Bricks and Stones Thirteen months after the devastating earthquake on September 8, 2023, the mud-brick houses of Aït Aïssa in the Azzaden Valley, Morocco, still show the scars.
Back in September of 2023, Morocco was rocked by an earthquake – with devastating consequences.
More than 2,900 people were killed and a further 5,500 injured (see: The Centre for Disaster Recovery). Over two million dwellings were damaged – displacing at least 500,000 people.
Although the effects of the 6.8-magnitude quake were felt in the popular tourist destination of Marrakesh, it was nearer the epicentre – 71km (44 miles) to the southwest in Al Haouz Province – where the majority of deaths and injuries occurred. This is a predominantly rural and mountainous area, with tiny villages of mud-brick houses – many of them only accessible by donkey or motor bike.
What shocks me most is how little news of this disastrous event crossed my feeds and into my awareness – even though I had plans to travel to that very region.
Just over a year later, I was staying in the Azzaden Valley, less 50 km (30 mi) from the epicentre of the quake. I had undertaken the rugged 12 kilometer- (7 mile-) trek into the tiny village of Aït Aïssa from Imlil the day before (see: Over the Tedli Saddle), and could fully appreciate how difficult rescue and restoration efforts must have been. (Later in my travels, I was in nearby Ouirgane, where a whole community was still living in tents.)
The Azzaden Trekking Lodge in Aït Aïssa where I was staying calls itself luxury accommodation; it is not as luxurious as the Kasbah Tamadot, the boutique 4.5-star hotel built by Richard Branson in nearby Asni, mind you, but it had everything I needed – including a spa bath in my ensuite! – and certainly was much more comfortable than the damaged houses all around.
After the bone-jarring, muscle-testing hike the day before, I was looking forward to a relatively easy day walking around the Azzaden Valley. Of course, nothing in the High Atlas is easy! The six-and-a-bit kilometre (3.8 mi) circuit was up and down and over and up again – following rough water channels, narrow laneways between broken buildings, and donkey paths into the unknown.
Join me for a walk:
Setting Out My local trekking guide heads off through Aït Aïssa, past a newly rebuilt building of stone and brick – hopefully reinforced this time!
Morning in the Ruins The morning sun catches the edges of earthquake-damaged buildings.
Metal Door The sun can’t reach all the way into the narrow lanes between the multi-story buildings.
Herding his Sheep Like the many other tiny villages around the Azzaden Valley, Aït Aïssa clings to the side of the mountain.
The Azzaden Valley The valley is green and fertile in the lower reaches, terraced with orchards and market gardens.
Apple Crates This part of the valley is home to apple orchards, …
Apples … and autumn is harvest season.
Guide on the “Path” Some of the “walking paths” follow rough watercourses; without my guide, I’d never have found the way!
Into the Sunshine The water travels downhill; our path flanks the mountainside. I’m still tired from the day before, and my guide has to stop and wait for me at regular intervals.
Common Leadwort – Plumbago Europaea
Village on the Other Side Small villages are dotted all around the valley.
Apples in the Atlas Apples are everywhere! My guide got me one from a tree: it was sweet, crisp, and delicious.
Red and Green The steep mountain trail continues winding and dropping, and we end up overlooking an apple sorting and packing operation.
Apple Packhouse The yard is busy with activity, …
Worker at the Packhouse … but the local Berber men working there are happy to stop and have their pictures made.
Berber Man at the Packhouse
Mosque in the Middle Every small village is centred around its mosque, with its distinctive square minaret tower.
Metal Door and Rubble Spots of colour contrast with the piles of rubble waiting to be rebuilt.
Woman on the Stairs People in these mountains get their stair-stepping in just going about their daily lives.
Woman at Home Where sections of the buildings have fallen away, you can see how the old adobe structures were reinforced only with straw.
Half-Housing The rebuilding process is slow – but at least it includes steel reinforcement.
Girls Snacking Local girls share a giggle and a snack – possibly walnuts, which also grow in the valley.
Girls on their Phone Some things are the same all over the world. Back in my lodge, two young girls attached to the household were watching videos on their phone …
View from the Azzaden Trekking Lodge … while outside, the afternoon sun shines over the valley.
Roads are being build, and houses are being repaired, but it’s a slow recovery in this remote valley of relatively low economic wealth.
I couldn’t help but feel extremely fortunate as I luxuriated in my spa-bath, soaking away some of the aches and pains in preparation for the next day’s early start: around the other side of the mountain and back to Imlil in the neighbouring Ait Mizane Valley.
Inside the Cloisters Started in the 11th century, the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors was recognised as a French National Monument in 1862. In 1998, it was heritage-listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
The charming medieval town of Cahors in the Occitan Region of Southern France was full of delightful surprises.
The centrepiece of the town is the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral, a refuge on the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage, and – along with the Valentré Bridge (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) – a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Catholicism is the predominant religion in France, with between 47% and 88% of the population estimated to be Catholic – practicing or lapsed. The French Catholic Church was established in the 2nd century, and because of its continuous communion with the bishop of Rome, it was sometimes called the fille aînée de l’Église – the eldest daughter of the church. Clovis I was the first Frankish king to be baptized a Christian in 496 (or 508 – depending on who you read!) and the kings after him were all called the “eldest sons of the Church”.
While the broader relationship between church and state has often been less than smooth, for many centuries the parish church has been the center of village life in France. The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors truly was central to Cahors; it is now in the middle of the medieval quarter, and I passed it repeatedly on my various walks.
Architecturally, Cahors Cathedral is considered a fine example of the transition between the late Romanesque and Gothic traditions. It was consecrated in 1135, having been built on the site of an earlier 7th century church. I’ve forgotten much of what I learned about religious architecture back in my art-history classes at school, and was just happy to wander around, escaping the autumn rain and admiring the graceful lines. On my second visit, I was lucky enough to be treated to an organ recital!
Come for a visit:
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors The cathedral is a commanding presence in the narrow streets of the old historic quarter.
Madonna The statuary decorating the building is quite beautiful.
The Apse of Cahors Cathedral from the Outside
In the Cloisters The cloister was rebuilt towards the end of the 15th century, reflecting the ornate Gothic style of the day.
Looking Out The symmetrical garden in cloistre gives a feeling of calm.
Rain in the Cloisters The light was completely different the next day when I returned to escape the rain.
Bell Tower Rising The cathedral has a sturdy, fortified appearance. When it was build, the local bishops were also feudal lords, and probably sought some measure of protection.
Rain Falling
A Dome and the Tower The two Byzantine-style blue-slate covered domes in the cathedral are 32 meters (105 feet) high. From the medieval period, only those of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople stand taller. (iPhone15Pro)
Reflections in the Coloured Windows
Organ The Cahors organ was built between 1712-1714 and rebuilt in 1863. From inside the nave, the sound was glorious!
Traditional Stained Glass The classic stained glass windows are quite stunning: this one shows Saint Lawrence, Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Génulphus.
Modern Stained Glass : The Parables of St Mark’s Gospel Contemporary windows were commissioned by the city, and installed in 2013 by artist Gérard Collin-Thiébaut and the master glazier Pierre-Alain Parot. Each window is composed from layers of pictures: old and newer ones, symbolising how art and faith are passed down and reinterpreted through the generations. The central panel here depicts the parable of the sower and the calming of the tempest.
Madonna and Child In the Chapel of the Virgin, a colourful statue stands over the tomb of Alain de Solminihac, Bishop of Cahors from 1636 until his death in 1659.
L’Ange du Lazaret in the Rain Back outside in the rain, a more modern monumental bronze sculpture – the Angel of Lazaret by Marc Petit – is a sorrowful guardian of those people with infectious diseases who are sequestered away from the mainstream.
Cathedral Wall Textures The porch of the north door of the cathedral is decorated with stone motifs.
Flowers in the Stone
Night Lights After dark, the cathedral is lit up …
Light Show … with a repeated sequence of colourful lights.
Just another delightful surprise!
I couldn’t wait to explore more of this lovely town.
Afternoon Light on the Waters Being in a wooden shikara boat on Dal Lake – in the North Indian territory of Jammu and Kashmir – is like being transported into a Monet painting.
It was like a dream – indeed, a dream come true!
Kashmir had been on my ‘list’ since long before my first-ever trip to India, but opportunities had never quite lined up for me.
The beauty of the landscape is legendary. The land itself – the valley running between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal Range – has long been disputed in a history too protracted and complicated to go into here. Today, portions of the overall region are administered by China, India, and Pakistan, with tensions and actual boundary disputes ongoing.
As recently as the end of October 2019, the whole Indian-controlled portion of the Kashmir Valley was locked down by the Indian government. Movement of people within the territory was limited, and Internet and phone services were blocked.
Although the Indian Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir(J&K) is quite safe for tourists today, Amnesty International still holds concerns for local citizens. I never once felt worried for myself or my belongings. I did, however, meet a number of locals who most emphatically expressed their personal concerns about laws which had recently been enacted by the central government in Delhi.
After a week in Rishikesh on my own (see: Colourful Gods and Endless Mountains), I met up with a small group of photography enthusiasts in Delhi for two weeks of travel through Kashmir and Ladakh. Our first week was to be based from a houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar, the summer capital of J&K.
To say I was excited would be an understatement! Join me for my first taste of the waters of “Srinagar’s Jewel.”
IndiGo Flight Attendant It’s about an hour and a half flight from Delhi to Srinagar.
The Himalaya from the Aisle Seat The Indian couple seated beside me kindly let me take pictures over their shoulders.
Shikara Boats on Dal Lake After about an hour in the bus from the airport, we are met by a colourful scene: countless decorated boats crowd the piers on the ghats along the lake.
“Happy Love Nest Deluxe” These distinctive wooden boats are a cultural symbol of Kashmir. Today, they sport colourful advertising and unique names, and are mostly are used to ferry tourists.
Boatman on Dal Lake Many boatmen today, like this one, wear shalwar kameez (a long shirt over gathered trousers) rather than the more traditional Kashmiripheran (a loose, long gown).
Shikara Boat Shikara are made from rot-resistant Himalayan cedar. Although they are shaped the same, with their colourful paint and patterned curtains, every boat looks different.
Daily Life on the Lake The waters of the lake are rich in nutrients, and floating gardens of vegetables and water plants are an important part of the local economy.
My Floating Palace Hotel Room This is my home for the week: complete with an ensuite, wifi, and more room than I could possibly need. Then there was the food: the meals we were served were wonderful!
Our Front Garden : Lilies, Lotus, and Reeds After our sumptuous lunch, I was finally able to unpack the cameras and explore. Of course, being on the water, I couldn’t go far! The boat my room was in was linked to two others by a gangplank; beyond that, you need a boat.
In a Shikara Boats have been ordered for us and we set off along the beautiful, meandering waterways.
Little Egret – Egretta Garzetta Although there are motor boats on the lake, most of the shikara are paddled, …
Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii … making our afternoon trip soporific, and leaving the wildlife undisturbed.
Lotus in Bloom
“Karma” All around us, in the still heat of the afternoon, shikaras glide past – almost noiselessly – …
Common Moorhen – Gallinula Chloropus … and waterbirds scrabble around in the reeds and leaf-litter for food.
Houseboats and Transport Boats Houseboats are clumped into neighbourhoods – the shikara operators who provide taxi services must understand the system!
View through our Shikara
Hookah Break On the wooden gangways that join buildings, everyday life goes on. A young man with his shisha gives me a cheeky smile …
Doing the Daily Shopping … and a family loads their shopping into a low rowboat.
Waterways The waterways seem to go on forever – all in dappled afternoon light.
Our Boatman Our boatman takes a short break from paddling to smile for my camera.
Another Local Store Men pause on the piers, to fish or just to rest …
Men in a Rowboat … while others continue on their water-born journeys.
Young Man on the Shore
Woman on the Pier I loved people-watching from our shikara …
Light on the Waters … but it was that light – and the watery colours – that made me feel like I’d wandered into an Impressionist painting …
Fishing from the Walkway … or got lost in a dream.
The waterways seem to go forever.
I had no sense of space or distance and time lost all meaning.
But, clearly our boatmen knew when and where we were: in actuality, we had an appointment to visit a wood workshop – more about that later!
Ferns on the Forest Floor With the tops of the cedar, spruce, and hemlock trees high overhead, and their branches filtering the the light that reaches the ground, it is moist and dark on the floor of this magnificent temperate rainforest. The walk around Spirit Lake, near Skidegate in Haida Gwaii, Canada, is a magical introduction to this very special archipelago off the northern Pacific Coast of British Columbia.
There is something very special about Haida Gwaii.
It might be the fresh air and abundance of old-growth and second-growth forests; it might be knowing that the Indigenous people here have spiritual and family connections to the land going back more than 13,000 years; it might be the breathtaking natural beauty.
Whatever it is, these beguiling islands in the Pacific, off the northern coast of British Columbia (BC), Canada, feel magical and timeless.
I had been waiting a long time to visit: getting to Haida Gwaii is not particularly easy or cheap.
There are flights – but then you probably need to rent a car: getting around the islands without a vehicle is pretty difficult.
Most people arrive – as I did – by ferry from the northern BC city of Prince Rupert (see: Local History in Wood and Water). That is nominally an approximately 7 or 8 hour crossing. However, the wide but shallow waters of Hecate Strait can make for a rough passage and the crossing is weather-dependent. The day I was scheduled to travel, the ferry departure was delayed by 12 hours because of high winds. I arrived into Skidegate on Graham Island, the northern of Haida Gwaii’s two principle islands, well after midnight.
When I was growing up, these were known as the Queen Charlotte Islands: this was the name given to them by Captain George Dixon from the United Kingdom in 1787. At the time of Dixon’s maritime explorations, about 30,000 Haida people lived in villages across the islands, which they called Xaadala Gwayee, or “islands at the boundary of the world”.
The current name, Haida Gwaii – meaning islands of the people in the Haida language – was legally granted in 2010 to recognize the history of the people – who, thanks to smallpox and other diseases, had dwindled to only 350 individuals by 1900, and who – thanks to Government and Church policies, lost much of their language and culture.
Today, Indigenous Haida make up about 45% of the 4500 people on the islands, mostly in the two main communities at Skidegate and Old Massett.
Their numbers might be small, but their connection to the place and to their own history within it is palpable.
Having finally arrived, I couldn’t wait to explore. But, tired from the challenge of the crossing the night before, I wanted to stay reasonably close to my accommodation in Daajing Giids – the ancestral name of what had only the month before been known as Queen Charlotte City.
I started with an easy afternoon walk around Spirit Lake in Skidegate Village.
Entry Gate Haida are renowned artist and carvers: their designs are seen everywhere – including on Canadian money. Here, at the entrance to Spirit Lake, we meet Wasco, the Sea Wolf – subject of a local myth. (iPhone12Pro)
Western Skunk Cabbage – Lysichiton Americanus The forest trails are dark and the ground is moist: the perfect environment for skunk cabbage, which loves the swamps and other wet areas in the Pacific Northwest woods. Fortunately, it is not currently in bloom, so the acrid odor is mild.
Western Sword Fern – Polystichum Munitum Ferns also love the shade, and grow profusely in the detrus at the base of the trees.
Walkers in the Woods It is still shoulder season: spring is drawing itself out with cool and rainy weather. I don’t see many other walkers on my circuit.
Splendid Feather Moss – Hylocomium Splendens Every fallen tree and every patch of leaf litter has a complex world of vegetation growing on it.
Lanky Moss – Rhytidiadelphus Loreus Some of the mosses even attach to upright tree trunks.
The Path I love these western forests – with their tall straight tree trunks stretching high to the sky.
Waterfall Water runs everywhere through here, under fallen tree trunks …
Wood in the Water … and past cut stumps and logs.
Nature’s Sculptures: Ferns on the Tree Trunks
False Lily of the Valley According to Wikipedia, Native Americans used this plant to treat wounds and eyestrain.
A Bend in the Path It’s a winding, twisty path through the trees.
Black Slug – Arion Ater Not my favourite creatures – but prolific in this wet climate.
Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis These cheerful and abundant ground-covers always make me smile.
Tree Trunks The girth of these trees gives some indication of their great height.
Draping Cedars
Cedar over the Path As trees reach for the light, they encroach on the narrow walkways.
Fallen Trees and Waterways Every shade of green is represented in the layers of growth.
Culturally Modified Tree Some of the trees have sections of bark – or even chunks of wood – removed for use in traditional practices. This is done in a way that allows the tree to continue its healthy growth.
Spirit Lake The lake comes into sight and the path takes me around it.
Fallen Logs on Spirit Lake Actually, it is two lakes – but unless you are looking at a map, that isn’t obvious.
Carved Tree Trunks
Leading Lines After looping the lakes, I walk back into the tall trees, …
Small Bridge … and back over the little wooden bridges. The afternoon light is fading as I return to my car.
The pictures do not really do the magic of the forest justice.
Maybe it was the fatigue, but I felt quite emotional walking the track, and I could have sworn the trees were talking to me.
The Temple Of Apollo The Portara, a giant marble gateway built in 530 BCE, is all that remains of an unfinished temple dedicated to Apollo. Today, it is a popular sunset spot and frames the 13th century Venetian castle and the modern tourist city of Chora (Naxos), Greece.
The Greek island of Naxos is a joy to visit. It lived up to its reputation as destination with a fascinating history, fabulous scenery, and wonderfully fresh food.
Naxos‘ long history stretches back across time – and even before recorded time: the young god Zeus was reputed to have been raised here – and one story says that Ariadne, the Minoan princess who helped Theseus escape the labyrinth on Crete (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace), was abandoned here.
Even the more prosaic history dates almost 200,000 years in the form of early Neanderthal tools found on the island. The Bronze age Cycladic civilisation (3100–c. 1000 BCE) is evidenced to have thrived here. Later, around 500 BCE, Naxos was considered the most prosperous of the Greek islands. After its rule under the Byzantine Empire, it was regularly raided by the Saracens who left their artistic influences behind in 10th century frescoes. Like much of this area, Naxos was under the influence of the Venetians from the early 13th century, and a fortified castle and sections of walls from those times exist to this day. The Ottomans ruled from 1566 until the revolution of 1821; the island became a formal part of the Greek State in 1835.
The largest of the Cycladic islands, Naxos has ability to be self sufficient. It is the most fertile of the islands, and unlike the others, has a good supply of fresh water thanks to Mount Zeus (1004 metres or 3294 feet) acting as a raincloud-trap. Its rich and varied agriculture has led to a number of niche food products – some of which we tried: a delicious dinner of regional specialties on the first evening; an explanation and sampling of rich and flavoursome olive oils; a tasting of kitron, the unique local liqueur made from citron (Citrus Medica) leaves; and a lunch we prepared ourselves from organically grown produce (see: From the Farm to the Table).
Truly, the whole visit was a treat. Do come along:
Unloading into Naxos We enjoyed a short morning crossing on the Blue Star Ferry from Paros (see: An Evening on Paros) to Naxos. (iPhone12Pro)
Golden Hour Like every other place I stayed in Greece, the Galaxy Hotel on Saint George Beach in Naxos was a delight. (iPhone12Pro)
Greek Orthodox Church In the evening, we took a stroll through the town of Naxos – also called Chora. Naturally, the local square features a typical blue and white church. (iPhone12Pro)
Evening on Naxos Harbour The sun is catching the clouds over the water as we walk around the harbour …
Naxos from the Temple of Apollo … … and across the narrow causeway to the islet of Palatia – the site of an unfinished Ancient Greek temple. (iPhone12Pro)
Dwarfed by the Gateway The visitors to the site are dwarfed by the massive scale of the Portara. This giant marble doorway is the only remaining part of the unfinished Temple of Apollo. Built in 530 BCE, it stands around 6 metres (20 feet) high and 3.5 metres (11 feet) wide; each of the carved pillars weighs about 18 tonnes.
Sunset over the Aegean According to one myth, this is the islet where Theseus abandoned Ariadne, the Minoan princess, after he killed the Minotaur on Crete (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace). Today, Palatia is a popular sunset spot. (iPhone12Pro)
Sundown on the Temple The sun drops into the sea, and we head back to the main island for the night. (iPhone12Pro)
Old Olive Press The next morning we drove to a nearby farming village and visited the small Eggares Olive Oil Museum.
Explaining the Press There, we were given an explanation of traditional extraction methods, and better yet: plenty of different types of olive oil to sample.
View from the Bus After our cooking class and lunch in Galini Village (see: From the Farm to the Table), we drove south towards Halki (Chalkio or Chalki) in the centre of the island. (iPhone12Pro)
The Historic Vallindras Kitron Distillery Halki was once the capital and main trade centre of Naxos.
Hostess … where we are told the history of the distillery, and offered a tasting of kitron, the unique citrus liqueur made from the leaves of the local citron tree.
Church Tower Halki is home to over 30 Byzantine churches. We took a short walk to one of them: the 11th century Church of Saint George Diasoritis.
Church of Saint George Diasoritis This pretty little church was build to the cross-in-square or crossed-dome plan that was the predominant architectural style of its day. Basically, an internal structure shaped like a cross is topped with a dome.
The Diasoritis Church The inside of the church is decorated with stone mouldings and priceless old frescos.
Old Olive Tree This region – Tragea – is the centre of olive cultivation on the island. The church sits in a grove of very old trees.
Halki Lane It is a short walk from the church back to town, following narrow lanes of houses …
Halki Street … into cobbled streets full of shops and restaurants.
Herbs It is hot, and the air is fragrant.
“Ring the Bells” It was the ringing of the bells that drew me to the Church of Panagia Protothrone. This small whitewashed church is thought to have been built during the first half of the 9th century. (iPhone12Pro)
Halki Courtyard You are never far from food and drink – providing the taverna or coffee shops aren’t observing the 2-5pm messimeri, or quiet time.
Sun over a Halki Street The afternoon sun is still high and bouncing off the time-worn whitewashed walls as we leave the charming village behind and return to our bus.
So far, I was enchanted by this beautiful island – and I still had another day to explore its offerings.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Until next time,
I couldn’t wait to explore more of this lovely town.
Until then,
Until then,.jpg)
