The stairs in the main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Those Stairs!
Immediately recognisable, the central staircase in the Main Hall of Dublin’s infamous Kilmainham Gaol has appeared in a number of films, tv shows, and even a U2 music video since the massive prison was decommissioned by the Irish Free State government in 1924.

To me there was something surreal and troubling about watching Hugh Grant singing on the stairs of Kilmainham Gaol in pink-striped bell-bottoms.

It is a disturbing place: dark, cold, and in its day, severely overcrowded. Men, women and children were crammed in together, up to five in a small cell with only a single candle for light and heat. Everyday criminals were incarcerated alongside those who fought for Irish independence – starting with the Irish Rebellion of 1798.

Kilmainham was called the ‘New Gaol’ when it was built in 1796 to replace an even older one. A preserved prison register lists crimes ranging from violent assault to stealing loaves of bread or apples from an orchard. The youngest registered offender was a seven-year-old child; many of the adults were transported to Australia and regular public hangings took place in front of the prison.

In the late 1700s, John Howard (1726 – 1790), whose name is still associated with prison reform and public health improvements, became High Sheriff of Bedfordshire. He was shocked by the squalid conditions and resultant outbreaks of ‘prison fever’ in the jails within his jurisdiction. He educated the public about the barbaric conditions, and, with the aid of his own personal fortune, helped implement changes.

In spite of his efforts, prisoners in Kilmainham continued to be held in terrible conditions. They spent much of their time in the freezing cold, as the chill air was believed to purify a corrupt spirit. The lime walls retained moisture but not heat, and the windy windows in the cells were too high to see through.

During the Great Famine (1845-1852), even a newly-opened women’s section became immediately overwhelmed. Later, the notorious jail became synonymous with the Irish War of Independence (1919–21), with many political prisoners confined in the cells, and fourteen leaders of the Easter Rebellion (1916) executed by firing squad.

Access to the prison is by guided tour only; although my visit was quite some time ago, on a suitably dark and rainy Dublin day, I still remember how emotional our guide was as he talked about The Troubles – and how distressed I felt looking at the cells in which people were kept.

Of course, Paddington 2 is not the only movie filmed on location in what is now a now a museum run by the Office of Public Works – an agency of the Government of Ireland – and its Main Hall is immediately recognisable.

Come for a tour:

Jim Larkin Statue from a bus, O

Jim Larkin
To maximise our time in Dublin, my husband and I had bought two-day Hop on/off bus passes. This gave us a bird’s eye view of some of the city landmarks. This bronze statue by Irish sculptor Oisin Kelly (1915 – 1981) depicts the founder of the Workers’ Union of Ireland, James Larkin (1874 – 1947), addressing the crowd.

River Liffey through bus windows, Dublin

Almost Abstract – River Liffey Through Another Bus

Molly Malone statue from a bus, Dublin

Molly Malone
In Dublin’s Fair City
Where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheel’d her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying cockles and mussels alive, alive o!

We grew up singing this song about the fictional fishmonger who died of fever around 1699. The first published version of the folk song dates to 1884; the statue by Irish sculptor Jeanne Rynhart (1946 –2020), was created in 1988. Affectionately known as ‘The Tart with the Cart’, the bronze is a popular tourist stop.

People in viking horns on an open tourist bus, Dublin

The Bus Next Door

Arched entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, Dublin

Guinness
We drive past the entrance to the Guinness Brewery Yard, where we had stopped for a tour the day before (see: Raise a Glass).

Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin

Main Entrance to Kilmainham Gaol
A short distance up the road, we come to the prison entrance. Above the doorway, the tangle of serpents, dragons, or demons, is said to represent the five most heinous crimes of rape, murder, theft, piracy, and treason. 

Looking down through the museum displays in Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Museum Displays
In 1958, the Kilmainham Gaol Restoration Society formed to preserve the building and develop a museum and art space.

Giant key, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Outer Door Key: 1807

Locks and keys, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Locks and Keys

Sculpture of a man breaking rocks, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

‘Hard Labour’
An art gallery on the top floor of the museum exhibits paintings, sculptures, and jewellery created by prisoners from around the country.

Portrait of an Irish tour guide, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Dr Shane Kenna
Employed by Ireland’s Office of Public Works, our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable.

Drainpipe with spikes at the top, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Guarded Drainpipe
Every aspect of the old jail building is inhospitable.

Display page from a Kilmainham Gaol register, Dublin.

Stealing Bread
“Examples of food-related crime …” All the display signage is in English and Irish Gaelic.

Chapel, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Catholic Chapel
In this chapel, Irish revolutionary leader Joseph Mary Plunkett married his fiancee Grace Gifford just hours before he was executed for his role in the 1916 Easter Rising. They were not permitted to speak during the ceremony, and Grace was allowed to spend only ten minutes in her husband’s prison cell under heavy supervision after the wedding.

Dark arched corridor, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Arched Corridor
The hallways in the older sections of the prison are dark – and cold.

Three windows in the cell of Patrick Pearse, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Light the Darkness
These are the window inside the cell of Patrick Pearse – Irish teacher, barrister, poet, writer, nationalist, republican political activist, and revolutionary. A member of the Irish Republican Brotherhood and one of the leaders of the Easter Rising in 1916, Pearse and fifteen other leaders, including his brother, were ultimately court-martialed and executed by firing squad.

Peeling paint, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Stripes of Paint – Texture in the Building

Dark arched corridor, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Another West Wing Corridor
Even as a visitor, this place feels grim! I can’t imagine what it would have been like as an inmate.

The main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Main Hall
John McCurdy, freemason and official college architect of Trinity College Dublin, won an open competition to design a new section of jail in the late 1850s. In keeping with ‘modern’ Victorian principles, light was meant to inspire the inmates to look heavenward. The open design meant that all ninety-six cells could be seen from a central viewing area.

The stairs in the main hall of Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Through the Steps
Even that magnificent staircase allows views of the room.

James Connolly

Bricks around the Stonebreakers Yard 
The cross marking the execution site of James Connolly for his part in the 1916 Easter Rising is hiding in the afternoon shadows. 

Entry courtyard, Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Ireland.

Entry – Exit
It is a relief to re-emerge into the open air from the prison – through the same door we entered by.

A circle of blindfolded sculptured forms, Dublin Ireland.

“Proclamation” by Irish sculptor Rowan Gillespie (1953 – )
Across the road from the prison, we find the permanent outdoor sculpture honoring the leaders of the Easter Rising. The faceless and blindfolded figures each display a bullet pattern corresponding to where they were hit by the firing squad.

text: slainte - good healthGrim representations of troubled times …

We went for a walk to shake off some of the gloom – and found a nice pub for dinner and live music.

That’s Ireland!

Pictures: 08July2012

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

White Water at the River Bend
Rearguard Falls are magnificent! This small but beautiful waterfall is one of just two along British Columbia’s longest river. The source of the 1,375 kilometre (854 mi) long Fraser River is just 115 km (71 mi) upstream from here.

I do love a road trip! 

Of course, it can be easier with two people: with the non-driver navigating, map-reading, and watching for interesting stops. I find that I need to do much more preparatory planning ahead of time when I’m travelling solo.

On my last Canadian road trip, I made a point of breaking my drives up with walks. Thanks to the greater availability of free wifi, I made extensive use of the AllTrails App, identifying several potential short walks or a single longer one daily, and setting the starting points as my Google Maps destination before leaving my overnight accommodation.

Of course, if I had access to local advice, I’d make use of that as well.

After spending a couple of nights in Jasper, Alberta (see: A Day in the Maligne Valley), I was heading west. The first leg – to Prince George, British Columbia – was four hours of driving time, allowing me plenty of late-spring daylight for exploration along the way.

An hour into my morning drive, the information centre at Mount Robson came into sight. I was ready for a coffee, and pulled into the parking lot – just ahead of three large tour buses. Unfortunately, the centre had no power: therefore, no lights, no wifi, and no coffee! So, being at the front of the queue didn’t help me much. But at least the restrooms were still operational.

Mount Robson is a impressive peak: the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, with a beautiful, snow-covered south face standing out behind the information centre. I know this from photos, and from previous trips along this road; on this occasion, I could barely see it! The clouds dropped down to obscure the summit, and intermittent rains made the nearby walks very wet and chancy. The Parks staff recommended Rearguard Falls as a nearby walking alternative – just 12 minutes away, but outside the enveloping rains.

It was great advice! The trail barely counts as a walk – only 0.4 km (0.46 mi) return, but the small falls are quite magnificent. One of only two waterfalls on BC’s long and winding Fraser River, they mark the furthest that chinook salmon can swim upstream to spawn in late summer. The viewing platforms attract a lot of visitors from mid August to mid September to watch the tired fish attempt to leap up the rushing water.

I was there in late spring – so no salmon. But, one of the things that amazed me is how different the forest looked and felt around me with every passing kilometre as I descended out of the Rockies.

Do join me for a very short stroll:

Car driving west towards Mount Robson, BC Canada

West on Highway 16
I point the car west out of Jasper, and follow the Yellowhead Pass through the Rocky Mountains. (iPhone12Pro)

Mount Robson Visitor Centre, BC Canada

Mount Robson Visitor Centre
The inside the visitor centre was dark and quiet: they were entering their second day with no power! The top of Mount Robson was shrouded in cloud – which released light rains while I was in the centre.

Narrow, groomed path into the woods, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Into the Woods
Not 15 minutes down the road, I stopped in the tiny Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, and set off on the short (0.3 km – 0.2 mi) walk to the eponymous falls.

Light through maple leaves, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Sun through the Maples
Patches of light filter through the tall trees all around me.

Initials carved into a tree trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Leaving a Mark

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Rearguard Falls
You hear the falls before you see them! Viewing platforms allow you to look over the roaring waters. (iPhone12Pro)

Closeup of Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

The Water’s Edge
The speed and force of the water is incredible! Every year in late summer, intrepid chinook salmon swim up the Fraser River to spawn; …

Looking over Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

White Water
… only the largest and strongest of the salmon make it this far – a trip of about 1,260 kilometres (783 mi) from the Pacific Ocean. These falls mark the final barrier for all but the very hardiest.

Closeup of Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Pleats in the Water

Budding spruce with Rearguard Falls behind it, BC Canada

Spruce Against the River
My visit was in spring, so there were no salmon, but there was plenty of new growth in the surrounding trees, …

Pink wild rose blossom, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Wild Rose – Rosa Acicularis
… and many wildflowers along the path were in bloom. (iPhone12Pro)

Bunchberry dogwood, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
These pretty little shade-loving ground covers always make me smile.

Red-osier dogwood flower, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Red-Osier Dogwood – Cornus Sericea
A related – but very different looking – plant, commonly known as red twig dogwood, is a medium-to-tall upright-spreading shrub.

Round dandelion seed head, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Dandelion in Seed

Patterned leaves, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Nature’s Artworks – Insect Trails

Looking up a tall cedar trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Tall and Twisted
The twisted branches of the tall stands of western red cedar (thuja plicata) are draped with old man’s beard (usnea barbata).

Bark of a cedar trunk, Rearguard Falls, BC Canada

Natures Artworks – Stripes and Textures
The gold dusting on the textured bark is comprised of gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix), which – like the canary in the mine shaft – are an indicator of excellent air quality.

Light through maple leaves, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, BC Canada

Maples Overhead
Before I know it, I’m back at the carpark.

Text: Take only Pictures

I could have lingered longer, but I had other walks earmarked on my AllTrails – and I still need that coffee!

Until next time,

Happy Walking!

Photos: 31May2023 

Shiva meditating in the Ganges, Rishikesh India

Shiva on the River
This statue of Shiva meditating in the Ganges, in front of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, is emblematic of Rishikesh. Some stories mistakenly say that the statue was ‘swept away’ in the the truly devastating floods of June 2023. Although the torrential rains caused enormous damage and loss of life all across this region, Shiva did not budge. He sat unperturbed as the force of the rising waters swirled around him. At one stage at least, he was completely submerged – but unharmed.

It was my last day in Rishikesh: that magical city of yogis and mystics on the Ganges at the foothills of the Himalaya.

I’d been there for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’ – a retreat that turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (more on that some other time), and I was determined to get into the heart of the city I had visited only briefly before.

I had met a couple of young lads – one of whom owned and operated a tuk-tuk – and organised for them to transport me to the Ganges for the evening Aarti. Their English was patchy, but their enthusiasm was unmistakable, and I assumed (probably wrongly!) that they would have a level of local knowledge.

Having witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Mother Ganges, in Varanasi and Haridwar (eg: Performing the Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri), I thought the evening ritual at Rishikesh – of the most ancient pilgrim places in India, and an abode of the [Hindu] Gods, would be worth observing.

While it was lovely to participate, I could see almost nothing, and came away with very few photos of the Aarti itself.

Still, it was a delightful afternoon, wandering Rishikesh streets and exploring the Hindu sculptures in the gardens of the Parmarth Niketan, the city’s biggest ashram. Do join me!

Gold bangles and trinkets, Rishikesh, India

Selling Gold
The streets running parallel with the Ganges are home to a lot of foot-traffic, and the shops are kept busy.

The colourful curves of Ram Jhula through a metal fence, Rishikesh, India

Ram Jhula
Built in 1986, this iron suspension bridge spans 230 metres (750 feet) across the Ganges, and is a Rishikesh landmark.

Pedestrians on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

People on the Bridge
The Ram Jhula is always busy with pedestrians.

Candy-coloured temples on the right bank of the Ganges, Rishikesh, India

Candy-Coloured Temples
There are great views of the ashrams on both sides of the river here …

Portrait: Indian woman on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Woman on the Bridge
… and many pilgrims are more than happy to be photographed.

Macaque on the Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Macaque on the Bridge
Monkeys roam freely – but don’t seem to be a pest.

Temple near Ram Jhula, Rishikesh, India

Temple on the other Side
People come from all over India – indeed, from all over the world – to visit Rishikesh. The streets are full of pilgrims and tourists, and lined with ashrams and temples.

Portrait: Profile of a man in heavy makeup, Rishikesh, India

The Chotiwala
I was determined to find this restaurant again! Choti is Hindi for a tuft of hair kept at the back of the head and never cut for religious reasons, so a Chotiwala is a ‘Braided Man’. A choti is also a small dosa-like pancake filled with paneer, potato, or onion. In heavy makeup, the Chotiwala sits in front of the restaurant of the same name, greeting people and ringing the bell over his head.

Religious icons in a shop window, Rishikesh, India

Trinket Sales
Religious icons are available everywhere.

Three Indian men in a juice shop, Rishikesh, India

The Juice House
It is hot – very hot. So, my helpers and I stop for a freshly-squeezed juice.

Portrait: Indian man in a juice shop, Rishikesh, India

The Juice Wala

A sculpture of Krishna and Aruna in their chariot over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Krishna Chariot
A wonderful sculpture over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ganga Ghat is based on a story from a Hindu holy book, the Bhagavad Gita, and shows the God Krishna and the demigod Aruna in their chariot. The entry to the ghat   is barred until just before sundown, so we continued to wander.

Young women on a street stall, Rishikesh, India

Market Girls
Back in the secular streets, everyone has something to sell – and everyone has a phone.

Happy people bathing on the ghats in the Ganges, Rishikesh, India

Bathing in the Ganges
Bathing in the Mother River is said to purify you and wash away your sins. Worth a try, right! I only went in up to my knees.

Hindu icons in a window, Parmarth Niketan Ashram, Rishikesh, India

Icons in a Window
Most of the buildings along the river are temples and ashrams, so religious images are everywhere.

Shiva statue meditating in the Ganges, Rishikesh India

The Lord Shiva
Shiva meditating in the rushing waters of the Ganges lends a calm to an otherwise bustling location.

Shiva statue meditating in a garden, Rishikesh India

Shiva in the Garden
We wander through the gardens behind the Ashram, and find another Shiva – …

Detail: the hand of a Shiva sculpture, Rishikesh India

Gyan Mudra
… – this one with slightly different mudras, or hand positions.

Detail: the hand of a Shiva sculpture, Rishikesh India

Mudra in the Garden
Mudras are symbolic gestures or poses in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. They are meant to help focus the mind and direct the flow of prana – life force or energy.

Colourful Shiva and Parvati statues meditating in a garden, Rishikesh India

Shiva and Parvati
We found another Shiva nearby – this one with his consort, Parvati.

Vishnu and his Bull
There are a number of statues dotted around the extensive gardens – many of which my young ‘guides’ were no help in identifying!

Man selling paan, Rishikesh India

Betel Seller
Back in the bustling streets, venders are everywhere.

Betel chew ingredients for sale, Rishikesh India

Areca Nut
Chewing paan – betel nut from the areca palm, mixed with slaked lime and betel leaves, and sometimes tobacco or flavours, is ubiquitous across southern Asia and Oceania.

Seated man with a mobile phone, Rishikesh India

Golden-Hour Check-In

Portrait: Man in heavy pink makeup, Rishikesh, India

The Other Chotiwala
There are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; on my last visit to the city they were side by side (see: Iconic Rishikesh)! The original restaurant owner died and left the business to his two sons who could not get along. They split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. One has since relocated – so at least they are no longer next door to each other.

Statue of Hanuman with Rama and Sita, Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh, India

Statue of Hanuman
We are finally allowed onto the ghat. Hanuman, the monkey god of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion, and self-discipline, shows how he holds Rama and Sita in his heart.

Hindu priest, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Hindu Priest
As people crowd onto the steps leading to the Ganges, …

Child in white, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Young Child
… I content myself with people watching.

Hindu priest, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

On the Ghats
There is a lot of milling around …

Crowd on Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Crowd on the Ghat
… and the steps are packed with people. I am one of very few non-Indians in attendance.

Sunset through a metal fence, Rishikesh, India

Sunset
Finally! As the sun goes down, the ritual songs and prayers in praise of Ganga Ma, the Mother River, begin.

Entry to Parmarth Niketan Ghat against a dark sky, Rishikesh, India

Chariot Overhead
The skies darken and the songs continue.

Hands in prayer in the dark, Parmarth Niketan Ghat, Rishikesh, India

Prayers in the Dark
I can see almost nothing – but eventually the flames make their way to me and I am blessed.

Shiva statue meditating in the Ganges after dark, Rishikesh India

Shiva after Dark
With one last look at Shiva, I bid the waterfront good night.

Some reports say that Triveni Ghat, a few kilometers further south, is the most famous ghat in Rishikesh and the place for the evening Aarti.

Ah well!

Maybe next time …

Photos: 08September2023

Statue of Antoine de Saint Exupéry and the Little Prince in the Jardin Royal, Toulouse.

Antoine de Saint Exupéry and the Little Prince
I can’t count how many times I’ve read Le Petit Prince by pilot and author Antoine de Saint Exupéry – in English and in the original French. So, I was thrilled to discover the two honoured in a bronze sculpture by French artist Madeleine Tezenas du Montcel (1936 – ) in the Jardin Royal in Toulouse, France.

My travel choices are often a bit haphazard: as much reliant on timing and opportunity as they are on interest and desire.

I’ve found it doesn’t really matter: wherever I go, there are interesting things to see and learn, and surprising connections to my own life-so-far.

Take Toulouse, in Occitania, in the south of France. Before arriving there, I had no idea it was the fourth-largest city in France, and – more importantly for my husband – the centre of the European aerospace industry and the headquarters of Airbus. I knew from reading Night Flight (Vol de Nuit), that author Antoine de Saint Exupéry was a pioneer of early international postal flights, but I had long since forgotten that he flew between Toulouse and Dakar, in North Africa.

We were not there for those reasons. We were only there because work had brought us to France, and we decided to follow that up with two weeks walking La Randonnée Pyrénéenne – the Cathar Trail through the Pyrenees, finishing up in Foix (see: Il était un Fois à Foix).

Toulouse seemed like an obvious next stop on our way home. I had chosen a modest hotel near the railway station, and we set out to explore with a city-map from the front desk; this was long before I had a smart phone, and before sites like Tripadvisor had been invented!

We found plenty to keep us interested – do join us:

Fountain in the centre of Place Roland, Toulouse France

Place Roland
Small parks and public art are everywhere. A short walk from our hotel, we came across this fountain in the middle of a small triangle of green.

Marble statue of Roland, Place Roland, Toulouse France

“Chanson de Roland”
The marble work by French sculptor Jules Jacques Labatut (1851 – 1925) refers to a long song, telling the story of Roland, a Frankish military leader, and his friend Olivier, in the battles against invading armies: Saracens or Basque – depending on the version you read. I have no idea what the added blindfold signifies.

Detail: Marble statue of Roland, Place Roland, Toulouse France

Roland à Roncevaux
The sculpture has referenced the Battle of Roncevaux Pass in 778 CE; a relatively minor battle under Charlemagne, which has been glorified in the epic 11th-century poem/song (see: AnthroWiki).

Old apartment front on a leafy street, Toulouse France

House Fronts
Even the buildings in the city centre are works-of art: beautiful façades with ornate iron-works lining broad boulevards full of leafy trees.

Lion head on a carved balcony, Toulouse France

Lion on the Balcony

Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne, Toulouse France

Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne
Sometimes called “Toulouse’s Arc de Triomphe”, this tribute to the combatants of Haute-Garonne who fought during WWI, was built between 1920 and 1931 under architect Leon Jaussely (see: MIT Libraries).

Bas-relief of soldiers

1918 – Bas-Relief by Camille Raynaud
Three sculptors: Camille Raynaud, Andre Abbal, and Henry Raphael Moncassin, created the bas-reliefs that pay tribute to the soldiers lost in the battles to defend and reclaim the area.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne, Toulouse France

La Victoire – The Victory by Camille Raynaud

Cast iron sculpture of a snarling dog, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

La Chienne – The Female Dog
A short walk away, in the shady circular Grand Rond park, a cast iron sculpture of a female dog with pups, growls across a path …

Cast iron sculpture of a snarling wolf, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

La Louve – The Female Wolf
…. at a snarling wolf with her cub. French artist, Pierre Louis Rouillard (1820 – 1881), known for his sculptures of animals, installed these in 1865.

Spring flowers, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

Spring Flowers
The park is dotted with bright and colourful garden beds.

Spring flowers, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

A Bee in the Poppies

White poppy, Grand Rond, Toulouse France

White Poppy
Poppies are my favourite! The fragrance on the warm spring air is glorious.

Fountain, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Fountain – Jardin des Plantes
Across the road, the seven-hectare Jardin des Plantes is home to a stream with ducks, swans, and geese. A lovely fountain sits amid more flowers. (I’ve shared a picture of this fountain before in Les Couleurs de Printemps.)

Spring flowers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Flowerbed – Jardin des Plantes
The ancient trees and colourful spring blooms make the park a delightful place to stroll.

Spring flowers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Mixed Flowers
Created in 1794, the garden was originally planted with medicinal varieties so that medical students could make their own remedies.

Orange poppy, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Another Bee in another Poppy.
The garden still displays around one hundred different botanical species – but I keep coming back to my favourite.

Golden Poppies, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Golden Poppies

Les amoureux éternels statue of lovers, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Le Retour – Les Amoureux Éternels – The Return – Lovers Eternal
In every corner of the Jardin des Plantes, we find a gem! This marble statue is by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946).

Statue of a woman with small children, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Dedicated to French Composer, Déodat de Séverac, by Auguste Guénot (1882-1966)
Across another road, we find ourselves in the Jardin Royal (Royal Garden), surrounded by more art and flowers.

Small lake and stone features, Jardin Royal , Toulouse France.

Duck House on the Pond – Jardin Royal

Man reading on the grass, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

In the Park
These connecting parks make a wonderful outdoor space in a city where apartments are likely to be quiet small.

Chestnut flowers, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

“The Spreading Chestnut Tree”
The chestnut flowers made me remember the childhood song I used to play on my xylophone!

Memorial plaque to Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

“Antoine de Saint Exupéry – Writer Pilot”
Exupéry, French writer, poet, journalist, and aviator, is not buried here: in 1944, while flying for the Free French Air Force in North Africa during World War II, he took off from Corsica in a Lockheed P-38 Lightning and never returned. Wreckage of his plane was recovered in 2000, but the cause of the crash remains unknown.

Exupéry statue in a globe, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Terre des Hommes and Le Petit Prince
Exupéry was always a part of my household: several books in various translations were on the shelves. And then, Canada’s 1968 Expo in Montreal was named Terre des Hommes (Land of Men), after his award-winning book, known in English as Wind, Sand and Stars.

Bridge over the pond, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Bridge over the Pond
It’s time to backtrack through the Jardin Royal and across to the Jardin des Plantes.

Guitarist in Rasta colours, Jardin Royal, Toulouse, France.

Musician
Smiling music follows us as we go.

Marble bas relief: Le Soir de la Vie, Jardin des Plantes, Toulouse France

Le Soir de la Vie – The Evening of Life
We came across another marble sculpture by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946): this time a bas relief which was carved in 1907 and installed as a feature on a fountain here in 1910.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

Monument aux Combattants de 1870 – Monument to the Fighters of 1870
Toulouse has been the sight of many territorial wars; this monument honours those who fell during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71.

Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

“Aux Enfants De Toulouse … To the Children of Toulouse …”
The monument, sculpted by French artist Théophile Barrau (1848–1913), is dedicated to all the children of La Haute-Garonne who died for their country.

Detail: Monument aux Combattants de 1870, Toulouse, France

Monument de 1908 de la Haute-Garonne
The monument is topped by a bronze representation of the French Republic on her pedestal.

Statue of Joan of Arc, Toulouse, France

Statue of Joan of Arc
No French city is complete without a monument to the national heroine and local Catholic saint; this bronze equestrian statue is by French sculptor and painter Jean Antonin Mercié (1845 –1916).

Something for everyone!

The Little Prince - no text NMI

You – you alone will have the stars as no one else has them… In one of the stars I shall be living. In one of them I shall be laughing. And so it will be as if all the stars were laughing, when you look at the sky at night… You – only you – will have stars that can laugh.

– Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Le Petit Prince

Pictures: 24April2011

The Commemorative Area Forecourt, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Inside the Australian War Museum
The Australian War Museum in Canberra is a solemn place – a place in which to reflect on the costs of war. Standing in the Commemorative Area Forecourt, we look across the pond at the eternal flame, with the Hall of Memory in the background.

Somewhere in my neighbourhood, there is a bagpiper.

I hear him more often than see him: at sporadic intervals throughout the year, kitted out in full tartan he plays through a selection of tunes. When I hear him, I know it is the lead-up to one of Australia’s days of remembrance.

He’s been out again over the last month, and sure enough, today is ANZAC day.

ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, and the date – April 25th every year – was chosen to mark when the two countries’ forces joined to form part of the allied expedition attempting to capture the Gallipoli peninsula. Today, it is observed annually to remember all Australians who served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations.

It’s a solemn occasion, and seemed like a good time to revisit photos from the Australian War Memorial (AWM) and ANZAC Parade, both in Canberra.

Canberra, Australia’s capital, is a planned city: ANZAC Parade is a broad boulevard that runs along the Land Axis, a key feature of the designer Walter Burley Griffin’s Griffin’s original 1912 plan. It affords long views between the memorial and the elegant Parliament House. As a commemorative walk with sculptural tributes to the various forces interspersed along both sides, ‘The Parade’ was finished in 1965.

The concept for the AWM was born in 1925 and the building first opened in 1941.

Come for a walk:

The Bushmaster, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

The Bushmaster Protected Mobility Vehicle
I visited the Australian War Museum with my son, who – because of his military service has an intimate knowledge of armoured vehicles – was happy to introduce me to ‘his’ Bushmaster

Tanks, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

Tanks
… and the panzers on display in the courtyard.

"Lest We Forget" monument, the Australian War Museum, Canberra.

‘Lest We Forget’

Commemorative Area Forecourt, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Commemorative Area Forecourt
Once past the first entry, we are in the forecourt, where the Roll of Honour sits behind arched cloisters.

Detail: Winged Victory sculpture, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Winged Victory
The halls in the museum are dark. Gilbert Doble’s (1880-1945) copper alloy sculpture of Nike, the winged goddess of victory, was rescued from the Marrickville Soldiers’ Memorial, where it was at risk of disintegrating.

Sculpture: Greece by Lyndon Dadswell, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Greece
In an exhibition called Shared Experience, we find the Lyndon Dadswell (1908–1986) bronze representing the 16th Australian Infantry Brigade in their march back over Mount Olympus during WWII.

Detail: Tenacity 2020, red poppies on cream, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

‘Tenacity 2020’
Poppies are an enduring symbol of the muddy battlefields of WWI. Contemporary Australian artist Katrina Black draws a metaphor between their tenacious but transient beauty, the struggles of war, and the power of a simple symbol to unite allies.

Looking at Parliament Hill from the Australian War Museum in Canberra

The Avenue
Back outside, we have a clear view to Parliament Hill.

The Australian War Museum in Canberra

The Museum
When it was agreed to build the museum in 1923, a design competition was held. With no clear winner, architects Emil Sodersten and John Crust were asked to collaborate and create a design incorporating different proposals.

The Australian War Museum in Canberra

Dome
The building includes Art Deco elements, with Byzantine and Egyptian components.

Tree, the Australian War Museum in Canberra

Shade Tree
The surrounds are green, shady, …

Sculptured bust: Australian Soldier by Wallace Anderson, The Australian War Museum in Canberra

Australian Soldier by Wallace Anderson
… and punctuated with sculptures paying homage to the armed forces.

View from ANZAC Parade to the Australian War Museum in Canberra

ANZAC Parade
From the bottom of The Parade, you have a clear view to the Australian War Museum, with Mount Ainslie behind it. Construction of new spaces are ongoing.

Sunflare on the New Zealand Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

‘Each of Us at a Handle of the Basket’
I started my walk along The Parade at the bottom, and proceeded backwards from there. The New Zealand Memorial was a gift to Australia in 2001: representations of flax-basket handles, symbolic of the two nations working together, are on both sides of the of the road.

Crests of Australian Peacekeeping forces, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Crests of the Peacekeepers
The Australian Peacekeeping Memorial acknowledges military, police, and civilian peacekeepers active in international missions since 1947.

Flags over the Australian Peacekeeping Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Peacekeeping Memorial
On an almost windless day, the flags of the agencies flap lightly overhead.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial
Through the tall southern blue gums (Eucalyptus globulus), the sandy colours of the memorial marking the historic WWII siege of Tobruk in Libya command attention.

The Rats of Tobruk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

An Eternal Flame
German propaganda radio likened the allied troops in Libya to rats – and the Australians in the garrison took the jibe and wore it with pride. The Rats of Tobruk Memorial is modelled on the one built by Royal Australian Engineers in Tobruk during the siege.

Australian Vietnam Forces National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Vietnam Forces National Memorial
Across the wide boulevard, we can see the monument dedicated to those Australians who served in Vietnam between 1962 and 1973.

Australian Service Nurses National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Service Nurses National Memorial
On my side of the road, elegantly curved and flowing glass commemorates the nurses – like my daughter – who have served on battlefields since the Boer War.

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian Army National Memorial
Across the avenue, a couple of ‘diggers’ are on patrol.

Royal Australian Navy Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Royal Australian Navy Memorial
The blocky ‘Sailors and Ships’ monument is a distinct contrast to some of the other sculptured forms.

Bronze likeness of Ataturk, the Kemal Ataturk Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Atatürk
The bronze likeness of Kemal Ataturk, the commander of the Turkish forces at Gallipoli, and the founding father and first president of modern Türkiye, was a gift from the Turkish Government to acknowledge the 70th anniversary of the landing at Gallipoli (see: The Gallipoli Peninsula).

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

‘Every Mother’s Son’
The first monument on the self-guided walk (or the middle one, in my case) is the Australian Hellenic Memorial to a WWII unit. At the next cluster, the ‘diggers’, continue their patrol in their jungle greens.

Australian Army National Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Poppies
Flowers have been attached to the diggers’ uniforms – making a small splash of colour.

Australian National Korean War Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Australian National Korean War Memorial
The field of poles surrounding the three participant forces – sailors, soldiers, and airmen – represents those who died during the Korean War.

Sunflare on the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Desert Mounted Corps Memorial
Commonly known as the Light Horse Memorial, this sculpture is a copy of one which originally formed part of a tribute erected at Port Said in 1932. It commemorates the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who were killed in Egypt, Palestine, and Syria during World War One.

Detail: the head of a horseman, the Australian Boer War ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

The Australian Boer War Memorial
Australian Colonial forces joined the British against the the Dutch-Afrikaner settlers in South Africa between 1899 and 1902.

Sun through oak leaves, ANZAC Parade, Canberra Australia.

Sun in the Oak Leaves

Text: Lest we ForgetThe oaks endure – and the battles continue around the globe.

Sobering, really.

Pictures: 30January2021 and 12April2024