Building Details Ornately carved wood and overhanging balconies: the architecture in the historic and UNESCO-listed city of Meknes in Northern Morocco is a blend of Islamic and European styles from the 17th century and older.
Colour and pattern is everywhere!
Tiled walls and fountains are around each corner and intricate wood, brass, and plaster work decorate every building in old Meknes.
Founded in the 11th century under the Almoravid Berber dynasty, Meknes is one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities: that is, it was once the capital of the country, and continues to house a royal palace. UNESCO-listed for its historic architectural interest and its approach to urban design and town planning, the narrow, winding streets of the medina (the old city) contrast with the massive ramparts and huge monumental gates that are the mark of its historic defensive origins.
I was travelling with a small group. We had driven to Meknes the day before from Casablanca, with a stop at Rabat, the current capital and one of the other Imperial Cities (see: Imperial City and Capital of Morocco). Our overnight accommodation was in a old charming riad – a traditional multi-storied house built around an inner courtyard with a fountain below and a colourful skylight above.
After a very early breakfast, we were out the door with our walking shoes on and our bags packed and ready for the bus. We met with a local guide who took us through some of the main attractions in the old city. I was very grateful to her: without a guide, I might have never made it back out of the medina!
I’ve forgotten most of the dates and details: so enjoy the visuals as you join me for a morning walk through old Meknes.
Ornamental Facade Overhead As soon as we enter the medina, we are surrounded by intricate architectural details, like this carved and painted wood and plaster.
Ornate Tiled Fountain Sultan Moulay Ismaïl (reigned 1672–1727) oversaw the construction of grand palaces, public buildings, and sophisticated water systems. Some of the existing fountains date back that far, although most are from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Under-Cover Corridor Walkways wind in every direction. The UNESCO documents note the need for restoration or conservation measures in many areas.
In the Medieval Streets Unlike the medinas of some of Morocco’s bigger cities, old Meknes is not aimed at tourists: it is very much a site where daily life goes on.
A Local Guide and a Local Shop At a clothing store, our guide explains the difference between the every-day djellabas and special-occasion caftans that women wear.
Another Door and Another Fountain
Our Guide
Another Beautiful Public Fountain The repeated tiled patterns are quite beautiful – but they send my head spinning!
Ornate Ceiling Detail Even the roof overhanging the fountain is decorated in intricate geometric patterns and flowing arabesques typical of Islamic art.
Blue Mosaic Wall Art at the Dar Jamai Palace Our walk brings us to a large open square, Place el-Hedim, where we stop to admire the beautifully tiled fountain on the outside wall of the Dar Jamai Museum. The palace that now houses the museum was built in 1882.
Bab el-Mansour or Bab Mansur At the opposite end of Place el-Hedim – which was built between 1672-1674 after Sultan Moulay Ismail demolished half of the city of Meknes for his palace – we come to a historic monumental gate. The Mansour Gate was built in 1732 by Mulay Abdullah, the son of Sultan Moulay Ismail. It is currently undergoing renovation and what we are looking at is a giant photograph!
Pillar and Repairs Behind the giant photo, I get a glimpse of the scaffolding, and one of the elegant pillars it encircles.
Old Alleyways We enter the walled area through more modest gates and winding tunnels.
Pigeons in the Wall Pigeons roost the depressions in the giant walls which once held scaffolding.
Arched Gateway The interior of the ancient imperial city comprises vast open spaces.
Pony Cart Small pony carts wait to transport passengers.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail A short walk from the gate, we come to the funerary complex of the sultan who first made Meknes his capital.
Brass Door Knockers The huge carved wooden doors to mausoleum are decorated with traditional Moroccan door knockers.
Inside the Mausoleum The mausoleum complex winds off into various courtyards and chambers; the patterned tiles everywhere played havoc with my astigmatism.
A Prayer
Brass Chandelier Richly decorated indoor patios flank the tomb chamber at the centre of the mausoleum.
Another Brass Chandelier
The Tomb Chamber This square central chamber holds the mqabriyas – tombstones – of Sultan Moulay Ismail (c. 1645–1727), his son and successor Ahmad ad-Dhahabi (1677 – 1729), and the later sultan Moulay Abd ar-Rahman ibn Hisham (1778 –1859).
The historical fiction I’ve read (see: The Sultan’s Wife) andWikipedia agree that Moulay Ismail left behind a mixed legacy. He was known for his military successes and his ruthless – often cruel – governance. Although he is credited with unifying Morocco, his death was followed by civil wars and instability.
But, the architectural grandeur he left behind is indeed a testament to Meknes’ start as a magnificent imperial capital.
A Bench on the Bend The Merimbula Boardwalk allows a beautiful – and accessible – out-and-back walk along Merimbula Lake and Boggy Creek in the far southeast of New South Wales (NSW) Australia.
You can’t beat the Sapphire Coast of NSW, Australia on a sunny day!
As regular visitors to these pages know, I live in a beautiful corner of the world – but, I tend to get lazy when I’m at home and not venture any further than my own boardwalk along Curalo Lake in Eden, (eg: Winter Colours in my Neighbourhood).
I usually do get to neighbouring coastal town Merimbula – a mere twenty minute drive away – weekly, but I generally don’t get beyond the shops and cafés. It had been months since I walked along the boardwalk there.
Last week, I decided to rectify that, and made a point of setting enough time for a stroll.
Although the waters here are called Merimbula Lake, and fed by Boggy Creek, this is technically an ICOLL – an intermittently closing and opening lake or lagoon – and is tidal. Unlike my ICOLL, Curalo Lake in Eden, which is only opened artificially during potential flooding events, Merimbula Lake is generally kept open because of the importance of its large scale oyster industry.
On a photographic note: I often don’t pull out the cameras at home – especially as the lenses on phones have improved. These are all iPhone (iPhone15Pro) shots – and taken in jpeg (HEIC) rather than RAW format. Although this rather limits my editing options, on a sunny day it’s less of an issue.
Join me for a lovely walk:
Clear Water and Colourful Rocks Many of the rocks in this neighbourhood are rich in iron oxide, giving them a deep red colour that stands out against the pristine waters and eroding sandstone.
Almost Abstract : Seaweed Underwater Because the boardwalk is over the water in many places, you get a bird’s-eye view of the shallow lake/estuary. The patterns of Nature’s artworks transfix me, and a mix of seaweed and wild mussels under the sunny ripples catches my eye.
Sign Board The boardwalk was originally built in 1997. It is well sign-posted and well maintained – although its increasing popularity has led to plans to upgrade the infrastructure.
A Curve in the Boardwalk Tea trees (melaleuca) cling to the steep shoreline. I love the contrast of the red rock with the green algae.
Mangrove on a Bend Living in Thailand, I developed a real appreciation for mangrove habitats. There are at least five mangrove species in NSW; I think the ones here are the common grey mangrove (Avicennia marina).
Mangrove Trunk and Roots Mangroves are well adapted to these intertidal areas. One obvious feature of the grey mangrove (Avicennia marina) is its spiky vertical roots which can be seen at low tide protruding from the mud or sand. These act like snorkels, drawing air into the root system and allowing the plant to survive in soils that are not well aerated.
Location, Location!
Grasses and Mangroves Growing in a tidal area, the plants here need to be adapted to changes in water levels and salinity.
Lines and Curves To the right of the boardwalk here, samphire – a salt-rich succulent plant also known as sea asparagus, glasswort, or pickleweed – grows in the intermittently-wet and brackish ground.
A Tinny on the Mudflat
Nature’s Artworks : Ripples and Waves Watching the water over the sands is mesmerising.
Oyster Farms Many of the estuaries along the Far South Coast of NSW are home to oyster leases, producing high-quality Sydney rock oysters (Saccostrea glomerata) and other varieties for local consumption and export.
Grasses
Fruit of the Grey Mangrove (Avicennia Marina)
Neptune’s Necklace (Hormosira Banksii) Nature’s patterns are everywhere I look.
Dragon Boat Practice Practice I reached the carpark at the end/mid-point of my walk just as the women’s dragon boat team were approaching the landing.
Back into the Mangroves Sunny’s Kiosk & Boat Hire at the end of the walk, wasn’t open – so, I headed straight back into the trees.
Reflected Trunks
Lilies and Ferns There are short sections of earthen path that allow you to get off the boardwalk and into the eucalyptus and melaleuca forest.
Winding Boardwalk
Nature’s Sculpture : Standing Wood Even dead, the trees are beautiful.
Nature’s Artworks : New Growth in the Ripples
Weathered Wood on the Sand
Oyster Farms Oyster farmers will tell you that oysters are the canaries of the waterways: because they are filter-feeders, they are sensitive indicators of water quality. The waters here are carefully monitored to ensure good harvests.
Through the Mangroves and Melaleuca
Walkers on the Boardwalk This is a very popular walk – but all dogs are on-leash and no bicycles are allowed, so the popularity didn’t impact my enjoyment.
Sparkle and Shine
Lone Fisherman Parts of the community of Merimbula come back into view as I get close to where my car is parked.
Having missed out on a mid-walk coffee, I took myself back to town for a lunch on the harbour.
Blue Domes and Whitewashed Walls Santorini is – as they say – everything a Greek island should be. And Oía, that charming village sitting on the northwestern edge of a stunningly beautiful caldera, is the absolute cream.
I had to keep pinching myself!
Santorini lives up to its hype. This southernmost island in the Greek Cyclades is probably the country’s most-visited island. Rightly known for its extraordinary natural beauty, it is a popular travel destination for people the world over.
It was certainly on my bucket list!
Of course, the downside of the island’s popularity is that is also expensive and crowded. I read one blogger who complained about the price of his coffee – even while extolling the view that comes for free! During the peak season – July and August – the island is packed with tourists. Cruise ships offload thousands of day-trippers to add to the throngs.
I was travelling in late-September, during the more-reasonable and less-crowded shoulder season – and Covid19 lockdowns had not long since ended. Even so, there were queues of tourists and Instagrammers waiting for their turns at the most iconic viewpoints.
But, I was finally there! The weather was glorious, the food and wine were sublime, and the views were everything you could hope for.
We had arrived on Santorini from Naxos the day before, and spent the afternoon exploring the capital town of Fira where we were staying (see: Iconic Blue and White). On this particular morning, I – and one other person in the small group I was travelling with – had got up very early to walk from our hotel in Firostefani, north along the edge of the ruined caldera that formed the island, to the picturesque town of Oia (see: A Santorini Sunrise).
When we arrived there, we were free to explore Oia itself before checking out some of the wineries Santorini is also famous for.
Coming into Oia As we come to the tail end of our walk from Fira – some 10+ km (6.2 mi) away – the whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches on the outskirts of Oia come into view.
Church of Agios Georgios This large, creamy yellow Orthodox church with its contrasting blue domes stands out from all the other white churches in Oia.
Oia Those iconic whitewashed buildings and blue Orthodox church domes are everywhere you look. The other Santorini islands that are the remains of that spectacular caldera wrap themselves around us on the horizon.
The Virgin Mary of the Akathist Hymn Church Every Greek church seems to have several names! This one is also known as the Church of Panagia Akathistos Hymn. With its six-piece bell tower, it is a commanding example of Santorini’s typical architecture. Located in the main square, it is the most famous church in Oia.
Photo Shoot Our guide leads us to “THE spot” – but, plenty of people are there already with their selfie sticks, or with actual photographers in tow!
A Classic View This is the Greek Orthodox dome that makes it into so many postcards. Far below, life goes on on the flooded caldera that is now a protected harbour. (iPhone12Pro)
Pumice Cliffs Buildings cling to the rough cliffs that rise up steeply from the water.
Souvenir Stand Watercolours and postcards are popular souvenirs. (iPhone12Pro)
Looking Down to Ammoudi Bay The inter-island ferries land in Órmos, further south on the island – but there are plenty of tourist boats in the fishing port of Ammoudi Bay.
The Bells of Oia Another classic postcard view – with just enough breeze to lift the flag! (iPhone12Pro)
Bells over the Caldera That view! Who can get enough?
The Castle of Oia on the Clifftop The ruins of the 15th-century Venetian fortress are a popular sunset spot. We won’t be in town that long.
Through the Gate
Windmill Windmills like this one dot the islands. In the old days, these windmills were used to grind grain. This famous windmill in Oia is a signature Santorini landmark. Although the windmills are no longer functional, many – like this one – have been preserved as a reminder of the island’s past. Some have been retrofitted as tavernas or tourist accommodation.
It isn’t ALL Whitewash! Rendered stone was a common building material. In a region prone to earthquakes, plenty of buildings like this mini market are in need of repair. (iPhone12Pro)
Oia on the Edge Who can resist one last look before we head back to our hotel in Fira?
The Venetsanos Winery In the afternoon, we head back out to learn about the unique (and expensive!) Santorini wines.
The History of Santorini Wine Santorini’s Mediterranean climate, unique terroir, and ancient vines all contribute to the exceptional quality of the local wines.
Boats on the Caldera Venetsanos Winery is located overlooking the magnificent caldera, right above the port of Athinios, so we have magnificent views for our tasting.
Young Server at the Venetsanos Winery Fortunately, we have some snacks to compliment our wine.
Modern Sculpture and Old Equipment Our second wine tasting was at the Estate Argyros.
Over the Vineyards to Anafi Estate Argyros is in Episkopi Gonia, a village on the other side of Santorini, so we have views over the Aegean Sea.
Our Sommelier Our hostess explains the wines as we taste them.
Last Light over Anafi Meanwhile, the sun sets on our last evening on Santorini.
I returned to my room a little tipsy and a whole lot sad knowing that this was my last day on this spectacularly beautiful island.
Bald Eagles on the Rocks The eagles that congregate around the waters of Haida Gwaii, off the northwestern coast of Canada’sBritish Columbia, are so numerous that they almost seem commonplace. Photo: 14June2022
You are never far from water on Haida Gwaii.
This collection of around 150 islands in northwestern British Columbia (BC), Canada is home to the people of the Haida Nation – and has been for at least 13,000 years.
The archipelago sits between 55 and 125 km (34 and 78 mi) from the BC mainland to the east. For animals and people alike, the only way to access the islands is by water or air. Most people arrive – as I did – via a weather-dependent 7 or 8 hour ferry trip across the shallow Hecate Strait from the northern BC city of Prince Rupert (see: Local History in Wood and Water). The relative isolation from the mainland has resulted in a unique bioculture that is home to many endemic plants and animals.
People’s lives here are integrated with the surrounding waters, with boats and seaplanes being the only means of accessing many locations. I spent a full on one boat, visiting abandoned ancient Haida villages that cannot be reached any other way (see: Gwaii Haanas National Park and Haida Heritage Site).
Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) live here, watching over the waters in search of prey. The only eagles unique to North America, they are fast and powerful hunters with extraordinary eyesight. Perhaps less elegantly, they are alopportunistic – and can be seen eating carrion on roadways or scavenging near boat launches and rubbish tips. It is such a contrast to the days of my youth, when they were on the brink of extinction, and we dewy-eyed idealists backed the ban on DDT and helped collect it for managed disposal.
The birds have bounced back since then, and are present in countless numbers in these northern woods and waters. I never tire of watching them.
A Modest Breakfast After a start like this, you’d better get out and expend some energy! (iPhone12Pro) Photo: 13June2022
Canoes on the Foreshore Boats are the lifeblood here. Modern fiberglass canoes and aluminium outboards have mostly replaced the beautifully carved and painted red-cedar log canoes that the Haida are known for. (iPhone12Pro) Photo: 10June2022
Overlooking the Islands of Skidegate Inlet You are never far from water in Haida Gwaii. My first modest room in Daajing Giids – formerly known as Queen Charlotte – gave me views over Skidegate Channel. (iPhone12Pro) Photo: 10June2022
Waiting for the Next Floatplane Skidegate Inlet is home to a number of commercial and private floatplane services. These small propellor planes are the primary means of reaching many difficult-to-access spots around the islands. Between flights, the pier is quiet. (iPhone12Pro) Photo: 13June2022
Evening on the Charlotte Wharf The boat harbour, by contrast, is a noisy jumble of vessels. It is nine o’clock at night, but at 53° north, and just over a week before summer solstice, the days are long. (iPhone12Pro) Photo: 13June2022
Scavengers on the Waterfront Bald eagles will happily scavenge for their food. Someone has left offal on the Skidegate boat ramp. Photo: 14June2022
Keeping Watch I’m parked in the queue for the BC Ferries vessel which will transport me and my rental car to the next island. This gives me time to watch the birds – who are not very bothered by my presence. Photo: 14June2022
Juvenile and Adult Bald eagles are relatively slow-growers, with juveniles typically retaining their dark brown feathers, overlaid with messy white streaking, until their fifth year. Look at the powerful curve of those beaks! Photo: 14June2022
Those Eyes! It is not for nothing that we refer to “eagle-eyed”. Bald eagles have 20/5 vision: they see at 20 feet what we can see at 5 feet. They also have UV light perception and a 340-degree field of view. Photo: 14June2022
On the Rocks Bald eagles truly are magnificent creatures, growing to between 4.5 to 6.8 kg (10 to 15 pounds), with wingspans of up to 2.4 meters (8 feet). The large crows in the scene give you an idea of their size. Photo: 14June2022
On the Alliford Bay Ferry BC Ferries are an extension – albeit, a user-pays extension – of the local highway network. I was on my way from Graham Island (Kiis Gwaay) in the north, across the Skidegate Channel to Moresby Island (T’aawxii X̱aaydag̱a Gwaay.yaay linag̱waay or Gwaay Haanas) in the south.
Channel Marker on Skidegate Channel It is a 20 minute crossing, with plenty of scenery along the way.
Grasses on Moresby Island Off the ferry, I take the time to regroup, check maps, and appreciate my surrounds.
Thimbleberry – Rubus Parviflorus It has been a cold spring: the local berries are flowering, but not yet showing any fruit.
A Curve of Beach
Black Guillemot or Tystie – Cepphus Grylle Neither my lenses nor my temperament lend themselves to birdwatching, …
Semipalmated Plover – Charadrius Semipalmatus … but when birds present themselves, I do my best! These guys were tiny: sparrow-sized.
House Near Sandspit Only 325 people (2021) live on Moresby Island, so there is plenty of space! I’m guessing these people work at the little airport in the background.
Salmon Burger and Caesar Salad There aren’t a lot of services on Moresby Island, so locating the pop-up food-van was essential – and rewardingly tasty. (iPhone12Pro)
Sandspit Harbour Back on the waterfront …
Juvenile … I get the opportunity to watch more eagles go about their day.
Eagle in Flight (iPhone12Pro)
Ferry on the Sound The ferries continue their passages – silent except for the occasional sounding of their whistles. Photo: 14June2022
The waters around Haida Gwaii are magical, surrounded by magnificent mountains and teeming with life.
I enjoyed every minute I spent in this beautiful archipelago.
Vegetable Sales I love the freshness that you can almost taste in the vibrant colours of the vegetables on offer in the street markets in Nowhatta, Srinagar, in India’s Kashmir. I especially love the friendly faces of the vendors who know perfectly well that I am unlikely to buy anything.
Any visitor to these pages knows I love markets.
So, on my first day in Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of the union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, India, I was in my element. The itinerary had us walking through various old streets and markets.
I was travelling with a small group of photography enthusiasts. We spent part of our first morning in the old streets around Srinagar’s oldest mosque (see: Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Srinagar Street Scenes).
From there, our walking trip took us through the narrow bustling streets in the old city of Srinagar, where I had plenty of time to interact with the locals and make naturalistic environmental portraits of people as they went about their daily lives.
We slowly made our way towards one of the largest mosques in Kashmir: the Jamia Masjid in Srinagar Nowhatta. The extensive Jamia Market complex which neighbours the mosque houses traditional arts, handicrafts, jewelry, spices, and fabrics – and attracts tourists and locals alike.
Later in the day, we visited a small, crowded workshop to learn about the process of making Kashmir’s famous papier-mâché (paper mache) products.
Of course, all the handicrafts and other items for sale were quite beautiful – but I was more interested in the people themselves.
On a photographic note: I was dealing with new cameras that are of a different make to my old ones. I couldn’t work out many of the settings and couldn’t get the focal points where I wanted them. As a consequence, some of the pictures I took had very ‘soft’ focus, or focus in the wrong spot. Hopefully, none of those will slip through here – but, as my eyes are also a bit ‘soft’, anything is possible!
Brush Salesman The narrow streets on the short walk between the Shah-e-Hamdan Mosque and the Jamia Masjid are lined with shops packed with products. Even so, some vendors manage without a shop-front, like this young man with his bicycle laden with brooms.
Warm Smiles I can’t help but admire the relaxed and friendly demeanor of the local shopkeepers.
In the Spices Many of the shop spaces are packed full – with hardly any room left for their minders
In the Grains Many of us who have spent our lives in chairs have no hope of being able to sit and kneel the way that even older people can in Asia!
In the Copper Every little shopfront has its own specialty.
Metal Worker Sparks fly in a dark corner where a man hammers out a tin cup.
Surrounded by Copper Everyone has a phone – and can keep themselves occupied between customers.
Fresh Vegetables I can hear the crunch! (iPhone12Pro)
Tallying the Purchases I love watching the interactions in markets – there is always so much going on.
Old Man There are some real characters in the streets.
Lotus Roots
Making and Selling Samosas Freshly cooked food is never far away. (iPhone12Pro)
Samosa Cook in a Topi
Woman in the Apples Most of the vendors here are men; this was the only woman I saw.
A Kashmiri Kitchen We made a short stop in a traditional Kashmiri family home – a narrow, multi-story building that houses an extended family. I love the shiny utensils hanging in their niche.
Speakers on the Rooftop The design of the Jamia Masjid is influenced by Persian architecture, with pagoda-like pyramidal roofs at each of its four corners. The mosque was originally built between 1394 and 1402, and has long been the centre of religious and political life in Srinagar.
Selling Islamic Decor Jamia Market is next door to the Jamia Masjid. Unsurprisingly, an Islamic wall-art store with Arabic calligraphy and motifs is the first shop that catches my eye.
Dyeing Fabrics In another corner of the market, men are hand-dyeing fabrics.
Portrait of a Young Man
Shiny Pots Later in the afternoon, we stop in at Kawoosa Arts and Crafts to learn how papier-mâché is made.
Hanging Decorations The workshop exports goods all around the world. Piles of products fill every corner as shipments are readied; small cones hang from the wooden slats in the ceiling while the requisite number is made for an order.
Moulding the Paper Layers
Applying Paint and Shellac
Delicate Paintwork An artisan finds a patch of window light to illuminate the platter he is working on. It is time-consuming and delicate work.
Outside the Window
Lacquered Paper Mache Inexpensive – but beautifully made – trinkets like these can be found all over India, but there is something special about finding them at their source. (iPhone12Pro)
I love shopping with the camera! It was a great introduction to this colourful and unique region, and I was very much looking forward to experiencing more.
I was quite pleased with myself: I managed to not buy anything.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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But, the architectural grandeur he left behind is indeed a testament to Meknes’ start as a magnificent imperial capital.
I returned to my room a little tipsy and a whole lot sad knowing that this was my last day on this spectacularly beautiful island.
After all, it was only our first full day!
