Buddhas in the Caves, Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddhas around a stupa, Dambulla Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

Buddhas in a Cave
It takes a few moments for one’s eyes to adjust and to pick out the details of the intricately painted ceilings and the multitude of Buddha images inside the ancient temple caves at Dambulla in central Sri Lanka.

Sri Lanka is said to be the oldest continually Buddhist country in the world.

When Buddhism first spread beyond India, the two countries that embraced the teachings were Gandhara (lands that are now in northern Pakistan and eastern Afghanistan) and Ceylon (called Sri Lanka since 1972). Buddhist scholars believe that the Buddha visited the island of Ceylon on three occasions, and Buddhism was officially introduced as a religion into the country in the 2nd century BC.

This long religious tradition is in evidence all across the country, and nowhere more so than at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple complex in Central Province. This network of five sanctuary caves is unique in Southeast Asia because it is not naturally occurring: whole sections – including some of the Buddha images themselves – were carved out of the rock by early monks.

A great lump of lava rock towers 160 metres over the surrounding plains, and more than 80 caves have been discovered in the area. Prehistoric Sri Lankans probably made their home here, and burial sites that are about 2700 years old have been found. Forest-dwelling Buddhist monks were taking refuge in the caves and overhangs from the 3rd century BC. and King Valagamba of Anuradhapura is believed to have had the caves converted into a temple in the first century BC, after hiding out there during 14 years of political exile.

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991 for its religious art, its more than two-millennia association with Buddhist ritual practices and pilgrimage, and its authenticity and integrity, the complex of caves has been “transformed continuously throughout the historical period into one of the largest and most outstanding Buddhist complexes in the Southern and South Eastern Asian region …”

The caves still operates as a monastery and a popular pilgrimage site, and are a fascinating place to visit.

Wild Elephants
My drive from Sri Lanka’s Eastern Province to the cave complex took me through some beautiful countryside and a number of National Parks. It was wonderful to see a herd of wild elephants roaming in the distance.

Golden Buddha and museum at the Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple, Sri Lanka

Golden Buddha Statue
Theravada Buddhist monuments in Sri Lanka are not subtle. The main entrance courtyard to this complex houses the rather garish Golden Temple Buddhist Museum, built in the 19th century. You enter through the lion’s mouth – under the giant seated golden Buddha!

Golden Stupa
A nearby bell-shaped pagoda …

Buddha in a Niche
… houses offerings to smaller, more understated Buddha images.

Stairways Up
Apparently, the winding path up to the caves is 364 steps long; I didn’t count them!

Bugs along the Way
Although the climb is quite steep, …

Berries in the Bush
… there are plenty of excuses to stop and catch ones breath, …

View over Central Province
… and the views from the top are well worthwhile.

The Corridor
Having reached the top of the stairs and deposited my shoes with an attendant, I can finally walk down to the corridors that nestle into the hillside and guide visitors through the caves. It rained several times while I was there, so the roof covering was welcome!

In the Colonnades
This is an active temple, where ‘modesty’ of dress is expected: sarongs were available for visitors who hadn’t thought to cover their shoulders and knees.

Devaraja Lena – the Cave of the Divine King
The first cave is almost completely filled by a 14-meter reclining Buddha that has been carved out of the rock behind it.

Parinirvana Posture
The Buddha is depicted in the last moments of this life, in the lying posture with a hand under the head. The statue has been repainted countless times since being carved over 2000 years ago.

Vishnu
Vishnu, Lord of the Gods, is said to have used his divine powers to create the caves.

Stupa
A large stupa sits in the corridor outide the second and largest cave.

Rainy Courtyard
In the courtyard below, the rain falls on the sacred bodhi tree, the “tree of awakening”, which represents the place where Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment.

Cave of the Great Kings
The complex of five caves houses a total of 153 Buddha statues in a variety of postures.

Seated Buddhas
The second and largest cave, the Cave of the Great Kings, is home to many of the Buddhas, and to much of the over 1800 square meters of murals on the walls and ceilings.

Buddha on a Stupa
It is impossible to take everything in! There are 40 seated Buddhas in this cave, …

Standing Buddha
… and 16 standing statues. This gilded one in an archway was particularly impressive.

Row of Buddhas
‘Modern’ lighting was installed as part of the UNESCO requirements, but the light inside the caves is dreadful: badly aligned bulbs cast strange colours and harsh shadows.

Standing Buddhas
But, the dark cave interiors are at least in part responsible for maintaining the vibrant colours of the statues and murals.

Buddhas in the Cave of the Great Kings
While the temple has been repaired and repainted many times over the millennia, the art is also protected by being under cover and away from bleaching sunlight.

Sirasapata – Flame of Wisdom
Some of the colours are a bit mind-blowing! This style of sirasapata on the top of the head of the Buddha is a feature in Sri Lanka.

The Shadow of the Buddha

Buddha and Murals
The third cave, the Maha Alut Vihara (the Great New Monastery) is more modern and was painted during the reign of King Kirti Sri Rajasinha (1747–1782).

Makara Torana – Dragon Arch
A Dragon Arch marks the gateway to heaven.

Man on a Balcony
Back outside, it is still raining, but it is time to retrieve my shoes and descend the mountain.

Walking down the hill was much easier than walking up!

But, it is actually not the same pathway, and I ended up in a different place from my car and driver. I had quite some fun trying to figure out what had happened, and trying to find a way back to the car park – which as it turned out was a fair distance away. In the end, I hired a tuk-tuk to drive me to my car.

Text: Happy Rambling