Man paddling a shikara full of flowers, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Shikara in the Morning Flower Market
Early on a Tuesday morning, I was in the back of a shikara full of locally-grown flowers gliding through the dreamlike waterscape of algae, lily pads, and lotus on Dal Lake in Srinagar, Kashmir India.

I’ve heard it described as a chocolate-box scene: you know, like those pastel-painted views of idealised or conventionally pretty locations that were on the front of old-fashioned chocolate or sweet tins.

They are not wrong!

Dal Lake, Srinagar, in India’s Kashmir, is impossibly beautiful.

The way the autumn light filtered through the willow trees at the water’s edge; the shades of green in the irregular patterns of the floating plants and algaes on the water’s surface; the colours of the blooming flowers; and the soft plonk of oars as wooden shikara boats make their way through the maze of channels – this all reminded me of Monet’s garden, and made me feel as if I’d wandered into one of his paintings.

I know I have said similar things before (see: Water, Dreams, and Woodwork), but never was this more true than on our second full day on the lake.

Our small group of photography enthusiasts was staying in houseboats in the middle of the lake. Long before sunrise, we were up and out on our floating porches to be collected by shikaras – the traditional Kashmiri deodar cedar boats. Our drivers paddled us through the watery laneways to the location of the morning market. Apparently a daily occurance, this floating produce market starts very early: it was still pitch black when we were deposited on a section of elevated wooden walkway that seemed to go nowhere in both directions.

Then, before the sun broke the horizon, wooden boats were around us and engaged in trade. Many were laden with vegetables; many more were colourful with freshly-cut flowers.

After having a small cup of tea, we had the chance to ride behind one of the vendors as he plied his way through the still-dusky waters.

Join me on the waters of Dal Lake:

Single light over a houseboat on Dal Lake in the dark, Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Houseboat on Dal Lake
The sky was inky black and everything was quiet when we got up to wait for our transport.

Shikaras in the dim light of predawn, Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Shikaras in the Morning
The oars plonk rhythmically as we make our way through the network of interconnected water channels that run between the floating buildings and gardens.

Small simple wooden house lit up in the dark, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Pre Dawn on the Lake
Like the boats, most of the buildings around the lake are built of local water-resistant deodar cedar.

Men in uncovered shikaras in predawn light, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Watercolours
It is almost six am and the sky is getting lighter. The waters are dotted with men transporting their vegetables.

Man on the elevated wooden walkway over the lotus leaves, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Wooden Walkway
Elevated walkways wind over the lotus leaves, connecting groups of buildings.

Lotus and other Kashmiri blooms in a wooden boat, Dal Lake Srinagar, India.

Flowers
The flowers and vegetables on Dal Lake are grown in traditional floating plots made of matted vegetation and soil. The crops are tended, harvested, and transported for sale, by boat.

Man in a a shikara full of flowers, Dal Lake Kashmir India

The Flower Seller
Like Impressionist paintings, scenes on Dal Lake are characterized by broad brushstrokes of colour in ever-changing light.

A raptor on a pole silhouetted against a morning sky, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Raptor on a Pole

Men in uncovered shikaras, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

On the Waters

Lotus leaves and blooms on Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Lotus on the Lake
All around us, sacred lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) are growing on the waters – with their roots anchored in the soil of the lake-bottom, far below. These long-living perennials typically bloom from June to September.

Three men in their shikaras, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Three Men in Discussion
The shikaras clump together in groups, and their operators engage in gossip or trade.

Man paddling a shikara full of flowers, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Shikara Paddler
It is my turn to ride with one of the flower-sellers. He looks around to check out his passengers.

Three men in their shikaras, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Bucolic Colours
Another group of men a deep in conversation.

Three men in their shikaras, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Traders

Man in a a shikara full of vegetables, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Vegetable Seller

Lotus leaves and blooms on Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Lotus Flowering
As the day gets lighter, the lotus raise their flowers high above the water.

Man in a a shikara full of vegetables between wooden walkways, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Photographers on the Walkways
Some of our group watch as the vegetable seller paddles away.

Wooden buildings and a man in an uncovered shikara, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Greens

Shikaras on the algae-covered waters, Dal Lake Srinagar, Kashmir India.

In a Dreamscape

Woman in a a shikara and a transport boat, Dal Lake Kashmir India

Water Traffic
For the people who live on and around the lake, boats are a part of everyday life.

Woman and her children in a shikara, Dal Lake Kashmir India

The School Run

Egret amongst the lotus leaves on Dal Lake, Srinagar, Kashmir India.

Egret
I watch the bird life on the lake as we paddle back to our houseboats for breakfast.

According to the official Ministry of Tourism site of the Government of India, “Historical references by travellers and poets have praised [Dal Lake’s] beauty and vibrant life …”

I certainly wouldn’t disagree.

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 12September2023

View towards Asia across the Bosphorus with a Turkish flag flying over the rooftops, Istanbul.

Looking over the Bosphorus
How lucky am I? A friend of mine was living and working in Istanbul, and I was able to spend a few days watching the ships in the busy Bosphorus Strait. The picture windows in her living room looked over the rooftops of Europe and across the waters to the Asian shores.

Istanbul is the heart of Türkiye – economically, culturally, and historically. It is quite literally at the crossroads of Europe and Asia – sitting, as it does, either side of the Bosphorus Strait: part of the imaginary divide between the two continents. Strategically located along the historic Silk Road, it commands the only sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean.

I was feeling pretty lucky: a friend of mine, who had been living and working in Istanbul for some time, had a spare room. Her commodious apartment was located on a steep hill in Beşiktaş, a waterfront suburb on the European side of the Bosphorus, and I was able to spend a few days just watching the ships in the busy strait from a chair in her living room.

As much as it would have been nice to explore the city immediately, I was – in effect – between trips. I had landed in Istanbul after enjoying a wonderful month in Greece (see: Revelling in Santorini), and had plans to explore the Gökova Gulf by sailing vessel; old Lycian paths on foot; and much of the country on a small-group tour. I would return to Istanbul at the and hopefully see more of the city then.

In the meantime, I was quite happy to spend my days sitting in the living room, watching the ships on the busy Bosphorus while my cameras downloaded. The view over the waters was mesmerising, and I had to remind myself to break away long enough to catch up on laundry and other practicalities.

Then, I’d wander out into the streets in the afternoons to meet my friend at some pre-arranged location for dinner once she finished work. We never ended up very far from the water!

I left the cameras behind, and relied on my iPhone12Pro for this introductory taste of a very cosmopolitan city.

View towards Asia across the Bosphorus with a Turkish flag flying over the rooftops, Istanbul.

Location, Location!
It is hard to imagine a more perfect quiet spot in this bustling city.

Turkish naval ship against the horizon, the Bosphorus, Istanbul Türkiye

Turkish Naval Vessel on the Bosphorus
There were always ships to watch on the busy artery between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara.

Warning street sign about cats and dogs in the road, Istanbul Türkiye

Caution! Dogs And Cats
This city takes its domestic animals seriously.

Traffic cones up the curving centre of Yahya Efendi Sokağı, Istanbul Türkiye

Lines and Curves: Yahya Efendi Sokağı
Once out of the apartment, I had no trouble getting my steps in on the steep and winding cobbled roads.

View over the Bosphorus from the Conrad Istanbul, Türkiye

Over the Rooftops of Istanbul to the Sea of Marmara
On my first evening, we met up at the stylish five-star Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus for rooftop cocktails and panoramic twilight views.

Sundown view over the Istanbul from the Conrad Hotel, Türkiye

Istanbul from the Conrad Rooftop Bar
The outlook over the city stretches in all directions and the sun goes down over my first day.

View over Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge, Istanbul Türkiye

Ortaköy Square – Ortaköy Meydanı
On my second evening, we meet near Ortaköy pier square, where locals gather along the waterfront for views over Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge.

Nighttime view of Ortaköy Mosque, Istanbul Türkiye

Ortaköy Mosque (1844-1846) 
The colours are dramatic as the light drops over the small but iconic mosque formerly known as Büyük Mecidiye Camii.

Serving man against the Bosphorus in a waterfront restaurant, Ortaköy Türkiye

Waterfront Restaurant, Ortaköy
We were spoiled for choice by all the restaurants along the water’s edge.

Kumpir stalls, Ortaköy, Türkiye

The Ultimate Baked Potato Market
Imagine! A whole section of street devoted to kumpir, a favourite street food of baked potato stuffed with the most outrageously coloured fillings.

Men around a Kumpir stall, Ortaköy, Türkiye

“I’ve got the Kumpir for YOU!”

People at a coctail reception, Hüsrev Kethüda Hammam, Beşiktaş Türkiye

All the Beautiful People
Our postprandial walk takes us past the historic Hüsrev Kethüda Hammam, which was commissioned in 1550 and used for 300 years as a traditional Turkish steam bath. In 2011, it was restored to its original form, and is now a venue for culture and arts events hosted by the Beşiktaş Municipality.

Dolmabahçe Cd., Beşiktaş İstanbul, Türkiye

Afternoon in Tree-Lined Boulevards
The streets of Istanbul felt very safe, and with the aid of GoogleMaps, I always found my way around.

Ornate Imperial Gate of the Dolmabahçe Palace, Beşiktaş İstanbul, Türkiye

Treasury Gate of the Dolmabahçe Palace
I walk to the pier for a sunset cruise on the Bosphorus, past the ornate Saltanat Kapısı Sultanate Gate – of a 19th century Ottoman palace that now houses a museum.

Dolmabahçe Palace from the water, Beşiktaş İstanbul, Türkiye

Dolmabahçe Palace
Our cruise takes us past the front of the same palace. Built between 1843 and 1856, this Ottoman building with Western influences stands on reclaimed lands that, four hundred years ago, were a bay where the Admiralty anchored its ships.

Ortaköy Mosque from the water, Beşiktaş Istanbul, Türkiye

Ortaköy Mosque – Büyük Mecidiye Mosque
Here, from the water, is the same mosque we saw from the streets the day before.

Mosque on Çamlıca Hill from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Mosque on Çamlıca Hill
On the Asian side of the strait, we can see the Grand Çamlıca Mosque perched high on Çamlıca Hill.

Rambling buildings in Arnavutköy from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Rambling Buildings in Arnavutköy

Consulate General of the Arab Republic of Egypt from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Consulate General of the Arab Republic of Egypt
This beautiful little art nouveau mini-palace was built in 1902 for Princess Amina Ilhamy.

Rumeli Hisar from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Rumeli Hisar – Rumeli Fortress
Evening shadows fall on this fortress complex, built between 1451 and 1452. In the nascent days of the Ottoman Empire, Sultan Mehmed II wanted the then-Byzantine city of Constantinople as his capital. So, to blockage the Bosphorus Strait, the Rumel Fortress was built opposite the older Anadoluhisari Anatolian Fortress – on the other side of the water. Today, the fortress is a popular museum.

The Anatolian Fortress from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Anadoluhisarı – Anatolian Fortress (1393-4)
At the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge we turn around, and there – on the still-sunny Asian side of the waters – is the oldest surviving Turkish structure in Istanbul.

Küçüksu Pavilion from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Küçüksu Pavilion – Küçüksu Kasrı – Littlewater Pavilion
Completed in 1857, this little palace served as a short-stay summer pavilion for various Ottoman sultans. More recently, it has found its way into Hollywood and Bollywood films.

Vahdettin Pavilion from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Asia from the Bosphorus
Golden light colours the Vahdettin Pavilion, or Çengelköy Pavilion, on a hill in Üsküdar district. An inaccurate copy of an older palace, it is an official residence for the President of Türkiye, and is used as a state guest house.

Beylerbeyi Mosque from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Beylerbeyi Mosque

Beylerbeyi Palace from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Beylerbeyi Palace
Another summer residence for the Sultans and visiting dignitaries, this pretty structure was built between 1861-1865.

Sunset over the Bosphorus Bridge, Istanbul, Türkiye

Sunset over Istanbul
As we pass back under the Bosphorus Bridge, the sun is setting over the city.

Şemsi Ahmet Pasha Mosque from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Şemsi Ahmet Pasha Mosque

Fish markets at the Galata Bridge from the Bosphorus, Istanbul, Türkiye

Fresh Fish at the Galata Bridge
It is golden hour as we turn into the Golden Horn, the primary inlet into the Bosphorus. The lights are on at the fish markets and restaurants.

People in silhouette on Galata Bridge, Istanbul, Türkiye

Watchers on the Galata Bridge
We turn around to head back to our pier and people watch from the bridge, silhouetted against the darkening sky.

Naturally, the snacks aboard our cruise were insufficient to hold us; we stopped for gözleme, traditional Turkish flatbread stuffed with spinach and feta before continuing uphill to home.

It was a wonderful introduction to this amazing city – and I couldn’t wait to get back to explore more.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil then,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 27-29September2022

Close up: bracket fungus on a rotting stump, Dover Loop Trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Cana

Nature’s Artworks : Bracket Fungus
The forests of Haida Gwaii, off the northwestern coast of Canada’s British Columbia, are magical. It is easy to imagine mythical creatures making their homes here. This bracket fungus I found while walking the Dover Loop Trail on Moresby Island might be the same type that – according to Haida origin stories – is integral to the very creation of humanity.

Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off the northwestern coast of Canada’s British Columbia (BC), is a land of tall trees.

And stories.

The more I walked through the quiet and magical woods, and the more I learned about the mythical stories that originate here, the more enchanted I became. Haida Gwaii truly got under my skin!

This ancient landscape of old-growth spruce and cedar forest has been home to the Haida people for more than 13,000 years. And, according to their origin stories, their cultural ties to the land go back even further.

Haida Gwaii has many walking trails – but very few roads. I was based in the main town of Daajing Giids on the main northern landmass: Graham Island. Thanks to a local tourist map, I planned a program of hikes for myself that didn’t require camping to complete them, or a four-wheel drive to reach them. Even so, I’m not sure if the car-rental company would have approved the number of kilometres I drove on unsealed roads!

On this particular late-spring day, the car and I had crossed the Skidegate Channel to access Moresby Island to the south (see: Birds and Boats). My intention, after finding some lunch, was to access the moderately-rated Dover Creek Trail. The tracks go by a number names, with AllTrails referring to a 3.4 km (2.1 mi) loop they call the Louise Dover Trail. I followed a similar route, but recorded 5.5 km (3.4 mi) – so I’m not sure where we diverged.

In any event, it was finding magical-looking bracket fungus (polypores) on this path that led me to the story of the all-important Fungus Man.

Fungus Man was a friend of Raven, and together they created the world as we know it.

We have met Raven before (see: Stories in the Rocks and Trees). He is one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, and is frequently described as a “trickster”. Raven is a cultural hero, and can be a magician, a transformer, and a potent creative force. He embodies both beneficial and selfish desires, and many of his stories are cautionary tales.

In this particular legend, however, he is seeking to create humans.

To do this, Raven needs to capture female genitalia from some distant shore. Raven’s attempts to do this have failed, as neither he nor other creatures who have tried to help him have had sufficient supernatural power to enter the region. Only Fungus Man, who paddles a canoe while Raven rides in the bow holding a spear, can overcome the spiritual barriers protecting the area.

As with all myths, there are elements of complex realities in this tale. Like many other scientists, author and mycologist Lawrence Millman suggests that we do owe our existence as we know it to the fungi, and uses the Fungus Man story as an illustration (see: Meet Fungus Man).

I was happy to wander through the woods and enjoy their beauty – without worrying too much about their biological or existential origins.

Join me for some short walks.

Start of the Louise Dover Loop trail into tall trees, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Into the Woods
The trees rise tall all around, and the ground is soft and quiet underfoot.

Signpost on the Louise Dover Loop trail into tall trees, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Dover Trail
This track is named for Louise Dover, a local woman of Haida ancestry.

Haans Creek, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Waterway in the Woods
Sometimes called the Haans Creek Loop, part of the trail meanders along the creek. In the right season, salmon spawn in these waters.

Ferns at the base of mossy trees, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Ferns at the Base
Everything is moist and dimly lit; ferns thrive here.

Greenery on Haans Creek, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Greenery on the Creek
These lands are part of the Damaxyaa Heritage Site, and are protected under the BC Provincial Parks.

Yellow and black Haida trail marker, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Trail Marker
As part of the BC Parks reconciliation action plan, some of the trail markers were designed by renowned Haida artist Ben Davidson (1976–2020).

Bracket fungi on a tree trunk, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Like Faerie Steps up the Tree Trunk
Bracket fungi, also known as shelf or polypore fungi, grow on the trunks and branches of both dead and living trees.

Bracket fungi on a tree trunk, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

More Bracket Fungi
I was fascinated by these tough fungi. One story tells how Raven animated a bracket fungus by drawing a design on it, thereby creating Fungus Man.

Mossy trees and logs, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

In the Trees

Mossy ridged tree trunk, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Textures in a Mossy Trunk
The forest here is a mix of cedar, spruce, and hemlock; I think this is cedar, but I’m never sure!

A single pyrola on the forest floor, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

One-Flowered Pyrola – Moneses Uniflora

Moisture droplets on a bracket fungus, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Droplets on a Bracket Fungus
It’s early afternoon, but there is still moisture on this polypore.

Moisture droplets on a bracket fungus, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Under the Shelf Fungus

Mossy uprooted stump, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Rotting Stump
The cycle of life continues, with mosses, ferns, and saplings rising out of rotting stumps and leaf litter.

Light through the old man

Light and Dark
The afternoon sun shines through the old man’s beard (Alectoria sarmentosa) and the sound of the creek rings through the fresh air.

Mossy ridged tree trunk, Dover Loop trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Rough Trunks

Tall trees on the Onward Point Trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Tall Trees
Later in the day, on my way back to the ferry, I stopped at the short Onward Point Trail which leads through more ferns in the spruce and cedar forest.

View over Skidegate Inlet from Onward Point Trail, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Onward Point Trail Viewing Site
There is a cedar gazebo here, where you can sit and look over Skidegate Inlet. The site is known for birds, seals, and even whales; it was all quiet while I was there.

Ferns, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Ferns at Onward Point
I contented myself with appreciating the light in the ferns …

Seaweed on the rocks, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Rocks Below
… and the waves over the seaweed.

Kwuna ferry landing in evening light, Moresby Island, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

When the Evening Ferry Leaves Without You …
I was at the Kwuna ferry landing in good time, but there were too many cars in front of me! Thankfully, it wasn’t the last ferry of the day, and I had water in my car and an ibook on my phone! (iPhone12Pro)

Evening over the islands in Skidegate Inlet from a BC Ferry, Haida Gwaii BC Canada

Evening over the Islands
Finally, an hour and a half later, it was my turn to cross Skidegate Inlet, back to my base on Graham Island.

Text: Happy Walking!The late-spring evening was still light when I got back to my room – and even better: the local restaurants were still open.

I was able to reflect on the day’s explorations over a glass of wine and a meal of homemade tagliatelle with local cremini mushrooms.

Just perfect!

Photos : 14June2022

A large naval ship and a small outrigger canoe in sorong Harbour, Indonesia

An Indonesian Navy Liquid Oil Support Ship (BCM) and a Traditional Outrigger Canoe
Sorong Harbour, like the Southwest Papuan city itself, is a study in contrasts.

Sorong, the largest city in the newly-formed Indonesian province of Southwest Papua, is the sort of place people usually go through rather than to. As the logistics hub for Indonesia’s thriving eastern oil and gas frontier, it harbours a busy industrial port. For tourists and scientists, it is the gateway to Raja Ampat, a collection of over 1,500 islands famous for its magnificent coral reefs and the richest marine biodiversity on earth.

Unlike most tourists who simply transit, myself and roughly 100 other travellers had limped into harbour on an incapacitated vessel and were anchored there for several days. Our small ship, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, was meant to be in the waters of Raja Ampat. Unfortunately, mechanical, bureaucratic, and communication problems had forced our unexpected return to Sorong, barely a week after we had set off from there.

On the plus side, we were serviced by a wonderful tour crew who did their best to organise impromptu off-vessel excursions using the ship’s tenders. 

One day, we headed to the nearby island of Doom (see: Midday Sun on the Island of Doom). Later, some of us explored another, very different destination: Pulau Soop. Sometimes know as Tsiof, this is a small island with less than 1500 inhabitants 

The next day a small group of us took a cab from Sorong Harbour to the Sapta Ratna Pagoda, a Buddhist landmark attached to the Vihara (Temple) Buddha Jayanti. We then indulged in some shopping for batik fabrics.

Even within these three destinations, the contrasts were remarkable: the island of Doom that I have talked about before (see: Midday Sun on the Island of Doom) has Dutch-influenced colonial architecture and Second World War Japanese war-relics; the soporific Pulau Soop, is quiet with small houses, a simple Lutheran Protestant church, and sandy coconut groves; and finally, the city of Sorong features bustling streets. We passed multiple mosques and churches on our way to its surprising Buddhist landmark.

Outrigger canoes on still blue waters, Coral Triangle, Pulau Soop Indonesia

The Colours and Textures of Fishing Boats
The flaking paint and rusty fittings on the traditional outrigger canoes in the waters around Pulau Soop speak to a simple, laid-back lifestyle.

Wooden jetty over blue waters, Coral Triangle, Pulau Soop Indonesia

A Long Jetty
Fortunately, we had opted for a beach landing – I’m not sure how stable that pier is!

Outrigger canoe on still blue waters, Coral Triangle, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Outrigger at Rest
Seen all across Indonesia, this type of small wooden outrigger boat is known as a jukung, cadik, or kano.

Wooden rowboat on still blue waters, Coral Triangle, Pulau Soop Indonesia

A Boat in the Shallows

Portrait: a woman with a young girl, Pulau Soop Indonesia

A Solemn Sandy Face
Southwest Papua has more than 52 ethnic groups living across its many islands.

A woman cutting a fresh coconut, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Cutting the Coconut
Drinking a freshly cut coconut was the perfect way for me to rehydrate in the equatorial heat – and to contribute to the local economy at the same time.

Broken wooden rowboats in the shade of mangroves on still blue waters, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Dappled Light
Mangroves shade the water’s edge, throwing shadows across the sand.

A beach hut of corrugated sheeting and plastic, Pulau Soop Indon

Metal Sheeting
The huts and houses here are simple affairs making use of ‘found’ materials.

Wooden houses amid coconut palms, Pulau Soop Indonesia

In the Coconuts
Soop’s main settlement is on the north of the island; here in the southeast, mangroves give way to coconut palms and life is quiet.

Colourfully painted sign pointing to Indonesian locations, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Direction Signpost
We are about 4 kilometres (2.5 mi) west of the city of Sorong on the mainland and 2.5 kilometres (1.6 mi) west of the very-different island of Doom that we visited earlier in the day (see: Midday Sun on the Island of Doom). (iPhone15Pro)

Small dried fish, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Fish Drying
Food here is in the sea and in the trees. As I wander past the coconut trees, I find fish on corrugated iron sheeting, drying in the sun.

Clothes dying on bamboo poles, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Washing on the Line
The small houses are neatly marked off from each other.

A small wooden church, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Marthen Luther Church
Lutheran missionaries made inroads into this region in the mid-1800s, and over 60% of people in Southwest Papua are Christian.

Portrait: Two young women, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Young Women

Portrait: A woman and her young child, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Mother and Child
The local women are happy to show off their children; the little ones are less certain.

Young boys silhouetted against a blue sky, Pulau Soop Indonesia

Kids Sending Us Off
The older children rush to the jetty to wave us off as our tender leaves the island.

Sailing vessels at anchor, Sorong Harbour, Indonesia

Malaillo Wooden Liveaboard Schooner
The next day, our tenders take us into the busy Sorong Harbour, where the ships range from traditional fishing vessels to oil tankers and elegant luxury tourist boats like these ones.

Mosque dome and power lines, Sorong, Indonesia

Scenes from a Taxi: Mosques Everywhere
Our ship’s passengers head off in all directions; four of us jump in a taxi to visit a Buddhist temple I had spotted on TripAdvisor. We pass all manner of mosques and churches on the busy streets enroute.

Sapta Ratna Pagoda, Sorong, Indonesia

Sapta Ratna Pagoda
It was a steep and winding drive up to the temple complex – which seems to go by many names. After checking in at the office and paying a small fee, we climbed up to the pagoda itself.

View over Sorong Harbour from Vihara Buddha Jayanti, Indonesia

View from Vihara Buddha Jayanti
From the top of the stairs, we have quite a view over Sorong Harbour and the many islands there. (iPhone15Pro)

A kneeling woman in prayer, Sapta Ratna Pagoda, Sorong, Indonesia

Prayers in the Temple
The pagoda was built in 1992 as a place to store the ashes of deceased local Buddhists – however, as Buddhists represent only 0.1% of the population of Southwest Papua, it doesn’t get used often for that purpose.

Giant bell at the Vihara Buddha Jayant, Sorong, Indonesia

Giant Bell
The whole complex is built in Chinese Buddhist style. Back outside, we ring the bell for luck and blessings. (iPhone15Pro)

Blue-painted fishing boats, Sorong Harbour, Indonesia

Boats on Sorong Harbour
After spending some time – and a bit of money – in a local batik shop, we return to the docks to wait for our transfer.

Indonesian tanker Indian Transport 02 in Sorong Harbour, Intonesia.

Ships on the Water
Tankers and other industrial vessels are at rest in the port.

View over Sorong from the harbour, Indonesia

Over the Waterfront to the Pagoda
As our tender pulls away from the harbour, we have views over the ramshackle waterfront buildings, and the pagoda high on the hill.

Bethel Doom Christian Church, Pulau Doom, Indonesia

GKI Bethel Doom
On the way back to our ship, we pass the island Doom with its Protestant church standing prominently on the hill.

Sunset over the waters of the Coral Triangle, Sorong Harbour, Indonesia.

Sunset over the Seas
Night falls quickly in the tropics. Back on our ship, we are treated to beautiful orange skies. (iPhone15Pro)

It was very much a case of making lemonade from lemons: the shore trips were interesting and enjoyable.

Even so, we all hoped that the mechanical gods would line up, and we would finally be on our way to the nutmeg-rich Banda Islands that were a central focus of our planned itinerary.

Text: Safe Sailing

Until then,

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 28-29March2025

View over the tea plantations of Munnar to the town below, Kerala India.

The Rolling Hills of Munnar
In the Western Ghats of Kerala, India, the mountains brush the clouds, the rivers and roads wind in all directions, and the hills are blanketed by tea bushes and silver oak trees.

I read a lot of historical fiction growing up. Much of it took place in “The Colonies”.

So, I always had a fascination with India’s many Hill Stations.

Finally! A couple of years ago, I had my chance: I was booked on two trips in India’s south, with a four week interval between them. To part-fill that gap, I made forays into the hills of Kerala; more specifically, into the Western Ghat Mountains.

My first hill-stay was in Munnar, a former resort for the elite of the British Raj. Although long inhabited, the region between Cochin and Madurai was first formally surveyed by Benjamin Swayne Ward from 1816. In 1817, he established a camp at the confluence of three mountain rivers: the Muthirapuzha, the Nallathanni, and the Kundali. This gave the colonial settlement its name: the word munnar means ‘three rivers’ in Malayalam.

Soon, the hardships faced by the early explorers in what they called dark impenetrable forests, passed. Before long, the trees were being cleared, and by the 1880s, tea plantations were established across the landscape.

Munnar itself is situated at around 1,600 metres (5,200 ft), with the surrounding hills rising to 2,695 meters (8,842 ft). It boasts a much cooler climate than the coast, which made it an attractive summer resort for the British during their rule. It continues to attract urban Indians and international visitors.

I had found a timeshare spot in the village of Chinnakanal (Club Mahindra Munnar Resort), up in the hills about 30 minutes outside Munnar. I had an arrangement with a Kerala driver, and after my first group tour finished (see: A Morning in Historic Fort Kochi), we set off west into the mountains.

View over a car dashboard onto the Neriamangalam bridge over the Periyar River, India

Scenes From a Car: A Bridge over the Periyar River
It is bliss not having to drive! Especially in India where signposts can be indecipherable and adherence to road rules is vague at best. About half way, in the village of Neriamangalam, we cross Kerala’s longest and most important river. (iPhone12Pro)

Valara Waterfall, National Highway 85, India

Valara Waterfall
A short while later we stop – like every other driver – to admire the waterfall on the Deviyar River, tumbling down through the jungle next to National Highway 85. (iPhone12Pro)

Two bonnet macaques, Valara Waterfall, National Highway 85, India

Bonnet Macaques
I was more interested in these primates – which I take to be a pair. (iPhone12Pro)

Two bonnet macaques, Valara Waterfall, National Highway 85, India

Red Face and Big Eyes
Bonnet macaques are endemic to southern India. A high number of blood capillaries under the thin skin of their faces flushes red easily with their emotions. (iPhone12Pro)

View over a car dashboard into the Western Ghats of Idukki, India

Afternoon Light over the Mountains 
As we climb higher into the mountains, the clouds lower to meet us. (iPhone12Pro)

Munnar below the tea plantations on the hillsides, Kerala, India

Munnar Colony
The buildings of the town are already far below in the valley. (iPhone12Pro)

Colourful headscarves visible in a tea plantation, Kerala, India

Tea Harvesting
When I spot my first tea-pickers, I have to pull out the actual SLR cameras. But, the pickers are a long way away, and we still have driving to do.

A heavy roller on a roadway, Munnar Kerala, India

Roadworks and Rain
With two monsoon seasons, roads are regularly in need of repair. (iPhone12Pro)

A whiteout on a Munnar road, Kerala, India

Visibility Zero
Munnar averages only two days of rain every February; as we drove into the clouds, I could only hope the rest of my trip would be clear! (iPhone12Pro)

Cottage bedroom, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

This Will Do Nicely!
My spacious cottage was a welcome treat after a long day in the back seat of a car. (iPhone12Pro)

View over winding roads and tea bushes, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

From my Balcony
Finally! In the morning, the clouds lift and I have a view over the tea plantation as I drink an instant coffee on my balcony. (iPhone12Pro)

A bonnet macaque in a tree, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

A Lone Bonnet Macaque
I’d been warned not to take food onto the balcony; macaques are opportunists. (iPhone12Pro)

View over tea bushes, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

Green and Green
After the long road the day before, I’ve given my driver a couple of days off. I set off from my room on foot to explore the neighbourhood.

Tea plantations on the hillsides, Idukki, Kerala, India

Winding Roads
Everywhere I look, the mountains rise to meet the clouds.

Orange daylily, Idukki, Kerala, India

A Splash of Colour
A daylily (Hemerocallis) makes a nice contrast to all the green.

Silky oak trees and tea bushes, Munnar, Kerala, India

Through the Teas and Trees
I love the humped patterns made by the tidy evergreen tea plants (Camellia sinensis). Silver oak trees (Grevillea robusta), native to Australia, are dotted around the plantations to provide shelter from strong winds and shade from the sun.

Red-whiskered bulbul on a wire, Munnar, Kerala, India

Red-Whiskered Bulbul – Pycnonotus Jocosus
It was a melodious warble that caught my ear before I spotted this medium-sized beauty overhead. My lenses are not bird-worthy, so I’m always pleased to catch something!

Silky oak trees and tea bushes, Munnar, Kerala, India

Rolling, Rolling …

Small bird silhouetted against the sky, Munnar, Kerala, India

Bird on a Wire
Birds are everywhere – mostly too small for me to photograph, and too distant for me to identify.

A brindle dog on a rough road, Idukki, Kerala, India

A Lone Dog on a Rough Road
I’m always a bit leery of wandering dogs …

A brindle dog on a rough road, Idukki, Kerala, India

Local Dog
I guess he is wary of me too; he stops to check me out and then saunters off.

Portrait: Smiling man inside a grocery store, Idukki district, Kerala, India

A Shopkeeper and his Very Tidy Shop
I finally find a local shop: impossibly tidy, and stacked with many products I don’t recognise. (iPhone12Pro)

Inside a grocery store, Idukki district, Kerala, India

A Tidy Shop
I continue to photograph as the owner makes me a masala chai.

Bottles of layered herbs inside a grocery store, Idukki district, Kerala, India

Herbs in Recycled Bottles
It pays to ask! This is NOT a cooking spice mix – when combined with coconut oil, it is a hair tonic!! I leave the store with fresh nuts and locally-made chocolate.

Portrait: two young men in chef

Cooks at the Resort
These young men were the highlight of my stay at this resort: they cheerfully explained all the exotic dishes they were preparing and let me taste-test. (iPhone12Pro)

The tea plantation shrouded in fog, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

Another Overcast Day in the Tea Plantation
The next morning the rains were back! This was my view from the restaurant at breakfast. (iPhone12Pro)

Wet concrete stairs, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

… and Up again …
But, at least I was getting some exercise: it was a long walk down to breakfast, and it seemed even further going back up! (iPhone12Pro)

Close up: Red hibiscus flower, Club Mahindra Resort Munnar, Kerala, India

A Bright Spot in an Otherwise Dull Day
A hibiscus in a pot beside the staircase made a cheerful spot of colour – and a good excuse to stop and catch my breath. (iPhone12Pro)

Apart from myself, all the visitors to the resort were Indian family groups. Hardly the romantic idyll of historical fiction, but a wonderful place to stay, even so!

I had my fingers crossed for better weather as I hoped to explore further afield the next day. 

Text: Happy TravelsUntil then, 

Happy travels!

Pictures: 02-04February2023