Exploring the Cannery Even in the rain, the North Pacific Cannery on the Skeena River in British Columbia, Canada, is a charming place to explore.
It was raining.
But, it was early June – so still part of a wet spring – and I was only a 15 minute drive away from Prince Rupert, the rainiest city in Canada.
So, wet weather was to be expected.
I was staying in Prince Rupert while on a road trip around British Columbia (BC). The day before, I had treated myself to a boat trip into grizzly bear territory (see: Khutzeymateen Provincial Park). That evening, I had a booking for the evening ferry to Haida Gwaii (Watch this space!), so I needed a short, local excursion.
The North Pacific Cannery museum fit the bill perfectly!
Originally built in 1889, the site was restored after the North Coast Marine Museum Society was formed in 1979. Today it is the oldest surviving salmon cannery in BC and a designated national historic site.
Even today, this site feels remote. Back when the cannery was opened, it must have felt even more so! But, the huge seasonal salmon runs through these west-coast waters were ready to be tapped. In the days before refrigerated boats, the harvest had to be quickly processed near to the actual fishing grounds, and a number of self-contained cannery-communities – accessible only by rail or water – were built to house the workers required.
The North Pacific Cannery was the longest running of these operations, canning salmon through to 1968. Over time, it witnessed a lot of changes in the processing methodology. In the days before mechanisation, everything was done by hand: even the cans were made by Chinese tinsmiths! Some of the tools and machines from across the years are on display in the main cannery building. The administration offices and some of the residences are also open to wander through.
The catchphrase of the Museum is “History with a View”, and the site is indeed in the most magnificent setting, with clear waters and dramatic mountains all around. The high point for me, however, was Mama’s Mess House Cafe where I enjoyed a delicious lunch of historically inspired cuisine.
Join me for a rainy walk through some unique and original BC architecture:
The North Pacific Cannery National Historic Site From the parking lot, I already get a taste of the historical wooden buildings rising out of the waters of the Skeena River. Access to railways in the early 1900s changed the fortunes of many of these early enterprises.
Dock Ruins I love the tumble-down nature of a lot of the surrounds here; I much prefer this to a site that is overly-renovated, to the point where you have no sense of the age!
A Lunch in the Mess Corbin’s salmon chowder and Al’s butter biscuits made for a wonderful lunch and respite from the rain.
Al and Corbin The two young cooks agreed to pose for me before closing up shop.
The Skeena River from the North Pacific Cannery
Cannery Buildings The red shingle roofs make a nice contrast to the expanse of green forest.
Window in a Staff Cottage The cosy worker’s cottages were segregated by ethnic group – as were the jobs.
A Living Room Much of the First Nation- and Chinese-worker housing was removed when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway came through. Most of the Japanese-occupied buildings have been lost through obsolescence and neglect …
Still Life Found : a Tea Set and a Hurricane Lamp … but a few sample items have been put on display for illustrative purposes.
Bath House Japanese workers insisted on something resembling a traditional bath house.
An Old Kitchen
The House Next Door Wood is plentiful in these parts; flat ground is not so easy to come by. Houses on pylons over the water are not uncommon.
Wet Wooden Walkway The advantage of the rain (!!) is that it makes for wonderful reflections and shine. (iPhone12Pro)
History Lessons The site saw a lot of changes over its almost 90 years of continuous salmon production and fish processing.
“I See People!”
In the Rain
Textures in the Rust Most things are labeled with their purpose; I’m more interested in the patterns and shapes!
Cannery Machinery Over time, the process of canning salmon became much more mechanised.
Conveyer Belt This mechanisation lead, of course, to a loss of jobs.
Wheels and Gears I can’t remember what this is for – time travel, perhaps?
A Wet Wharf
More Lines and Angles Not all of the buildings are open to the public, but it was still lovely wandering across the wooden walkways.
Pylons in the Rain The walkways lead off in all directions.
Barn Swallow – Hirundo Rustica A little swallow was the only wildlife I saw that day!
It really was a lovely way to spend a few hours, and revisit some of British Columbia’s rich historical heritage.
The Next Generation At the family-run Platia Taverna and Cooking School on Naxos, we had hands-on practice making traditional Greek dishes under the watchful eyes of local cooks – all in an enviable setting.
One of the many joys of travel is the food – and the excuse to sample new cuisines.
I especially love participating in locally based cooking classes: not because I have any intention of replicating the recipes at home, but because I love photographing the colours and textures (eg: Weekly Wanders Cooking Class). I enjoy hearing about the local ingredients and the rationale behind putting them together in particular ways – and I relish eating the results.
Everywhere I went in Greece, the food was wonderful: every mouthful was bursting with fresh wholesomeness. So, I was really pleased to see that the small group I was travelling with in the Cyclades was going to have a cooking class at the Platia Restaurant in Galini Village on the island of Naxos.
In addition to making several dishes under the very-watchful eyes of three Greek women, we visited the family farm to see where some of the ingredients were sourced. The whole setting was idyllic, and the lunch – accompanied by home-made ouzo – was mouth-watering.
Join me for a freshly-cooked meal in Greece:
Everything is Ready When we arrived, shortly before 11am, everything was laid out neatly in the bright and airy restaurant space.
Utensils and the Garden Outside the large windows, the garden is fresh and inviting.
Sisters in the Kitchen The older cooks keep a very watchful eye on everything!
Implements Ready Gleaming like surgical instruments, the tools for preparing the vegetables are organised.
Demonstrating Technique The cooks show the participants how to core the capsicum in preparation for stuffing. (iPhone12Pro)
Chopping Herbs Meanwhile, herbs are chopped finely for the Tzatziki dip. (iPhone12Pro)
Still Life Found : Baskets of Vegetables (iPhone12Pro)
Home-Made Tomato Paste Rich tomato sauce is added to a cooked rice mixture. (iPhone12Pro)
Stuffing Capsicum The herbed rice and tomato mixture is stuffed into the cleaned capsicums before baking. (iPhone12Pro)
Stuffing the Vegetables We all spend some time stuffing the capsicums, eggplants, and other vegetables. (Not My Image)
Oiling the Vegetables … and they are drizzled with olive oil before going into a roasting oven. (iPhone12Pro)
Stuffed Vegetables Once the capsicum are stuffed, the caps are replaced, …
Frying Meatballs Next, it is time to mix, shape, and fry the meatballs. (iPhone12Pro)
A Natural Smile
Bicycle in the Yard The sun is high on the courtyard, …
A Clean Airy Space … and back inside, the room has been magically put back to rights!
To the Farm While our vegetables roast, we take a short trip to the nearby farm property. (iPhone12Pro)
Farmer in his Orchard The owner leads us into his property.
Past the Hives
Quince – Cydonia Oblonga
Farmer Our guide points out some of the fruit that is ripening, …
Citron – Citrus Medica … including some which is less familiar to us.
Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Farmer and his Old Pump As old as this pump is, it still supplies water in times of need.
Still Life Found : Old Machinery
Lunch We are back at the restaurant in time for our meal to come out of the oven. (iPhone12Pro)
Almost Sunrise I was on a hill in the Sahara sands at Erg Chebb in Morocco to watch the sun rise over the horizon. (iPhone15Pro)
A new day is full of promise.
As is the New Year.
In theory, we can start again fresh. In practice of course, the dawn is just a continuation of time.
Still, climbing up a sand dune in Erg Chebb in Morocco, not far from the Algerian border, filled me with hope.
I had walked into the dunes the evening before to enjoy the sunset (see: A Night in the Sahara Desert), and set my alarm early to repeat the climb in the murky darkness of morning before the sun was up. I was travelling with a small group, and had spent the night at the Golden Camp, near the town of Merzouga at the very north-western edge of the Sahara Desert. We were surrounded by hills of rippling sand and blanketed by stars.
Join me for a very short walk in the sands of the Sahara.
Predawn in the Dunes Another desert camp, much like ours, comes into view in the early morning light.
Waiting for Sunrise It was quiet, and I only saw one other person against the undulating vastness of the Sahara.
Predawn Dunes Colour creeps into the sky.
Dawn The morning colours over the landscape change quickly.
Orange Sky
Sunrise (iPhone15Pro)
Camels on the Horizon The camels that transport visitors in and out of the desert camps are ready for their first trip.
Three Camels
A Camel In spite of the nasty reputation that camels have …
Camel Portrait … I love their gentle-looking faces.
Bedouin Handler and his Camels A cameleer in his colourful garb readies his team. (iPhone15Pro)
Nature’s Artworks: Waves in the Sand (iPhone15Pro)
Rolling Sands As I make my way back to my tent, I take one last look. (iPhone15Pro)
The new day was well underway: time to prepare to leave the Sahara behind, and look forward to new frontiers.
As this year unfolds, I wish you and yours all the best.
Sundown on the Dunes The desert is a magic place at nightfall – and it was a real gift being able to watch sunset over the dunes of Erg Chebb at the western edge of the Sahara in Morocco.
I’m sure I’m not alone in drawing parallels between the end of the year and the end of a day.
And, seeing camel trains always makes me think of the Christmas story of the three wise men.
This year, my gift to myself was a trip to one of my long-time dream-destinations: Morocco. My three and a half weeks in this colourful North African country was everything I had hoped, and there were countless highlights (eg: Walking around Imlil). Watch this space!
But, as the current year draws to a close, I’ve been taking time to reflect, and I keep thinking about my night in the desert: at the very north-western edge of the Sahara Desert, not far from the Algerian border.
The overnight trip to the Golden Camp, near the small town of Merzouga, involved a short and thrilling ride into the sandy dunes of Erg Chebb, followed by a camel ride on the most uncomfortable seats I’ve ever experienced! My tent in the desert camp was wonderful – complete with hot water and a working wifi. But, while the camp feels secluded, the area is crowded: at night, the sight of the myriad stars was somewhat offset by the noise of the neighbouring campsite only a short distance away.
I walked into the dunes at dusk in search of a peaceful sunset, and found myself surrounded by tire tracks and the noise of evening dune buggies.
So, like this past year, the night wasn’t quiet and it wasn’t peaceful!
But, I do love the desert, and it was a wonderful and unique experience, and I feel extremely fortunate to have enjoyed it.
Join me for an evening in the sands of the Sahara.
The Sahara in our Windscreen We piled into four wheel drives in the small village of Merzouga, and raced west into the Sahara. (iPhone15Pro)
View from the Four Wheel Drive The dunes of the Sahara loop and fold on the arid landscape outside our windows. (iPhone15Pro)
Camels at the Ready The second half of our journey into the Sahara was by camel.
Bedouin The camel handlers are striking in their piled turbans and colourfully embroidered clothes.
Waving Sands It wasn’t easy taking pictures while loping camel-back – but I couldn’t resist! (iPhone15Pro)
Shadow Selfie It’s early evening, and the lowering sun stretches the shadows long across the waving sands. (iPhone15Pro)
A Table on the Hill It’s a quirky scene: delicate furniture sits atop the hard-packed dunes.
Desert Camp Being at the very edge of the vast Sahara, this is a busy region. The neighbouring camp was close by.
Folds of Sand
Nature’s Artworks : Waves and Grass
Desert Patterns Although arid, the desert is not barren. You have to wonder what made these tracks!
Footprint in the Sand The colours change with every shift in the light. I leave my own footprints next to tiny animal tracks as I climb to a vantage point.
Waiting for Sunset The neighbouring dunes are busy as the sun lowers in the sky.
Chasing Sunset Dune buggies, trucks, camels, and people are on every ridge.
People in the Sunset The sky only stays golden for a few minutes …
Sunset in the Dunes … before the sun drops behind the dunes, and people make their way back to their respective camps. For a moment, everything was quiet. (iPhone15Pro)
Camels on the Horizon
Silhouettes On my way back to the camp, I spot some of my travel companions making use of those chairs I saw earlier.
Young Berbers Two local lads were happy to stop and chat.
Portrait of a Young Berber
Warming the Drums After a wonderful Moroccan meal, we were treated to some Gnaoua music under the stars.
It was a treat!
Until next year, wishing you and yours a wonderful holiday season.
Houseboat in the Wetlands Like a dream, a houseboat – and its reflection – glide through the backwaters around Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India.
I’ve said it before: being on and around the waters of Vembanad Lake in Kerala, South India had a soporific effect on me (see: On the Kerala Backwaters). The heat – and the haze that the heat produced on the water – and soft chugging of the motors of the river traffic had me feeling like I was in a dream. Tropical plants adorned the gardens either side of the waterways, and birds were everywhere. Brightly dressed local residents went about their daily lives in small boats and on walkways at the water’s edge.
I knew this region from other people’s photographs, and was finally getting to visit for myself!
I was travelling with a small group, so all the details were looked after for me. We had spent the night in the beautiful CGH Earth Coconut Lagoon resort in Kottayam district on Vembanad Lake. This area is home to a huge variety of bird life which takes sanctuary in the protected neighbouring wetlands.
The resort offered a guided pre-dawn nature walk, so I set my alarm and got up early to join in. As we walked around the grounds and onto the neighbouring sanctuary, a huge array of birds and plants were pointed out to us. Unfortunately, my telephoto lens is by no means bird-worthy, especially in the low light of morning – but I made several attempts to capture some of the species we spotted.
Mid-morning, our group transferred from the resort to kettuvallam – traditional Kerala houseboats – that were to be our homes for the afternoon and overnight. We cruised slowly through the rivers and canals off Vembanad Lake, taking in the colourful life on the banks of the Pamba River before parking at a mooring as the sun went down.
Join me on the waterways of Kerala.
Indian Crow – Corvus Splendens So ubiquitous around India that the locals call this a house crow or common crow, these greynecked crows struck me as remarkably uncommon! The variants I was used to seeing in North America, Australia – and even Thailand – were pure glossy black.
Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans January is dry season in Kerala, but there is still a lot of water in the landscaped trenches around the resort – making a good spot for a small stork to search for food. The sun hasn’t risen high enough to penetrate the haze and murk of the morning.
Red Water Lily – Nymphaea Rubra The lilies are just opening up to the new day.
Houseboat in the Morning In the low light of morning, Kerala’s famous houseboats are already on the move.
A Stream of Asian Openbills I love the different formations that the birds make overhead in the hazy morning sky.
Asian Openbill – Anastomus Oscitans I manage to pull one in on the zoom; the open beak of this distinctive small stork is just visible.
Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii Often called a ‘paddybird‘, this small heron is found everywhere in South Asian rice fields.
Purple-Rumped Sunbird – Leptocoma Zeylonica High overhead, we spot a sunbird – probably a male – in the trees.
Powder-Puff Tree – Barringtonia Racemosa The flowers in the resort gardens are much easier to catch!
Kingfisher on a Pole The poles in the floating mass of water hyacinth provide a great perch for birds on the lookout for food.
Two Men in a Boat There is a steady stream of boat traffic on the water. I love how the background fades into the heat-haze.
Full Boat Some of the beasts seem dangerously overloaded!
Cattle Egret – Ardea Ibis I love watching these birds in flight.
Like a Minimalist Painting
Viewing Platforms There are a few hides in the wetlands for serious bird watchers.
Cannonball Tree – Couroupita Guianensis I love these unique flowers. But, I keep watch for any over-hanging fruit: they are called ‘cannonball’ for a reason!
Life on the Water’s Edge Later in the day, we boarded our small houseboats, and set off through the Alleppey Backwaters.
Houseboats on the Pamba River These popular waterways are a labyrinthine network of interconnected canals, rivers, lakes, and inlets, stretching over 900 kilometers.
Pedestrian Bridge The waterways are bustling with movement and crowded with buildings.
Couple on the Bridge
Houseboats and Transport Boats
Women Walking on the Edge Everywhere we look, there is colour and activity.
Women Working The waterways are the centre of daily life.
Doing Laundry
Colourful Tourist Boats Tourism is a major contributor to Kerala’s income.
Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus) – I Think? The sky is alive with raptors.
Houseboat at Rest As the day draws to a close, the the houseboats pull into their allocated berths for the night.
Boatman The boatmen make sure the vessels are securely tied up …
Sundown on the Houseboats … and the waterways go quiet.
We ate our wonderful South Indian meal on our houseboat as the sun went down over the Kerala Backwaters and then spent the night in air-conditioned comfort.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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