Munnar Tea From high in a hill station in the Western Ghats, I have views over the extensive tea plantations, and down to the three rivers that give the town of Munnar, in India’s Kerala Province, its name.
Finally!
The day dawned clear, and while the mists cloaked the distant mountains, the extensive green hills covered in tea bushes and silver oak trees that surrounded my ‘resort’ had at long-last come into view.
I had booked myself in for a week’s stay above Munnar, a town in the Western Ghats in India’s southern state of Kerala (see: In the Green Tea Plantations of Munnar). This hill station was once a resort for the British Raj elite; today it is surrounded by tea plantations first established in the late 19th century. It is clearly a popular holiday destination for local families: I seemed to be the only ‘foreigner’ in the district.
But, the rain had finally stopped! My driver wasn’t due to return from Kochi until the afternoon, so I took my cameras for a walk to a local waterfall.
The Periya Canal Waterfall is an overflow from a man-made canal, and even though it was a Sunday, the roadside was busy with people washing their cars and trucks with the ‘free’ water. It was a pleasant short walk, and it was good to get out of my room.
Join me for a stroll:
Malabar Flameback Woodpecker – Chrysocolaptes Socialis Endemic to this region of southwestern India with its foothill forests and wet lowlands, this beautiful bird was outside my room when I woke in the morning.
The Winding Road Below I’m not a tea drinker. As this is India, I couldnot get a decent cup of coffee in the breakfast room. I could – at least – look over the patterns made by the tidy evergreen tea plants (Camellia sinensis) below. Against the hill, silver oak trees (Grevillea robusta), native to Australia, provide shelter from strong winds and shade from the sun.
Red-Whiskered Bulbul – Pycnonotus Jocosus On of the things that always amazes me about India – especially given its enormous population – is the wildlife everywhere. After breakfast, a melodious warble attracts my attention to a native bulbul on a sign along the road.
Deliveries on a Bike Bikes are a cheap and popular mode of transport; riders are often laden with goods as they make their way around the potholes.
Pots and Pans and Potholes
Over Munnar I continue to get views over the tea and down to the river confluence as I walk along the dusty road.
Tea Leaves Fresh buds of tea leaves rise from the neatly trimmed bushes.
Into the Distance Up the road, rocky bluffs rise above the tea.
Pedestrian with a Load I am not the only pedestrian on the road: everywhere you go in India, you will see people walking with loads on their heads.
Bird on a Wire According to Google, this is a western yellow wagtail (Motacilla flava). To me, it is a reminder of Leonard Cohen.
Periya Canal Waterfall It turns out that this little waterfall is an overflow from a canal.
Washing the Car The waterfall’s location – next to the road – makes it a popular car-wash spot.
Corn-Seller The spot’s popularity means that the vendors are out with their wares.
Washing the TukTuk All manner of vehicles are being washed in turn.
Tea on the Hill
A Colourful Fence Local buildings are wildly colourful. Apparently, this is a temple to a popular Indian Hindu goddess.
Sales Kiosk Little stalls with sweets, tobacco, and soft drink are everywhere.
Tea and a Bluff
Green After days of rain, the tea bushes are green and fresh.
Chestnut-Headed Bee-Eater – Merops Leschenaulti My lenses don’t have the range and I don’t have the patience … but I spent ages watching these fast-moving little guys darting around the bushes.
Tea Sales Later that day, I visited an outlet – and bought some tea I would never drink.
The best part of being a lone foreigner in a strange (but safe) environment is getting a glimpse into ordinary life.
Buying a few packs of tea I would never drink is a small price to pay!
Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum These popular imported deciduous trees thrive in the cool temperate climate of Mount Tomah in Australia’sBlue Mountains; they put on a magnificent, full-colour display in autumn.
Like the changing of the year, the transition of the seasons makes for a good time to reflect: to sweep out the old and make way for new growth.
One of the sites developed and managed by the Royal Botanic Gardens and Domain Trust based in Sydney, these gardens sit at 1,000 metres (3281 feet) above sea level in the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Blue Mountains. The gardens, in the Jamison Valley’s rainforest, are home to more than 4,000 species of plants. They extend over 28 hectares (69 acres) of beautifully manicured gardens and wandering pathways.
The altitude and location give the gardens their cool temperate climate, making them suitable for many exotic and unusual plants from around the world. Unlike much of Australia, there are four distinct seasons here – meaning that the non-indigenous plants can properly show off their colourful autumn displays.
I had always meant to visit – but never quite made it. On one of my visits to the other side of the Blue Mountains (eg: Wanders Blue Mountains), friends of mine suggested it as a halfway meeting point for a get-together. I made sure to bring the cameras, and arrive early enough to wander through some of the pathways before lunch.
Join me for some of the brilliant colours of change:
Entry to the Blue Mountains Botanic Garden The expansive viewing deck and visitor centre offer views over the gardens to the Jamison Valley and the mountains beyond.
Basalt Rock Spiral This elegant sundial sculpture was built from local basalt rock, formed from volcanic lava flows between 14 and 17 million years ago. When it decomposes, this basalt produces the rich, fertile, red/brown soil that gives this pocket of the Blue Mountains its rich diversity of plant life.
Trees in the Gardens
Weeping Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum var. Dissectum There are over 1,000 varieties (cultivars) of Japanese maples, defined by vast differences in leaf shape, size, and color.
Golden Full Moon Maple – Acer Shirasawanum Aureum
Red Blooms Rhododendrons are another large group of plants: from small shrubs to the giant trees in the Himalayas.
Colours in the Garden Every turn in the path brings a new colour palette.
Red Japanese Maple – Acer Palmatum
Sun in the Maples
Leaves on Fire Japanese maples (acer palmatum) put on a brilliant autumn display.
Norway Maple – Acer Platanoides There are about 132 species of maple trees (Acer) across the world, with all but one being native to the northern hemisphere.
Looking up to Bellbird Cafe
Stone Spiral From the Bellbird Cafe, there are views down over the granite sundial that was installed in 1992 to commemorate the garden’s fifth anniversary.
Soft Tree Fern – Dicksonia Antarctica Native to eastern Australia, soft tree ferns are found in rainforests, wet sclerophyll forests, and gardens, from south-east Queensland to Tasmania.
Red and Blue
Tulip Tree – Liriodendron Tulipifera
Rocks in the Rockpool
Waterfall in the Rock Garden
Parrot Pitcherplant – Sarracenia Psittacina The special soils around the rock pool support a wide variety of plants from around the world.
The fresh air and vibrant colours make for a lovely place to spend some time in rest and refection.
Wishing you and yours a happy and peaceful New Year.
Salads, Skewers, and Terrine Food is the centre of French life – which is why the market hall in Cahors, Southern France, calls itself “le cœur et l’âme de la ville” – “the heart and soul of the city”.
If you Google “French” and “food” you will get chapter and verse on culinary artistry, precision techniques, high-quality ingredients, and deep cultural significance.
On my first trip to France – many, many years ago – I was working for some friends at a small auberge in Parignargues. There, I was introduced to concept of the gastronomic meal: we hosted a few weddings where the set regime of courses seemed to go forever. Plate after plate: a starter, a salad course, a fish course, a soup course, a meat course (or two), a desert course, and finally the traditional wedding cake: a croquembouche – that towering concoction of profiteroles (cream puffs) glued together with spun sugar. At the end of serving the meal, late into the night, I was always dead on my feet.
But, it was if I had been adopted: as I said goodnight to our guests, they all insisted on kissing me three times on the cheeks in farewell. This social practice of setting structured multi-course meals to celebrate important life events is so central to French life that the it is listed by UNESCO for its Intangible Cultural Heritage.
I was reminded of the importance of food to the French on my most recent stay. I was visiting with a long-time friend and her partner in Cahors in Southern France, and discussions about meals were central to our days. Even “simple” home-cooked plates were works of art, and eating out was an absolute event.
Join me for a small taste of regional cuisine:
Presentation Plus! Even dinner at home is a work of art. Sausages from one’s favourite butcher are teamed with locally sourced vegetables, rich Dauphinoise potatoes, and a lovingly made sauce.
Wine and Gin I had forgotten that shops and services in Southern France typically close for two or more hours in the middle of the day, so it was a few days before I found the market hall open when I was free.
Olives I love markets: the colours, patterns, and textures are everywhere. Of course, low light and cramped, busy spaces make for a photographic challenge.
At the Counter The market is only closed on Mondays and Public Holidays. Deliberating over what to buy for the next meal is an almost daily event.
Cheeses As Kate says in the movie French Kiss: “Those French…. they have a whole relationship with dairy products I don’t understand.” Cheese is a central part of that relationship, …
Bouton de Culotte … and it comes in every shape and size. These little “panty buttons” are made from whole raw milk.
In the Market Hall Built in 1865, the hall itself was originally a grain market. Across the 1930s, local agricultural practices changed, and the market began to offer a broader range of foods. That wonderful roof was renovated 1960s and 70s, and the stalls have been revamped many times.
Truffle Sauce Several species of truffle are prized as food, with different types historically found across different regions of France and Italy. Today, truffles are cultivated and harvested in natural environments around the world, but they are still associated with haute cuisine.
Meringues Light, airy, and sweet: meringues are a French invention, first recorded in a French printed cookbook in 1692.
Vegetable Pie
Pissaladière A regional specialty, the pissaladière, is a pastry or flatbread base covered in a thick layer of sweet, slow-cooked caramelized onions, and garnished with anchovy fillets and black olives. The first written recipe was found in Provence in a document dated 879 CE.
Choosing Groceries I love watching the thoughtfulness with which people choose their items.
Local Specialities Shop windows in the old town feature colourful displays of local specialities.
Sales Clerks at the Counter My friend was after something particular, so we stopped into another specialty shop.
Portrait of a French Salesclerk This young salesman was remarkably patient with my very-bad French!
Home-Made Pissaladière … to enjoy the beautifully-hand crafted (and tasty!) tart that Patrick has made for our lunch.
Fine Dining in Restaurant Les Jardins True French know where the good restaurants are hidden! Parnac is only 20km (12mi) from Cahors, and only a half-hour drive – but it feels like more on dark country roads. This tiny restaurant with strictly-timed bookings has a set seven-course menu. This is our third course: “Noix De Veau De Montamel En Mi-Cuisson Bavaroise De Thon, Concasse De Tomate Et Sarriette Dernieres Courgettes En Grenobloise“; medium-rare veal from Montamel with tuna Bavarian cream, crushed tomatoes and savory zucchini Grenobloise.
The Cheese Course: Assiette De Fromages Et Condiments My companions analysed each plate carefully.
Creamy Matcha Tea Shortcrust Pastry and Fresh Strawberry Mochi Ice Cream, Barley Pudding with Roasted Watermelon and Strawberry Water
Champignons Farci au Fromage Frais aux Herbes Échalotes et Pignons de Pin Back in Paris after my delicious southern sojourn, I stuck to a single course – but enjoyed it just as much!
Here’s hoping you enjoy good food and great company over this festive season.
Salmonberry – Rubus Spectabilis Mid-June is salmonberry season. These brambles can slow down your walking progress: both by tangling over the trails and by tempting you with their fruit.
I loved just about every minute I stayed on Haida Gwaii, that archipelago off the coast of British Columbia (BC) in Canada’sNorth Pacific waters. I knew I would spend most of my time walking in the old-growth woods and exploring the Haida Nation’s cultural history; what I didn’t expect was to be wowed by the food.
Whether I was foraging berries everywhere I walked, eating a freshly cooked salmon burger with caesar salad on my lap al fresco (see: Birds and Boats around the Waterways), or sitting down to one of several casual fine dining options comprising fresh, locally-grown produce, I relished every meal.
So, I really had to walk or I’d no longer fit into my clothes!
Most days, I hopped in the rental car with my local tourist map to explore hikes in the far reaches of the islands. But, there were a few days when I stayed close to base in the principal town of Daajing Giids on northern Graham Island. Thanks to the AllTrails app, one day I found a walk which actually started in town.
Naturally, I needed lunch first – and enjoyed a fresh locally-inspired platter at a Mediterranean restaurant just a few blocks from the start of the Charlie Hartie South Lake Trail. Charlie Hartie was an early pioneer in what was then called Queen Charlotte.
I don’t know what South Lake looks like – the path splits in two part way in, and I followed the other track. This might have been a mistake: I didn’t see anything particularly impressive before the trail just fizzled out. Looking at the AllTrails reviews, I’m not alone in finding this hike underwhelming. But, at least the four km (2.5 mi) out-and-back track allowed me to get some fresh air, to forage for ripe berries, and to justify the glorious meals I’d eaten at lunch and the evening before!
Join me for some wonderful food and a short walk in the woods:
Salad Starter Who could resist this salad of locally-grown golden beets, tomatoes, goat cheese, and pea shoots? Delicious! (iPhone12Pro)
The Main The Blacktail menu is short – but it is all tempting. I had the homemade tagliatelle with a crimini mushroom duxelle, goat cheese, and truffle oil. (iPhone12Pro)
Men in the Kitchen These are the young men responsible for the fabulous food at Blacktail, one of a select number of restaurants in Daajing Giids. (iPhone12Pro)
Path Marker Thanks to a passing dog-walker, I found the trail-head and set off on the moderately-challenging Charlie Hartie South Lake Trail.
Salmonberries – Rubus Spectabilis The salmonberries slowed me down: both because the track was overgrown with them, and because they were so “more-ish”.
Through the Brambles Fortunately, salmonberries don’t snag nearly as badly as blackberries!
Clam Shells There are shells nestled in the damp, mossy ground marking the way. Unfortunately, I have no idea what they are telling me!
Pathway through the Ferns As I gain altitude, the path is less boggy underfoot and less choked with brambles.
Black Slug – Arion Ater These slugs are so common I thought they were indigenous. They are not! But they love this wet, shady ground.
Look Up! Haida Gwaii is home to a number of giants, especially sitka spruce, western hemlock, western red cedar, and yellow cedar – all growing straight and tall to chase the sun.
Bear’s Bread – Ganoderma Applanatum I was fascinated by these bracket fungi, which I first saw on Moresby Island (see: Mr Fungus).
New Growth
Nature’s Artworks : Tree Trunks Patterns are everywhere.
Spider’s Web
Trail Markers in the Tangle Almost an hour in, the rough tracks diverge. This probably explains why I never saw a lake! Both directions were similarly overgrown.
Another Bracket Fungus These mushrooms are very tough – making them suitable for scrimshaw and other carving, but less good for eating.
Nature’s Abstracts : Sitka Spruce Tree Bark The bark of the sitka spruce is patterned in thin, asymmetrical patches.
Water over Rocks Back towards the trail head, Hartie Creek tumbles over mossy rocks.
Hartie Creek As I almost never drag a tripod along with me, I love playing with the iPhone’s long exposure feature. (iPhone12Pro)
A Muddy Path The sun breaks through the brambles, where buttercups love the boggy ground.
The wet ground told me I was almost back at my car – ready find some more fabulous food, and to plan the next day’s explorations.
It Looks Like Paradise One of the things I learned living and travelling in Asia is that “eco resort” is often code for “no infrastructure”. Ora Beach Resort looked like bliss from a distance. From the comfort of our small ship, we visited this deserted, mostly derelict and rubbish-strewn “resort” on Pulau Seram – the largest of the islands in Indonesia’s Maluku province.
The best way to visit the Maluka’s (Malakas, Moluccas) in the eastern part of Indonesia is by ship.
These were once known as the Spice Islands. The nutmeg, mace, and cloves that grew here – and nowhere else – attracted the attention of 16th century European colonial powers. The Spice Wars of the 1500s were the result. Bloody battles between the Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, and English lasted through to the mid-1600s, paying scant regard for the local populous. In 1652 the Dutch took total control – and held it for a hundred years. To this day, colonial buildings remain to bear witness to this period.
Those early mariners spent years at sea, travelling in wooden sailing vessels that were at the mercy of the winds. We were much more luxuriously accommodated on the Australian-registered Coral Geographer.
Even so, it wasn’t the smoothest trip that ever was, and we seemed to come up against a number of obstacles to going to the actual destinations in our original itinerary.
A long-malfunctioning port azipod – a mysterious part that usually provides half the propulsive power for the ship – had – after a protracted wait – been repaired in Sorong (see: On the Lands and Waters), and we were finally able to set off at normal speed. In the course of three days, we then made visits to four different islands in the Malukas.
Our first stop was Pulau Besar, a deserted island in the Ceram (Seram) Sea off the north coast of Pulau Seram-Sawai. There, we could wander a short stretch of beach or snorkel on the beautiful outer reefs.
In the afternoon, we were meant to visit Sawai Village, a traditional fishing village with a picturesque reputation on Pulau Seram-Sawai, the largest of the Maluku Islands. Unfortunately, we were told that a local dispute had flared into violence, and our visit would therefore be ill-advised. We were transported instead to a deserted and isolated resort further down the coast of the island.
After a day at sea around Pulau Seram-Sawai, we crossed from the Seram Sea into the Banda Sea. Once we finally stopped, we enjoyed for some snorkelling on the uninhabited private island of Pulau Molana (Maolana). That island is home to coconut crabs, the world’s largest land-dwelling arthropods. Unfortunately, the only ones I saw were tethered and ready for the cooking pot!
Following lunch, we had a visit to Saparua, one of 17 administrative villages on that eponymous island. We had a ceremony on the green which included a welcoming Lenso dance and vigorous Cakalele warrior dance. For me, the high point was a visit to the Dutch colonial Fort Duurstede, where I was able to interact with local visitors and the school children who had danced and sung for us.
Come for a visit to some pristine and beautiful tropical islands
On the Bridge From the bow of our small ship, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, the tropical seas stretch out in front.
Snorkelers Our tenders took us on a morning run to Pulau Besar, “Big Island”, where we had clear skies and clearer waters. A stunning coral shelf ran parallel to the length of the beach.
Under the Waters I bought myself a silicone phone cover in preparation for this trip. It wasn’t perfect, and the colours don’t do the reality justice – but it was better than nothing!
Ora Beach Huts We were meant to be visiting Sawai Village on Pulau Seram, but a local dispute had apparently turned violent. So, our tenders transported us to a deserted resort on the island. Those huts over the water were new and unfinished – but the rest of the isolated resort was in complete disrepair.
Clear Waters and Impenetrable Jungle This island is traversed by a central mountain range and covered with dense rain forests. The area attracts birders: it is home to 117 species of birds on the island: 14 of which are endemic.
Overlooking the Waters The bulbs overhead suggest electricity, but nothing was operating when we were there.
Explorer Two Our flat-bottomed tenders could land us just about anywhere.
Old Boat in the Jungle Like the old accommodation cabins, most of the boats at the resort had seen better days.
Ora Beach Boat This was the transportation to-and-from the resort for the representatives that met us. Roads don’t penetrate these mountainous jungles.
The White Sands of Pulau Molana Two days later, we were snorkelling off another deserted beach – this time in the Banda Sea.
Ripples in the Waters and Rough Volcanic Rock Walking to the rough volcanic rock at the top of this Pulau Molana beach, you can then drift along in the current, over colourful fish and magnificent coral.
On the Ukulele At our next stop, the local Saparua school children played and sang for our entertainment.
Welcome Music
The Lenso (Handkerchief) Welcome Dance This is the courtyard of the local school.
Choir Girls
Cakalele Warrior Dance This traditional dance celebrates the Maluku people’s heroic spirit, resilience, and connection to ancestors.
Cakalele Warrior
Inside Benteng Duurstede From the Dutch fort, we have views over the village.
Three Friends The fort attracts visitors from nearby islands.
Young Musicians Many of the school children followed us up into the fort, and happily posed on the battlements.
“Right Twice a Day”
Warrior on the Fort The fort was built in 1676 – but has been heavily renovated since then.
Little Musicians
Little Cuties These children were adorable! Shells are a big part of the local cultures.
Local Hero Thomas Matulessy (1783 – 1817), also known as Kapitan Pattimura, or simply Pattimura, was born here in Saparua. He had a complicated military history, but became a symbol of the Indonesian struggle for independence.
King Neptune and Queen Salacia We had crossed the equator twice on this trip. As is customary, those who are crossing for the first time need to pay a sacrifice in an Equator Crossing Ceremony.
A Dramatic Sky No matter what our days held, we could almost always guarantee a glorious tropical sunset.
These were just four of the roughly thousand islands in the Maluka’s …
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Buying a few packs of tea I would never drink is a small price to pay!
Here’s hoping you enjoy good food and great company over this festive season.
These were just four of the roughly thousand islands in the Maluka’s …
