical responses to anyone within their catchments.
Buying a few packs of tea I would never drink is a small price to pay!
