Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

Those Iconic Fishing Nets!
You could be nowhere else in the world: those distinctive nets, made of teak wood and bamboo poles, suspended over the Laccadive Sea are emblematic of Kochi (Cochin) in the Southwest Indian state of Kerala.

I loved the unique charm of Fort Kochi (Cochin).

Kochi, the financial and commercial capital of Kerala, is a major port city on the Malabar Coast, home to shipping, industry, and the only international marina in India. Called the Queen of the Arabian Sea, with its commanding location on the southwest coast of the Indian peninsula, Kochi has long been a strategic maritime centre, boasting a rich and remarkably cosmopolitan history.

Kochi and ports to the north of it were known to mariners from ancient times and were the centre of the Indian spice trade for many centuries. However, the other ports were destroyed by massive floods in 1341, leading to Kochi’s dominance.

The Arab, Chinese, and European merchants who visited and lived here left their mark in the historic streets around the old waterfront area now known as Fort Kochi. This charming seaside district, in the vicinity of the ruins of Fort Emmanuel (Fort Manuel), is known for its Dutch, Portuguese, and British colonial architecture – some dating to the 15- and 1600s.

Even the magnificent heritage hotel I was staying in was originally built by the Dutch in the 1860s (see: Fort Kochi Heritage Hotel). Although it is upgraded to include modern comforts, it still boasts Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences.

I was travelling with a small group. We had arrived in Fort Kochi the evening before, in time for a piquant South Indian meal followed by a traditional Kathakali dance performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali).

This morning saw us in our walking shoes, ready to explore the streets of the old city.

Naturally, our first stop was on the waterfront, to see the cheenavala – the unique fishing nets introduced to Kochi in the 14th century by the Chinese. Still in use today, these lift nets made of teak and bamboo are a symbol of the city and a popular tourist drawcard.

Rickety pathway to the Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

A Busy Waterfront
This is India, so I’m not surprised by the heat and trash and chaos on the Fort Kochi waterfront.

Boats on the waterfront, Vasco De Gama Beach, Kochi, Kerala India

Looking After the Boats
The waterfront is crowded with boats and people working them.

Egrets on standing poles, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Ships on the Horizon
Cattle egrets (Ardea coromanda) rest on poles in the harbour, while rusty working boats chug in through the sea haze.

Boats on the waterfront, Vasco De Gama Beach, Kochi, Kerala India

Vasco de Gama Beach

Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

Chinese Fishing Nets – Cheenavala
These heavy nets are used throughout southern China, but Kerala is the only place you will see them in India.

Portrait: Indian fisherman in a white head-wrap, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Fisherman
Each of the lift nets is operated by four to six fishermen; they are happy to pause the heavy work for a chat.

Boat on the waters off Fort Kochi, Kerala India

A Colourful Boat on the Waters

Rusty steam boilers in Kochi Dry Dock, Kerala India

Steam Boilers in Kochi Dry Dock
The rusty boilers on display on Vasco de Gama Beach are a reminder of the city’s maritime industry. They were used for twenty years – starting from 1956 – to power the cranes working the dry docks.

Front view of Church of Saint Francis, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Church of Saint Francis
Our next stop was at one of India’s oldest European churches. St. Francis was originally built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars. The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, who died in the city in 1524, was originally interred here.

Portrait: Indian guide inside a dark St. Francis Church, Kochi, Kerala India

Lucas inside St. Francis
In the relatively simple interior, our guide gives us a rundown of the history and architecture of the reconditioned building. When the Protestant Dutch captured Kochi from the Portuguese in 1663, they demolished all the Roman Catholic churches except this one – which they converted.

Hindu musicians in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Musicians in the Street
Back in the streets, a Hindu festival is taking place.

Indian men blowing kombu horns in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Blowing the Kombu and Horns
These large curved brass horns have been used in South India since about the 6th century. They are commonly played – along with other wind instruments and the various drums – during Hindu rituals, and the effect is deafening.

Portrait of a young smiling Indian man, Kochi, Kerala

Young Hindu Priest

Temple elephant in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Temple Elephant
Although the practice is coming under scrutiny these days, many Hindu temples still have one or more elephants – believed to be sacred reincarnations or representations of Lord Ganesha. During festivals, the elephants – in their ornate golden headwear – typically make a neighbourhood circuit.

Two Hindu priests astride an elephant in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Priests
While the mahout walks below, two priests ride the elephant through the streets.

Mattancherry Palace in the trees, Kochi, Kerala India

Mattancherry Palace
Our next stop was at a small palace. Built in traditional Kerala style: a quadrangular structure with a courtyard in the middle, the building itself is fairly unprepossessing from the outside.

View over Mattancherry rooftops from the Dutch Palace, Kochi, Kerala India

Rooftops from the Palace
Commonly called the Dutch Palace, the palace was actually constructed by the Portuguese around 1545. It was built as a gift for the Maharaja of Kochi, to appease him after they plundered a nearby temple.

View over Edakochi Kayal through a barred Dutch Palace window, Kochi, Kerala India

Edakochi Kayal from a Palace Window

Brass items on display in the Dutch Palace, Kochi, Kerala India

Artefacts
The palace is known for its delicate woodwork and its many murals depicting royal life. It also houses some historical items.

View over Mattancherry through a barred Dutch Palace window, Kochi, Kerala India

Mattancherry from a Palace Window
I was most taken by the window seats – all graced with beautiful views.

Wooden panel in front of the Cochin Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

Cochin Paradesi Synagogue
Our last stop was in Mattancherry Jew Town – named for the Jewish community who settled in Kochi from as early as the 12th century. The first were known as Malabar Jews; they claimed direct lineage to King Solomon. Later, Sephardi Jews – who became known as Paradesi Jews (or Foreign Jews) – made their way to Kochi after their 1492 expulsion from the Iberian Peninsula.

Detail: blue and cream tiles in the Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

Tiles in the Synagogue
The synagogue features hundreds of 18th-century hand-painted Chinese porcelain tiles, with no two exactly the same. (iPhone12Pro)

Prayer painted on a wall in Hebrew, Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

A Pillar and a Prayer
“Hear Israel, O our God …” (iPhone12Pro)

View down Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Jew Street
Back outside, the street is full of fascinating shops to explore.

Colourful domes of powder, Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Perfumes and Powders
These are the sorts of talc powders that are used to decorate doorsteps – or elephants. (iPhone12Pro)

Environmental portrait: Indian woman outside her needle-ware shop, Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Craftswoman
I spent some time chatting with this woman, and admiring her fine needlework. She learned her craft as an apprentice to Sarah, the old woman who became the last remaining Jewish resident of this district.

Fort Kochi is truly a rich and remarkably cosmopolitan historic town – it’s no wonder ranked it highly in National Geographic’s Top 25 Tourist Destinations To Explore In 2020 and continues to attract tourists from India and around the world.

Text: Happy TravelsI’d go back!

Photos: 31January2023

 

Agia Paraskevi church, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece,

The American novelist, short story writer, and essayist, Henry Valentine Miller (1891-1980) was enamoured of Greece.

I must say: I was too.

I didn’t travel in the same style as Miller: he was there for nine months – originally at the invitation of author Lawrence Durrell – and spent his time in the company of writers and philosophers. I had only one month, and alternated my time between solo exploration and small-group travel.

On this particular day, I was on Naxos in the Cyclades, where I had already been treated to a number of gems (see: Jewel of the Cyclades). I had a free day on my own, and decided to brave the local buses and take a trip into mountains at the centre of the island to visit the fabled marble village of Apeiranthos (Apíranthos or Aperathos).

Only 28 km (17 mi) north-east of where I was staying (as the crow flies?), it was an hour’s drive, grinding up hill and around bends on an old bus full of locals. The town itself – when you get there – straddles an altitude of between 570 and 640 m (1870 and 2100 ft) on the flank of Mount Fanari; not that high perhaps, but having come from sea level, I felt the difference in air quality and temperature.

The similarities of the dialect and traditions to those in mountainous Cretan villages has led some historians to believe that Apeiranthos was built by Cretans, probably during the 10th century; I’ll leave that to the experts (see: Apeiranthos village).

What fascinated me was the abundant use of marble in the buildings – some dating back to the Venetian Empire of between 1207 and 1537. Quality marble has been quarried on the island since antiquity, and its skilled stone carvers and craftsmen have used it in everything from luminous sculptures to roof tiles and pavers. In Apeiranthos, marble is everywhere you look: the walls and window frames of the houses, the steps and pavers in the winding laneways, and – naturally – the goods in the tourist shops.

When I visited, the world was still reeling from Covid19 shutdowns, so the museums and the Woven Products Cooperative were all closed. I contented myself with wandering through the narrow marble laneways and climbing up and down endless steps and hills.

It is no wonder the locals stay fit!

View over the west coast of Naxos from a mountain bus, Greece

Coastal Villages
As the bus climbs into the hills, I get a beautiful view over the countryside. (iPhone12Pro)

Rambling whitewashed house on a mountainside, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Houses on the Mountainside
Descending from the bus in Apeiranthos, I walked up the roadway to get my bearings. High on a hill, a whitewashed home stands against the blue Mediterranean midday sky.

The view back over the Aegean Sea, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The View
Back downhill, islands dot the waters of the south Aegean Sea.

Agia Paraskevi church, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece,

Church on a Hill
Around a bend, I find the whitewashed Agia Paraskevi church standing against the dark blue sky. This little Greek Orthodox church – dating to 1720 – is dedicated to Saint Paraskevi of Rome, a venerated Christian martyr from the 2nd century.

Elderly man walking in the street, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Everyday Life
Around 1000 people live in Apeiranthos; they certainly get their exercise, walking the hilly streets.

Decorative metal doorway in a marble wall, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Metal Doorway in a Marble Wall
Naxos was the first Greek island to work with marble: in Apeiranthos, almost everything is made of it – including the walls of houses.

Wooden door in a stone wall, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Textured Walls and Door
Clearly, not all the buildings lining the winding laneways are occupied.

Village walkway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Between the Houses
Walls, stairs, and even the street pavers in this village are all made of marble.

Village walkway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Narrow Walkway
Many of the double-story houses and laneways here go back to the days of the Venetian Empire.

People walking down a narrow stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Tourists on the Steps
Stairs are everywhere, leading you through the narrow winding alleys.

Potted plant on a worn stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Plants on the Steps
Many of the stairways are worn and wonky, but potted and hanging plants add colour and charm.

Arch between houses, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Archway and Stairs
Arches and tiny tunnels pass between the multi-story houses.

Detail: section of a wooden door and fabric tie, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The Texture of Peeling Paint

Arch between houses, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Another Archway and More Stairs
No two archways are the same.

White Orthodox dome on a blue sky, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Church Rooftop
Looking up from the narrow laneways, I find another Orthodox dome against the cloudless sky.

View over mills, a church, and the countryside, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

View over the Countryside
The ruins of old stone mills dot the hillside; the Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa church has a commanding presence on the main street below.

Narrow stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Marble Stairs
It is like being in a labyrinth! Lanes, stairs, …

Marble arches, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Marble Arches
… and quirky arches lead off in all directions.

Stairs to the market, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Down to the Market
Thanks to my walking app working like a breadcrumb trail, I found my way back to the main street, and set off in search of lunch.

People outside a taverna in the market, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Sagging Stairs and Taverna
The next set of steps looked like it was in danger of collapse.

Front of a marble and ceramics boutique, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Local Marble and Ceramics
A shop on the main street showcases the local stone-craft …

Front of a marble and ceramics boutique, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Pottery and Plates
Fortunately for me, most pieces were too big and too heavy to fit in my suitcase.and Textures

Marble stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

More Stairs Down …
Mоst οf the villаge is οnly aсcessiblе by fοot, with cars аnd buses relegated to the main roаd and the outskirts.

Marble stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

… and Up Again!
That, and the gleaming marble everywhere, is probably why it is regularly called the most picturesque village on Naxos.

Church of Panagia Aperathitissa, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa
Near my bus stop, one of the oldest churches on the island draws me in with the tolling of its bells.

Three people with bell pulls, Church of Panagia Aperathitissa, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The Bells Toll
An elderly woman has died, and her relatives ring the church bells as part of the funeral service.

View over Chalki Village, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Over Chalki Village
Being located on the side of of a mountain, Apeiranthos is also known for its views. Before the bus comes, I get one last look at the next village below. (iPhone12Pro)

It’s a charming village, seemingly untouched by time.

Naturally, I couldn’t completely resist: I went home with a small piece of inlaid marble.
Text: Keep smiling

And a smile!

Until next time…

Pictures: 23September2022

Portrait: Bald eagle, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Casey the Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus Leucocephalus) 
Casey, who has a non-repairable dislocated wing, is a permanent resident and Animal Ambassador at the North Island Animal Rescue Centre on Vancouver Island, BC Canada.

Life in the wilderness can be tough for animals. Any injury or abnormality can be life-threatening, leaving them unable to fend for themselves.

Life in the wilds is tough for photographers as well. While I’m out bush-walking (eg: Long Roads and Short Walks #2), I’m not sharp enough to identify the birds or animals I hear, and not quick enough to photograph the few I actually see.

So, a well-maintained and attractive animal refuge, where animals are are on view and cared for until they can be released back into their normal habitat, is a win-win.

I was staying with family in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, on the west coast of British Columbia (BC) Canada. While I was there, I heard from friends that the North Island Animal Rescue Centre in nearby Errington was well worth a visit.

Run by the non-profit North Island Wildlife Recovery Association (NIWRA), which was founded in 1985, the eight-acre centre opened in 1986. Although the Centre is a bit off the beaten track, it has looked after animals from as far away as Saskatchewan.

The Centre’s stated mission is: To care for ill, injured, and orphaned wildlife and to educate the public on wildlife and environmental issuesOver its years of operation, it has expanded its facilities and scope, but continues caring for animals with a range of needs and reintroducing them to the wild when possible. Under expert guidance, an army of volunteers provide public and school tours, help with animal care, and look after the gift shop and the premises.

I was most impressed by the beautifully laid out grounds, the attractive cages the animals were in, and the informative and engaging signposting everywhere.

Do come along to visit some Western Canadian wildlife:

Display hall, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Entry Displays
Entry into the centre is through a light and airy hallway, built in local timbers and featuring taxidermied examples of some of the local wildlife.

Taxidermied owls, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Display Case
Birds – especially owls and other raptors – are the most common residents at the centre. They are elusive in the wild, and aside from the very distinctive bald eagles, I seldom know what raptor I’m seeing as they circle high overhead.

A taxidermied sea wolf, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Sea Wolf – Canis Lupus Crassodon
Vancouver Coastal or Vancouver Island sea wolves are endemic to this region. A unique subspecies of wolf, they are semi-aquatic and live on a diet that is almost completely marine-based. They play an important role in the myths and spiritual beliefs of the local Indigenous peoples, and are often represented in their art forms.

Square wood and wire enclosure, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Enclosure
I loved the leafy environment, and the aesthetic of the enclosures.

Farley the great gray owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Great Gray Owl – Strix Nebulosa
Farley here is from Mainland BC where he was hit by a car, causing irreparable wing damage. Great gray owls are the largest owls in mainland BC, and not found in the wild on Vancouver Island.

Raven in an enclosure, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Common or Northern Raven – Corvus Corax
Shooting pictures through enclosure wiring presents its own set of challenges. Raised in captivity, this bird never learned how to find food on its own.

Peregrine falcon, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Peregrine Falcon – Falco Peregrinus
Patrick is a captive-bred falcon who came to the Centre because he suffers seizures that make him ineffective as a falconry bird.

Portrait: Snowy owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Snowy Owl – Bubo Scandiaca
Elsa the snowy owl was found on the ground, weak from starvation and unable to fly. It’s unlikely that she will ever be well enough to survive in the wild.

Great horned owls, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Great Horned Owls – Bubo Virginianus
Boo and Spook are like many of the owls who come to the centre with eye and/or wing injuries, or because they were raised in captivity and can’t adapt to the wild.

A wooden teepee sculpture, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Secret Garden

A bench and chairs under ivy, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

A Quiet Corner
The whole property feels calm and invites reflection.

White raven, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Raven – Corvus Corax
Blizzard is a common raven with leucism, a condition similar to albinism that occurs about 1 in 30,000 births. This partial lack of pigmentation makes the birds more visible to predators and more susceptible to harmful UV radiation from the sun. While they feature in Greek mythology and local Indigenous origin stories, they are sometimes rejected socially by other birds.

Portrait: Bald eagle, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Bald Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucocephalus
These beautiful birds are found across most of North America, mainly near large bodies of water. Their numbers are increasing since the banning of DDT in 1972. The Centre cares for a huge number of eagles, who arrive with a range of ailments, including electric shock, gunshot wounds, broken bones, and/or lead poisoning. In 1991 the Centre built an Eagle Flight Enclosure – the largest of its kind in Canada – where recovering birds can build strength before their release. The Annual Eagle Release takes place in spring when the birds have the best chance of success because the herring are running, providing plenty of food.

Squirrel on the grass, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Eastern Gray Squirrel – Sciurus Carolinensis
Even though they are introduced and considered invasive, these squirrels are cute.

A long fallen log on the grass, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Nature’s Sculpture

Picnic table and an Easter Island style head, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Picnic Table

Portrait: a little lizard on a log, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Common Wall Lizard – Podarcis Muralis
I love how animal sanctuaries attract wild birds and critters.

Daisies and California poppies in bloom, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Spring Flowers

Western painted turtle on a log, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Western Painted Turtle – Chrysemys Picta
These turtles are endangered on Vancouver Island. They are challenged for limited resources by released non-native pet-store turtles like the popular red-eared sliders.

Ravensong canoe, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Ravensong
This 40 foot Tlingit/Tsimshian-style war canoe, carved and painted in 1993 by Tsimshian-Norwegian artist William “Bill” Helin, had pride of place at the 2010 Olympic Pan Pacific Hotel Exhibition.

Ravensong canoe, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Bill Helin
In addition to writing and illustrating children’s story books and creating art and jewelry, Bill is part-time Artist in Residence at the Centre, carving and painting on site, and leading traditional cultural drumming and canoe workshops.

Metal rooster, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Metal Rooster
Every corner brings a new surprise: like this quirky farmyard decor.

Barn owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

American Barn Owls – Tyto Furcata
Brothers Jelly and Bean were bred in captivity – and are therefore unable to hunt. They came to the Centre in 2009.

American black bear behind a screen, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

American Black Bear – Ursus Americanus
It’s a sign of the Centre’s success that all the rescued bears – except this one – had been released back to the wild. Rae, who doesn’t much like the limelight, was found on Vancouver Island alongside the highway. She was underweight and unsteady – and still suffers epilepsy, likely from head trauma.

I really enjoyed my time at the Centre. If I lived on the Island, I’d be a regular visitor! I was so impressed with the whole operation that I slipped some money into the donation box before leaving.

Until next time,

Tread Softly!

Pictures: 18June2024

Portrait: Western Papuan man in dark paint and a cassowary headdress, Mansinam, Western Papua, Indonesia.

Warrior in Feathers
The tropical rain didn’t dampen the fighting spirit of the fearsome dancers who welcomed us to the village of Mansinam in Western Papua, Indonesia.

It is remote. And rugged.

We were met with a mock war-dance: warriors sporting black body paint and carrying bamboo spears and arrows charged at us, while other villagers crowned in feathers danced and sang.

Welcome to West Papua!

The island of New Guinea has been populated for tens of thousands of years – mostly by unique, semi-isolated tribal groups of ethnic Papuans. Little was known about the eastern half of what is the world’s second-largest island until the 19th century, when it was split between German New Guinea in the north, and the British Territory of Papua in the south. Those eastern territories were later governed by Australia before becoming the Independent State of Papua New Guinea (see: Innocent Eyes and Headhunters) in 1975.

The western portion of the island, on the other hand, was visited regularly by European sailors from the late 1500s. Those merchant-sailors were searching for exotic spices – particularly nutmeg – which were only available in this region. The Dutch claimed dominance of the spice wars, and annexed the western part of New Guinea into the colony of Dutch East Indies (for a history of the Spice Wars, see: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg).

The Dutch governed the region until 1962, after which it was granted to Indonesia.

Pulau MansinamMansinam Island – is a small island in Doreri Bay, just east of Manokwari City, West Papua. It marks the entry-point of Christianity into Papua. In 1855, three German-born missionaries of a Dutch Lutheran denomination, landed in Mansinam. Linguists and Bible translators, the two men – Carl Williem Ottow and Johan Gottlod Geissler – are credited with the growth of Christianity in the region. (The wife of Ottow, who was also a missionary, seems to be mostly forgotten.) They are still celebrated on the island every year on February 5th, the anniversary of their arrival.

A giant Jesus figure – which Lonely Planet calls a wannabe Rio de Janeiro statue – dominates a hill as the island’s centrepiece and a tribute to this heritage.

That very-white statue, and the newly built modern Christian church nearby, stand in bold contrast to the tribal welcome that had greeted us.

Garuda Boeing 737-800 at the Darwin airport departures, Northern Territory, Australia.

Morning on the Darwin Tarmac
My trip started early, with a charter Boeing 737-800 flight from Darwin, Northern Territory, Australia.

Australian Red Ensign flying against a grey sky, Indonesia.

Flying the Flag
The ship I joined, the Coral Geographer, is registered under a Australian maritime flag.

Stateroom, Coral Geographer, Indonesia

Home for the Duration
We sail out of the Port of Sorong in West Papua, Indonesia in the afternoon …

Morning through a portal, Doberai Peninsula, Indonesia.

Through the Portal
… and the next morning finds us on the Pacific Ocean above the Doberai Peninsula.

Manokwari Barat from a stateroom, Bird

From my Room
In the waters off Manokwari Barat, I can see the sun shining over the jungled shores, beaches, and small villages at water’s edge.

Coral under water, Bird

The First Snorkel
Inside its protective waterproof casing, my iPhone struggled to focus on the abundant fish and corals, but I salvaged the odd shot as a record of my first underwater experience.

Traditionally-dressed warriors, waterfront, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Warriors Welcome
Our ship docks in Mansinam, and we are treated to a traditional welcome …

Portrait: Traditionally-dressed warrior, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Warrior in Paint
… with singers and dancers – and warriors in black paint and beads, brandishing weapons.

Four Papuan girls standing at a waterfront rail, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Girls on the Rail
I think everyone in the community has come out to watch us watching them!

Three Papuan girls with a toddler posing, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

West Papuan Girls
Many are happy to pose for the camera.

Two Papuan girls posing, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Friends Posing

Two Papuan girls posing, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Two Girls

Traditionally-dressed performers, waterfront, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Welcome
Warriors, dancers, drummers, and singers continue their welcome performance.

Portrait: Boy in a traditional headdress blowing a conch, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Blowing the Shell
The blowing of the conch signals the official welcome, …

Environmental portrait: Papuan man with a microphone, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Nixon
… and a local guide describes events for us.

Traditionally-dressed performers, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Dancing in the Rain
We move under cover, and are introduced to another local dance.

Traditionally-dressed girls dancing, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Girls Dancing
The performers in traditional dress seem unconcerned by the warm, but drenching, tropical rains.

Papuans doing a jumping dance, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Dancing in a Row
A jumping up-and-down dance performed to song reminded me of one I’d seen the Huli Wigmen perform in the Highlands of Papua New Guinea – to the east on this lage island (see: A Sing Sing, a Mumu and some Cautionary Tales).

Environmental portrait: Papuan man singing in profile, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Feathers in the Rain

Environmental portrait: Papuan man and woman singing in the rain, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Singing in the Rain

Jesus statue over the trees, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Meet Jesus
Once we are duly welcomed, we are able to walk up the hill to a locally popular Christian pilgrimage site.

Little frog in a person

Little Frog
We stop to admire the fauna.

Jesus statue on a stepped pedestal, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Jesus on the Hill
The statue at the top of the hill is certainly a commanding presence.

White statue of a woman in draped clothing, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Like Versailles
The surrounding gardens are full of Western influences.

Portrait: Two young girls, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Young Girls
Back at the statue, a couple of local girls are not troubled by the rain and pose happily.

Environment portrait: Three young girls, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Girls with Local Berries
A friend joins them, and they all enjoy berries they have picked from a local tree.

Children running on the path downhill, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

On the Path Downhill

Circular statue of people looking for food, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Supplication
The local guide told me this statue represented people looking for food and help; I could find no further information online.

Modern Christian church, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Church in the Rain
Further down the hill, I stop to admire the new church. Apparently, the Indonesian Government contributed to this building, which replaces an older one that has become too small for the growing Christian population.

Smiling man selling crafts, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Craft Seller
Everywhere I look, I see the red and damaged gums that are evidence of chewing areca nut (Areca catechu) wrapped in betel leaves (Piperaceae).

Portrait: Warrior in a feathered headdress, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Warrior in the Rain

Portrait: Warrior in a black paint, Mansinam, West Papua Indonesia.

Warrior in Betel
The man who welcomed us with a bow and arrow has divested himself of his feathered headdress. He gives me a big betel-stained smile as I head back to my ship.

Truly a study in cultural contrasts!

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 20-22March2025

Through a patterned window, over the red-tiled rooftops of Cahors, France.

Over the Rooftops
How lucky am I? This is the view from the room I was staying in the historic centre of medieval Cahors in the south of France.

I love how European cities have protected their historic centres.

And, I love how one doesn’t have to forgo any modern creature comforts to enjoy these old quarters!

Cahors, near Toulouse in the Occitan Region of Southern France, features an old-town centre of half-timbered houses, Renaissance windows, and narrow alleyways.

I had never heard of Cahors – although I’d been in the general region many times before (eg: Weekly Wanders Southern France). On this trip, I took the train south from Paris to visit a friend; one of the beauties of having been an Expat is having friends who live in some less-travelled corners of the world.

Cahors truly was a delight! I’ve posted before about Pont Valentré, the fortified bridge from the middle ages that has become the symbol of the city (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) and about the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors), which – like the bridge – is UNESCO-Heritage Listed as part of the French portion of the pilgrim paths to Santiago de Compostela.

I was staying right in the midst of it!

I was lodging in a beautifully modern, retrofitted apartment in a preserved, period-building in the medieval quarter of town. The one bedroom apartment (Bel Appartement), which is usually rented out, belongs to my friend and her partner, and is a short walk from their place.

I was impressed with the whole of the historic town, and marvelled at how all the modern conveniences were nestled into priceless old building of great heritage value.

It was autumn, and so it rained. A lot. But It was still a pleasure walking the cobbled streets among buildings that date back centuries. Join me:

Pont Valentré, Cahors France

Pont Valentré
First port-of-call on any walk around Cahors is the beautifully preserved bridge that pilgrims have crossed since it was opened in 1350 (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge).

Clock tower from the Gambetta boys

Lycée Gambetta Clock Tower
I started my wet-weather explorations early – following my interests rather than the map. The clock tower from the Gambetta boys’ high school caught my eye. I don’t know when it was built, but the building operated as a Jesuit school between 1604 and 1762 – and currently houses a mixed high school.

Place François Mitterrand, Cahors, France

Place François Mitterrand
A walk to the Tourist Office (in the building in the background) takes me through the square named for France’s longest-serving president.

Statue of Léon Gambetta, Place François Mitterrand, Cahors, France

Léon Gambetta (1838 – 1882)
The statue of in the centre of the square is of a Cahors-born lawyer and republican politician.

A fallen maple leaf on wet pavers, Place François Mitterrand, Cahors, France

Autumn Leaves

Statue of Jean-Baptiste Bessières Duc d

Jean-Baptiste Bessières, Duc d’Istrie (1768 – 1813)
In the park west of the square, I find another statue: this one honouring a French military leader during the French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars.

Seed pod of a southern magnolia tree, Cahors France

Southern Magnolia – Magnolia Grandiflora

Fallen maple leaves in a pond, Cahors, France

Fallen Leaves

Colourful street art on a city wall, Cahors France

Street Art
Keeping a medieval city vibrant and relevant is a balancing act!

Medieval Street, Cahors France

Medieval Street
The original building fronts hide modern interiors. (iPhone15Pro)

Saint-Etienne Cathedral bell tower from outside, Cahors, France

Rooftops
The Roman Catholic Saint-Etienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors) is the centrepiece of the old town, and visible from all around.

Saint-Etienne Cathedral from a narrow street outside, Cahors, France

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
It dominates the narrow streets …

Inside the cloisters, Saint-Etienne Cathedral, Cahors, France

Inside Saint Stephen’s Cloisters
… and is well worth exploring.

Medieval Street, Cahors France

Another Medieval Street (iPhone15Pro)

Closeup: a stone dog face spouting water, Cahors France

The Dog Fountain
You never know what you will find! In the centre of Place Alain-de-Solminihac is a fountain made in 1992 by Jean-Luc Bertrand, a stonemason in Cahors.

Half-timber house on the corner of Rue Daurade, Cahors France.

Square Olivier de Magny (1529 – 1561)
The town is known for its heritage half-timber houses; several face the square named for a French poet born in Cahors.

Wooden struts: Half-timber house, Rue Daurade, Cahors France.

12 Rue Daurade
Possibly the most noteworthy is this one from the late 13th century.

Head of the L’Ange du Lazaretin, Sculpture, Cahors France.

L’Ange du Lazaretin – the Angel of the Lazaret
In nearby Place Clément-Marot, almost on the doorstep of the north portal of the cathedral, this mournful bronze sculpture by Marc Petit (1961 – ) seems to be crying in the rain for those souls sequestered in quarantine hospitals for people with infectious diseases.

L’Ange du Lazaretin, bronze sculpture, Cahors France.

Place Clément-Marot
Meanwhile, life in the rain goes on.

Brick arch over a wooden doorway, Cahors France

Arched Doorway (iPhone15Pro)

The Little Train of Cahors, France

The Little Train of Cahors
A tourist train makes regular circuits with live commentary around town. Building and renovation work – under strictly monitored guidelines – goes on all around in the Rue du Château du Roi.

Windows with worn shutters and peeling paint, Cahors France.

Worn Windows
Renovations are costly – and not every façade is like new.

Scooter in a narrow lane, Cahors France

Scooter in a Laneway

Renaissance windows, Rue du Château du Roi, Cahors France

Renaissance Windows

Postman and his yellow bicycle, Cahors France

Mail Delivery

The town truly was a delight, and I hope to be able to get back there one day!

Until then,

Bon Voyage!

Pictures: 25-28September2024