View of Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park, Northern Territory, Australia

Wangi Falls
One of the most popular attractions in Litchfield National Park in Australia’s Northern Territory, these magnificent falls are just one of several double-plunge waterfalls in the area.

Litchfield National Park is an ancient landscape shaped by water. It features numerous stunning waterfalls that cascade from the sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range.

So says the official Northern Territory (NT) Fact Sheet.

I hadn’t been in Australia’s expansive – and sparsely populated – central-northern regions for a long time (see: Colours in the Heart of Australia), and it had been even longer since I’d been to the country’s “Top End”. So, I was looking forward to a short stay in Darwin, the region’s capital and main population centre.

But, as much as I enjoyed walking around the city in “wet season”, I made sure to get out into one of the magnificent National Parks nearby. With only a short amount of time available to me, a day-trip to Litchfield – where I’d never been – seemed like the best option.

The park is about 120 km (75 mi) south-west of Darwin, and the bonus is that the roads there are mostly paved. Myself, and two younger visitors from Germany, were picked up from our hotel early, and set off with a driver/guide in a small van.

No thinking required!

Our guide told us that the massive property was willed back to the Northern Territory government as a National Park by the owner, who didn’t want the pristine beauty of the area exploited by his offspring. I can’t corroborate that, but it was originally part of several pastoral leases in the region, and became a park in 1986. It was named for a Territory pioneer: pastoralist, gold miner, and explorer, Frederick Henry Litchfield.

However the Park happened, we can be very thankful that it was formed! It truly is a stunning area – and so accessible to Darwin.

View over Darmin downtown at sunrise, NT Australia

Sunrise from my Room
Darwin has grown since I was last here 20 years ago, but the wet season skies are still dramatic and beautiful.

Domesticated water buffalo, NT Australia

Scenes from the Bus : Water Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis)
Our guide (who also farms) called these Indonesian water buffalo; their horns are shorter than those I’m used to seeing across Southeast Asia. Water buffalo were originally imported into the NT in the 19th century as working animals and for their meat. Today, they are often farmed for live export.

Cathedral termite mound, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Cathedral Termite Mound
We made a couple of stops at convenience stores to allow us to buy our lunches; our first tourist stop was at a termite mound. Home to a colony of cathedral termites (Nasutitermes triodiae), this feat of architectural engineering – built from mud, plant parts, and termite saliva and feces – is over 50 years old.

St Andrews cross spider, Cathedral termite mound, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

St Andrews Cross Spider – Argiope Spp
The ripples on the termite mound are host to a few rather decorative spiders.

View of Florence Falls, , Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Florence Falls
Breathtakingly beautiful, the segmented falls on Florence Creek tumble down 64 metres (210 ft) from the sandstone Tabletop Plateau into a popular plunge-pool below.

Women on the metal walkway, Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

On the Metal Walkway
Our guide took us along the Shady Creek Walk, which comprises a metal walkway and a lot of stairs.

Blue spiderwort in bloom, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Blue Spiderwort – Commelina Tuberosa
There were plenty of wildflowers to admire …

Broadleaf trees, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Under the Canopy
… as we worked our way through the woods …

Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Florence Creek
… and along the creek.

Flying foxes roosting, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Grey-Headed Flying Foxes – Pteropus Poliocephalus
High in the palms overhead, nocturnal flying foxes roost: chattering and jostling continuously.

Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Around the Falls
The falls themselves – when we come to them – are beautiful.

Two women in the waters at Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Women in the Falls
My travel companions take full advantage of the pleasantly warm waters in the plunge pools.

Wet wall at Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Wet Walls
All around us, the sandstone walls rise steeply …

Fern leaf in front of Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Fern on the Rock Face
… and plants cling to any crevices they find.

Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Rocks in the Creek
Running away from the rock pools, the creek tumbles over boulders …

Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Green Reflected
… and collects in small reflective pools.

Florence Creek waters, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Almost Abstract : Clear Waters in the Woods

Mottled tree trunk, Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Nature’s Artworks : Palm Tree Camouflage
I was told this is a Florence Falls palm (Hydriastele wendlandiana).

Path through the Savanna Woodland, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Into the Grass
The change from Monsoon Forest into Savanna Woodland along our walk away from the falls is as dramatic as it is surprising.

A quiet spot on Florence Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

A Quiet Corner
And then – back into the woods!

Waters racing through the upper Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Buley Rockhole – Upper Pools
A short drive away, we stop at the Buley Rockholes: beautifully clear, interconnected pools suitable for a plunge.

Waters racing through the upper Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Over the Rocks
Being spring-fed, the Buley Rockhole waters are much cooler than those at the bathing spots under Florence Falls.

Black clouds over the Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Buley Rockhole
A short while later as we leave the pools, we could see the dark clouds rolling in – carrying plenty of tropical rain.

Pink elephant creeper, Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Elephant Creeper – Argyreia Nervosa

Palms and grasses in Wangi Creek, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Palms and Grasses
Our last stop within the park allows us a short walk along Wangi Creek

Wangi Falls through the trees, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Wangi Falls
… to another beautiful segmented waterfall.

Crocodile trap, Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Crocodile Trap
Wangi Falls is a popular recreation spot, but crocodiles are a very real risk factor, and the area is closed to swimmers after high rains.

Golden orb web spider, Wangi Falls, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Golden Orb Web Spider – Nephila Philipes
I love these beautiful, big, spiders.

Two blue-winged kookaburras in a tree, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Blue-Winged Kookaburra – Dacelo Leachii
I’m used to seeing laughing kookaburras (Dacelo novaeguineae), but watching a pair of these large kingfishers – native to northern Australia and southern New Guinea – chattering in the trees overhead, was a real treat.

Common crow butterfly on a metal bench, Litchfield National Park, NT Australia.

Common Crow Butterfly – Euploea Core
It is always a joy for me to capture any wildlife – even these more common types!

Text: Take only Pictures

Aside from a small freshwater crocodile in a tank at the pub we stopped at on our way out of the park, we didn’t see any crocs – which is fine with me! Dangerous – often fatal attacks – are not uncommon in the north of Australia.

Overall, it was a great day out, and I’d certainly put Litchfield National Park on a list of ‘must sees’ in Australia’s Top End.

Photos: 18March2025

Mud brick houses, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Bricks and Stones
Thirteen months after the devastating earthquake on September 8, 2023, the mud-brick houses of Aït Aïssa in the Azzaden Valley, Morocco, still show the scars.

Back in September of 2023, Morocco was rocked by an earthquake – with devastating consequences.

More than 2,900 people were killed and a further 5,500 injured (see: The Centre for Disaster Recovery). Over two million dwellings were damaged – displacing at least 500,000 people.

Although the effects of the 6.8-magnitude quake were felt in the popular tourist destination of Marrakesh, it was nearer the epicentre – 71km (44 miles) to the southwest in Al Haouz Province – where the majority of deaths and injuries occurred. This is a predominantly rural and mountainous area, with tiny villages of mud-brick houses – many of them only accessible by donkey or motor bike.

What shocks me most is how little news of this disastrous event crossed my feeds and into my awareness – even though I had plans to travel to that very region. 

Just over a year later, I was staying in the Azzaden Valley, less 50 km (30 mi) from the epicentre of the quake. I had undertaken the rugged 12 kilometer- (7 mile-) trek into the tiny village of Aït Aïssa from Imlil the day before (see: Over the Tedli Saddle), and could fully appreciate how difficult rescue and restoration efforts must have been. (Later in my travels, I was in nearby Ouirgane, where a whole community was still living in tents.)

The Azzaden Trekking Lodge in Aït Aïssa where I was staying calls itself luxury accommodation; it is not as luxurious as the Kasbah Tamadot, the boutique 4.5-star hotel built by Richard Branson in nearby Asni, mind you, but it had everything I needed – including a spa bath in my ensuite! – and certainly was much more comfortable than the damaged houses all around. 

After the bone-jarring, muscle-testing hike the day before, I was looking forward to a relatively easy day walking around the Azzaden Valley. Of course, nothing in the High Atlas is easy! The six-and-a-bit kilometre (3.8 mi) circuit was up and down and over and up again – following rough water channels, narrow laneways between broken buildings, and donkey paths into the unknown. 

Join me for a walk:

Man on the path, Aït Aïssa, High Atlas Morocco.

Setting Out
My local trekking guide heads off through Aït Aïssa, past a newly rebuilt building of stone and brick – hopefully reinforced this time!

Sun flare over broken brick buildings, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Morning in the Ruins
The morning sun catches the edges of earthquake-damaged buildings.

Shadows in a narrow lane, Aït Aïssa, Morocco

Metal Door
The sun can’t reach all the way into the narrow lanes between the multi-story buildings.

Looking down over a man with sheep on the new road, Aït Aïssa Morocco

Herding his Sheep
Like the many other tiny villages around the Azzaden Valley, Aït Aïssa clings to the side of the mountain.

Green orchards in the Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

The Azzaden Valley
The valley is green and fertile in the lower reaches, terraced with orchards and market gardens.

Wooden crates of apples in dappled light, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Apple Crates
This part of the valley is home to apple orchards, …

A wooden crate of apples in dappled light, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Apples
… and autumn is harvest season.

Red rocky ground with water running through, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Guide on the “Path”
Some of the “walking paths” follow rough watercourses; without my guide, I’d never have found the way!

Red rocky ground with water running through, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Into the Sunshine
The water travels downhill; our path flanks the mountainside. I’m still tired from the day before, and my guide has to stop and wait for me at regular intervals.

Close up: sunlight on common leadwort flowers, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Common Leadwort – Plumbago Europaea

Small village on a mountainside, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Village on the Other Side
Small villages are dotted all around the valley.

Plastic crates of apples among new trees, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Apples in the Atlas
Apples are everywhere! My guide got me one from a tree: it was sweet, crisp, and delicious.

Plastic crates of red and green apples, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Red and Green
The steep mountain trail continues winding and dropping, and we end up overlooking an apple sorting and packing operation.

Overlooking an apple packhouse, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Apple Packhouse
The yard is busy with activity, …

Portrait: young Berber man, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Worker at the Packhouse
… but the local Berber men working there are happy to stop and have their pictures made.

Portrait: young Berber man, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Berber Man at the Packhouse

Small village on a mountainside, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Mosque in the Middle
Every small village is centred around its mosque, with its distinctive square minaret tower.

Painted metal door, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Metal Door and Rubble
Spots of colour contrast with the piles of rubble waiting to be rebuilt.

Woman at the top of a rough stone stairway, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Woman on the Stairs
People in these mountains get their stair-stepping in just going about their daily lives.

Woman outside her mud-brick home, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Woman at Home
Where sections of the buildings have fallen away, you can see how the old adobe structures were reinforced only with straw.

Damaged housing, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Half-Housing
The rebuilding process is slow – but at least it includes steel reinforcement.

Environmental portrait: two Berber girls, Azzaden Valley, High Atlas Morocco.

Girls Snacking
Local girls share a giggle and a snack – possibly walnuts, which also grow in the valley.

Environmental portrait: two Berber girls, Aït Aïssa, High Atlas Morocco.

Girls on their Phone
Some things are the same all over the world. Back in my lodge, two young girls attached to the household were watching videos on their phone …

View over the Azzaden Valley, Aït Aïssa, High Atlas Morocco.

View from the Azzaden Trekking Lodge
… while outside, the afternoon sun shines over the valley.

Roads are being build, and houses are being repaired, but it’s a slow recovery in this remote valley of relatively low economic wealth.

I couldn’t help but feel extremely fortunate as I luxuriated in my spa-bath, soaking away some of the aches and pains in preparation for the next day’s early start: around the other side of the mountain and back to Imlil in the neighbouring Ait Mizane Valley.

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaUntil next time,

Stay Safe!

Pictures: 11October2024 

Inside the cloisters of Cahors Cathedral, France

Inside the Cloisters
Started in the 11th century, the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors was recognised as a French National Monument in 1862. In 1998, it was heritage-listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

The charming medieval town of Cahors in the Occitan Region of Southern France was full of delightful surprises.

The centrepiece of the town is the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral, a refuge on the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage, and – along with the Valentré Bridge (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) – a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Catholicism is the predominant religion in France, with between 47% and 88% of the population estimated to be Catholic – practicing or lapsed. The French Catholic Church was established in the 2nd century, and because of its continuous communion with the bishop of Rome, it was sometimes called the fille aînée de l’Église – the eldest daughter of the church. Clovis I was the first Frankish king to be baptized a Christian in 496 (or 508 – depending on who you read!) and the kings after him were all called the “eldest sons of the Church”.

While the broader relationship between church and state has often been less than smooth, for many centuries the parish church has been the center of village life in France. The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors truly was central to Cahors; it is now in the middle of the medieval quarter, and I passed it repeatedly on my various walks.

Architecturally, Cahors Cathedral is considered a fine example of the transition between the late Romanesque and Gothic traditions. It was consecrated in 1135, having been built on the site of an earlier 7th century church. I’ve forgotten much of what I learned about religious architecture back in my art-history classes at school, and was just happy to wander around, escaping the autumn rain and admiring the graceful lines. On my second visit, I was lucky enough to be treated to an organ recital!

Come for a visit:

Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
The cathedral is a commanding presence in the narrow streets of the old historic quarter.

Madonna
The statuary decorating the building is quite beautiful.

Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

The Apse of Cahors Cathedral from the Outside

In the cloisters, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

In the Cloisters
The cloister was rebuilt towards the end of the 15th century, reflecting the ornate Gothic style of the day.

In the cloisters, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Looking Out
The symmetrical garden in cloistre gives a feeling of calm.

In the cloisters, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Rain in the Cloisters
The light was completely different the next day when I returned to escape the rain.

Bell tower from Inside the cloisters, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Bell Tower Rising
The cathedral has a sturdy, fortified appearance. When it was build, the local bishops were also feudal lords, and probably sought some measure of protection.

Rain on a stone decoration, the cloisters, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Rain Falling

Dome and tower from inside the cloisters of Cahors Cathedral, France

A Dome and the Tower
The two Byzantine-style blue-slate covered domes in the cathedral are 32 meters (105 feet) high. From the medieval period, only those of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople stand taller. (iPhone15Pro)

Reflections in coloured windows, the cloisters of Cahors Cathedral, France

Reflections in the Coloured Windows

Organ inside the Cahors Cathedral, France

Organ
The Cahors organ was built between 1712-1714 and rebuilt in 1863. From inside the nave, the sound was glorious!

Traditional stained glass, Cahors Cathedral, France

Traditional Stained Glass
The classic stained glass windows are quite stunning: this one shows Saint Lawrence, Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Génulphus.

Contemporary stained glass, Cahors Cathedral, France

Modern Stained Glass : The Parables of St Mark’s Gospel
Contemporary windows were commissioned by the city, and installed in 2013 by artist Gérard Collin-Thiébaut and the master glazier Pierre-Alain Parot. Each window is composed from layers of pictures: old and newer ones, symbolising how art and faith are passed down and reinterpreted through the generations. The central panel here depicts the parable of the sower and the calming of the tempest.

Madonna and Child
In the Chapel of the Virgin, a colourful statue stands over the tomb of Alain de Solminihac, Bishop of Cahors from 1636 until his death in 1659.

The Angel of Lazaret sculpture by Marc Petit in Cahors France.

L’Ange du Lazaret in the Rain
Back outside in the rain, a more modern monumental bronze sculpture – the Angel of Lazaret by Marc Petit – is a sorrowful guardian of those people with infectious diseases who are sequestered away from the mainstream.

Stone flowers, north porch, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Cathedral Wall Textures
The porch of the north door of the cathedral is decorated with stone motifs.

Stone flower, north porch, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Flowers in the Stone

Coloured lights after dark, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Night Lights
After dark, the cathedral is lit up …

Coloured lights after dark, Cathédrale Saint Étienne de Cahors, France.

Light Show
… with a repeated sequence of colourful lights.

Just another delightful surprise!

I couldn’t wait to explore more of this lovely town.

Until then,

Bon Voyage!

Pictures: 25-26September2024

 

Afternoon light on shikara boats on Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Afternoon Light on the Waters
Being in a wooden shikara boat on Dal Lake – in the North Indian territory of Jammu and Kashmir – is like being transported into a Monet painting.

It was like a dream – indeed, a dream come true!

Kashmir had been on my ‘list’ since long before my first-ever trip to India, but opportunities had never quite lined up for me.

The beauty of the landscape is legendary. The land itself – the valley running between the Great Himalayas and the Pir Panjal Range – has long been disputed in a history too protracted and complicated to go into here. Today, portions of the overall region are administered by China, India, and Pakistan, with tensions and actual boundary disputes ongoing.

As recently as the end of October 2019, the whole Indian-controlled portion of the Kashmir Valley was locked down by the Indian government. Movement of people within the territory was limited, and Internet and phone services were blocked.

Although the Indian Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir (J&K) is quite safe for tourists today, Amnesty International still holds concerns for local citizens. I never once felt worried for myself or my belongings. I did, however, meet a number of locals who most emphatically expressed their personal concerns about laws which had recently been enacted by the central government in Delhi.

After a week in Rishikesh on my own (see: Colourful Gods and Endless Mountains), I met up with a small group of photography enthusiasts in Delhi for two weeks of travel through Kashmir and Ladakh. Our first week was to be based from a houseboat on Dal Lake in Srinagar, the summer capital of J&K.

To say I was excited would be an understatement! Join me for my first taste of the waters of “Srinagar’s Jewel.”

Environmental portrait: female flight attendant, IndiGo Airlines, India

IndiGo Flight Attendant
It’s about an hour and a half flight from Delhi to Srinagar.

The Himalaya and clouds from an airplane window, India

The Himalaya from the Aisle Seat
The Indian couple seated beside me kindly let me take pictures over their shoulders.

Row of shikara along a wooden dock, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Shikara Boats on Dal Lake
After about an hour in the bus from the airport, we are met by a colourful scene: countless decorated boats crowd the piers on the ghats along the lake.

Shikara on a wooden dock, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

“Happy Love Nest Deluxe”
These distinctive wooden boats are a cultural symbol of Kashmir. Today, they sport colourful advertising and unique names, and are mostly are used to ferry tourists.

A man standing and rowing on Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Boatman on Dal Lake
Many boatmen today, like this one, wear shalwar kameez (a long shirt over gathered trousers) rather than the more traditional Kashmiri pheran (a loose, long gown).

Shikara on Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Shikara Boat
Shikara are made from rot-resistant Himalayan cedar. Although they are shaped the same, with their colourful paint and patterned curtains, every boat looks different.

Woman harvesting lotus, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Daily Life on the Lake
The waters of the lake are rich in nutrients, and floating gardens of vegetables and water plants are an important part of the local economy.

Inside a houseboat bedroom, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

My Floating Palace Hotel Room
This is my home for the week: complete with an ensuite, wifi, and more room than I could possibly need. Then there was the food: the meals we were served were wonderful!

View over Dal Lake from a houseboat, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Our Front Garden : Lilies, Lotus, and Reeds
After our sumptuous lunch, I was finally able to unpack the cameras and explore. Of course, being on the water, I couldn’t go far! The boat my room was in was linked to two others by a gangplank; beyond that, you need a boat.

Two women in a shikara, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

In a Shikara
Boats have been ordered for us and we set off along the beautiful, meandering waterways.

Egret in the water reeds, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Little Egret – Egretta Garzetta
Although there are motor boats on the lake, most of the shikara are paddled, …

Indian pond heron on a stump, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii
… making our afternoon trip soporific, and leaving the wildlife undisturbed.

Pink lotus flowers, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Lotus in Bloom

Yellow shikara with red curtains, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

“Karma”
All around us, in the still heat of the afternoon, shikaras glide past – almost noiselessly – …

Common moorhen on the waters, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Common Moorhen – Gallinula Chloropus
… and waterbirds scrabble around in the reeds and leaf-litter for food.

Houseboats and shikaras on Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Houseboats and Transport Boats
Houseboats are clumped into neighbourhoods – the shikara operators who provide taxi services must understand the system!

Framed view of the back of another shikara, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

View through our Shikara

Young man smoking a water pipe, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Hookah Break
On the wooden gangways that join buildings, everyday life goes on. A young man with his shisha gives me a cheeky smile …

People with bags on a long rowboat, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Doing the Daily Shopping
… and a family loads their shopping into a low rowboat.

Shikara on the waterways, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Waterways
The waterways seem to go on forever – all in dappled afternoon light.

Environmental portrait: a smiling shikara boatman, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Our Boatman
Our boatman takes a short break from paddling to smile for my camera.

Men on the pier outside a small shop front, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Another Local Store
Men pause on the piers, to fish or just to rest …

Two men in a rowboat, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Men in a Rowboat
… while others continue on their water-born journeys.

Environmental portrait: smiling young man on a wooden pier, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Young Man on the Shore

Environmental portrait: woman on a wooden pier, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Woman on the Pier
I loved people-watching from our shikara

Afternoon light on shikara boats on Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Light on the Waters
… but it was that light – and the watery colours – that made me feel like I’d wandered into an Impressionist painting …

Men fishing from a walkway, Dal Lake, Jammu and Kashmir, India

Fishing from the Walkway
… or got lost in a dream.

The waterways seem to go forever.

I had no sense of space or distance and time lost all meaning.

But, clearly our boatmen knew when and where we were: in actuality, we had an appointment to visit a wood workshop – more about that later!

Text: Happy TravelsUntil then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 10September2023

Ferns on the forest floor, Spirit Lake walk Haida Gwaii Canada

Ferns on the Forest Floor
With the tops of the cedar, spruce, and hemlock trees high overhead, and their branches filtering the the light that reaches the ground, it is moist and dark on the floor of this magnificent temperate rainforest. The walk around Spirit Lake, near Skidegate in Haida Gwaii, Canada, is a magical introduction to this very special archipelago off the northern Pacific Coast of British Columbia.

There is something very special about Haida Gwaii.

It might be the fresh air and abundance of old-growth and second-growth forests; it might be knowing that the Indigenous people here have spiritual and family connections to the land going back more than 13,000 years; it might be the breathtaking natural beauty.

Whatever it is, these beguiling islands in the Pacific, off the northern coast of British Columbia (BC), Canada, feel magical and timeless.

I had been waiting a long time to visit: getting to Haida Gwaii is not particularly easy or cheap.

There are flights – but then you probably need to rent a car: getting around the islands without a vehicle is pretty difficult.

Most people arrive – as I did – by ferry from the northern BC city of Prince Rupert (see: Local History in Wood and Water). That is nominally an approximately 7 or 8 hour crossing. However, the wide but shallow waters of Hecate Strait can make for a rough passage and the crossing is weather-dependent. The day I was scheduled to travel, the ferry departure was delayed by 12 hours because of high winds. I arrived into Skidegate on Graham Island, the northern of Haida Gwaii’s two principle islands, well after midnight.

When I was growing up, these were known as the Queen Charlotte Islands: this was the name given to them by Captain George Dixon from the United Kingdom in 1787. At the time of Dixon’s maritime  explorations, about 30,000 Haida people lived in villages across the islands, which they called Xaadala Gwayee, or “islands at the boundary of the world”.

The current name, Haida Gwaii – meaning islands of the people in the Haida language – was legally granted in 2010 to recognize the history of the people – who, thanks to smallpox and other diseases, had dwindled to only 350 individuals by 1900, and who – thanks to Government and Church policies, lost much of their language and culture.

Today, Indigenous Haida make up about 45% of the 4500 people on the islands, mostly in the two main communities at Skidegate and Old Massett.

Their numbers might be small, but their connection to the place and to their own history within it is palpable.

Having finally arrived, I couldn’t wait to explore. But, tired from the challenge of the crossing the night before, I wanted to stay reasonably close to my accommodation in Daajing Giids – the ancestral name of what had only the month before been known as Queen Charlotte City.

I started with an easy afternoon walk around Spirit Lake in Skidegate Village.

Wasco, the Sea Wolf carved into a welcome arch, Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Entry Gate
Haida are renowned artist and carvers: their designs are seen everywhere – including on Canadian money. Here, at the entrance to Spirit Lake, we meet Wasco, the Sea Wolf – subject of a local myth. (iPhone12Pro)

Leaves of the western skunk cabbage, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Western Skunk Cabbage – Lysichiton Americanus
The forest trails are dark and the ground is moist: the perfect environment for skunk cabbage, which loves the swamps and other wet areas in the Pacific Northwest woods. Fortunately, it is not currently in bloom, so the acrid odor is mild.

Western sword fern, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Western Sword Fern – Polystichum Munitum
Ferns also love the shade, and grow profusely in the detrus at the base of the trees.

People on the path, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Walkers in the Woods
It is still shoulder season: spring is drawing itself out with cool and rainy weather. I don’t see many other walkers on my circuit.

Splendid feather moss and leaf litter, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Splendid Feather Moss – Hylocomium Splendens
Every fallen tree and every patch of leaf litter has a complex world of vegetation growing on it.

Close up: lanky moss on a tree, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Lanky Moss – Rhytidiadelphus Loreus
Some of the mosses even attach to upright tree trunks.

Path between tall tree trunks, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

The Path
I love these western forests – with their tall straight tree trunks stretching high to the sky.

Small waterfall in the woods, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Waterfall
Water runs everywhere through here, under fallen tree trunks …

Small creek in the woods, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Wood in the Water
… and past cut stumps and logs.

Ferns on tree trunks, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Nature’s Sculptures: Ferns on the Tree Trunks

Green leaf of a wild lily of the valley on a mossy log, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

False Lily of the Valley
According to Wikipedia, Native Americans used this plant to treat wounds and eyestrain.

A view over a bend in the path, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

A Bend in the Path
It’s a winding, twisty path through the trees.

Black slug on the path, Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Black Slug – Arion Ater
Not my favourite creatures – but prolific in this wet climate.

Bunchberry dogwood flower, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis 
These cheerful and abundant ground-covers always make me smile.

Path through large cedar tree trunks, Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Tree Trunks
The girth of these trees gives some indication of their great height.

Cedar boughs, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Draping Cedars 

Cedar bending over the path, Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Cedar over the Path
As trees reach for the light, they encroach on the narrow walkways.

View over forest and water, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Fallen Trees and Waterways
Every shade of green is represented in the layers of growth.

Tree trunk with a chink removed, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Culturally Modified Tree
Some of the trees have sections of bark – or even chunks of wood – removed for use in traditional practices. This is done in a way that allows the tree to continue its healthy growth.

Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Spirit Lake
The lake comes into sight and the path takes me around it.

Spirit Lake, Haida Gwaii Canada

Fallen Logs on Spirit Lake
Actually, it is two lakes – but unless you are looking at a map, that isn’t obvious.

Carved and burnished tree trunks, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Carved Tree Trunks

Tall trees on Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Leading Lines
After looping the lakes, I walk back into the tall trees, …

Small wooden bridge, Spirit Lake Trail, Haida Gwaii Canada

Small Bridge
… and back over the little wooden bridges. The afternoon light is fading as I return to my car.

The pictures do not really do the magic of the forest justice.

Maybe it was the fatigue, but I felt quite emotional walking the track, and I could have sworn the trees were talking to me.

Perhaps they were.

Until next time!

Pictures: 10June2022